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Alternator Removal/replacement For '92ls


Gumart1
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Can someone help me with how to remove and replace the alternator, or direct me to a tutorial? I can't find anything on this site after searching.

Haven't even really driven the car, but the power steering leak was so bad it just took out the alternator altogether. I'm guessing this is why I also had random CEL and other trouble lights coming on occasionally up until it went.

Of course I intend to correct the leaks before installing the new alternator, and making sure the battery is fully charged.

Another question, both Lexus and many parts suppliers suggest replacing not only the pump, but the entire rack and lines, otherwise they say there is a big increase in the problem reoccurring.

Of course Lexus tells me the entire rack and lines are leaking, but I'm going to have my independent mechanic verify this. My steering was fine and I never heard any groaning or other noises, but the fluid has to be replaced and you can clearly see the fluid all over the alternator and other parts.

Not sure where to start regarding the leaks, can I use a repair kit? Just replace the gaskets and clean the filter screens?

Thoughts? Thanks.

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Alternator removal is fairly easy:

Disconnect battery negative terminal

Remove drive belt

Remove wires connected to alternator

Remove thru bolt holding alternator

Once alternator is out of the way you can replace the PS pump.

I wouldn't replace the steering rack unless there was evidence of a problem. Pretty expensive. You will need to replace the PS pump (common problem) unless you find it is just a leaky hose fitting.

Good luck! :cheers:

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I think I can tackle this job on my own - I've got the negative battery cable disconnected and the drive belt removed. Now where the heck is the alternator? Do I first remove the bolt to the pulley that is located under the ps pump? Is the alternator behind this? Do I have to remove any hoses, air cleaner housing, or fan to better access it? Thanks for the help.

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Just two days after I bought my '91 LS400 the factory original alternator died

due to leaking power steering fluid. So like you I was faced with the task of

replacing the alternator. I wrote down the following notes as I was performing

the job. I removed the radiator to gain more working space. Although I normally

buy only OEM replacement parts, I decided to use a Bosch replacement alternator

from Autozone because I was not sure how long it would take me to get the PS

leak fixed and I did not want to ruin a new OEM alternator. I also built a protective

plastic cover for the new alternator http://www.saber.net/~monarch/alternatorcov.jpg

4. Remove coolant jar cap.

5. Drain coolant through radiator drain !Removed!

6. Remove 17mm coolant filler nut above the thermostat housing.

7. Remove upper radiator hose

8. Retighten radiator drain !Removed! after draining.

9. Remove two transmission cooler hoses at radiator.

10. Remove lower radiator hose.

11, Remove hose connecting radiator to coolant jar.

12. remove two two radiator support and radiator & fan electrical connector, shround strap

11. Remove serpentine drive belt.

12. Loosen 14mm upper alternator mounting nut

and lower 14mm alternator mounting bolt.

13. remove lower alt bolt then top nut

14. disconnect stuff to alternator and pull out alternator

alternator installation:

1. attach stuff to rear of alt from top:

a) put on lead wire then 12mm securing nut

B) snap in elect conn.

c) from below tie lower alt bracket out of the way with string

while struggling to get top

alt hole mounted onto threated 14mm stud. Then tighten upper

14mm nut, then tighten lower 14 mm bolt

2. install serpentine drive belt. slip onto ps pulley last while depressing

tensioner counterclockwise

4. install radiator, and attach white fan electrical connector

then attach shroud strap.

5. Install hose connecting radiator with coolant jar & 2 clamps

6. Install lower radiator hose with 2 clamps

7. install two transmission hoses with 4 clamps.

8. Install upper radiator hose with 2 clamps

9. fill coolant through coolant opening & rad cap / patience

10, add 1 cup tranny fluid

11. install pass side radiator support with 12 mm bolt

12. install air duct

13. install batt - cable

14 install driver side batt cover

15. install coolant

16. install trans fluid

Now with regard to the PS system leaks it's a somewhat complicated

affair. From what I have been able to determine, the root cause of

the leaks is excessive hydraulic fluid pressures caused by clogged or

restricted a filter screen located inside the solenoid valve on the

steering rack and inside the PS fluid pump reservoir. So the first

task is to clean these screens and see if that alleviates the leakage.

