Modifications On A Budget

[91L3xus]

Hi everyone.

I'm obviously new to this place, and i really like looking around the forums. I am a 16 year old kid in highschool right now, and I just got my first car, a 1991 ES250; I love it, and it's in great condition for being over 14 years old (only problems are a missing power lock switch on the drivers door and 2 hail dents in the hood, both getting repaired by the previous owner for me.) I am looking for some way to modify my car, first mainly on performance, then on looks, things like HID's and keyless entry...all that crud. However, i am on a tight budget, but will be starting a $7.50/ hr job in about 2 weeks. Does anyone here have any good suggestions as where to start with modding my car? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

KJA

[husker]

When I had problems with my power locks, I enquired about a keyless entry in a nearby Bestbuy. They have keyless entries starting from $200 including installation. The caveat is that your power locks should work. Even then, I am not sure, if those keyless entries will work for Lexus. Also, for 91 ES250 the keyless entry buttons comes on the Master Key head and it needs to be programmed to operate the door, trunk and ignition. Check out the price at www.lexus-parts.com. Prior to check-out use 909RK to get some discount. Oh, the other thing is you should already have a Master key to program your new key :)

[91L3xus]

Actually i do not have a keyless entry, just a security system.

Pics included to show my power switch dilemna...lol.

Thanks for the link husker. :D

[amf1932]

Actually i do not have a keyless entry, just a security system.

Pics included to show my power switch dilemna...lol.

Thanks for the link husker. :D

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I bought a new 1991 ES250 and they didn't have the option of Keyless entry. I remember having to use the key to unlock either the drivers door with 1 turn of the key or all the doors with 2 turns of the key.

[Lexusfreak]

Hi everyone.

I'm obviously new to this place, and i really like looking around the forums.  I am a 16 year old kid in highschool right now, and I just got my first car, a 1991 ES250; I love it, and it's in great condition for being over 14 years old (only problems are a missing power lock switch on the drivers door and 2 hail dents in the hood, both getting repaired by the previous owner for me.)  I am looking for some way to modify my car, first mainly on performance, then on looks,  things like HID's and keyless entry...all that crud.  However, i am on a tight budget, but will be starting a $7.50/ hr job in about 2 weeks.  Does anyone here have any good suggestions as where to start with modding my car?  Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

KJA

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For mods on a budget, I suggest tint, K & N air filter, synthetic oil & a major tune up. Not all 'mods' per se but it won't hurt the car & the tint add quite a lot to the appearance of the car. Also consider a strut tower brace.....very inexpensive. Welcome to the club & good luck!

We can talk tires down the road! ;)

[branshew]

That's a nice looking car. As it has been suggested you can get an aftermarket keyless entry (potentially w/ remote start) for $200 or so installed. I would also go for the tint as well. Cosmetics will be no problem for that model, but performance is a different story.

As to the performance mods - you're going to be out of luck there for two reasons:

1) your car is 14 years old and since it's not a muscle car the parts market will be limited for add on performance items. You could get some custom work done, but then you'll be looking at big $$$. Maybe an intake, K&N (which I advise against), exhaust would be available. Tires, rims and suspension should also be available w/ no problems.

2) The ES 250 was never designed to be a performance car. Therefore there were never that many performance oriented parts made for that model (or any other model ES for that matter).

Anyway - welcome to the club. As a suggstion I would say that you should also try clublexus.com. There tend to be more kids your age on that forum who are into modding their cars. You may find more info there that would help you with performance than here on "older !Removed! forums."

It seems that the owners and members here are more mature in their outlook on things so we may be more conservative in our recommendations/advice/comments when it comes to dealing with our cars. I will say though that there is a tremendous wealth of knowledge about mechanics, construction, options, repairs and other valuable info here that can be found elsewhere so don't give up on us all together. There are a couple of other ES 250 owners here that can help you out.

[exdotcomer]

That's a nice looking car.  As it has been suggested you can get an aftermarket keyless entry (potentially w/ remote start) for $200 or so installed.  I would also go for the tint as well.  Cosmetics will be no problem for that model, but performance is a different story.

As to the performance mods - you're going to be out of luck there for two reasons:

1)  your car is 14 years old and since it's not a muscle car the parts market will be limited for add on performance items.  You could get some custom work done, but then you'll be looking at big $$$.  Maybe an intake, K&N (which I advise against), exhaust would be available.  Tires, rims and suspension should also be available w/ no problems.

2)  The ES 250 was never designed to be a performance car.  Therefore there were never that many performance oriented parts made for that model (or any other model ES for that matter).

Anyway - welcome to the club.  As a suggstion I would say that you should also try clublexus.com.  There tend to be more kids your age on that forum who are into modding their cars.  You may find more info there that would help you with performance than here on "older !Removed! forums." 

