Icemaninlv Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 Ok 1993 ES300 225000 miles.changed plugs, wires cap and rotor. New hose to the AFM. New injectors and regulater. All new vaccum hoses. Had new intake gaskets and both intakes cleaned. New ignitor and coil. Problem is when started and placed in gear you hit the gas and vechile does nothing. Put it in N and it rev's fine, back to D and it goes but barely you have to floor. the car putts around and the power is not there. Some white smoke coming out of pipes but smells like gas. This happens all the time but rarely it runs like it is meant to. but within10 mins, it back to running crappy. When it runs good no white smoke. The only parts hav not changed are timing belt (which is next), computer and distrubitor. Any help will work. I am a jet mechanic and am capable of working on toyotas/lexus. Thanks, Mike. I have read all the searched topics but all solutions have failed.
SKperformance Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 sounds like a bad injector did you clean the cold start one in the manifold also? did you clean the maf
Toysrme Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 At any rate. The ECU is fine. The distributor is fine, the Ignitor/coil is fine. White smoke = blown head gasket. The severity of yours is huge. Testing my own 3vz-fe when I rebuilt the top end (and port & polished it among other things when I blew my rear headgasket) I revealed: They will crank and run (poorly) on only two pistons. Any two pistons. The engine will move the car on three pistons(I drove down the driveway on the front back) When I blew my headgasket (one piston lost compression, and was billowing coolant) performance did not degrade severly... At any rate, you've either severly blown a headgasket (multiple cylinders), or you've cracked the block. Trust me, You severly blew the headgasket. The block is cast iron and very thick. It doesn't go anywhere without a crane. You can see the insides of mine Here in various states of disrepair. You will need a full gasket set to do it. There are too many smalls eals that can't be saved when you tear it down. I've not seen a 3vz-fe gasket kit going on ebay for a few weeks now. You might try emailing the guy I got them from sales@autoreplacementparts.com and asking for a 92-93 3vz-fe full gasket set. I got mine last summer/fall for $140 shipped if I remember correctly. Tips: Be sure to clean *everything* while you're in there When you put the heads on... Over torque them so the heads stay on this time! Stock is 25lb-ft, 1/4 turn on all, 1/4 turn on all. That winds up being about 45 lb-ft. Tightening in an opposite pattern (like tightening a drum, or doing the camshafts) Torque them straight to 65 lb-ft. You might not like the idea of korean head gaskets, but they are superior to what Toyota used at the time. There are three reasons why the gaskets blow so easily on their mid 80- late model v6's. 1) The US gov banned asbestos in the 80s. All gaskets got weaker 2) Toyota under-torques several key parts on the car. Namely the heads. 3) On the transverse engine's, the rear heads are laid back at, or over a 30* angle. This causes a lot of un-needed stress on the gaskets in the rear of the engine. Ever wondered why it's always the rear head gasket, rear main seal, or rear valve cover gasket that goes first? That's why!
Icemaninlv Posted June 17, 2005 Author Posted June 17, 2005 I checked the compression on the front head. 174,169,176 haven't checked the rear. The injectors are brand new and the cold start was cleaned. haven't cleaned the MAF. I might as well change the head gasket 225 thousand miles and while the head is off get a valve job. thanks for the help.
Toysrme Posted June 17, 2005 Posted June 17, 2005 That's great compression for 225! Considering they come from the factory around 175-180psi. The front bank is doing great.
Icemaninlv Posted June 17, 2005 Author Posted June 17, 2005 ok that email address for the gaskets said he only has them for the 3vz-e will that work? also checked the rear head cyl. 1 and 3, 145 and 150 compression so the rear bank is blown.
Toysrme Posted June 18, 2005 Posted June 18, 2005 No, 3vz-e gaskets will not work. AFAIK different head / block patterns, intake manifolds, and sensor ports. Ya, that's not much more than bare minimum compresion. I bet when the engine heats up and the metal expands a little bit, it drops like a rock. You'll see something like this when you tear it down (between the #1 & #3 cylinders & near a coolant passage) A flexi-shaft extension will save your back & life taking the rear valve covers off. It's helpful to have normal, and deep well sockets in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" drive (you can get by without the 1/4") A cordless impact driver will cut the working time by 3/4. If you don't have one but you have a little money, I would suggest eBaying a used one, only to work on the car, and re-ebay it. Careful on the camshaft brearing caps. The heads are aluminum and strip easily. I've got three caps (two rear, one front) with stripepd bolts. Forget re-using most of the hardware!!! Find yourself a local nut & bolt supply house, and take your hardware down there and have them swapped out for the hardest stuff they have (normally M10). I replaced everything I took off with new hardware for $20. You need to have a big wrench. When you take the valve covers off, the camshafts have a spot that is shaped like a nut/head of a bolt. (Hex pattern) When you are taking the cam sprockets on/off, you put the wrench on the cams and walla! As soon as you bump the wrench into the side of the head, they can't wiggle anymore! It's easier to turn the engine over with compression. Take the spark plugs out! To get the crankshaft pulley off, take a 1/2 drive wratchet / 19mm socket and put it on the pulley. (with the plugs out, or ignion wire to distributor cut, so the engine doesn't run) Crank the engine so it turns over a split second. Congratulations, You just got the bolt out without fighting 200lb-ft by hand! (spec is 181lb-ft, but they self-tighten) You definately want a haynes repair manual if you don't have one. Chilton's has more words, but haynes has pictures, and accurate wiring diagrams. (you want the 92-96 Camry book)
Icemaninlv Posted June 23, 2005 Author Posted June 23, 2005 got the head gasket set from bell lexus in AZ for 225 plus shipping can't beat that for a dealer part. They even beat autozone 255 napa wanted 388. I did good. Well let yall know the results over the weekeend.
