RDM Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 Hey guys, bear with me if these seem trivial, I've spent a few hours searching these topics and got a lot of good info but would like a final analysis to move on. I picked up a 92 LS400 a few months ago from auction to flip for some cash, but I've grown to like the car and decided to keep it. It has all the typical issues these cars seem to have, dead climate backlighting, screaming PS pump, brake light indicator malfunction, etc. I've done some work for all of it but have found the car unwilling to let go of it's problems. 1) climate backlight - Is Jim Walker's fix the best option? I'm certain a lot of people are now running this, is it as dependable as the OE part and has continued to work good? I don't mind paying OE money if it's gauranteed, but since this is considerably cheaper I just want to make sure it's not going to die a year down the road. I didn't see any kind of gaurantee while browsing around. 2) PS pump- Are reman pumps just crap for these cars? I'm on my second, fully flushed both times and filled with fresh ATF, and now the third one is whining when it's cold out. Again I don't mind paying more money if it's going to fix it because it's a pain to swap it once a month, even if it's not costing me anything but time. Lexus quoted me substaintially more for an OE pump but did not offer any kind of gaurantee other than '90 days or so'. 3) Brake light indicator- This one has killed me. I've spent the past four days tracing harnesses and replacing bulbs to no avail. There was mention of a resistor in a few threads but nothing detailed, has anyone gotten this problem to go away completely and if so, what size/wattage resistor is required? I'm not worried about cruise for the most part since it's an in town car, but that light coming on erratically is the most annoying thing I've ever dealt with. You'd think on a 'premium' car you wouldn't have these issues. Other that those things, what else can I expect to find as I continue to drive the car, and would should I look out for as cost prohibitive to repair? Thanks for all the input you can give, I intend to return the favors as I just bought a salvage 92 to steal parts off of and will be parting it fully within a few weeks, I need to move it quick so I'll have a lot to sell for those looking for spare parts.
larryp Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 On item # 3, you may want to have your alternator tested. False warning lights can be an indicator that the alternator is about to go. On the PS, i put in an Autozone cheapy a couple of years ago and haven't had any problems but i think that's atypical of most folks' experience. I'm sure you'll get good suggestions from others. Got 196k on my 91 and it has been a great ride. Welcome to the club!
sv7887 Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 RDM, Welcome to the Club! I have a 1992 LS that I've kept for over 11 years! It's got 98K on it now. 1) I've seen Jim Walker's name mentioned for the 93-94 LS clusters which are different from those in the 1992. I had my needles and backlight repaired by DashUsa. http://www.dashusa.com/. He's a great guy, quick turnaround. He charged me $350 for repair of all four needles and Backlight. His work comes with a one year warranty. 2) I had my P/S Pump replaced with a OEM Lexus part. They charged me $530. (I get all my work done at the dealer). Their parts normally have an one year warranty, at least they do in MA. 3) Not sure about this issue. You may want to get your alternator tested. Are you using OEM bulbs on the car? Other posters may have more information on this one. Once again welcome to LOC! Sam
RDM Posted February 28, 2006 Author Posted February 28, 2006 Great info guy, thanks. I'm using over the counter bulbs, so maybe that's an issue, but I'll also pull the alternator next chance I get to have it checked too. I've got a great rebuilder right down the street who does me right, my main source of income is parting out Nissan 240SXs so he gets all the used ones to overhaul for me, I think he'd love a break from those tiny things for a change. I also have one other issue I forgot about, the rear windows do not roll up from the master switch. I figure it's the switch, but until I get the parts car I won't be able to swap and check. I forgot to run a search on that topic so forgive me if it's common, I'll check that in a few minutes but feel free to throw in input if you can. Thanks for the warm welcome, this is a much upscale crowd than I'm used to.
nc211 Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 Did...did he just call us..HIGH CLASS??? Oh man, you are a newbie! hahaha. Welcome to the club amigo.
Threadcutter Posted February 28, 2006 Posted February 28, 2006 Did...did he just call us..HIGH CLASS??? Oh man, you are a newbie! hahaha. Welcome to the club amigo. :cheers: Or did he say "Cat's Asssss"..........................
RDM Posted March 1, 2006 Author Posted March 1, 2006 You guys are seriously two steps above 240SX owners. Though the majority of the guys I know have been around forever, the newer owners coming in with the 'drifting' fad are all 16, ignorant, and ask the same questions we all answered 15 years ago. It's bad. I'm open to any forum where there's a shred of maturity, even if it's an 'act'.
