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Posted

4) Pull the brake booster hose off & put your finger over the end so the car doesn't lean out & stall.

Seafoam-1.jpg

Toysrme,

i have a 98 es300 and in comparison with your picture and the haynes manual my IAC doesnt have a brake booster line connected to it, its covered by a cap screw. can i just pull the hose directly from the brake booster to induce the seafoam and not cause any harm to it?

thanks

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Posted

Just go to the brake booster & pull that end of the hose off. One end of the hose is the same as another.

Slooooooow in my experiance, the amount of carbon doesn't really equate to how much smoke there is. I haven't really figured it out. Sometimes you get alot, sometimes you don't. If you haven't yet, do it again. :) Then let us know if the throttle responce is any better?

Posted

I know after 2 "treatments" I looked inside the intake via TB; still 90% dirty. Going to try some deep creep and let soak. Then run for about 15 minutes and drain oil.

Posted

Exactly. Nothing you suck through the intake is really going to clean the intake. The purpose is to clean the valve area in the heads, and combustion cahmbers (Some 2- 2 1/2 feet of intake track away - that's along way.)

Posted
Exactly. Nothing you suck through the intake is really going to clean the intake. The purpose is to clean the valve area in the heads, and combustion cahmbers (Some 2- 2 1/2 feet of intake track away - that's along way.)

I hope and maybe think Deepcreep (sprayed onto inner surface) will do better?

Posted

Heys guy did my first seafoam treatment today and what a difference on throttle pick-up, now when I hit the gas pedal the car has more pick-up. I also put some seafoam in my gas tank and hope that helps as well. But so far Seafoam looks like a very good product that I can recommend to any automobile owner, PERIOD!

Posted

In my experiance not really. The problem you run into is that the carbon get's baked on so long it doesn't just need a degreaser/solvent, it needs a scrubbing.

Posted

In my experiance not really. The problem you run into is that the carbon get's baked on so long it doesn't just need a degreaser/solvent, it needs a scrubbing.

Im going to change my oil tomorrow should put in a whole bottle before I change the oil?

Posted

In the oil? I wouldn't. Follow the directions. It says on the bottle how much 1 pint treats. (I think 8-10 gallons. So you would want 1 cup for our oil) That's how I remember it, but look on your bottle.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I haven't done the suck up through brake booster yet, but since gas is so high here in south louisiana, I use 1 pint of seafoam every 3rd tank, ruffly 1 once a month since I am using cheap gas, my milage has improved, and acceleration is much better, I plan on pulling the booster line next weekend, and also cleaning the intake with deep creep.

I want to do the Seafoam tranny stuff is it safe just to add it and roll out or do you have to change the fluid afterwards..

Posted

I did the Seafoam-through-the-boost a week ago or so. I did notice some performance gain, but then I had to refuel today, and was totally shocked when I averaged just under 15 mpg city that made my previous 18 mpg look pretty damn good!

Just wondering if that's normal/expectable/gonna go soon?

Posted

I haven't done the suck up through brake booster yet, but since gas is so high here in south louisiana, I use 1 pint of seafoam every 3rd tank, ruffly 1 once a month since I am using cheap gas, my milage has improved, and acceleration is much better, I plan on pulling the booster line next weekend, and also cleaning the intake with deep creep.

I want to do the Seafoam tranny stuff is it safe just to add it and roll out or do you have to change the fluid afterwards..

I did the seafoam treatment.Once in the oil and twice in the fuel.before the treatment engine would stay at high rpm on cold startup for at least 3 to 4 min and car was sluggish.Just took a trip from tampa to tennesee. Roundtrip was about 1800 mi.Got 29.4 mpg acceleration was great.Thanks toys for putting me on to it. 99 es 300 70,000 mi

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have read all three pages of this thread..and I have bought my 2 cans. I will try and figure out how to take off UIM today and finally change back three plugs...I'm gooing to try and attempt sending it through brakeline hoping the car starts when Im done waiting. ...

....I think the consensus is that it wont hurt o2 sensor or plugs but wait till you are near oil change to do it to avoid having dirt run in engine for 3k + miles.

Posted
okay read all three pages of this thread...have had my 2 cans sitting in garage for week...taking off UIM today and finish changing back three spark plugs will add clean out manifold and add to gass...plugs are brand new but its seems like yall ay it wont affect plugs so Im gonna attempt sending it through brakeline...i think the consensus is that it wont hurt o2 sensor or plugs but wait till you are near oil change to do it to avoid having dirt run in engine for 3k + miles...thats the only reaon that would make me wait considering i did oil change just last week...