Toysrme Posted June 23, 2005 Posted June 23, 2005 Good luck. If you need any help (Doesn't really sound like it) You can hit me up on AIM or call the house.
Icemaninlv Posted June 25, 2005 Author Posted June 25, 2005 got the rear head out no problems except i broke my thumb breaking the exhuast bolts loose. the gasket didn't look to bad like yours. on the front head some dumbass reused the bolts so i have them all out cept for one thats stripped "any ideas" to remove i thought of welding a socket to it but i wouls only be able to give maybe 3mm of weld because limited space. or drill the top off and worry about it later. toys shoot me your number email icemaninlv@hotmail.com later
Toysrme Posted June 25, 2005 Posted June 25, 2005 Don't worry about stock bolts stripping. The bock is Iron, and the bolts are not. ;) I found (I did testing LoL!) It's highly unlikely to damage the threads in the head before the stock stretch bolts simply split in half. Before you weld a socket to it (I just welded a wrench to something to get it off, LoL! Welding is fun!) See if the next smallest (Or a half size if you're just a lucky & have them) socket will begin to fit. Also try an equivalent SAE size. What you do is take a hammer, and beat the son of a b*tch on. Most of the time any socket that is at least descent can be beaten onto these types of M10 harness stuff a few times before it breaks. That's what the lifetime no questions asked warrantees is for. =) Email is sent.
shonuffking43 Posted June 26, 2005 Posted June 26, 2005 Don't worry about stock bolts stripping. The bock is Iron, and the bolts are not. ;) I found (I did testing LoL!) It's highly unlikely to damage the threads in the head before the stock stretch bolts simply split in half.Before you weld a socket to it (I just welded a wrench to something to get it off, LoL! Welding is fun!) See if the next smallest (Or a half size if you're just a lucky & have them) socket will begin to fit. Also try an equivalent SAE size. What you do is take a hammer, and beat the son of a b*tch on. Most of the time any socket that is at least descent can be beaten onto these types of M10 harness stuff a few times before it breaks. That's what the lifetime no questions asked warrantees is for. =) Email is sent. ← been having engine problems like that too, just took the heads off had a oil gunk problem, anyway i have been having a time trying to get the oil pan off, got all the bolts out it just won't budge. My lex is a 98 es with 100,000 miles in it.
Toysrme Posted June 26, 2005 Posted June 26, 2005 1mz-fe's are a two part oil pan. Steel bottom, aluminum upper. How much have you taken out? You need to have the Y-pipe out, or out of the way. You have to take the flywheel cover off (two bolts). Push & pry the pan off enouhg to get a flat head screwdriver in the gasket material, then pry the steel pan off. When you take it off clean the oil pick up off. Take some pics in the bottom of the engine while your're in there. Let's see the 1mz-fe rods. ;) Ya may need a light under there to get the rods clearly. (You can zoom in on an angled one to see it).
Icemaninlv Posted June 27, 2005 Author Posted June 27, 2005 Finally got that damn bolt off heres the picture. After hours and hours of drilling with some cobalt drill bits and hammering with a nice sharp chisel this is what is left. Also when I was chiselling it, it started turning out so i chiseled a screw driver slot and unscrewed it.