It may or may not. The second task is to correct another common

leak point - the air control valve attached to the PS pump. I got

mine from 1sttoyotaparts.com for about $62.00 part# 17630-16040

The third task is to replace the rubber 0-ring sealing rings inside or

attached to the PS pump using a $25 PS pump reseal kit purchased

from irontoad.com or your local Lexus dealer. Alternatively you can

buy a new pump from irontoad.com, rebuilt pump from Autozone or

take your chances with ebay.

After all this PS work has been done, chances are very high your

system will not leak anymore, but if it does then the last resort

is to replace the expensive high pressure PS hose assembly.

No car is perfect and the PS system is a weakness of the LS400.

However, owners who periodically change the PS fluid can help

delay clogging of the filter screens which is the root cause of

the problems to begin with. In other words the LS400 pump

and associated hoses are very durable if the screens in the

system are kept clean and the fluid is periodically changed

to help prevent the screens from getting clogged.

By the way, thanks for you email the other day.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...

since i spent the last three days working on the solenoid and alternator, then the new alt was defective, i had to take it off twice so i decided to take some pics to help others.

1) remove battery cover, front air intake, and air filter element, and serpentine/drive belt

post-20216-1143470907_thumb.jpg

2) remove negative battery cable

3) Remove passenger tire

post-20216-1143470981_thumb.jpg

4) remove top 14mm bolt

post-20216-1143471073_thumb.jpg

now go under the car and remove under cover

5) there are 5(five) 10 mm bolt that will help if removed

5a) the passenger side cover/splash gaurd

post-20216-1143471226_thumb.jpg

5b) the 2(two) bolts that hold the High pressure hose onto the oil pan

post-20216-1143471302_thumb.jpg

5c) the bolt (it's sorta hidden) that holds the tranny lines?(also connects to the lower alternator bolt)

post-20216-1143471470_thumb.jpg

5d) the bolt on the driver side under the oil filter

post-20216-1143471537_thumb.jpg

6) remove lower 14mm alternator bolt

post-20216-1143471707_thumb.jpg

7) remove three (maybe four) 8mm nuts/bolts that hold alternator cover (i used lexus trunk wrench) allow to drop

post-20216-1143471835_thumb.jpg

8) remove bolted connector on top/side: 12mm (i'd suggest wrench)

9) wiggle through wires and things (i rotated the pulley upward and twisted the alt back and forth until it fell thru) !WARNING! watch your face!

post-20216-1143472098_thumb.jpg

10) remove last connector!

DONE! i also took a pic of the under side of the PS Pump for anyone to see the bolts

the long screw on the right is for the top of the alternator, but you should be able to see the nuts on the PSPump!

post-20216-1143472214_thumb.jpg

Good Luck! :cheers:

post-20216-1143471404_thumb.jpg

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ko:

since i spent the last three days working on the solenoid and alternator, then the new alt was defective, i had to take it off twice so i decided to take some pics to help others.

"Whom" should we "avoid" when purchasing a replacement alternator?

Thanks, :D

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My personal opinion and what I did with my alternator was to take the original alt and have it rebuilt. In my case I bought a factory used alt. and had it rebuilt while I ran on the old one that was on its way out.

Kinda like OEM lite. Still have my original alt that if and when I need another will just do the same.

....another dos centavos.

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thread, i think it was just a fluke. the alternator(s) are rebuilt bosch, but the back of the case (where connector plugs in) said ND, so i think they just rebuilt a Denso Alt? i got it from pep boys for $160+55 core and a lifetime warranty (KEEP RECEIPT) when i first brought in the PS fluid dead one, they "couldn't find my info in the system?" HUH? oh well... <_< replaced with fluke, and then replaced with Good Alt (asked to check at store)! :cheers: personally i wanted to go the arkansawer route on the first dead alt but lifetime warranty! honesty i think pep boys just sends them to a local rebuilder and puts the bosch stickers on there!?

