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'out Gassing' On New Car Paint

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Hi all,

I have read this forum with interest and have a quick question for you paint guru's out there.

I am shortly due to pick up my brand new GS300 (in black) on March 1st. I am a bit of a detailing fanatic and have the usual armoury of Klasse AIO, Sealer Glaze, P21S, Porter Cable, Microfiber towels, Lambswool wash mit and more Sonus products than you can shake a stick at but my question is this.....

After picking up my new pride and joy how long would I have to wait (for paint out gassing maybe) before I can get to work and get some protection on my new baby? Since the car would have been painted a while ago (before it left the factory in Japan) and then had the journey over to the dealers is it safe to apply products straight away or should I give it 30 - 90 days? I've seen the thread about how long to wait on a newly painted car i.e a re-sprayed car but this is obviously not the same as a brand new manufactures paint finish.

I would like to get some Klasse and canuba on there as soon as possible as I'm paranoid about not using protection !! :P :P :P Sorry if this has been covered somewhere else but any help much appreciated..

Thanks guys - great forum

The Ed

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OEM water based paint is cured at high temperatures; sometimes as high as 300oF in multiple oven zones where the paint is baked with radiation and convection heat so that all the out gassing necessary has taken place and the vehicle’s paint can be waxed the moment it is rolled out of the manufacturing plant.

New cars go through the painting and baking process without any of the rubber, plastic, and cloth components installed. This is why they can expose the cars paint to such high temperatures these high temperatures and special paints used at the factory level ensure the paint is fully cured by the time the car leaves the assembly line.

PPG and Fallon Infrared developed a compact drying oven that uses infrared heating and convection to remove water and solvents from paint, while keeping the surface temperature below 150º F. It reduces the dehydration cycle from 11 minutes to 90 seconds or less. Paint finishing is a two stage process; (a) outgas- allowing the solvents to evaporate (B) cure- allowing the paint surface to harden, both of which are time related but the cure cycle can be done underneath a protective layer of polymer sealant, were as the outgas needs a product that will ‘ventilate’ while it protects the paint surface

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Thanks TOGWT...

So straight away then ?!

That means as soon as I get it home (a drive of around 45 miles) I can give it a gentle wash (to remove any muck I've picked up on the way home) and then start detailing with my SG topped with P21S!! Then straight into the garage so as not to spoil it !! :P :P :P

Hopefully since the paint finish will be flawless I will have a very good base to start on and I'm hoping the results will be awesome !!


The Ed

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  • 2 weeks later...

SW03ES brings up a good point. It sounds like you'll do a much better job than the dealer.


If you don't, you're likely to regret it, given the sloppy job that some dealerships do. They are likely to induce micro scratches and swirls. In fact, I'd contact them now to make very clear that you don't want the exterior touched when the truck arrives (other than removing that white wrap). On my next one, that's what I'll be telling them.

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