jzz30 Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 i recently had an overhaul done to my trans on my 1st gen LS (90) before the overhaul the trans would kick in to D and R. i didnt have the trans rebuilt cuz of this but the car just wouldnt move. anyway after the trans was done my friend who is the mechanic who did this told me that he had to order a few parts because some were brocken and so on, and among these parts was the throttle cable for the trans which varies line pressure in the trans. i asked him if this could cause harsh engaugement in to gears and he said possibly yes. because if its stuck at an open position that would cause more line pressure and harsh engaugement kind of like poping the clutch on a MT car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ko90ls Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 good stuff! i thought it was the diff, and still do because it is very intermitten. when i start the car an allow a warm-up, everything's fine. but when i rush the gear shifting the car may clunk! not as loud as before the new tranny but still shows up every now and then. to me just sounds like it's comming for deep in the back (diff). but i will take a look at the throttle cable! thanks for the heads-up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted February 6, 2006 Share Posted February 6, 2006 This is correct. From my understanding, there is a throttle cable that connects to the transmission that tells the transmission computer what the pressure should be. There is a tiny plastic piece on the transmission connection point that can break as well. My car was shifting hard into the gears when I first got it, and the dealership concluded that there was not enough slack in this cable, which was telling the transmission computer that I was applying more throttle force than I really was. So, they adjusted it with a tiny bit of slack, and it's never come back. i recently had an overhaul done to my trans on my 1st gen LS (90) before the overhaul the trans would kick in to D and R. i didnt have the trans rebuilt cuz of this but the car just wouldnt move. anyway after the trans was done my friend who is the mechanic who did this told me that he had to order a few parts because some were brocken and so on, and among these parts was the throttle cable for the trans which varies line pressure in the trans. i asked him if this could cause harsh engaugement in to gears and he said possibly yes. because if its stuck at an open position that would cause more line pressure and harsh engaugement kind of like poping the clutch on a MT car. The clunk maybe one of your two rear differential mount bushing being torn, usually the driver's side one gets torn. Or, in your drive shaft, like one of the two, but in your case, sounds like the rear, flex-coupling piece that connects the driveshaft to the differential. good stuff! i thought it was the diff, and still do because it is very intermitten. when i start the car an allow a warm-up, everything's fine. but when i rush the gear shifting the car may clunk! not as loud as before the new tranny but still shows up every now and then. to me just sounds like it's comming for deep in the back (diff). but i will take a look at the throttle cable! thanks for the heads-up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ko90ls Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 was thinking about doing a diff fluid change with amsoil 80w-90 syn, asap! do you think it would help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 I'm not sure.... I thought about, and posted up the question of synth or dino for the diff. fluid a few months ago. The verdict I got back was to use normal dino. This is strange, but very true. I recently cleaned the snot out of my throttle body. I used a dremel type tool with a wire brush head and cleaned the throttle butterfly plate, and was able to clean out the inside of the throttle body housing too. The car runs a lot smoother, but one of the things it did, and I kid you not, is that it smoothed out this lurch thing the car does. I can't explain why this would do that, other than computer related signals of actual throttle position, air flow, whatever. But honest to the big guy upstairs, it really helped out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ko90ls Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 But honest to the big guy upstairs, it really helped out. without Him my car wouldn't be rolling! don't know anout the syn/dino arguement. don't wanna start a long thread. but on another note i ws thinking that the best way to fully clean out that chamber so to perform the start of a starter replacement then use the tb cleaner or engine cleaner (input needed) to clean the chamber? what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nc211 Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 I sort of follow you.... From what I've heard from the other guys who have cleaned their throttle bodies, the carbon buildup is pretty tough to get off of the metal. I know Blake nearly wore his finger prints off when doing his. I also think www.lexls.com mentioned something about "be patient, it takes a while" to scrape off all of that stuff. Where the dremel tool comes in handy, is that with a wire brush attachment, it spins that crap right off of there, and it gives you the ability to stick the think inside of the throttle body housing and scrape that stuff off to. It's tough to get your hands inside of the housing. I used a craftsman all-in-one cutting tool with a 24 inch flex shaft attachment, which acted like a writing pen with the wire brush on it. As where I have heard that it takes several cans of cleaner, I only ended up using 1/2 of a can, and that was to wipe it clean. am I warm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ko90ls Posted February 7, 2006 Share Posted February 7, 2006 you are kinda warm but i think there's a little confusion... you are talking about the throttle body but i was talking about the "air intake chamber". not sure what yours looks like but it's the large "combustion chamber" type thing that the throttle body regulates. when i cleaned my throttle body i kinda tried to clean the opening but it was too small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ko90ls Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 this is what i meant http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...+intake+chamber found the answer too! gonna clean thiss too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRAND_LS 4 Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 This is correct. From my understanding, there is a throttle cable that connects to the transmission that tells the transmission computer what the pressure should be. There is a tiny plastic piece on the transmission connection point that can break as well. My car was shifting hard into the gears when I first got it, and the dealership concluded that there was not enough slack in this cable, which was telling the transmission computer that I was applying more throttle force than I really was. So, they adjusted it with a tiny bit of slack, and it's never come back. i recently had an overhaul done to my trans on my 1st gen LS (90) before the overhaul the trans would kick in to D and R. i didnt have the trans rebuilt cuz of this but the car just wouldnt move. anyway after the trans was done my friend who is the mechanic who did this told me that he had to order a few parts because some were brocken and so on, and among these parts was the throttle cable for the trans which varies line pressure in the trans. i asked him if this could cause harsh engaugement in to gears and he said possibly yes. because if its stuck at an open position that would cause more line pressure and harsh engaugement kind of like poping the clutch on a MT car. The clunk maybe one of your two rear differential mount bushing being torn, usually the driver's side one gets torn. Or, in your drive shaft, like one of the two, but in your case, sounds like the rear, flex-coupling piece that connects the driveshaft to the differential. good stuff! i thought it was the diff, and still do because it is very intermitten. when i start the car an allow a warm-up, everything's fine. but when i rush the gear shifting the car may clunk! not as loud as before the new tranny but still shows up every now and then. to me just sounds like it's comming for deep in the back (diff). but i will take a look at the throttle cable! thanks for the heads-up Where is this cable, and how can i adjust it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ko90ls Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 sorry my LS is a lot older than yours but this should give you a basic idea. there's instructions specific for adjusting the throttle cable, and shift cable. your may be similar? transmission_servicing_at.pdf Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ko90ls Posted February 11, 2006 Share Posted February 11, 2006 freshly adjusted throttle cable: about 20min and two 14mm wrenches! mine was at least 5+mm off. i'm gonna drive about 15mi to work today and see just how much improvement i gain! Good Luck! Jackpot! :D :D :D anyone with shift issues should try this first, be sure to check on your specific year though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRAND_LS 4 Posted February 12, 2006 Share Posted February 12, 2006 sorry my LS is a lot older than yours but this should give you a basic idea. there's instructions specific for adjusting the throttle cable, and shift cable. your may be similar? transmission_servicing_at.pdf Good luck Thanks man, I really apprciate your help. I will give it a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pachocco1 Posted February 13, 2006 Share Posted February 13, 2006 Here is the pdf for a 97. The first is on-vehicle-repair. The second is a full diagnostic algorithm. ovr.pdf preche.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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