Es300 Manual Transmission Clutch Pedal Problem

[Capk]

Clutch pedal is increasingly reluctuant to return to position on my 5-speed manual trans. 1992 ES300. This is especially true if I hold the pedal down like at a red light. When the clutch pedal does remain down at the floorboard, I can actually "flip" the pedal back to position with my toe and clutch (so far) works so as to allow shifting of the gears. I've got about 105k on the car. Assuming these are the signs of clutch cylinder repair, should I have it AND the slave piston cylinder repaired/replaced at the same time? Thanks in advance!

[monarch]

Maybe the clutch master cylinder reservoir is low on fluid. If low, inspect the slave cylinder for signs of a possible leak. A new Toyota slave cylinder costs only around $50 from 1sttoyotaparts.com. If you order one, tell them you have a 199x Camry V6 (don't tell them the part is really for a ES300 V6)

[tckcumming]

Clutch pedal is increasingly reluctuant to return to position on my 5-speed manual trans. 1992 ES300. This is especially true if I hold the pedal down like at a red light. When the clutch pedal does remain down at the floorboard, I can actually "flip" the pedal back to position with my toe and clutch (so far) works so as to allow shifting of the gears. I've got about 105k on the car. Assuming these are the signs of clutch cylinder repair, should I have it AND the slave piston cylinder repaired/replaced at the same time? Thanks in advance!

Sounds like a hydraulic problem.

Check the rubber flex hose that connects to your slave cylinder. The rubber gets "mushy" over time, it can collapse internally and block the flow of hydraulic fluid back to the master cylinder when you let up on the clutch pedal. If the hose has deteriorated, the fluid flows OK to the slave when you push down on the pedal, can't flow back freely when you let it up - it feels like the pedal is "sticking", as you describe. The hose might look fine on the outside... the "collapsing" problem is inside of the hose.

Could also be your master cylinder leaking internally. Fluid can leak past the seals inside the mc, leading to problems when you have the pedal depressed for any length of time (like waiting for a red light).

Slave cylinder can develop leaks, too - but fluid usually leaks out, leaving spots on your driveway.

Worst case scenario - a problem with the throwout bearing or pressure plate. It's "worst case" because the clutch has to come out of the car to fix it, a big job. This is unlikely. You don't have very many miles on your car, clutch components can last MUCH longer than 105 K as long as they're not abused.

Here's what I'd do:

** Always do the cheapest/easiest things first, then move on to the more involved/expensive! Before replacing anything, be sure the fluid level is topped up. Make sure there's nothing interfering with the movement of the pedal itself. Bleed the system to be sure there's no air in the line.

** Replace the clutch hose first. It's the easiest and cheapest. Bleed the air out of the system and go for a drive. If you still have a problem, then...

** Get your master cylinder and slave cylinder rebuilt. New fluid, bleed... check it out. Should be fixed. If not, it's probably an internal clutch problem. Hope your on good terms with your favorite mechanic!...

Good luck!

tck...

[Capk]

Clutch pedal is increasingly reluctuant to return to position on my 5-speed manual trans. 1992 ES300. This is especially true if I hold the pedal down like at a red light. When the clutch pedal does remain down at the floorboard, I can actually "flip" the pedal back to position with my toe and clutch (so far) works so as to allow shifting of the gears. I've got about 105k on the car. Assuming these are the signs of clutch cylinder repair, should I have it AND the slave piston cylinder repaired/replaced at the same time? Thanks in advance!

Sounds like a hydraulic problem.

Check the rubber flex hose that connects to your slave cylinder. The rubber gets "mushy" over time, it can collapse internally and block the flow of hydraulic fluid back to the master cylinder when you let up on the clutch pedal. If the hose has deteriorated, the fluid flows OK to the slave when you push down on the pedal, can't flow back freely when you let it up - it feels like the pedal is "sticking", as you describe. The hose might look fine on the outside... the "collapsing" problem is inside of the hose.

Could also be your master cylinder leaking internally. Fluid can leak past the seals inside the mc, leading to problems when you have the pedal depressed for any length of time (like waiting for a red light).

Slave cylinder can develop leaks, too - but fluid usually leaks out, leaving spots on your driveway.

Worst case scenario - a problem with the throwout bearing or pressure plate. It's "worst case" because the clutch has to come out of the car to fix it, a big job. This is unlikely. You don't have very many miles on your car, clutch components can last MUCH longer than 105 K as long as they're not abused.

