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Brake Replaement


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I was hoping to get your opinion on what kind of brakes I should get. I need all rotors and brakes replaced. I went to a trusted shop and and they told me that it would be better to use cheaper aftermarket rotors with O.E.M. pads. It seems to make sense. He also tried to get me ceramic pads, which he says are cheaper and they won't squeal. My main priority is that my car stops well and doesn't squeal when I apply the brakes....that drives me crazy. Any advice about how to go about this would be greatly appreciated.

-Thanks

'97 ES300 93,000

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I had my brakes replaced and I am not too happy with the results. They make more squealing noise than the brakes that had been on the car prior to my ownership. I am not sure if they are cheap brakes, or what. All I know is that they are too loud for my liking, especially when it is humid or rainy.

I have heard from several friends (who happen to be mechanics) that as your car ages, brake squeaking is somewhat inevitable, even if they're new brakes. Someone correct me if this is false.

I initially had semi-metallic put on the front and organic on the back. There was a ton of brake dust being produced on the front wheels and a lot of squeaking, so I told them to replace the fronts with ceramics. They did so and the squealing got a little better and the brake dust was eliminated. I have heard, however, that ceramic brakes don't last as long and that they get hotter than semi-metallics.

Try searching the forums for "brakes" and you will likely get a ton of stuff. I know that I had a similar posting to this one about a year ago, so that should be on there. The members here gave me a lot of helpful advice on it.

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Brake squealing is not indecitive of system age. It's either the piston to shim, shim to brake pad back, or brake pad face to rotor.

jakemj8402

Akebone ProACT pads are the OEM pads.

Either do them, or Hawk HPS pads. HPS's are the greatest pad every made for street / race use.

Either buy some generic rotor, or buy some Brembo blanks.

Just make sure whatever you buy is not a drilled rotor & you're !Removed! yourself on pad life with sloted rotors without gaining anything from them. (Less you actually do more than a few laps 100% at a real road racing facility)

FLUSH (not bleed) the brake fluid with fresh dot3 (if you're cheap), or dot 4 fluid every 3 years.

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I was hoping to get your opinion on what kind of brakes I should get.  I need all rotors and brakes replaced.  I went to a trusted shop and and they told me that it would be better to use cheaper aftermarket rotors with O.E.M. pads.  It seems to make sense.  He also tried to get me ceramic pads, which he says are cheaper and they won't squeal.  My main priority is that my car stops well and doesn't squeal when I apply the brakes....that drives me crazy.  Any advice about how to go about this would be greatly appreciated.

-Thanks

'97 ES300 93,000

Persoanlly I would just buy OEM pads (Front and rear) for like $73 +/- $3 and call it a day.

The rotors is a toss up since my last set of Brembo's (another auto I owned) warped after about 2,000 miles and into the trash they went. I think the Brembo's were like $45 each or OEM like $75 each. then again you could also turn the rotors if they are within limits.

But why do you need new rotors only after 93,000 miles?

As Toysrme stated do the flush of brake fluid. I do it every year if I can, if not; every 2. I also only use 3 on cars and 4 on my bike. Since I get the DOT 3 in 32 oz and never can find DOT 4 that big; only 8 oz bottles.

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