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I decided to use a Bosch replacement alternator from Autozone
I can't believe what I'm reading...a non Toyota part on Monarch's car!!! I'm speachless! J/K ;) :lol:

:cheers:

Yeah, but wasn't it a Bosch rebuild of a Denso Core? Technically still a Lexus part? ..............I think we need a ruling from a line judge.......... ;)

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ko90ls, I'd love it if you could post just a few pictures of how you loosened the steering rack solenoid. Ideally, an action type picture showing where you placed the loosening too and where and how you used the tool to loosen the solenoid. Thanks in advanced if you get a chance to do this.

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........or ko90ls if you could just stop by monarch's place.

That would be one helluva drive Ohio-->Sacramento!! ;) Where are you posting from in "The Natural State?"

Monarch, you just get your channel locks and start wrenching on that bad boy! Look by the pressure valve assembly, there is one electrical connector to unplug then the solenoid comes unscrewed. We actually broke the solenoid in my car in the midst of taking it off....they're easy to fix so long as you don't destroy the wiring! Mine was actually pretty clean, not nearly as dirty as the pictures that I've seen posted here on LOC. Cleaning it did, however, cure a herky-jerky motion my steering would do when it was in a locked position

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Am I serious? Like a heart attack. Depending on how frozen yours is, you might need to tap it a few times with a hammer and screw driver to break it loose. The reason mine broke was because I misinterpreted some pictures that were in this forum (it had absolutely nothing to do with the method I used to take it off.). I can't wait to hear about the official method....I mean your method.:wacko:

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Am I serious? Like a heart attack. Depending on how frozen yours is, you might need to tap it a few times with a hammer and screw driver to break it loose. The reason mine broke was because I misinterpreted some pictures that were in this forum (it had absolutely nothing to do with the method I used to take it off.). I can't wait to hear about the official method....I mean your method.:wacko:

blakester:

you might need to tap it a few times with a hammer and screw driver to break it loose.

Yeah, just to break it loose, then turn it by hand until it comes off. There have been too many guys that have torn the whole solenoid up with vice grips.

I can't wait to hear about the official method....I mean your method.:wacko:

I thought you were the "Keeper of the long stick".........

The official method?........yeah, right.

It's just a matter of personal preference. I like the punch/chisel method; you like the vice grips. Each have their place. I think too many readers of this subject/threads are looking for the "official method", when in reality, there isn't one.

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If total cost was under $250 + 1st born naming rights signed over to Mr. Yokamo*BLEEP*o, then it's not oem. hahaa...

I decided to use a Bosch replacement alternator from Autozone
I can't believe what I'm reading...a non Toyota part on Monarch's car!!! I'm speachless! J/K ;) :lol:

:cheers:

Yeah, but wasn't it a Bosch rebuild of a Denso Core? Technically still a Lexus part? ..............I think we need a ruling from a line judge.......... ;)

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I seem to be having the same problem that Gumart1 is having.....my power steering fluid is leaking into my alternator. My mechanic told me that a new alternator is around $550 plus $120 labor (this is for my 93 LS). However, I also have a 90 LS that is just sitting in my driveway. Can i swap the alternators and save myself some $$$$? Is the voltage the same??? I don't want to swap them and then find out that I screwed something electrical up.

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csorbo01, the alternator for your 93 is different than for the 90-92. Not sure of the exact differences, however. Could be an upgrade from 80amp to 100amp. But the most important thing is for you to fix the power steering leak completely first, or you'll be changing alternators every week! :wacko:

Plenty of repeat threads about the leaks, so start there before you deal with the alternator. I like what some other members have recommended with the alternator, which is rebuilding it instead of replacing. For the '92 I was repairing at the time, I found a rebuilt alternator online for about $125 with a $25 refundable core. Best price I could find at the time. Replacing the alternator takes about an hour at the most, and this is coming from someone who couldn't even find the alternator when I joined this forum. :D

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Good thing I asked before I went ahead and swapped my alternator between my two cars! Thanks for the advice Gumart1.

I'm getting my power steering leakage problem taken care of this week. Yes, that would be pretty foolish to change the alternator before fixing the problem that is making the alternator go bad in the first place. Checking online for prices seems like a good idea, I'll check it out. Thanks!

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