RFeldes Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 That's nice to hear, as we "Cut" up, hence Thread"Cut"ter, once in a while :whistles: We tend to get off subject.:whistles: But all in all a great bunch of Mature :whistles: And helpful Guys and Gals that take our Lexus's Seriously :whistles: Again, Welcome to the club and have fun!! ;) A good laugh is better than 10 Prozacs. Hopefully, you will make some friends here ,as I have, and we can keep you enthusiasm for your Lexus at the same time..
CUMan Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 Regarding the brake light indicator isssue, you mention that you have "traced harnesses." I assume from this that you have read some of the many threads about the problem involving broken wires in the driver side trunk hinge wiring harness. This problem usually causes numerous different electrical malfunctions. It is a very common problem on the early 90's LS models. If you have not checked this out, I think it would be a good idea. Another possibility would be corrosion on the contact points in the bulbholders. This is a very common problem on the ES models but not so common on the LS models.
RDM Posted March 1, 2006 Author Posted March 1, 2006 I have checked both, nothing out of the ordinary so far. I'm near the point of removing the bulb entirely, though again that's not something I'd prefer to do for such a silly problem. Check engine light bulbs on a car without emission controls is one thing, but this really shouldn't come to taking a bulb out to cover up a problem that shouldn't occur on a quality automobile. I'd expect it on a GM car, not a Toyota. But to share a little more since my 240 guys don't care, I received a set of KYB GR2s today along with a full set of 18" LS430 Sport wheels. There's a seller on Ebay moving replica units for $495/set, absolutely gorgeous finish, OE emblems on the center caps, very nice. Better than the $1000+ OE takeoff sets I've seen. Planning on using all the suspension pieces from the parts car to sandblast, powdercoat, and fit ADUS bushings in to tighten up the 14yr old chassis. But that's another discussion.
W201 sweden Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 Welcome, RDM! I also joined this community recently, and I'm impressed by the friendliness and level of know-how each time I get here... :) /Alexander from Sweden
nc211 Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 I have checked both, nothing out of the ordinary so far. I'm near the point of removing the bulb entirely, though again that's not something I'd prefer to do for such a silly problem. Check engine light bulbs on a car without emission controls is one thing, but this really shouldn't come to taking a bulb out to cover up a problem that shouldn't occur on a quality automobile. I'd expect it on a GM car, not a Toyota. But to share a little more since my 240 guys don't care, I received a set of KYB GR2s today along with a full set of 18" LS430 Sport wheels. There's a seller on Ebay moving replica units for $495/set, absolutely gorgeous finish, OE emblems on the center caps, very nice. Better than the $1000+ OE takeoff sets I've seen. Planning on using all the suspension pieces from the parts car to sandblast, powdercoat, and fit ADUS bushings in to tighten up the 14yr old chassis. But that's another discussion. Have you checked ALL the exterior lights, including turn signals, marker lights, fog, etc? That little warning light notifies you if any light bulb is out in general, not just the head lights.
John2 Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 got a 92. i replaced ps pump with rebuilt from advanced auto (a-1 cardone brand) for $110 12 months ago and it's been leaking slightly for maybe 5 months now. peice of crap. but dealer price was $450 for new... took me 14 hours to do. could do it in 6 now, of course or less...
Threadcutter Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 got a 92. i replaced ps pump with rebuilt from advanced auto (a-1 cardone brand) for $110 12 months ago and it's been leaking slightly for maybe 5 months now. peice of crap. but dealer price was $450 for new... took me 14 hours to do. could do it in 6 now, of course or less... John: You have other things going on besides just the pump. Do a search for Power Steering Pump, read the posts (there is a HUGE amount of information) & come back & ask any questions that you may have. There are at least 2 new threads started each week on this subject. There are a lot of guys on this board that will help you, myself included, but our typing fingers will wear out if we repeat what we've alreday said in previous posts. We'll get you through it, it won't be too painful, and it won't cost you a ton of money either.
