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Can I Switch To Synthetic Cold Turkey W/98k Miles?


Gumart1
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I have read, read some more, and read again. I know it's been covered in detail, but I still can't find the answers. I can't seem to be persuaded by either side regarding whether I should use synthetic oil or not in my '98 LS400. Until now, at 98k miles, it has used conventional only by the last owner every 5k miles at the Dealer. I live in the Chicago area. I bought from a private party so the engine area was never steam cleaned for looks. I don't see any leaks from what I can see (will removing the plastic engine cover let me see more?). I plan on keeping the car for a long, long time. I am accustomed to changing the oil on my other cars every 3k with conventional. Yesterday I stopped at Pep Boys and saw that Mobil1 was on sale for $3.99 a quart so I bought 12 quarts. I already have my genuine Toyota oil filters. Can I make the switch cold turkey, what is the possibility of a leak, if it leaks can I switch right back? Should I make the switch guys?

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Both of my Lexus got synthetic the same month I bought them used. One had 115k kilometers and the other 96k kilometers. No leaks, no fuss, just a quieter running, more powerful engine. Mobil 5W-30. Don't overthink this. Just change to synthetic and drive the car.

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I have read, read some more, and read again. I know it's been covered in detail, but I still can't find the answers. I can't seem to be persuaded by either side regarding whether I should use synthetic oil or not in my '98 LS400. Until now, at 98k miles, it has used conventional only by the last owner every 5k miles at the Dealer. I live in the Chicago area. I bought from a private party so the engine area was never steam cleaned for looks. I don't see any leaks from what I can see (will removing the plastic engine cover let me see more?). I plan on keeping the car for a long, long time. I am accustomed to changing the oil on my other cars every 3k with conventional. Yesterday I stopped at Pep Boys and saw that Mobil1 was on sale for $3.99 a quart so I bought 12 quarts. I already have my genuine Toyota oil filters. Can I make the switch cold turkey, what is the possibility of a leak, if it leaks can I switch right back? Should I make the switch guys?

I concur, have put Mobil One 5w30 in both of mine when purchased, a 94 with 25,000 and now a 98 with 60,000. Never had a leak or other problem. Just positive results. In the words of a great man, just "git er done".

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I have read, read some more, and read again. I know it's been covered in detail, but I still can't find the answers. I can't seem to be persuaded by either side regarding whether I should use synthetic oil or not in my '98 LS400. Until now, at 98k miles, it has used conventional only by the last owner every 5k miles at the Dealer. I live in the Chicago area. I bought from a private party so the engine area was never steam cleaned for looks. I don't see any leaks from what I can see (will removing the plastic engine cover let me see more?). I plan on keeping the car for a long, long time. I am accustomed to changing the oil on my other cars every 3k with conventional. Yesterday I stopped at Pep Boys and saw that Mobil1 was on sale for $3.99 a quart so I bought 12 quarts. I already have my genuine Toyota oil filters. Can I make the switch cold turkey, what is the possibility of a leak, if it leaks can I switch right back? Should I make the switch guys?

Hi Gumart1,

I bought my Lexus at 115,000 and switched to synthetic and now have over 250,000 miles. When the car became 10 years old, I had Lexus dealer replace the seals on the engine because they do get old and hard and will start to leak. I still use 5w-30 synthetic oil in my car (i've heard some switch to 10w-30 to slow the amount of oil used) and it still uses about the same amount of oil it has always used. If you want to make your engine last, this is a good way to go. I would replace the oil filter every 6 months and change out the oil every year regardless of how many miles you put on the engine. I say this because synthetic oil doesn't break down like ordinary oil. The biggest thing is to keep the oil as clean as you can. I went one step further on my car and added a by-pass filter(cleans oil down to .5 microns) and I change that one once a year. I just finished checking the compression(with two different mac testers) and all cylinders are 190psi or better. The book says 178psi or better is what theywould like to see and 142psi min. Sounds like I am doing something right. I drive this car 75 mph everyday to work and back (about 20 miles one way) and absolutely love this car. I even use synthetic in the transmission and power steering and rear end. I plan to drive this car a long time yet. Hope this helps, Daffy

ps- A well engineered car deserves a well engineered oil. :cheers:

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Both of my Lexus got synthetic the same month I bought them used.  One had 115k kilometers and the other 96k kilometers.  No leaks, no fuss, just a quieter running, more powerful engine.  Mobil 5W-30.  Don't overthink this.  Just change to synthetic and drive the car.

I also agree! B) Consider either Mobil 1 OR Amsoil (I'm actually making the switch from Mobil 1 5W30 to Amsoil ASL series 5W30 because it's an overall better protecting & longer lasting synthetic oil). Good Luck! ;)

:cheers:

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I can't seem to be persuaded by either side regarding whether I should use synthetic oil or not in my '98 LS400.