It seems that the owners and members here are more mature in their outlook on things so we may be more conservative in our recommendations/advice/comments when it comes to dealing with our cars.  I will say though that there is a tremendous wealth of knowledge about mechanics, construction, options, repairs and other valuable info here that can be found elsewhere so don't give up on us all together.  There are a couple of other ES 250 owners here that can help you out.

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girls dig the remote start!

this is a cruiser but tint, remote back up camera-dvd in dash radio,gps, k&n filter,rims and tires,strut tower brace and fresh detail will keep this ride up to date!

[Lexusfreak]

girls dig the remote start!

this is a cruiser but tint, remote back up camera-dvd in dash radio,gps, k&n filter,rims and tires,strut tower brace and fresh detail will keep this ride up to date!

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Never got a date or lost one for not having a remote start personally, but if you say so :whistles: I'm married (did not have remote start to impress here either!) now so what do I know!? lol B)

[exdotcomer]

girls dig the remote start!

this is a cruiser but tint, remote back up camera-dvd in dash radio,gps, k&n filter,rims and tires,strut tower brace and fresh detail will keep this ride up to date!

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Never got a date or lost one for not having a remote start personally, but if you say so :whistles: I'm married (did not have remote start to impress here either!) now so what do I know!? lol B)

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that was a joke...

[91L3xus]

For mods on a budget, I suggest tint, K & N air filter, synthetic oil & a major tune up. Not all 'mods' per se but it won't hurt the car & the tint add quite a lot to the appearance of the car. Also consider a strut tower brace.....very inexpensive. Welcome to the club & good luck!

We can talk tires down the road! wink.gif

cheers.gif

The engine was completely rebuilt by the Lexus dealership about 8,000 miles ago (currently has 128,000 miles) at Lindsay Lexus in Alexandria. (Previous owner is the manager of the dealership). The car runs suprisingly well, for having only 150 HP (i believe it's 150?), but i'm sure a few small engine mods would do no harm at all. One thing i did notice is that, while the redline is at 6500 RPM, i cruise at a very high RPM (about 3,000 at 70 MPH) which seems to me that would make the car use a lot of gas. Maybe because the car was sitting in the driveway until yesterday mid afternoon, that the engine was running rich and just using a lot of gas. I do use the gas agressively sometimes, but when i saw that i only got 50 odd miles on a quarter of a tank, it's starting to bother me, especially with gas prices.

As for oil, my dad tells me that you can easily go 5,000 miles on a single oil change, but that seems a little outrageous to me, if i want to keep it at its maximum performance and durability levels. I hear that Mobil 1 synthetic is one of the best oils out there.

As for tires, about 2,000 miles ago, a new set of Aquatreads were put on it, and the seem to perform decently when it comes to wet and dry weather traction.

Thanks for all the suggestions; i will start looking soon for that strut brace since i notice some bodyroll when cornering- maybe this will aid the problem somewhat.

:D

[Lexusfreak]

girls dig the remote start!

this is a cruiser but tint, remote back up camera-dvd in dash radio,gps, k&n filter,rims and tires,strut tower brace and fresh detail will keep this ride up to date!

←

Never got a date or lost one for not having a remote start personally, but if you say so :whistles: I'm married (did not have remote start to impress here either!) now so what do I know!? lol B)

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that was a joke...

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So were my comments.... ;)

[Lexusfreak]

The engine was completely rebuilt by the Lexus dealership about 8,000 miles ago (currently has 128,000 miles) at Lindsay Lexus in Alexandria.  (Previous owner is the manager of the dealership).  The car runs suprisingly well, for having only 150 HP (i believe it's 150?), but i'm sure a few small engine mods would do no harm at all.  One thing i did notice is that, while the redline is at 6500 RPM, i cruise at a very high RPM (about 3,000 at 70 MPH)  which seems to me that would make the car use a lot of gas.  Maybe because the car was sitting in the driveway until yesterday mid afternoon, that the engine was running rich and just using a lot of gas.  I do use the gas agressively sometimes, but when i saw that i only got 50 odd miles on a quarter of a tank, it's starting to bother me, especially with gas prices.

As for oil, my dad tells me that you can easily go 5,000 miles on a single oil change, but that seems a little outrageous to me, if i want to keep it at its maximum performance and durability levels.  I hear that Mobil 1 synthetic is one of the best oils out there.

As for tires, about 2,000 miles ago, a new set of Aquatreads were put on it, and the seem to perform  decently when it comes to wet and dry weather traction.

Thanks for all the suggestions; i will start looking soon for that strut brace since i notice some bodyroll when cornering- maybe this will aid the problem somewhat.