I think you would be fine. Anything that gets in the oil will burn off or be filtered. PLus it is only 3K miles.


  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

In any case, you don't have to use it in your oil, tho it's a great idea. Be it Seafoam, Kerosene, or a light weight oil. I've been looking into the crevasses of my '93 3vz-fe for a good while now. Tho no passages had any build-up. Some walls had more gunk on them than I like to see, but otherwise great condition. If I had a later engine I'd be all over oil cleaning. Again, tho I don't think there is any critical underlying problem with the 97-02 1mz-fe's - I would still find a way to average cleaning the system a few times over a few years just to make sure no damage is incurred from build-up.

Tho I'll outright say Seafoam will clean combustion chamber & the like as good as anything else - if not better than the majority. It seems to clean the fuel system well. It also seems to cleans everywhere oil goes as well as anything else you can grab.

If you're so worried, spend your $50-$100 on Auto-RX kits that take months to complete. Otherwise I'll take 2* $5 cans of Seafoam you can do in 20 min whenever you want & have better, or in the worse case the same results.

When you get down to the bottom of it you have to do something with both carbon build-up & at least a semi-regular basis for fuel cleaning.

Oil for many engines falls under doing anything is better than the *BLEEP* that eventually ubilds up in them.

The problem with both carbon build-up & the oil system is that many of these engines build-up stuff at a much higher rate than many people normally account for.

It goes back to the old man & the rifle. The rifle stays in the kitchen & he shoots it every day, but never tears it apart to clean it. Yet the rifle is in immaculate mechanical condition! That's because every time he walks back inside with the gun he takes his cleaning rod & makes a single pass down the barrel.

It's only 90% the same as out right cleaning it, but it's far more than good enough.

Well Toysrme, I think you are correct. After 4 months on using Auto-Rx in two sperate cars, it did not clean as well as the inventer states or "pimps" [as you would say]. No increase in MPG's, no extra power, no smoother engines blah blah........

I also tried an LC20 flush on both cars AFTER the rise. My car did nothing new; but, wifes car it helped flush more crap out. I will have pix tonight on my webpage.

Now I must say the inventer Frank Millers is really out there. I wanted to know 5 questions and to this day he avoids it like the Asian flu and got really mad at me for asking. Either my two engines are REALLY clean or his product does not work as the "high-n-almighty".

Here is my chessy page. http://home.comcast.net/~sump/My_auto_RX.html

In the end I would PIMP LC20 more since I set up a little thing with Dyson analysis. I am going to use dino (yes folks dino) and LC20 and he feels that this should work the same as Amsoil but for less. See what happens.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

This is a 1996 5s-fe Toyota Camry with 114,000 miles. This is after ONE treatement done in the manner I outlined in my previous post. (I.E. following the directions on the can) On old oil right before changing it.

This engine spent about the first 100,000 miles of it's life running cheapy oils. The last 14,000 miles run on synthetic.

Seafoam5sfe-1.jpg

Seafoam5sfe-3.jpg

Seafoam5sfe-2.jpg

Seafoam5sfe-4.jpg

$5 a can - $2.50 of the product used = Results.

Posted

No it doesn't! Atleast it's 1/2 way there.

How often do you recommend doing a seafoam treatment to oil? Every change?

In first post you said "Pour the other 1/2 in with fresh engine oil."

Then I understood you to say "This is after ONE treatement done in the manner I outlined in my previous post. (I.E. following the directions on the can) On old oil right before changing it."

So I am a little confused.

how about through brake booster line?

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted

First off, I am new here. Secondly, I just picked up a 93 Sc300. I got in a car accident with my 2002 Honda Accord Coupe, so my father gave me his 4 speed SC with 79,XXX original miles on in. I know, I am a lucky *BLEEP*.

Anyways, I just got back from Napa and picked up a can of seafoam. It's sitting right now, I am going to crank it in about 5 minutes. Well, bump for seafoam :cheers: , this stuff is amazing, I used it in my Honda all of the time. I'll record some video of the startup. I am only putting it through the brake booster for now, it is pretty much pointless in gas, and I'm hesitant to add it the the crank.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Sea Foam costs $6.99 at my local Southern California AutoZone. I guess prices have gone up since this thread started.

I just put 1/3 through my '93 GS300's brake booster line today. The idle while in PARK has definitely gotten smoother. Prior to Sea Foaming it, the idle would "shudder" with a regular rhythm and tach needle would quiver slightly. The idle while stopped in DRIVE feels the same (smooth).

As for acceleration power, I did not notice any improvement.

I spent just under $15 for 2 cans and will use the rest for the fuel tank and crank (right before I change oil).

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