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94 Es-300 Runs Fine Then Dies...


tch2123

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This has been a real head scratcher. My '94 ES-300's check engine light came on and the engine started cutting out a while back. It would intermittently start and run for anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes. Diagnostics indicate an ignitor problem. I replaced the ignitor and cleared the codes. The car ran fine for 15 minutes or so. The check engine light came back on, but the car ran fine for a couple of weeks. It started cutting out intermittently again at that point. Diagnostics again show the ignitor. I replaced it a second time and had a similar result.

After talking with a few others and looking at the electrical diagrams, we ended up replacing the ignition switch, clearing the codes, etc. The car again ran fine for a couple of weeks after the check engine light came on.

Has anyone seen anything like this before.

Thanks for any input you may have.

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My thoughts is no matter what the problem is with 1 ignitor it will never cause the engein to cut off just stumble and idle badly.

It may work on even 3 but will run for sure with only 1 cylinder dead.

I wouldn;t have changed a ignitor before moving it to another bank and plug to make sure it was faulty.

What exact code do they get?

When the car dies does it slowly stumble down in rpms or just cuts right off?

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I had a similar problem in an older car, and it turned out to be water in the gas. After dumping out this bad tankful all my problems went away. Just a thought. :)

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Werd SK is right, the v6's will crank & run off any 3 cylinders. You can move the car down a driveway on 4 & drive it on 5.

Replacing the ignitor was a huge waste of money & the ignition switch was a money grabbing play by whoever the mechanic was. (Really they both were if the mechanic has a brain.)

Basically, whoever you're dealing with is either a huge moron, out to get your money, or too busy to not be an idiot. In any case, don't ever go back...

You don't replace components because the ECU says something is faulty. You test them, related components & every other possible cause for the problem before you go replacing parts.

Check for:

stuck/clogged/dirty IAC valve & EGR valve.

post MAF vacuum leaks

front bank plugs & spark plug wires (because they're easy to take out)

Check for the nearly impossible chance a Toyota fuel filter has clogged - You're around the amount of time to change it for the first time. hahahahahahaha Beware of knuckles, it's a total pain in the !Removed!!

Anywho, now that we've established your mechanic (or parts counter guy)should never be delt with again...

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  • 2 years later...

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