Commercial interests are the ones making you wonder about such a trivial issue as type of oil and brand of oil.

Members of the Toyota 400,000 mile club know the choice of oil type, brand and even weight does NOT hardly affect engine life. They know there are thousands of 100,000 - 200,000 mile Toyotas in the nations junkyards that got there even though their owners used synthetic oil. They know other factors besides type and brand of oil are far more important determinants of engine life.

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I can't seem to be persuaded by either side regarding whether I should use synthetic oil or not in my '98 LS400.

Commercial interests are the ones making you wonder about such a trivial issue as type of oil and brand of oil.

Members of the Toyota 400,000 mile club know the choice of oil type, brand and even weight does NOT hardly affect engine life. They know there are thousands of 100,000 - 200,000 mile Toyotas in the nations junkyards that got there even though their owners used synthetic oil. They know other factors besides type and brand of oil are far more important determinants of engine life.

i disagree.

my contour went 385K because of synthetic oil. swithced at 200K, no leaks...ever.

syhtnetic oil is a key ingredient to longer engine life. ask one of the few people (me) who has torn down the engine of a car with more than a half a million miles that was using dino, and sat the parts right next to the same parts from the same engine type with synthetic, the difference will never be more clear.

synth has smaller molecules, which allow it to get into tighter spaces, to lubricate better and retain its lubrication properties longer. its as simple as that. while for the average car owner, regular oil will suffice (most dont even know there is a sythetic option), but for me, i woudl rather pay the extra money and have the added insurance.

and weight WILL affect engine life, jst ask the knuclkehead down the street from me who blew the motor in his WRX from putting in 20w50 :rolleyes: . not covered under warranty due to oil not bing the specified weight. the engine had 25,000 miles.

to the poster, try not to overthink this, just put the oil in and drive the car LOL. :D

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O.K. after reading this I'm ready to jump on the Moble 1 band wagon. I have always changed oil every 3 months or 3,000. I know I can go longer with Moble 1... But a year????? I would think of still changing oil every 6,000 to 9,000?? Your thughts on this. Also 5-30 sounds fine for winter, But I'm in Arizona so in the summer heat 120 to 130 in July, I run 10-40... Should I still stay 5-30 in summer????

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syhtnetic oil is a key ingredient to longer engine life. ask one of the few people (me) who has torn down the engine of a [American] car with more than a half a million miles that was using dino,

Army, Asian car engines are so well engineered they look and run almost like new after 500,000 miles of running on dino oil. After 500,000 miles they still have high compression, no serious oil consumption problem and no serious wear that can be seen or felt. That's likely the reason why the Asians generally do not recommend synthetic oil (except in a few isolated cases).

But, like I said, Asian cars with only 150,000 miles fairly frequently end up in automotive junkyards regardless of the type of engine oil used. Reasons? Owner neglect or modification of the other engine systems: (cooling, ignition, emission, etc) "Modification" = substituting aftermarket parts, filters, fluids and lubes in place of the factory original ones.

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weight WILL affect engine life, jst ask the knuclkehead down the street from me who blew the motor in his WRX from putting in 20w50 :rolleyes:

Historically, Toyotas have not been sensitive to oil weight. They have run 500,000 miles on 5W-30 as well as on 20W-50. In the USA, Toyota recommends 5W-30 for fuel economy (EPA kiss !Removed!) reasons, but down in Mexico and other 3rd world and middle eastern countries where there is no EPA, Toyota and Nissan owners manuals recommend 10W-40, 20W-40 or 20W-50 (at temperatures above freezing).

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O.K. after reading this I'm ready to jump on the Moble 1 band wagon.  I have always changed oil every 3 months or 3,000.  I know I can go longer with Moble 1... But a year?????  I would think of still changing oil every 6,000 to 9,000?? Your thughts on this. Also 5-30 sounds fine for winter, But I'm in Arizona so in the summer heat 120 to 130 in July, I run 10-40... Should I still stay 5-30 in summer????

What your 14 year old Lexus REALLY likely needs to survive alot more miles is a new radiator*, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor rotors and caps and oxygen sensors. Owner neglect of these other engine systems causes excessive internal engine heat and corrosion which accelerates engine wear by orders of magnitude and synthetic oil will NOT compensate / ameliorate any of this.

*due to internal mineral deposits caused by the use of aftermarket antifreeze and / or tap water instead of distilled water.

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O.K. after reading this I'm ready to jump on the Moble 1 band wagon.  I have always changed oil every 3 months or 3,000.  I know I can go longer with Moble 1... But a year?????  I would think of still changing oil every 6,000 to 9,000?? Your thughts on this. Also 5-30 sounds fine for winter, But I'm in Arizona so in the summer heat 120 to 130 in July, I run 10-40... Should I still stay 5-30 in summer????

