sapper_daddy Posted January 6, 2006 Posted January 6, 2006 hey you guys are a great asset. i got everything ordered minus water pump (115 @ dealer but on back order) that and some plug wires and plugs and i'll be set. prolly go ahead and do accessory stuff too. but yeah i'm gonna do the seals at same time. Put a set of sumitumo tires on today! ride great of course i'm used to mud grips on my ford. but i don't hear any noise from them. actually there is this so tiny tiny tiny faint noise coming from under the dash. i'm gonna have someone drive me around tomorrow while i take it apart. so far i have gotten seat recline bar fixed telescoping motor new seat belt motor accressory lights sunroof glass tires repainted center caps timing belt tensioner wiper blades ordered: thermostat gasket o ring idler 1 and 2 fr crank seal cam seals ignition rotors soon to get: water pump plugs and wires pcv valve gas tank gasket i got two problems right now: please give me some ideas I have a shimmy problem only when i brake especially at high speeds! interstate etc. could this be the rotors? they don't have a bright luster like i am used to seeing more like a dingy color not polished at all, should i turn them? do i need to replace pads at same time? also my gas gauge kinda works if you give it about and hour to get to where it is supposed to be other than that it just sits there, any one got an idea on that one?! also the two vents going to the back seat in the console do not work. oh crap one other thing i am trying to get my phone hooked back up disconnected about a year ago! anyone got an idea on that one? i would like to use the original and have a small plan because of it's power and range! if there is anything you can comment on this say it please, even if it starts with "wow you are a dumb A$$"
KY350 Posted January 6, 2006 Posted January 6, 2006 Wow that is a big repair job. WRT brake shimmy, check you brake fluid level first. If this is ok, check the pads for wear / even wear. Check both sides of your rotors to ensure they are free of any brake dust deposits. This is common with cars that see high brake temps such as when on a race track. If there are any deposits, some very hard braking may knock them off. Alternatively, you could use some wet and dry to clear these spots. If you have a set of digital calipers, run some thickness measurements over different parts of the rotor and see if there is a big discrepancy in readings. If there is, then you may need to get the rotors skimmed at a good brake shop. Cannot help with the other items though. Best of luck. Michael
sapper_daddy Posted January 6, 2006 Author Posted January 6, 2006 hey thanks for the advice, i got a set of calipers just not digital ones to check it with, it'll just be slower. As far a s discrepancies what range can they vary to? Thanks for all the input man i never thought of wet sanding them that's great stuff.
blake918 Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 also my gas gauge kinda works if you give it about and hour to get to where it is supposed to be other than that it just sits there, any one got an idea on that one?! also the two vents going to the back seat in the console do not work. oh crap one other thing i am trying to get my phone hooked back up disconnected about a year ago! anyone got an idea on that one? i would like to use the original and have a small plan because of it's power and range! if there is anything you can comment on this say it please, even if it starts with "wow you are a dumb A$$" This might help with your gas needle so long as your mechanicals are in order although it sounds like there are some differences in the boards that are mentioned in that thread: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...22&hl=gas+gauge The phone is worthless. They are very old and work on analog service only (I can't argue with the power though). I tried extensively to find a carrier to activate the one that was in my ES300, but I never had any luck. I'd just get a carphone kit from your cell phone's manufacture. The Nokia kit I have in my LS is inexpensive and works very, very well. You can even get them to mute the stereo when a call comes thorugh. I'm curious about your small plan!! ;) I hope you have an impact wrench to get that crank shaft pulley off!! :D ;)
Threadcutter Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 The phone is worthless. They are very old and work on analog service only (I can't argue with the power though). I tried extensively to find a carrier to activate the one that was in my ES300, but I never had any luck. I'd just get a carphone kit from your cell phone's manufacture. The Nokia kit I have in my LS is inexpensive and works very, very well. You can even get them to mute the stereo when a call comes thorugh. I'm curious about your small plan!! ;) I hope you have an impact wrench to get that crank shaft pulley off!! :D ;) I hope you have an impact wrench to get that crank shaft pulley off!! As is illustrated on Lexls's site (I think), a 1/2" breaker bar with socket against the frame, & turning over of the ignition for a VERY SHORT time. BTW, motor rotates CW when viewed from the front (Place breaker bar accordingly). It's sorta nasty, but it works good. You might want to consider a little heat on the crankbolt, just in case some knucklehead was in there & Loc-Tited the crank bolt. Not too much though, remember, there's a crank seal that doesn't like too much heat. You don't want to have problems with the crankbolt (like rounded head or snapped off) or you might as well replace the engine for what the crank is probably worth.
alsalih Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 Come on guys let's recommend the "proper" way to break the crank bolt loose. Although many have resorted to using the starter to help break it loose it just doesn't seem right. The best way to do this is to remove the fly wheel access cover (small access cover between engine to transmission interface), insert a wooden or plastic screwdriver handle (or anything non metallic) into one of the fly wheel holes to keep it from turning and then simply loosen the bolt with a good size breaker (I use a 3/4" breaker bar with pipe attached at the end instead of 1/2" breaker). This will work on just about any vehicle you have.
