Lex01_430

Another Door Lock Problem

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Here is the problem. i searched, but didn't find any car with the exact same symptoms. I can lock my door with the key or manually, but not with the remote or door switch. I can however Unlock the door with the remote everytime. (I can't seem to remember if i can unlock it from the inside) Is this the same problem as everyone else?

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So what does that mean? do i need to change my locking mech? i checked if the switch will work, however it does not lock or unlock only my remote will unlock the door (not lock).

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Do the other doors in the car lock and unlock properly with both the transmitter and the lock switches? If the problem is isolated to one door continue below.

Previous post

Disassemble and test the motor in the latch. If it works, the problem is either in the door ECU or body ECU. Check for lose connectors between all components, i.e. switch, door ECU, door lock motor (in the latch.)

It's very odd that the transmitter will only unlock it. For the transmitter to unlock the door the wireless ECU has to send a signal to the body ECU, then to the door ECU, then the door ECU sends power to the motor. Activating "Unlock" from the door switch sends a signal directly to the door ECU then from there it powers the lock motor. It should unlock from the switch as well.

A reset of the cars systems by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes generally is a good place to start before going further.

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so i took off the door panel and damn there is a birds nest. i believe there is an aftermarket alarm. i don't know how much of a problem this could be since i have had the car for a year...if i can get the aftermarket alarm remote maybe i'll try to use that. i'll try the battery, however the other stuff seems hard. is there some sort of diagram to determine what wires should go where?

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In cases where there is an aftermarket alarm involved, especially if it is not being used, I recommend to remove it; 100%.

The general idea is to repair every cut wire and remove the alarm completely. I would bet money that the Lexus system functions perfectly if you get the "junk" out.

In all likelyhood, there may look like a lot of wires in there but there may only end up to be about 10-15 that you will actually have to deal with.

The schematic to the door lock system is below. It is extensive, but concentrate on the page the pertains to the section of wiring you are working on and it shouldn't be too difficult. Often, the two ends of a cut factory wire can easly be identified just by the specific color and wire diameter.

Page "1" in the 2nd. .pdf pertains to the areas of the driver's door, page "2" the passenger's.

Door_Lock_Schematics_1.pdf

Door_Lock_Schematics_2.pdf

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correction...front left driver side doesnt work. I got the alarm and all it does is make the lights blink. its a viper alarm. is it kinda weird that the alarm doesn't do anything at all. also isnt it weird for me to use the key to lock the driver side from the passenger side considering the existing problems? so i guess i am left with taking out the alarm if i can figure out what the drawing is directing me to do. hope this works.

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what does the door/body ecu look like and approximatley where do i find them?

The door ECU is inside the door. There is one inside of each door. It's the only square black box inside the door with a bunch of things plugged into it. It will be clearly marked "Toyota" and possibly "Left" or "L" (on the drivers side.) The body ECU is buried up front. Usually, aftermarket installers never go near it. Most of the alterations will be in the area of the alarm unit itself.

You may want to consult a garage or stereo/alarm shop if you don't have experience in automotive wiring. It's not a particularly hard job, but it can be tedious; especially if you've never done it before.

On locking the driver's door from the passenger's side.

Explaination. The aftermarket alarm was probably spliced into the switch wiring of the driver's door. Now the driver's door switch doesn't work. The transmitter may not control this lock for a similar reason. Something was either cut or otherwise disconnected in that area.

When you lock the passenger's side door, turning the key sends a signal to the other doors to each lock. Somehow that signal is getting through, but the signals from the other locking mechanisms (physical switches and/or transmitter(s)) are not.

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i tired to remove the alarm brain and i still get the same roblem. it looks like the switch is trying to move but is stuck...could there be something wrong with the actuator that moves the switch into the lock position?

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It is possible that the latch assembly is bad and will unlock but not lock. The latch containing the motor and associated switches is expensive, at $252.51 MSRP. If you hear the motor in the latch trying to lock the door, it's very likely a bad latch assembly.

Note: Normally, with the driver's door open, the door will lock electrically and immediately unlock. This is a feature to prevent locking your keys in the car. With the door closed, it should lock normally and stay that way.

i tired to remove the alarm brain and i still get the same roblem. it looks like the switch is trying to move but is stuck...could there be something wrong with the actuator that moves the switch into the lock position?

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since this may not be an electrical problem do you think it would be hard to make some jig that will make it work again? i don't understand how something mechanical like a push/pull rod will break.

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Aparently, I do not understand your problem. Your original post states:

"I can lock my door with the key or manually, but not with the remote or door switch."

It sure sounds like the problem is electrical to me. Perhaps if you try again to describe what is possible and what is not, we can be of furthur assistance.

1. Lock with key yes/no

2. Lock with manual actuator button yes/no

3. Unlock with key yes/no

4. Unlock with manual actuator button yes/no

5. Lock with remote yes/no

6. Lock with electrical lock switch yes/no

7. Unlock with remote yes/no

8. Unlock with electrical lock switch yes/no

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1. Lock with key (yes)

2. Lock with manual actuator button (yes) this is by hand...?

3. Unlock with key (yes)

4. Unlock with manual actuator button (yes)

5. Lock with remote (no)

6. Lock with electrical lock switch (no)

7. Unlock with remote (yes)

8. Unlock with electrical lock switch (yes) gotta verify but im pretty sure. car is down the street

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OK, if all the other doors lock with both the remote and switch, I would say you need a new latch assembly. Don't come looking for me if it doesn't work. It's the best I can do without seeing it for myself.

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BTW I got an aftermarket actuator kit ($20) and it now works...now the left rear does work too. same symptoms...

Lex01_430, can you tell me where you purcahse your aftermarket door actuator kit? Thank you.