Here's what I'd do:

** Always do the cheapest/easiest things first, then move on to the more involved/expensive! Before replacing anything, be sure the fluid level is topped up. Make sure there's nothing interfering with the movement of the pedal itself. Bleed the system to be sure there's no air in the line.

** Replace the clutch hose first. It's the easiest and cheapest. Bleed the air out of the system and go for a drive. If you still have a problem, then...

** Get your master cylinder and slave cylinder rebuilt. New fluid, bleed... check it out. Should be fixed. If not, it's probably an internal clutch problem. Hope your on good terms with your favorite mechanic!...

Good luck!

tck...

tck...

Thanks I'll take your advice and share it with the mechanic who hasn't found the problem yet.

Capk

[lenore]

Clutch pedal is increasingly reluctuant to return to position on my 5-speed manual trans. 1992 ES300. This is especially true if I hold the pedal down like at a red light. When the clutch pedal does remain down at the floorboard, I can actually "flip" the pedal back to position with my toe and clutch (so far) works so as to allow shifting of the gears. I've got about 105k on the car. Assuming these are the signs of clutch cylinder repair, should I have it AND the slave piston cylinder repaired/replaced at the same time? Thanks in advance!

Sounds like a hydraulic problem.

Check the rubber flex hose that connects to your slave cylinder. The rubber gets "mushy" over time, it can collapse internally and block the flow of hydraulic fluid back to the master cylinder when you let up on the clutch pedal. If the hose has deteriorated, the fluid flows OK to the slave when you push down on the pedal, can't flow back freely when you let it up - it feels like the pedal is "sticking", as you describe. The hose might look fine on the outside... the "collapsing" problem is inside of the hose.

Could also be your master cylinder leaking internally. Fluid can leak past the seals inside the mc, leading to problems when you have the pedal depressed for any length of time (like waiting for a red light).

Slave cylinder can develop leaks, too - but fluid usually leaks out, leaving spots on your driveway.

Worst case scenario - a problem with the throwout bearing or pressure plate. It's "worst case" because the clutch has to come out of the car to fix it, a big job. This is unlikely. You don't have very many miles on your car, clutch components can last MUCH longer than 105 K as long as they're not abused.

Here's what I'd do:

** Always do the cheapest/easiest things first, then move on to the more involved/expensive! Before replacing anything, be sure the fluid level is topped up. Make sure there's nothing interfering with the movement of the pedal itself. Bleed the system to be sure there's no air in the line.

** Replace the clutch hose first. It's the easiest and cheapest. Bleed the air out of the system and go for a drive. If you still have a problem, then...

** Get your master cylinder and slave cylinder rebuilt. New fluid, bleed... check it out. Should be fixed. If not, it's probably an internal clutch problem. Hope your on good terms with your favorite mechanic!...

Good luck!

tck...

Hey tc I see your mgb, that would certainly bring up fond memories of british hydralics and failing slave pistons. Rebuilt many a Triumph, MGB, and Jaguar clutch and brake system. And your assessment on diagnosing the problem is excellent.

[tckcumming]

Hey tc I see your mgb, that would certainly bring up fond memories of british hydralics and failing slave pistons. Rebuilt many a Triumph, MGB, and Jaguar clutch and brake system. And your assessment on diagnosing the problem is excellent.

Thanks!

It's nice to hear from another "LBC" enthusiast. I've owned many British cars over the years - including a couple of "original" Minis, a Lotus, a Triumph TR250... so I have a VAST knowledge of leaky hydraulics. I have owned this green MGB for almost 30 years! It has about 160,000+ miles. There is hardly a single part on it that hasn't been removed, repaired or replaced by me.

Capk - let us know what your mechanic finds. Hope it's nothing serious/expen$ive.

tck...

[Capk]

Hey tc I see your mgb, that would certainly bring up fond memories of british hydralics and failing slave pistons. Rebuilt many a Triumph, MGB, and Jaguar clutch and brake system. And your assessment on diagnosing the problem is excellent.

Thanks!

It's nice to hear from another "LBC" enthusiast. I've owned many British cars over the years - including a couple of "original" Minis, a Lotus, a Triumph TR250... so I have a VAST knowledge of leaky hydraulics. I have owned this green MGB for almost 30 years! It has about 160,000+ miles. There is hardly a single part on it that hasn't been removed, repaired or replaced by me.

Capk - let us know what your mechanic finds. Hope it's nothing serious/expen$ive.

tck...

tck,

I have her in the shop still. The mechanic and service manager have driven the car several times without a problem, however, I e-mailed them your response and asked them to check it out as you described. Will keep you posted. Thanks again!

Capk