Self Oil Change?

[RX400h]

If any of you has changed his/her own oil, did you have to buy the filter at the dealership? I've heard that dealerships around here are using 10W-30 synthetic blends. If I find that the manual recommends 5W-30 (I'll be rereading it soon), then that's what I'll use.

I always change the oil in my other cars, so I'm tempted to do the same with this one, especially considering the price of having the dealership do it.

[litzdog911]

You can buy oil filters and other common maintenance parts here ....

http://lexus-parts.com/

[RX400h]

You can buy oil filters and other common maintenance parts here ....

http://lexus-parts.com/

For some reason, they don't list oil filters!

[RX400h]

Well, I did find out that K&N's HP-1002 fits both the RX330 AND the RX400h. It's about $9.00 at Auto Parts Warehouse.

See http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-1002

[BadBrad]

FYI the Hylander Hybrid and the 400h both use the same filter, but $2.00 cheaper at Toyota. I really enjoyed making the Lexus parts guy go get me a filter, and then I told him "oh sorry, I can get that a bunch cheaper at the dealership next door." Bummer.

[RX400h]

The K&N filter may not be as inexpensive as the OEM filter, but its welded-on nut makes installing and removing it a much easier task. I'm due for another change in a couple of weeks and I'm glad that nut will be there when I go to loosen the filter. It is in the most remote area of the engine I have ever encountered in my 32 years of changing oil and filters.

[kmke]

You can buy oil filters and other common maintenance parts here ....

http://lexus-parts.com/

For some reason, they don't list oil filters!

Under Maintenance Filters when sorted by model they list filters at $3.98 each.

http://lexus-parts.com/partdetail.asp?Part...ubCategoryID=41

[BadBrad]

Well,

After investigating another thread on this forum and finding out for myself that a typical strapwrench was not going to work on the oil filter I went to Autozone and bought the right tool (see picture) for under $7.00. This bad boy slips over the rear end of the filter with nary a problem. Stick your 3/8s ratchet with a two inch extension in the hole in the back of the tool. As you loosen the filter the springloaded mechanism grabs hold of the filter and gets progessively tighter when more torque is applied.

Toyota filters have an anti backflow valve. Best part about this is that if you get the filter flipped over fast enough you basically loose next to no oil. Sure enough, I had a total of two drips on the ground. :D

By the way that filter will go through a gap between the catalyst off the header and the fan housing. As you face the car this to the right of where the filter mounts to the block. Before you start the job test fit the new (and dry) filter through the gap.

I recognize that the K&N filter might be a bit easier to remove but the tool is a better investment over the life of the car. The tool makes the job so easy I reccomend saving your money and buying the toyota filter.

To get the new filter on and tightened by hand I grabbed the filter with some emory paper in my hand for better grip.

My total oil change time: 30 minutes, filter came out the top, and not nearly the big deal I originally envisioned.

Hope this is helpful to you other DIY guys.

[RX400h]

Thanks for the tips. I will try them out within the next two weeks. The other thing I did not mention about the K&N oil filter is that a fairly extensive test by bobistheoilguy.com found that only a few oil filters out of the many tested provided both minimal pressure drop and excellent filtration properties. I noticed when I switched from an OEM AC Delco to the K&N in my Corvette, time-to-running pressure (about 40 psi) became noticably faster, along with reduced-duration piston slap noise.

Granted, I don't know how the Toyota filter compares, but my guess is that the K&N is a "step-up" in reduced pressure drop, compared to the Toyota OEM. What this means is that internal engine components get lubricated a bit faster during the crucial seconds of startup - the time when most engine wear occurs.

By the way, I do have a filter wrench that is very similar to the one you have shown. I did find that you normally need to use both hands to use it effectivly - one hand holds the wrench on the filter, while the other hand cranks the socket wrench. With the K&N filter, one hand is all that you need to loosen the filter.

Dave

[RX400h]

I changed my oil again in the RX. Lesson learned today: NEVER buy the 5 gallon container of oil. It is almost impossible to NOT spill the stuff when trying to pour it into a funnel. One of the problems is that the oil fill opening is about 8 inches down in between a few other components, making it hard to pour oil into it. The other thing that is not convenient is the fact that the bottom of the funnel I used can't sit inside the hole sufficiently so that it can stand up on its own. You must hold the funnel while pouring the oil in it, meaning that manuevering a giant 5-gallon container of oil to pour accurately is out of the question!

Ah, but these little "challenges" are fun. Oil cleanup, however, is not.....! :chairshot:

[Gryphon]

Well,

After investigating another thread on this forum and finding out for myself that a typical strapwrench was not going to work on the oil filter I went to Autozone and bought the right tool (see picture) for under $7.00. This bad boy slips over the rear end of the filter with nary a problem. Stick your 3/8s ratchet with a two inch extension in the hole in the back of the tool. As you loosen the filter the springloaded mechanism grabs hold of the filter and gets progessively tighter when more torque is applied.

