SC300RIDE Posted August 12, 2002 Posted August 12, 2002 all i want to do is swap the stock 10"sub ( pioneer) with a better, stronger sounding sub without adding an external amp. any suggestions? by the way, what is the power output of the pioneer system in the 92 sc300?thanks. 8)
lexus28160 Posted September 19, 2002 Posted September 19, 2002 check out what eclipse has to offer. out of all the choices that is mine. don't know the power output of your head unit though. call lexus customer service and they can tell you.
kuruma Posted January 29, 2003 Posted January 29, 2003 MA audio but you'd need an amp. When nI get mine I'm going to try for all MA Audio and run two amps to get them all powered up 8) by the way why not get the extra amp? It's not that hard to hide if you don't want it seen.
AG Expert Posted February 28, 2003 Posted February 28, 2003 If you would like a better sounding subwoofer, I'd recommend getting another external amplifier. Thus, you will have more options to work with. It depends on what your goals are for a system as well. Are you looking for SQ (clearness), SPL (loudness), or SQL (mix of both)?
income247 Posted March 27, 2003 Posted March 27, 2003 Has anyone actually done this? I am swapping out the sub this weekend and as of yet can't seem to get the grill cover off the rear deck without breaking it. Got the front two clips but the rear is fastened down some how and I can't get a vantage point on it. Can anyone help me on how to get this sub out?
acthegiant Posted March 29, 2003 Posted March 29, 2003 after you pop the front loose, pull forward. On the 2001, the rear has clips that slide in and the front pops down. I would imagine yours would be the same. Good luck... PS, I tried one of the Infinity 10s suitable for free air use with a separate amplifier. Sounds like crap as a free air. I built a .6 cu ft enclosure that mounted directly underneath and it sounds much better. Minimal intrusion into the trunk space. Some folks take out the whole rear section or even the trunk. I still have to carry crap in the trunk...
income247 Posted March 31, 2003 Posted March 31, 2003 Thanx acthegiant ~ I agree that free air usually sounds like crap however I to have to keep my trunk space. Did you make your encloser out of wood? I got my sub in over the weekend. Had to use a cut off wheel to flatten out the basket to make it fit. The stock woofer flattens out to the front. Don't know how it sounds yet cause my time was limited and will be putting the amp to it this weekend. The 96 gs300 subwoofer grill has 6 mounts all of which are pop rivets and have to be pulled straight up. Talk about overkill. Being an arizona car naturally the heat has got to it over the years and the back rivets cracked. No biggie, gotta love that super glue. What did you make your encloser out of?
acthegiant Posted April 2, 2003 Posted April 2, 2003 Built the enclosure from 5/8" thick mdf, or particle board. .6 cu ft. The overall depth was about the same as the sub from before, but extended across one side. Picture a rectangular box with the speaker toward one end, sticking down about 6 inches or so from the deck. I can still slide a suitcase underneath, but not much more than that .
bigg Posted July 1, 2003 Posted July 1, 2003 I've installed free-air subs in the Lexuses before and they sound awesome, usually better than putting huge boxes in the trunk. The problem is people don't know what they are doing, and most companies make low end free-air subs that suck, rather than high end ones. We actually did a lot of replacing back yard/Best Buy installed boom boxes with free-air setup at the shop I worked at. I recommend the SoundStream Exact subs for free air, because they are one of the best subs on the market, and they happen to work free-air as well. They are made for sound quality, but will handle a good amount of power. Free-air setups are great because they take up almost no trunk space, add little weight to the car, and play very linearly. But most installers don't take the time to do it right. Think of the trunk as your box, make sure to minimize the excess leaks, especially the ones between the cabin and the trunk. Use dynamat, or some other brand's product, over the entire rear deck, and also on the underside over the seam between your wooden baffle and the rear deck, as a membrane to seal the air leaks. DO NOT CUT OUT EVERY SINGLE HOLE IN THE SHEET METAL OUT OF THE DYNAMAT, THIS DEFEATS THE PURPOSE, ONLY CUT WHAT IS NECESSARY. If your installer does this, take it as a sign that he has no clue. This goes for where ever you use Dynamat/sound-deadening throughout the car.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now