:D

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The strut tower brace will help with the body roll & they are fairly inexpensive. Amsoil & Mobil 1 synthetic are the two most popular synthetics on this site & yes, with these synthetics, you can go far more than 5,000 miles on a single oil change. ;) I switched from Mobil 1 TO Amsoil myself. Here is some info:

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asl.aspx

and...

Mobil 1 vs. Amsoil:

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/amsoil_vs_mobil1.aspx

[Toysrme]

Start off advancing the timing 7*. It shouldn't ping on 87 octane, if it does, drop it back to 4* of extra advance (10*btdc is stock). This will only add 0-3hp depending on rpm, but increases throttle responce greatly.

Cut your Air-flow Meter's top off. Tighten the cog / spring. This will lean the fuel mixture in open-loop mode. Depending on how much it leans out, there's probably another 10 horsepower hiding in there.

(Please paint the tooth you start out on so you don't get lost...)

The ACIS flap on the side of your intake. T it's vacuum actuator into the E port on your throttle body (i.e. bypass the ECU's lame control). Take the electrical connector off the VSV so it doesn't become a vacuum leak. This will increase power under 4100rpm.

Take your entire upper intake air chamber off and clean it. Just behind the throttle body, sharpen the top / bottom runner split to a knife edge (instead of the 1/2" flat face). You typically loose 5-10hp from carbon buildup. You gain back lsot horsepower. (And add a little flow at higher rpm's, where the FE head/cams need a little help)

If you have no emessions. Throw the EGR system away (close the pipe with a 5/8" brass cap fitting on the exhaust manifold. Block the hole on the intake pipe off with anything handy. Metal plate, Metal sheet with a wood backing. Piece of wood... Use some RTV silicon to seal whatever you use.) This will keep you from having to clean the intake every few months.

That's... 100% free and you should have 5-10-15 horsepower, depending on where you are in the powerband. I just told you how to gain more power for FREE than a cat-back exhaust and new intake can possible make.

[mcelligott]

If you do get pinging with 8x octane just use 91, 92, 93 with the advanced timing and youll be fine with the 7 deg advance.

Hook the timing light pickup to the #1 plug wire, jump the e1 and e01 diag ports, ground and power the timing light. Start up your car and let it idle to normal operating temp (probably around 700rpm for yours).

Loosen the bolt holding the distributor tight (there may be a second bolt as well) and turn it towards the right to advance the timing. Youll hear the motor rev faster and slower by turning it to the left and right. Youll find the timing marks pointing to the acessory belts on the lower left side of the engine. They range from -5 to 15 usually. You would want yours to say 7. When you have the timing set properly, tighten the distributor bolt and un hook everything you had connected.

If the MAF cog part seems difficult to you, do not touch it.

[Toysrme]

^ Exactly what he said.

[91L3xus]

Thanks for all the replies, now just to figure out waht most of them mean. Before i begin to mess with my car's electronics, i need to read up a lot about these procedures/talk to you more in depth maybe for a walkthrough? That would be great.

Now that school's over, and money is coming in slowly but surely, i believe theres some potential for my car, old as it may be.

[Toysrme]

I'll try to take it in baby steps, don't worry... We'll (Myself and Sean) have all of you turbo'ed, or at least think you could do it with some help by the end of summer! (hahahaha).

No fear... That's the key.

Other than touching something HOT, sticking a finger in a moving belt, or dropping a wrench between the battery posts (creating a ball of white hot plasma as it explodes and the wrench tries to arc weld itself to the vaporizing terminals...)

It's just a 2800-3400lb of stuff that can't hurt you, and more than likely you won't break it if you don't cut things, or hit something really, really hard!

Hahahaha all of that's a joke, but don't do any of it...

Also understand. Anything that sounds complicated is typically easy one you actually sit down and do it, and anything that sounds easy (like removing an exhaust bolt...) always winds up being total PITA.

***********************************************

This is actually much less complicated than I am going to make it seem... The action of resetting the ECU, cutting a lid off, turning a wheel two or three clicks.(That's the short version

The stock engines, even in modified run extremely rich. As in mid to low 12's rich. Peak torque is normally achieved around 13.2-high 12's at most.

Now. My engine is a 3vz-fe, but it's the same basic design, so just ignore any minor differences.

You see my airbox. Right behind it is the Air-Flow meter.

An Air-Flow Meter (aka Vane-Flap) is nothing more than a glorified rheostat made from a lever that is connected to a flap. The flap covers the entire intake.

(See how it's shut with no airflow?)

A spring holds the flap shut. As more and more air is sucked through the engine, the flap opens wider. The flap is connected to a rheostat. As it opens and closes, a voltage that is supplied by the ECU is modified.