Don't go over 5K --even with Mobil One ---and you should always change oil & filter every 6 months regardless of mileage

Gumart,

I use Amsoil or Mobil One 5-30w.......started @ 53K when I got the car.

On the first change to synthetic, I'd be temped to change the oil early (or at least the filter) -- like @ 1.5-2k miles -- because the filter will get pretty dirty as the synthetic oil will "clean " the engine more.....

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O.K. after reading this I'm ready to jump on the Moble 1 band wagon.  I have always changed oil every 3 months or 3,000.   I know I can go longer with Moble 1... But a year?????  I would think of still changing oil every 6,000 to 9,000?? Your thughts on this. Also 5-30 sounds fine for winter, But I'm in Arizona so in the summer heat 120 to 130 in July, I run 10-40... Should I still stay 5-30 in summer????

What your 14 year old Lexus REALLY likely needs to survive alot more miles is a new radiator*, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor rotors and caps and oxygen sensors. Owner neglect of these other engine systems causes excessive internal engine heat and corrosion which accelerates engine wear by orders of magnitude and synthetic oil will NOT compensate / ameliorate any of this.

*due to internal mineral deposits caused by the use of aftermarket antifreeze and / or tap water instead of distilled water.

What in the world makes you think I said anything about going to Mobile 1 and forgeting the rest of the car! I would never put antthing but distilled water in the car. I do not even use tap water for the wiper washer! For coolant, I run a store bought high temp premix from a major manufacture, And I change out all the fluids once a year, and I mean all. Radiator, Tranny, Rear end..... In the summer (July) we hit 130. In winter down only to the low 30's. So it is very hard on fluids, and comparied to a new egine or tranny, mantanice is cheep. Tune ups as needed or 60,000 miles. Car gts a going over at every oil change And I'v been doing lube oil and filter every 3,000 or 3 months.. So, what makes you say I need a new radiator!

I give my 84 Saab with over 300,000 miles the same care. And odly enough, the factory Radiator just got replaced with an OEM part. Car has org engine, turbo, tranny...

I hope you get the piont

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weight WILL affect engine life, jst ask the knuclkehead down the street from me who blew the motor in his WRX from putting in 20w50 :rolleyes:

Historically, Toyotas have not been sensitive to oil weight. They have run 500,000 miles on 5W-30 as well as on 20W-50. In the USA, Toyota recommends 5W-30 for fuel economy (EPA kiss !Removed!) reasons, but down in Mexico and other 3rd world and middle eastern countries where there is no EPA, Toyota and Nissan owners manuals recommend 10W-40, 20W-40 or 20W-50 (at temperatures above freezing).

ah you didnt say toyotas, you said engines. <_<

and FYI, the engines i tore down were Nissian SR20DE's :chairshot:

Im not getting into a debate with you about which oil is better, because i know where it will lead, nowhere. The man is going to do what he is going to do.

914lps, you have come to me for advice before, i will give you some now. put syntHetic in and forget it for 3-5,000 miles. yeah sure, it can go longer but why bother risking it.

YOUR CAR WILL NOT LEAK BECAUSE OF THE OIL, IT WILL NOT BURN ANY OIL.

you will notice a rather large increase in fuel economy. i know i did in my last car. went from 300 a tank to almost 350 per tank. you will also notice cooler engine temperatures BECUASE THE ENGINE IS LUBRICATED BETTER!

outside of that dont worry about it. there is nothing detremental that could come from putting synthetic oil in your engine. the bottom line is, if there was a reason not to, they wouldnt sell it.

My cooling system was terribly neglected by the previous owner, and im going to take care fo that probably this weened, but my temp gauge never goes above half, gives you something to think about monarch. mine is over 15 years old (DOM 11/12/1989) and the coolant is at least 10 years old. maybe more.

for people like me who tend to drive hard, synthetic is a must, and the only reason i dont have it is because my engien leaks, it would be pointless for me to switch as i woudl waste more $$$ on more expensive oil...believe me, even with 145K, if my motor wasnt leaking all over the place, it would have Mobil 1 SuperSyn in it.

I forgot to add one more thing.

THEORETICALLY, you only need to change your oil once a year with synthetic, only change the filter every 3 months. however, i dont think i could do that, i am in the habit of 3,000 mile oil changes, and it was all i could do to stretch it to 10K on my contour. (YES i went 10,000 miles between oil changes, only changing the filter every 3,000 miles).

Same goes for you Gumart. switch over, you wont regret it!

EDIT: numbers edited, sorry for the confusion.

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I have always believed that oil changes where the cheepist form of insuring an engine. As such when I get a new car (new , new or new to me) I change the oil the first day I have it. I then change again at 2,000 that way I know I have clean oil in it. There after at every 3 months or 3,000 miles. I have thought about Moble 1 before but I have never made the change as I have been happy with dino oil to date. Moble one can be had for not that much more then a good grade dino, so it has not been that much of a cost thing. I just have not seen the need.