Toysrme Posted June 27, 2005 Posted June 27, 2005 Like I emailed you, sorry the phone convorsation was so short, I was hopping a ride to grab some parts! I see what you mean by not spinning out, I thought you meant the bolt snapped totally in half down in the head. Boy would it have been easier if that would have happened! Good call beating a notch into it so a flat blade can turn it out! I swear an hour after you called the house I was doing the exact same thing trying to get a fitting off a turbocharger that snapped off. I had an easier time tho; I was beating a sharpened flat blade screwdrive into brass, not steel!!! :) While the heads are off, why don't you sacrifice a day, or two porting and polishing the heads? If nothing else, clean up the short side radious with strips of sand paper. When you re-install the heads, if you want some advice the books, nor a Toyota/lexus mechanic will tell you, torque the new bolts down to 35lb-ft, then re torque to 65lb-ft. If you are re-using the stretch bolts, pay attention to them, you don't want to split one in half. (Like I said, the weakest one i tested on mine split in half a 95lb-ft)
shonuffking43 Posted June 28, 2005 Posted June 28, 2005 1mz-fe's are a two part oil pan. Steel bottom, aluminum upper.How much have you taken out? You need to have the Y-pipe out, or out of the way. You have to take the flywheel cover off (two bolts). Push & pry the pan off enouhg to get a flat head screwdriver in the gasket material, then pry the steel pan off. When you take it off clean the oil pick up off. Take some pics in the bottom of the engine while your're in there. Let's see the 1mz-fe rods. ;) Ya may need a light under there to get the rods clearly. (You can zoom in on an angled one to see it). ← Well, i got all the bolts off i am hesitant about prying the aluminum oil pan away from the block, i don't want to damage it and the oul pick up tube is so clogged that i think i will replace it. Should i take the oil pump off and clean it up too? :) I will post pics of the rods and all parts when i get the pan off, cool?
Toysrme Posted June 28, 2005 Posted June 28, 2005 Well, i got all the bolts off i am hesitant about prying the aluminum oil pan away from the block, i don't want to damage it and the oul pick up tube is so clogged that i think i will replace it. Should i take the oil pump off and clean it up too? I will post pics of the rods and all parts when i get the pan off, cool? You have to pry to break the gasket seal, unless you have the special service tool Toyota uses. It's basically a razorblade on a stick they can slice the silicon gasket material with! If the oil pickup screen is clogged, just wipe it off - it's normal for it to trap debris. If the tube is clogged... That's bad! I would replace the oil pump instead of cleaning it, but that's just me. Awsome on the pics ;)
Icemaninlv Posted July 7, 2005 Author Posted July 7, 2005 ok all back together but it has a hard time starting and when started dies fast. I cleaned the EGR and IAC before installing them. very rough idle. basicaly acting the same way before i replaced the head gaskets. I am wondering if the timing belt might be off a tooth. any thoughts. Also does anyone have a picture of the stock vaccum hose locations, i forgot where they went. toys, I looked at your pictures for the vaccum lines but that wasn't stock locations, plus some of them did not even look like the 3vz-fe.
Toysrme Posted July 7, 2005 Posted July 7, 2005 Hope that helps. Ya, Don't go by those - if you did, you'd more than likely wind up with vacuum leaks, which will fubar the idle & low rpm performance. It's mostly random 3vz-fe stuff, but some of it is righ hand drive 3vz-fe's from Australian Camries. A 2vz-fe burrie din there somewhere... If the timing belt is off a tooth, it doesn't make a huge performance differance (more than that will kill performance). Check the ignition timing (10*btdc). If it's off - the cams are off -- At least the rear cams -- assuming you didn't play with the distributor. Set the engine to TDC on the gauge and take the front valve cover off. Make sure the cams are still aligned (dots pointing to each other).
Toysrme Posted July 7, 2005 Posted July 7, 2005 You can see disgrepancies there too, like the EGR being deleted and blocked. There's a sticker showing the basic routing of some of it under the hood.
Icemaninlv Posted July 8, 2005 Author Posted July 8, 2005 ok timing is fine 12*. car runs great at idle. when you press the gas and let off it dies immediatly. smoke still coming from the exhaust. strong gas smell and gas leaking from the exhuast tips. thinking the gasket between the throttle body and upper intake is bad. I RTV'ed it because i broke the old one and have to go to the dealer for a new one to lazy. All vaccum lines are good now. But would that gasket make it run to rich to poor fuel out the exhuast? :chairshot: thinking about throwing it the lake.
Icemaninlv Posted July 13, 2005 Author Posted July 13, 2005 changed distributer but g1 to ne still 265 were the book says max ohms is 250 is the new distributer bad? Car smokes Blue (BAD) now and oil is out the tailpipe I think i forgot the rear head valve stem seals :chairshot: :chairshot: :chairshot: don't want to tear down again...
Toysrme Posted July 13, 2005 Posted July 13, 2005 I'm assuming that is a typo? When you check the resistance, you check it to G-. NE to G- G1 to G- G2 to G- I would take the tester to the autopart store and have them open a new one and test it. You're an engineer / mechanic, make sure the multi meter is dialed in before testing - if it has a manual control.
Icemaninlv Posted July 13, 2005 Author Posted July 13, 2005 no typo just a dumba$$ no sleep no thinky worky. shoots good. meter fine. I tell you what thou I like working on airplanes much better than cars. to much BS in a car that doesn't make sense. Also pulled a code 24 IATS where the hell is that sensor book had a picture but it did not help. I know what the sensor looks like since my bike has one but I don't see it in the car. 1993 ES300 looks like I have to take the heads back off and double check the valve stems. jeez I hate getting dirty. :cries:
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