Threadcutter Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 Come on guys let's recommend the "proper" way to break the crank bolt loose. Although many have resorted to using the starter to help break it loose it just doesn't seem right. The best way to do this is to remove the fly wheel access cover (small access cover between engine to transmission interface), insert a wooden or plastic screwdriver handle (or anything non metallic) into one of the fly wheel holes to keep it from turning and then simply loosen the bolt with a good size breaker (I use a 3/4" breaker bar with pipe attached at the end instead of 1/2" breaker). This will work on just about any vehicle you have. alsalih: You'll get no disagreement from me about your method......... My point is that you probably won't get the bolt loose with an impact wrench due to the fact that the bolt is factory torqued to 181 foot pounds. Provided a person can successfully keep the flywheel from turning (or shearing the wood or plastic screwdriver off), then that is definitely better. When I broke mine loose with the starter, I was "gritting" my teeth. I didn't like doing it that way, but it boiled down to a practical matter. Thanks for the Tip.
blake918 Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 My point is that you probably won't get the bolt loose with an impact wrench due to the fact that the bolt is factory torqued to 181 foot pounds. Provided a person can successfully keep the flywheel from turning (or shearing the wood or plastic screwdriver off), then that is definitely better. My impact wrench worked just fine to get my crank pulley off. Literally, it took 2 seconds, and there's no probably about my comments since I've tried it and it worked beautifully. Alsalih, you're not recommending the proper method either. The proper (as in what's stated in the Lexus repair manual) way is to use SST numbers: 09213-54015 and 09330-00021.
KY350 Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 hey thanks for the advice, i got a set of calipers just not digital ones to check it with, it'll just be slower. As far a s discrepancies what range can they vary to? Thanks for all the input man i never thought of wet sanding them that's great stuff. Analogue calipers are fine. I replaced the front rotors on my other car and while at the mechanics shop, I measured the rotor thickness at various parts. My measurements were almost always 22.4mm and I got the odd 22.5mm measurement. So a 0.1mm (??? inches) I could not notice any problems through the brake pedal. If the difference was 0.3mm or greater then I'd consider skimming the rotor to obtain a consistant width. BTW, does anyone know what the width is of a new 91 LS400 rotor is and also what thickness the rotor is considered out of spec?
falciott Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 The phone is worthless. They are very old and work on analog service only (I can't argue with the power though). I tried extensively to find a carrier to activate the one that was in my ES300, but I never had any luck. I'd just get a carphone kit from your cell phone's manufacture. The Nokia kit I have in my LS is inexpensive and works very, very well. You can even get them to mute the stereo when a call comes thorugh. I'm curious about your small plan!! ;) I hope you have an impact wrench to get that crank shaft pulley off!! :D ;) Blake, do you know if the phone kit would be able to mute the radio on a 1990 Nakamichi LS as well? Or does it have to come with some factory installed option already? Thanx
blake918 Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 Falciott, you can mute the stereo in your '90; Jim (1990LS00) can give the specifics to you since he had his old '90 setup to do so. ;)
sha4000 Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 My point is that you probably won't get the bolt loose with an impact wrench due to the fact that the bolt is factory torqued to 181 foot pounds. Provided a person can successfully keep the flywheel from turning (or shearing the wood or plastic screwdriver off), then that is definitely better. My impact wrench worked just fine to get my crank pulley off. Literally, it took 2 seconds, and there's no probably about my comments since I've tried it and it worked beautifully. Alsalih, you're not recommending the proper method either. The proper (as in what's stated in the Lexus repair manual) way is to use SST numbers: 09213-54015 and 09330-00021. like anyone really uses any SSTs, i broke mine with the breaker bar with no problems
blake918 Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 like anyone really uses any SSTs, i broke mine with the breaker bar with no problems You're right. I was just making a point since I'm getting ostracized for suggesting a supposed improper method when any method but the one including the SSTs is improper. ;)
falciott Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 Falciott, you can mute the stereo in your '90; Jim (1990LS00) can give the specifics to you since he had his old '90 setup to do so. ;) Thanx Blake, I shall send a pm to "1990LS" then.. that's if I can. I'd love to bring up my old LS up to most of the newer technological wonders
blake918 Posted January 7, 2006 Posted January 7, 2006 I'd guess that the mute will look a lot like the method that Jim devised for the second generation cars since all LSs are prewired for the car phone (I think?). This is what I have in my '95; all it is attaching the mute wire to the mutte pin in the harness for the Lexus phone:
sapper_daddy Posted January 8, 2006 Author Posted January 8, 2006 when i woke up this morning and re soldered the two capacitors for the gas gauge fix that worked great! thanks for more input everyone, by the way anyone who is afraid to solder the new capacitors, in let me tell you it' s worth it, and very satisfying waiting on more parts before i can continue much further. i'll keep up dating as more gets done.
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