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BTW I got an aftermarket actuator kit ($20) and it now works...now the left rear does work too. same symptoms...

Lex01_430, can you tell me where you purcahse your aftermarket door actuator kit? Thank you.

Perhaps it's none of my business, but I continue to wonder why people that drive the finest cars on this planet begrudge the price of parts. Usually, it is after years and thousands of miles of troublefree service that one of our cars needs something. All of the sudden, people become bargain shoppers.

I find this attitude particularly irritating in my shop where removing the aftermarket crap that people "improve" their cars with is a weekly occurence.

That being said, Toyota products have been designed with the utmost care and attention to detail. Often, replacing a seemingly simple part with another which was not specifically designed for the purpose, will lead to more problems down the road. More often than not, it is more trouble in the end than if the part would have just been replaced with the proper one. If you value a continued, virtually trouble-free relationship with your car, do it and yourself a favor. Do it once and do it right.

On a related note...

There is (was?) a service campaign having to do with some 1998 model GS300 & GS400 models for the rear door latches. Under the campaign, affected cars will have the rear door latches replaced and the front latches inspected and/or replaced. The cited problem is that the interior lamp may not illuminate when a door is opened. The switch is in the latch assembly. So I suppose, if your car falls within the affected VIN range and you are having a door locking problem....and you just happen to nitice your interior lamp does not always illuminate...ahem...you may have a chance of getting it fixed under the provisions of the campaign.

Special_Service_Campaign_XL1.pdf

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BTW I got an aftermarket actuator kit ($20) and it now works...now the left rear does work too. same symptoms...

Lex01_430, can you tell me where you purcahse your aftermarket door actuator kit? Thank you.

Perhaps it's none of my business, but I continue to wonder why people that drive the finest cars on this planet begrudge the price of parts. Usually, it is after years and thousands of miles of troublefree service that one of our cars needs something. All of the sudden, people become bargain shoppers.

I find this attitude particularly irritating in my shop where removing the aftermarket crap that people "improve" their cars with is a weekly occurence.

That being said, Toyota products have been designed with the utmost care and attention to detail. Often, replacing a seemingly simple part with another which was not specifically designed for the purpose, will lead to more problems down the road. More often than not, it is more trouble in the end than if the part would have just been replaced with the proper one. If you value a continued, virtually trouble-free relationship with your car, do it and yourself a favor. Do it once and do it right.

On a related note...

There is (was?) a service campaign having to do with some 1998 model GS300 & GS400 models for the rear door latches. Under the campaign, affected cars will have the rear door latches replaced and the front latches inspected and/or replaced. The cited problem is that the interior lamp may not illuminate when a door is opened. The switch is in the latch assembly. So I suppose, if your car falls within the affected VIN range and you are having a door locking problem....and you just happen to nitice your interior lamp does not always illuminate...ahem...you may have a chance of getting it fixed under the provisions of the campaign.

Thanks, but perhaps you shouldn't jump to a conclusion so soon without knowing more. How do you know I am keeping the car for another 5-10 years? You don't know that. In fact, I am planning to sell my 98 GS300 soon, so paying $300 to fix the door lock actuator problem doesn't make sense for me, but I do need to get it fix before selling the car. Besides, if you read the Lexus SSC carefully, you will realize it only calls for a new door lock if necessary. The direction describes removing the original/old door lock actuator (see page 41) and installing it on the new front door lock. I do appreciate the article though since it shows exactly how to replace the door lock actuator. BTW, do you know of any SSC for defective telescopic steering wheel that no long extended (but up and down still works)? Thank you.

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Thanks, but perhaps you shouldn't jump to a conclusion so soon without knowing more. How do you know I am keeping the car for another 5-10 years? You don't know that. In fact, I am planning to sell my 98 GS300 soon, so paying $300 to fix the door lock actuator problem doesn't make sense for me, but I do need to get it fix before selling the car. Besides, if you read the Lexus SSC carefully, you will realize it only calls for a new door lock if necessary. The direction describes removing the original/old door lock actuator (see page 41) and installing it on the new front door lock. I do appreciate the article though since it shows exactly how to replace the door lock actuator. BTW, do you know of any SSC for defective telescopic steering wheel that no long extended (but up and down still works)? Thank you.

You are correct, the SSC is not applicable to your problem unless you had a problem with a rear door. The assembly is replaced including it's component parts for the rear only, not the front. I don't believe you ever mentioned if your problem was in the front or the back.

There is no TSB or SSC related to the steering motor to my knowledge.

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Any luck on the telescopic steeering wheel? My GS400 does just the opposite. the wheel will move in/out, but not up and down. Curious if you repaired yourself>? If so, how difficult? If dealer repair, what was the cost?

Thx,

wallcloud

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On a related note...

There is (was?) a service campaign having to do with some 1998 model GS300 & GS400 models for the rear door latches. Under the campaign, affected cars will have the rear door latches replaced and the front latches inspected and/or replaced. The cited problem is that the interior lamp may not illuminate when a door is opened. The switch is in the latch assembly. So I suppose, if your car falls within the affected VIN range and you are having a door locking problem....and you just happen to nitice your interior lamp does not always illuminate...ahem...you may have a chance of getting it fixed under the provisions of the campaign.

Thanks for the attachment. My 2000 RX300 has a similar problem (mechanical locks work - key and actuator button, electrical doesn't work - remote and push button) and reading this really helps.

thanks again.

ps. not tele's in my tube collection.

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BTW I got an aftermarket actuator kit ($20) and it now works...now the left rear does work too. same symptoms...

What is the procedure to take the door panel out

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BTW I got an aftermarket actuator kit ($20) and it now works...now the left rear does work too. same symptoms...

Where did you get the aftermarket actuator kit? Thanks

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