akewlguy Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 3) Brake light indicator- This one has killed me. I've spent the past four days tracing harnesses and replacing bulbs to no avail. There was mention of a resistor in a few threads but nothing detailed, has anyone gotten this problem to go away completely and if so, what size/wattage resistor is required? I'm not worried about cruise for the most part since it's an in town car, but that light coming on erratically is the most annoying thing I've ever dealt with. You'd think on a 'premium' car you wouldn't have these issues. My light would not go out after I put LED's in the rear. I guess there is a different amount of resistance in bulb or something. So I put a piece of electrical tape over projector and no longer see that stupid light. Additionally I did the same to seatbelt light. Cheers to LS
John2 Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 threadcutter, thanks, but i've done my homework ad nauseum for 2 yrs now. yes, replaced the air valve, etc... i've gotten under it and see where the housing is leaking. again, peice of crap! :) jc
Threadcutter Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 threadcutter, thanks, but i've done my homework ad nauseum for 2 yrs now. yes, replaced the air valve, etc... i've gotten under it and see where the housing is leaking. again, peice of crap! :) jc John: i've done my homework ad nauseum for 2 yrs now. Fair enough. I firmly believe that the single biggest reason for failure of the Power Steering System is the little POS filter/screen on the Steering Rack Solenoid. When the pump is operating, small pieces of rubber from the "Vane Carrier" in the pump are "shedding" into the system. For better or worse, that's just the way the pump works. The output (high pressure side) of the pump goes through the high pressure hose, directly to the solenoid filter. WHEN (not "IF") the solenoid filter clogs up with rubber, the output pressure of the pump rises to unacceptable, damaging levels. This is because of the added restriction (Clog) from the rubber collecting on the filter. Bernoulli says "flow goes down, pressure goes up". It is this condition that causes seals in the pump to leak and ultimately fail. Then, you get the "P/S fluid dripping on the alternator" failure of the alternator. This is why I'm so adamant about cleaning the solenoid filter. It's that little cheap piece of crap that causes repairs of upwards of $2,000.00 in some cases. If a person can keep that filter clean, great. If not, it's going to be a "daisy chain" failure of the entire system. I'm also adamant that you NOT just replace the P/S pump & do nothing else. You (figuratively speaking) are just throwing your money away. If someone is going to do that, I'd be happy to send them my mailing address. I could use the cash. BTW, I did my pump about three months ago. I purchased a MAVAL & have had no problems. But I also cleaned the filter on the solenoid & completely flushed the system of old fluid. I've given serious consideration to total removal of the solenoid screen & putting in a much larger (ie; better) filter on the low pressure return side between the steering rack and the P/S Pump Reservoir. Just haven't gotten around to it yet. Some will argue about "how much damage the contaminants will do to the solenoid". I'll counter with the arguement that any contaminants will only make it three quarters of the way around the "Closed Circuit" of the Power Steering Sytem before the are trapped by the filter.
RFeldes Posted March 1, 2006 Posted March 1, 2006 Threadcutter is 100% right about that little solenoid screen...
RDM Posted March 2, 2006 Author Posted March 2, 2006 got a 92. i replaced ps pump with rebuilt from advanced auto (a-1 cardone brand) for $110 12 months ago and it's been leaking slightly for maybe 5 months now. peice of crap. but dealer price was $450 for new... took me 14 hours to do. could do it in 6 now, of course or less... Wow, was that with a 12 hour break? :D It was a pretty easy job the first time, cake the second, I just think it's stupid to mount the reservoir on the pump, that's just asking for a mess.
Threadcutter Posted March 2, 2006 Posted March 2, 2006 Wow, was that with a 12 hour break? :D It was a pretty easy job the first time, cake the second, I just think it's stupid to mount the reservoir on the pump, that's just asking for a mess. RDM: By way of discloure, I thought the replacement of mine was a PITA too........... It would have been nice if the "last" mounting bolt wasn't buried up, underneath & in the back of the pulley on the Pump. Particularly where/when it gets covered in P/S fluid & dirt so you can't see it, don't know it's there, but can't get the pump loose. Marvelous................ I couldn't agree with you more about the reservoir. How about the nice job they did making the reservoir filter "servicable"?.........
RFeldes Posted March 2, 2006 Posted March 2, 2006 Wow, was that with a 12 hour break? :D It was a pretty easy job the first time, cake the second, I just think it's stupid to mount the reservoir on the pump, that's just asking for a mess. RDM: By way of discloure, I thought the replacement of mine was a PITA too........... It would have been nice if the "last" mounting bolt wasn't buried up, underneath & in the back of the pulley on the Pump. Particularly where/when it gets covered in P/S fluid & dirt so you can't see it, don't know it's there, but can't get the pump loose. Marvelous................ I couldn't agree with you more about the reservoir. How about the nice job they did making the reservoir filter "servicable"?......... At a loss for words.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now