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Antilock Light


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Hey folks, driving along local last night, antilock light came on and stayed on. Weird thing was I could feel a wobble even without applying brakes after light came on. Turning off the car didnt help as the light reset itself.

So, I'm guessing a hanging caliper? After pulling in the garage, the only wheel well that smelled like burning brake pad (mild not smoking) was the drivers front. Is this thing smart enough to know when a caliper is starting to seize?

How do i read an antilock code if there is one.

I wonder if this is related to NC211 wobble issues as it did this quite a bit.

Thanks for any direction.

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One part of my wobble problem was due to cheap rotors that would not center correctly. If you had that problem, you would know it exactly, and it really makes the car shake. It sounds like to me that you do have a stuck piston, which might have worn down the pad to the point of flipping on the brake pad warning light. I'm not very familiar with the 90-94 warning lights though. I'm not sure if your warning light is "anti lock problem" or the pad indicator of "(o)" ? But either case, to me anyways, it does sound like a sticking piston. SKPerformance would be a GREAT guy to PM the question to. He will probably end up putting Midas out of business one day. B)

Hey folks, driving along local last night, antilock light came on and stayed on. Weird thing was I could feel a wobble even without applying brakes after light came on. Turning off the car didnt help as the light reset itself.

So, I'm guessing a hanging caliper? After pulling in the garage, the only wheel well that smelled like burning brake pad (mild not smoking) was the drivers front. Is this thing smart enough to know when a caliper is starting to seize?

How do i read an antilock code if there is one.

I wonder if this is related to NC211 wobble issues as it did this quite a bit.

Thanks for any direction.

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Update 1, changed drivers side front caliper and rotor yesterday. Light went out and stayed out for 30 miles. Then back on. Turned car off now light has been off for over 100 miles. I'm guessing the rt side pads are low or marginal?

I recently changed the front rt side bearing. I greased the inside of the access cap pretty good to finish job. Just a warning those access caps can leak, water in those bearings can be deadly. Maybe I got grease accross the antilock sensor???

Oh yeah, NC you were right that drivers side front caliper was starting to hang and going down-hill. Good call. If you ever thought of another career I'd hire you as my mechanic. What you say you did? Banking?

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Update 1, changed drivers side front caliper and rotor yesterday. Light went out and stayed out for 30 miles. Then back on. Turned car off now light has been off for over 100 miles. I'm guessing the rt side pads are low or marginal?

I recently changed the front rt side bearing. I greased the inside of the access cap pretty good to finish job. Just a warning those access caps can leak, water in those bearings can be deadly. Maybe I got grease accross the antilock sensor???

Oh yeah, NC you were right that drivers side front caliper was starting to hang and going down-hill. Good call. If you ever thought of another career I'd hire you as my mechanic. What you say you did? Banking?

If you changed 1 side you are going to have problems with the other side, When it comes to tires/brakes/suspension and alot of other items both sides need to be done at the same time. Why would you change just 1 side anyway ?

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Hey DC, I agree. was just trying to see what was causing the light. Will be changing the front pass side once it warms up. Baby its cold out tonight here in the northeast.

Alrighty then, Carry on. Keep us informed. :cheers:

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Ok, no progress today. too cold. light still off. I guess I'm asking were is wear sensors? Thats weird to write. This is not any wires other than the antilock sensor.

Max, there is a tiny wire with a black piece of plastic that is attached to the inside pad on the front of the car. Mine is just on the passenger side, front, inside, pad. When the pad wears down past this tiiny plastic piece attached to the pad, the rotor will grind off the plastic sensor which in turn will trip the system and give you that light. Look at the front struts, one of them has a wire, and this is your pad sensor wire. Usually right below where the uca connects to the wheel hub you will see a black connecter piece. This is where you reconnect the new sensor into the car's system. Once the sensor goes off, it's toast and needs to be replaced. I would figure they'd run about $20 +/-

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