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1998 Oil Pan Gasket?


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Well my 1998 oil pan is leaking a small amount. Now I went down to check the mounting bolts and wow, they are very loose. Unreal the lack of torque on the them. My bike pan has more torque on the bolts.

So I tightened then up like 3/4-turn to see how that does. Since I am an OCD freak with my auto's, how hard is it to change the pan gasket? Anything special needed or is it the normal drain, drop, clean and reinstall (like a tranny interval)?

Also I only found an auto store online that sells the oil pan gasket. Is there any OEM gaskets out there online? I looked for the normal part sites, from this forum, and got zero...

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For OEM, I ussually give www.irontoad.com a shot. I dunno, does the oil pan gasket need an adhesive? I don't think the tranny pan does but thats the only other thing I would check.

Do you need the torque specs for te pan bolts?

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For the past 15 years the factory has used a bead of Formed-In-Place-Gasket Sealer part

#08826-00080 to seal the oil pan. You can buy a tube of this sealer at any Toyota dealer. Only a tiny amount of torque - measured in inch pounds - is used on the oil pan bolts after the sealer is applied. The whole procedure is explained in the factory repair manual.

Normally this FIPG Sealer is leak free for decades / hundreds of thousands of miles. However, Toyota sternly warns owners not to extend oil changes when using synthetic oil and warns against switching back and forth between synthetic and conventional oil.

It's possible Toyota issued these warnings because the Toyota engineers know the integrity and life span of the engine seals may be compromised by extending oil changes and switching back and forth.

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For the past 15 years the factory has used a bead of Formed-In-Place-Gasket Sealer part

#08826-00080 to seal the oil pan.   You can buy a tube of this sealer at any Toyota dealer.  Only a tiny amount of torque - measured in inch pounds - is used on the oil pan bolts after the sealer is applied.  The whole procedure is explained in the factory repair manual.

Normally this FIPG Sealer is leak free for decades / hundreds of thousands of miles.  However,  Toyota sternly warns owners not to extend oil changes when using synthetic oil and warns against switching back and forth between synthetic and conventional oil. 

It's possible Toyota issued these warnings because the Toyota engineers know the integrity and life span of the engine seals may be compromised by extending oil changes and switching back and forth.

Toyota uses a Formed-In-Place-Gasket Sealer? wow now that is not what I expect form Toyota. They use a silicone gasket. I expect more then that from then. If they make a tranny gasket why not a oil pan gasket.

Thanks but the seal design is NOT effected by extended drains or switching back and forth. If the seals are affected by switch backing and forth then you have a junk design period. I will/would tell any Toyota engineer that. I have designed seals on NASA units and jet engines and lets say you really can't NOT pick an "off the shelf seals that will have problems. Or select a material that will be ok with on oil then not another. 100% different fluids yes, engine oil no.

Also if it WAS caused by switching I would have alot more troubles then an oil pan my friend. lets see, cam and crank seals, valve covers etc etc.

All I am saying is that the oil pan alone has nothing to even do with extended drains. Why is it that every oil post I make you say the same thing. Oh my wifes last car was a toyota and had 200+ miles and never used synthetic. Do you want me to list all the seals I had replaced or the never ending leaks? Or the varnish issues with Toyota oil. Just pull the dipstick and the thing was yellow/gold and the oil was changed every 3K at at the dealer. The thing was caked with black oil and I refused to fix the endless leaking seals.

To close, I did not say the seal were bad, I do not like having to tighten and then re-check the gasket. It is easier just to buy a new gasket since they are cheap. Also there is not one auto I have every owned that did not leak at some point. Most times is factory issues or old designed that need re-deignes. M ynew Kubota tractor had many leaks that were old designes that are now re-designed.

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For OEM, I ussually give www.irontoad.com a shot.  I dunno, does the oil pan gasket need an adhesive?  I don't think the tranny pan does but thats the only other thing I would check. 

Do you need the torque specs for te pan bolts?

Thanks. I think the torque specs are around 20 in-lbs. I am trying to find out if the oil pan has a gasket that seals. Or is the gasket a silicone as monarch states. I have a hard time believing that Lexus/Toyota uses a silicone on the oil pan. If they make a tranny gasket/seal I assume as good designers/engineers they have a formed gasket ready to go.

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Let us know your findings mburn.  I'm sure you will be able to get a proper gasket that seals & the oil pan is good as new.  B)

  :cheers:

I tighten last night and so far it is dry as my vodka glass! :) I figure in 8 years the pan has not be touched (checked/torqued).

I lubed all the mounts etc today and it must be in my head since the car is quieter. no noise when turning etc.

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Mike,

I know you have a 98, but I had to go look at my 02 factory manual

This Lexus manual states:

Apply seal packing to the oil pan as shown in the illustration.

Seal packing Part No. 08226-00080 or equivalent.

I guess toyota is not too picky here.

In addtion,

It also states in the next step:

Install the oil pan with the 17 bolts and 2 nuts.

Torque:

10 mm head 8 N m (82 kgf cm, 71 in lbf)

12 mm head 20 N m (199 kgf cm, 14 ft lbf)

looks like they have gone up from the 20 in lbf.

steviej

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Mike,

I know you have a 98, but I had to go look at my 02 factory manual

This Lexus manual states:

Apply seal packing to the oil pan as shown in the illustration.

Seal packing Part No. 08226-00080 or equivalent.

I guess toyota is not too picky here.

In addtion,

It also states in the next step:

Install the oil pan with the 17 bolts and 2 nuts.

Torque:

10 mm head  8 N m (82 kgf cm, 71 in  lbf)

12 mm head 20 N m (199 kgf cm, 14 ft lbf)

looks like they have gone up from the 20 in lbf.

steviej

Wow, I know the bolts are 10mm since I can take 90% of the car apart with 10mm. 71 in-lbs is much higher then I know what is on there right now. That is the problem. Over time and vibs, botls do loose if not lock wired.

Thanks Steve, I guess my OCD is killing me here.

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