Diy Rx330 Oil And Filter Change

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use a ph3600, its a longer filter and can be accessed from the top of the engine, saves time taking off the lower panels.

My RX330 has no panels under it :o

BTW I wanted to share my experience removing the oil filter first time after buying a used RX330. Last bone head who changed the oil filter must have used wrench to tighten it. As a result it was stuck tight and would not come off with my trusty band wrench. I spent good 3 hours with different tools, WD40, different oil filter removal wrenches, etc. Finally what worked is a gator-grip like oil filter pliers from Autozone. The oil filter was crushed to death by the time it came out. I wanted to avoid "punch a long screw driver through" trick because of lack of clearance on this car. Hope this experience will help someone.

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jut suggestion:I remove the oil filter by reach my hand down from front of the engine, just another option,not have to remove the panel for the oil filter.only remove the panel for the drain plug.

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Excellent instructions. I used these to change oil in my RX 400h. For some reason the RX400h does not have a protective cover over the oil pan drain bolt just the one that covers the filter per your pictures.

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Hello Everyone~

I'm new to the forum and own an '08 RX 350. The original post with pics is great, but I noticed that there were several questions regarding the canister style oil filter (which my vehicle also has). I thought I would give it the 'ol college try and post an oil change with the canister style oil filter. So without further delay...

1: Of course you need to purchase your supplies.

- 7 quarts of oil (my vehicle's capacity is 6.4 quarts. Yours may be different so check your owners manual)

I went with conventional oil this time (Castrol GTX), but after doing some research, I'm switching to full-synthetic on the next oil change.


- An oil filter (I went with the Fram Tough Guard #TG9972) courtesy of Wally World. Again, yours may be different so check with your parts department.

The filter came with the needed replacement o-rings and a drain adapter for the initial canister drain (more about that later).


2: Lift the front end of the vehicle. Some of you may be small enough to work on it without having to do so, but I'm am not one of those people.

3: Approaching from the front you will see a small plastic cover panel just to the passengers side of center (I cleaned it so it appears darker in the pic).


4: Remove the two 10mm bolts at the rear of the panel and then remove it (it should just drop down). You should now be able to see the oil canister.


5: Now would be a good time to drain the oil. Remove the oil filler cap in the engine compartment and then with a 14mm wrench, remove the oil pan drain plug

under the vehicle. The oil pan is just to the rear of the oil canister and there is no plastic panel to remove. Also, be sure to have a large oil collection

container (I would recommend at least a 9 quart size).

6: After the oil has completely drained, it is time to drain the oil canister (or so I thought). There is a small round plate on the bottom of the canister

that has to be removed first. It is designed to be removed with a 3/8" drive (square hole).


Then the drain adapter that came with the oil filter is installed and the the oil drains from the canister (before ever having to remove the canister from its attachment to the vehicle).


This makes for a very clean oil change, but....whoever did the last oil change (Lexus technician) tightened the plate so much that when I went to remove it,


The whole canister (plate and all) came off and all of the oil in the canister came pouring out.



Luckily, I had my trusty oil collection container underneath the work area, so clean up

was not as bad as it could have been.

7: If your plate did not come off of the canister, you will need to remove it now (there is an o-ring underneath it that needs to be replaced).


Clean any old oil off of the canister and install the new o-ring (the smaller of the two). I always like to apply a thin film of fresh motor oil

to the o-ring before installing and tightening the plate in order to reduce the possibility of damaging the rubber.

8: Next you will need to replace the main o-ring (the larger of the two). Again, I recommend applying a thin film of fresh motor oil.


9: Install the new filter cartridge


10: Attach the canister to your vehicle and tighten to specs, then install the plastic cover panel with the two 10mm bolts

(be sure to get the two plastic "tongues" at the front of the panel into their respective slots).

11: Install the oil pan drain plug and tighten to specs and you are finished with the bottom work (EXCEPT for a visual inspection after adding the oil)

12: Add your oil (again check your owners manual for quantity and grade of oil)

13: And finally tighten down your oil filler cap.

14: I don't know if every RX has the capability to reset the service interval computer, but mine does. If your vehicle has this option, the instructions

for doing so can be found in your owners manual.

Of course you will need to check your levels and be certain that nothing is leaking underneath, but you have now changed your oil. Sorry for the length of

this post, but I was informed (by the girlfriend) that there might be some people out there who have never checked their own oil let alone changed it. In any

case, I hope someone out there finds it useful.


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How do you remove the unscrew the oil filter assembly?

I tried to look for right cap ranch however I could not seem to find the

right size for RX350.


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Hi, love the pictures and your post..thank-you, for the well detailed help. :)

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Just got done changing the oil in the o'ladys RX 350 all the info on here and pic's were a great help! Thanks Again, Jerry

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Thanks to the OP - Great DIY - Just did my '05 RX330 and it was exactly as described. The only difference was that I was full @ 4.5 Quarts.

I love working on well designed cars.

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I got the torque specs for the drain plug. Torque the drain plug to 33ft-lbs (45Nm, 459 kgf-cm)

what does this mean, I guess in the simplest terms

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On 12/27/2005 at 11:15 AM, docfnky said:

To reset that light, take your keys out of the ignition, push down on the button that select between odometer and trip meter on the dashboard. while the button is still held down, put the key in the ignition and turn it to on (do not start the car). after that maintenance light turn off, you can let go of the button.

Correct but I tried and was getting very frustrated then found out there was another step first here's what I found 

  • Turn the ignition switch to the “On” position, but do not start the engine
    If your car has START push-button , press the “Start” without touching the brake pedal.
  • Press the odometer button until you see “ODO” (for 2004-2010 models) or “TRIP A” (for 2011-2015 models)

Reset oil light toyota odo trip a

  • Next, turn the ignition “off”
  • Press and hold the Trip Odometer Reset button, and turn the ignition switch to the “On” position
    If your car has START push-button , press the “Start” twice without touching the brake pedal.
  • Continue to hold down the Trip Odometer Reset button until “000000” MILES appears on the display and the maintenance light turns off.

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On 8/17/2012 at 2:21 PM, l3m0naida said:

what does this mean, I guess in the simplest terms

It means when putting drain plug back on use a torque wrench and set it to 33ft lbs and tighten till the wrench starts clicking and then it is tighten the right amount not to to tight and not to loose

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