Toyota filters have an anti backflow valve. Best part about this is that if you get the filter flipped over fast enough you basically loose next to no oil. Sure enough, I had a total of two drips on the ground. :D

By the way that filter will go through a gap between the catalyst off the header and the fan housing. As you face the car this to the right of where the filter mounts to the block. Before you start the job test fit the new (and dry) filter through the gap.

I recognize that the K&N filter might be a bit easier to remove but the tool is a better investment over the life of the car. The tool makes the job so easy I reccomend saving your money and buying the toyota filter.

To get the new filter on and tightened by hand I grabbed the filter with some emory paper in my hand for better grip.

My total oil change time: 30 minutes, filter came out the top, and not nearly the big deal I originally envisioned.

Hope this is helpful to you other DIY guys.

Brad,

That's some good information on changing oil, but it would be great of you would elaborate on the entire procedure, perhaps a more formal write-up. So far I have several bleeding cuts on my left hand and wrist from simply trying to get a tool on the oil filter, just for practice. I still have questions such as:

1. Do you need to remove one or more lower panels to catch the oil, remove the drain plugs, and catch the oil?

2. Did you use ramps or jack stands?

3. How did you minimize/avoid spilling oil when you removed the filter?

4. Is the oil filter tool from Autozone sold specifically for Toyota filters?

Thanks in advance.

Tom

[larrytrk]

For $27 my dealer will change my oil and install my oil, filter and crush washer, Also dispose of old oil.

No need to Do it my self, for that price!

[Jim Nazium]

In the case of the RX400h, it is not to me a cost issue, it's more a case of oil filter location. The engineers missed the boat on this one. I find the location difficult to get to, and worse, makes a mess no matter what you do. So, for the grief and frustration I have given up on doing it myself. What I do is go to the dealer but at the midway point of the mileage point, I dump just the oil and refresh with new oil.

Cheers,

MadloR

[NeoN]

can anyone add a pic of where the oil filter is attatched under the RX400h?

[Gryphon]

For $27 my dealer will change my oil and install my oil, filter and crush washer, Also dispose of old oil.

No need to Do it my self, for that price!

My dealer is considerably higher than $27, and also wants a fortune to upgrade to synthetic oil. You'd think it was MobileOne with gold additives.

Where is the drain plug?

Tom

[RX400h]

Well,

After investigating another thread on this forum and finding out for myself that a typical strapwrench was not going to work on the oil filter I went to Autozone and bought the right tool (see picture) for under $7.00. This bad boy slips over the rear end of the filter with nary a problem. Stick your 3/8s ratchet with a two inch extension in the hole in the back of the tool. As you loosen the filter the springloaded mechanism grabs hold of the filter and gets progessively tighter when more torque is applied.

Toyota filters have an anti backflow valve. Best part about this is that if you get the filter flipped over fast enough you basically loose next to no oil. Sure enough, I had a total of two drips on the ground. :D

By the way that filter will go through a gap between the catalyst off the header and the fan housing. As you face the car this to the right of where the filter mounts to the block. Before you start the job test fit the new (and dry) filter through the gap.

I recognize that the K&N filter might be a bit easier to remove but the tool is a better investment over the life of the car. The tool makes the job so easy I reccomend saving your money and buying the toyota filter.

To get the new filter on and tightened by hand I grabbed the filter with some emory paper in my hand for better grip.

My total oil change time: 30 minutes, filter came out the top, and not nearly the big deal I originally envisioned.

Hope this is helpful to you other DIY guys.

Brad,

That's some good information on changing oil, but it would be great of you would elaborate on the entire procedure, perhaps a more formal write-up. So far I have several bleeding cuts on my left hand and wrist from simply trying to get a tool on the oil filter, just for practice. I still have questions such as:

1. Do you need to remove one or more lower panels to catch the oil, remove the drain plugs, and catch the oil?

2. Did you use ramps or jack stands?

3. How did you minimize/avoid spilling oil when you removed the filter?

4. Is the oil filter tool from Autozone sold specifically for Toyota filters?

Thanks in advance.

Tom

Since Brad may not be around any longer, I will comment about this issue, once again.

I have 4 different types of oil filter wrenches and yes, the one mentioned by Brad is among them. I found that even this type is a real pain to use. I continue to stand by my choice, the K&N oil filter, not only because it has a built-in (welded) nut on its top (making it very easy to remove with a simple adjustable wrench), but because K&N makes an excellent filter (proven by quite a few users' oil analysis and bobistheoilguy) for about $10.

1. Do you need to remove one or more lower panels to catch the oil, remove the drain plugs, and catch the oil?

No, I remove the rear screws so that I can bow the panel forward and then reach up (right of center when facing forward) to get at the oil filter. I found out exactly where it is by looking at some RX330 pics I found by doing a Google search.

2. Did you use ramps or jack stands?

Rhino ramps at Walmart ($30): These are very light and incredibly strong (I have the 12,000 lb versions).

3. How did you minimize/avoid spilling oil when you removed the filter?

I use two oil pans, one for draining the oil and the other for catching oil filter oil. It is very tough to not spill any, however. In fact, despite my extensive cleanup, a typically see a drop or two for a few days afterward.

