Jump to content


92 Es300 Rear Strut Replacement


flippu10

Recommended Posts

Can someone give me some insights on this mystery. I recently replaced the rear struts on my 92es300 using a fairly detailed description of the process in one of the threads here, I believ e from SpeedRacer959. Everything went as okay, just as described. I tightened all the bolts as much as I can, especially the 2 main bolts that hold the strut to the axle. I also tightened the 3 nuts that hold the strut mount to the body from inside the car. The one nut that holds the strut to the mount, I also tightened when I put the strut, spring and mount together. I re-tightened it after the strut mount nuts were tightene. So everything is cool.

But, when test driving the car, there are certain bumps that cause a rattle coming from the top (strut mount) that seems slight on small bumps but louder, slapping sound of metal to metal on bigger bumps. I rechecked all bolts and nuts again and everything remains real tight.

I asked my wife to drive the car while I sit in the back (without the seat still) so I can try to identify the location of the rattle. It appears that the rattle is coming from the center nut that holds the strut to the strut mount. The nut itself is on it pretty tight but the entire strut is moving up and down while going over bumps. It looks like the strut mount itself has some kind of rubber inside that serves as a cushion and causing something inside the mount to hit metal to metal. Is this how the strut mount supposed to work or did I put it on wrong.

I would hate to take it all apart again. Need some advice. Anyone had some experience on this. I would really appreciate some help. Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


If the center nut is coming up then you have a problem.

Either it is loose?

Or one of the rubber bushings is missing and you need to take it back out again.

SK, Thanks for the response. There was no bushing in the strut that I took out nor the new strut that I bought. From what I took out, there was only a strut, spring, 2 rubber isolator (top and bottom), boot and the mount. I reused the isolators and spring. I replaced everything else.

I re-looked at the center nut again and it is on pretty tight. It moves just a slight bit up and down cause it's mounted on a rubber bushing inside the mount. I believe this is how it's supposed to work. While it's moving, it's also making some clicking noise, but only on some bumps.

I realized that when I took the seats out, there is a piece of sound insulation (a foam type material) the size of a brick that fits directly over the center nut and the mount. I put them back on and they seem to completely eliminate the noise. I'll put the seat back and see if insulates the rest of the vibration and tire noise.

I think that will do the trick. I'll let you know. Thanks for the response though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are so going to destroy the stuts by letting them bang around.

Either the bolt will get streched or the stud will bend.

There is supposed to be a rubber bump stop on the shock rods ,is that on there?

Take it to a pro to get fixed from now on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are so going to destroy the stuts by letting them bang around.

Either the bolt will get streched or the stud will bend.

There is supposed to be a rubber bump stop on the shock rods ,is that on there?

Take it to a pro to get fixed from now on.

Okay, I took the strut out to examine if I put it together right and not missed a part. Everything looks exactly how they should all fit together - strut, spring, mount. Put it back in, tightened all nuts and bolts. Still rattled a little bit. The center nut isn't moving up and down though. I suspected that I could not torque the 2 main bolts enough to keep it from moving and causing the rattle. From inside the car, the rattle sounds like it's coming from the center nut.

I took it to the shop and have them torque the bolts down to spec (around 180 ft/lbs). They use an impact wrench with the right torque setting. I could not have generated this much torque using a breaker bar and working within the wheel well (no leverage). The result - all is well. The rattle is gone.

Thanks for taking the time and responding. I appreciate your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership


  • Unread Content
  • Members Gallery