The ECU combines this voltage (showing how MUCH air is entering) with the air temperature (taken from a sensor mounted separately in the housing) to find the total mass of the air entering the car.

The more tension on the flap -> the less the flap opens -> the less air the ECU thinks is entering the engine - > the less fuel it decides to inject

and vice-versa

Start out buy removing the battery, or opening the fuse box by the battery and removing the EFI fuse. This will force the ECU to reset, and relearn.

(A side note... Despite what people seem to say constantly on other forums, the actual ECU clears codes and resets faster than you can physically pull the EFI fuse completely out, and stick it back in. There is no need to wait 5 min, let alone the hour, or overnight answer sometimes giving)

Cut the silicon glue that holds the black plastic top off with a sharp knife.

Remember, no fear!

Peel the black plastic top off the housing.

The inside looks like so:

See the big cog that goes around under the electronics? There is a spring that is wound up that holds tension on the cog. This is what keeps pressure on the flap.

In our case, we want to tighten the cog to lean the mixture so:

About tuning:

Mark where you start out with something permanent like paint / nail polish / sharpie.

I would suggest not exceeding three teeth to start out with. Two teeth tighter would probably be a good starting point.

It's fine to leave it with the top off while you test it. I would definitely re-seal it after you get it set like you want it to keep moisture out...

About tuning:

Everyone stock, or near stock should be leaning the mixture. (tighter)

By that I mean if you don't have something fairly substantial adding power along the lines of ported and polished heads, mild force induction, or a small shot of n2o, you don't need to add fuel.

[Toysrme]

btw.

158hp @ 5800 rpm 152 lb-ft @ 4600rpm

I personally wouldn't down your ES250, or sell it short... The fact that they tend to have 2800lb curb weights goes a long way to off-setting the sub 160hp v6. *Especially* when you consider it can make around 170 horsepower before a dime is spent on actual performance upgrades.

Which happens to put the ES 250 right behind the rare 92-93 E153 manual transmission for fastest 1/4 mile time stock.

Even without mods, as long as it is in good shape, they run the 1/4 mile in the same time frame as the newer ones, if not maybe a hair quicker.

[91L3xus]

Couple of quick questions:

1) Do i need to remove the airbox completely for me to be able to complete the other steps? It seems to me that i have to do nothing with the airbox, other than remove it, if that's even necessary.

2) For removing the battery, i have a demobilizer on the right terminal, which if you unscrew it 4 turns, shuts off the engine- or at least all electricity to the car. Can i turn this rather than removing the battery? Also, you said that i only have to take out the EFI fuse, and not even bother about the battery.

3) Cutting the flap; will this adversely affect the car after it's been done, or is there a way to replace it after cutting it off, or does it even really matter?

Here's a picture of my engine so far, this'll give you a look at the differences between the engines. (mine is a 2vz-fe).

Edited June 1, 2005 by 91L3xus

[Toysrme]

1) No, you don't have to remove it at all.

2) Just pull the EFI fuse out. That way you don't loose radio or clock presets.

3) The only thing we're cutting is the plastic top of the box. After the factory finishes assembling, and calibrating the unit, they use a silicon glue to hold the plastic top on.

Slice the glue off all around and pry the top off.

It's not adversly affected when you take it off. It simply covers electronics from the elements.

Glue it back on when you've finished, or tape it, whatever you want to do to seal it back. ;)

[91L3xus]

Alright, just did it, now out to see what the differnce is.

I'm so giddy right now.:whistles:

:snoooorrrtttt: Yeahhhhhh. I can feel the difference! How much power does that add?

Now onto other realms of performance and visual mods!

Edited June 3, 2005 by 91L3xus

[Toysrme]

Probably around ten horsepower if you nailed it. Maybe more or less.

Next tackle the ignition timing. You'll need to get your hands on a timing light. If you've got the $$$ to put upfront, you can borrow them from auto-parts stores like Autozone.

[NeiLtYmE]

Your tutorials and methods are very well done. I love the details and the pictures that explain everything to the point step-by-step.

I tried your kickdown cable trick and messed around with that the other day. It was interesting to observe the shifting patters. I have it running in the middle closer to the "hard point" Great difference it made.

[91L3xus]

Not to sound too much like an auto "noob", but when i turned that cog, what really happened? I still can't believe that doing something so small can make a differnce like that. I felt a little more punch in the midrange, when i shift through the gears myself.

[Toysrme]

Toyota tunes everything very conservatively.

They run very rich (too much fuel, way more than maximum performance is achived at) and loose power from it. You simply leaned it back out (less fuel, closer to where peak power is achived)