4. Get the K&N oil filter; it'll make removal MUCH easier. I've done it many, many times now.

[RX400h]

can anyone add a pic of where the oil filter is attatched under the RX400h?

This is VERY similar to what we have:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=21979

Dave

[Gryphon]

Thanks, Dave. Good information.

If I can get this done before my rotator cuff surgery, I'll post some details from my first RX400h oil change experience.

Tom

[RX400h]

Good luck with your surgery, Tom. Once you get past finding and removing the oil filter, the rest is a piece of cake!

Dave

[vinovelo]

Hi all,

I will do my first oil change on the 400h in a short while.

My question is: How to run the engine to check for oil leaks?

My methodology for oil filter changes is to pull the injection fuse to spin the engine with

new oil to get the pressure started (so as not to crank a dry engine if doing a cold drain)

fill the filter, then run the engine and check for leaks before final top off of the oil level.

The problem is that that the 400h has the tendency to just sit there with the engine off.

Is there a jumper setting or something to force the gas engine on?

/Steve

[mindmachine]

Hi all,

I will do my first oil change on the 400h in a short while.

My question is: How to run the engine to check for oil leaks?

My methodology for oil filter changes is to pull the injection fuse to spin the engine with

new oil to get the pressure started (so as not to crank a dry engine if doing a cold drain)

fill the filter, then run the engine and check for leaks before final top off of the oil level.

The problem is that that the 400h has the tendency to just sit there with the engine off.

Is there a jumper setting or something to force the gas engine on?

/Steve

Well just my 2 cents worth is you are over thinking an oil change, I am sure the dealer doesn't do all that and considering that the engine components will still retain an oil film in the critical contact areas from the previous oil. Just change the filter and oil and fill to the designated amount per the manual and start the car. Pull out of the driveway and/or go around the block and pull back in and check for leaks. Pulling the injector fuse and cranking the engine over to build pressure and such is really not necessary the engines are not that sensitive today and the current oils (especially the synthetic blends) we are using today leave a film that will lubricate for several miles even if the crankcase is empty. so again IMHO stop sweating unnecessary details and just change the oil, run it and top it off after the test drive if you are a bit short. Error on the side of less is better as you dont want to overfill. Finally I just don't do a cold drain.

:whistles:

[BadBrad]

I'm still around but have been VERY busy with removal, refresh, and reinstallation of the major league power plant in my GS 455. Amusing the orders of magnitude in technology between these two vehicles.

Anyway...

I read Dave's response above and do totally agree with him that the K&N filter would make the easiest work of this all. But I don't mind the occasional challenge the filter wrench gives me a few times a year. And you get the filter for half the price if you dare venture into the pedestrian 'yota dealership

I still spill so little oil in the job its of no consequence. I'm an average size guy so I can get my medium size hand in and around to the filter, which I always remove the Helen Keller way; I never actually see it.

Don't need ramps to get to the drain. If you really need a little clearance just drive it up on a short 2x4.

I don't remove panels, and I only use a single pan.

I've got a big 'ole funnel that is kinda squishy that I can jam between things in the "engine" coverings and reach the filler hole. Can easily pour from the five gallon jug'o oil. I got that funnel from my local govt. utility dept. who wants me to recycle oil rather than pour it in the storm drain like some dunderheads might do. It actually jam-fits in the top of a new oil bottle and has about a 6 inch opening.

Just finished again last weekend - much harder to remember how to turn off that damn "Maint. Required" idiot light.

[Robl45]

I just did this today, it was not too bad. The bolt for the oil pan was stuck and pipe wrench finally solved that. The oil filter was a bit of a pain to get to but it was a normal screw on filter like every other car. I got it loose with my strap wrench and then just turned it by hand till it came out. I did use rhino ramps to make the job easier.

The biggest pain is the oil fill is down low so I managed to spill some oil.

[SOMEONE ELSE'S GOT MY NAME]

For $27 my dealer will change my oil and install my oil, filter and crush washer, Also dispose of old oil.

No need to Do it my self, for that price!

Heck, use the web! Google the word, "coupons". Firestone just had a $17 coupon that expired 4/1/08 ... but they'll be back. Took both our hybrids down, and got it done for that price. Every so often we've had charity groups come by and sell a Big 'O' coupons for (somewhere around) 10 oil changes at $150. That's another sweet deal. But yea, for those kinds of prices, who'd want to do it yourself. Of course be ready for them to use a fine tooth comb with inspections. Their hope is they'll find something else that they can recoup their loss on. Our prius has a plate over the hole where the starter moter would go in a regular ICE car. This starter moter plate has a sharp tab that could cut through a big cable near by. Firestone offered to fix it for a "small fee". I said "No thanks, I'll take care of it". Any wonder why I got the stinkeye? :P

[RX400h]

Most dealerships around here charge closer to $80 for an oil change. Besides, I don't trust the 18 year olds who end up changing the oil at some "other" shops. I'd much rather do it, myself; I feel better that way.