But I'm really rethinking it. If I do it I will do one change to moble 1, then go a short distance (1,000)n then do it again (oil and filter) to make sure I have 100% Moble 1.

Army, as you can read I have never believed in going mile after mile on any oil. Not even Moble 1. That is why I asked about going from 3,000 to 6000 between changes.

Now if I only get another 50 miles out of a tank of gas (I get about 450 now) I would be very happy. Also over 6,000 miles at $2.00 a gal of gas, I would save over $35.00.....

So the Moble1 would pay for itself.???? And I'll get better life and power.... I think it's time to stop thinking and just do...

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Now if I only get another 50 miles out of a tank of gas (I get about 450 now) I would be very happy.  Also over 6,000 miles at $2.00 a gal of gas, I would save over $35.00.....

So the Moble1 would pay for itself.????  And I'll get better life and power....  I think it's time to stop thinking and just do...

Or you could continue thinking and asking yourself these questions:

Are the owners and operators of the nations fleets of cars, trucks, and diesel trucks extremely cost conscious? Answer: Yes.

Have these owners and operators been testing and experimenting with synthetic oils on and off for the past 25 years? Answer: Yes.

Have a majority of these owners and operators concluded ordinary dinosaur motor oil is more cost effective than synthetic oil? Answer: Yes

Have alot of these owners and operators concluded that previously used and re-refined dinosaur motor oil is the most cost effective oil choice of all? Answer: Yes.

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Boys, boys, boys....yer floggin' a dead horse here. Y'all runnin' off at the mouth like a soup sandwich. Bunch a damn zealots, that's what.

Use what oil ya want, and don't pay no nevermind to anybody else.

Shoot, put all that energy to somethin' useful and we'd have world peace.....or maybe a nuclear conflagration, but it would be a dang sight more useful than this discussion.

Well I'll be dipped. Any oil whut give me 450 on a tank from 300, hell I'd buy that at ANY price. Hooooowheeee that's slippery stuff! Must be slicker than whale snot on an iceberg. Does it cure bad breath too?

I need a beer.

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I belong to several car discussion boards. Syn oil vs. Dino oil debates always stirs things up.

Here is my 2 cents.

Synthetic oil is superior to dino oil but this is not the bottom line question. The real question is, is it worth the extra cost?

I use Mobil 1. I consider it just a treat for the car, just like washing it and keeping it waxed. I justify the extra cost by

1) changing the oil myself.

2) Buying it on sale for $3.99/quart

3) Extending the change interval to 4000-5000 miles.

4) Joining the Mobil 1 Rewards club to get a $5 rebate per 6 pack..

You will never find an engine that has failed because the oil itself failed to lubricate it. Engines fail for all sorts of reasons but almost never because the oil itself failed. There are extreme cases where oil turns to sludge and the engine fails but this is an abuse situation where the oil has not been changed for YEARS.

As mentioned, industry has found synthetics to NOT be COST effective.

For us consumers, the best bet would be to use synthetics when the change interval is long, so the added cost is negligible. For example, synthetic makes a lot of sense for the differential and the transmission.

To say that the change to Mobil 1 caused the increase in mileage form 300 miles/tank to 450 miles/tank is not realistic.

Glenmore

1990 LS400

1991 MBZ 300CE

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In the 50's, 60's and early 70's - before synthetic oils were available - the fad of those times were "oil treatments". The oil treatment makers would simply get a Indy 500 race car driver to endorse their additive products and the 16-30 year olds would buy them and claim noticable gains in engine smoothness, fuel economy, durability, etc.

The additive makers never really needed to provide scientific proof their products significantly extended engine life and fuel economy because it was so easy to sell the 16-30 year olds without providing proof. The same situation exists today and has existed since 1975 in regards to synthetic oils. The 16-30 year olds have reliably and predictably turned out in droves to buy synthetic lubes even though the synthetic lube makers have failed to provide scientific proof their products significantly extended engine life and fuel economy.

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Well I'll be dipped.  Any oil whut give me 450 on a tank from 300, hell I'd buy that at ANY price.  Hooooowheeee that's slippery stuff!  Must be slicker than whale snot on an iceberg.  Does it cure bad breath too? 

I need a beer.

To say that the change to Mobil 1 caused the increase in mileage form 300 miles/tank to 450 miles/tank is not realistic.

sorry, meant 350, i was typing in the dark. and it wasnt just the synth probably, it was a full tune up i had just done too. sorryfor the confusion, i will go edit the post.

but if you still have an issue with me, take it up with me in PM's

I have offered my advice to the posters of this thread, along with my experience, take it or leave it, i'm out.

Peace.

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