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Spark Plug Wires


camlex
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Hello,

Since i am going change Valve cover Gaskets,Spark plugs etc.. I am thinking change Spark plug wires. Toyota selling their wires for $59 and Lexus Selling for $ 92

Aren't it same?

Should be. I got mine wires (OEM- Toyota) for around $44

Agreed....they should be the same. B)

:cheers:

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I just recently purchased spark plug wires for my 97' for $79 from lexus-parts.com.  I originally thought it was for a set of 2 wires but I learned that only 1 set of 3 is needed because of the coil over design?  I am not very technical about cars but how does this design work?  I am just curious!!

well lets say when cyc 1 will fire it will send the burst of spark down to the first spark plug and along the wire to the plug it goes with maybe 6, but i put some wires froma 1mz? or whatever camry v6 and our motors are and they have worked perfet.

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Can anyone tell me the process as to how to replace the plugs and the wire.  I asked a local shop and they said that on a lexus you have to tilt the engine in order to get to the last 3 plugs....

Mine is a 1995 ES300.

Thanks in advance

I will bump it up for ya since I do not know. I know my 98 took me about 20 minutes to do both plugs and wires.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Can anyone tell me the process as to how to replace the plugs and the wire.  I asked a local shop and they said that on a lexus you have to tilt the engine in order to get to the last 3 plugs....

Mine is a 1995 ES300.

Thanks in advance

Hi Ajay: I also have a 95 es300 and wanted to change the plugs and wires. Did you get any info back about how to do this? Thanks.

joeDag

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Can anyone tell me the process as to how to replace the plugs and the wire.  I asked a local shop and they said that on a lexus you have to tilt the engine in order to get to the last 3 plugs....

Mine is a 1995 ES300.

Thanks in advance

Tilt the motor? Goobers. That process works fine on most FWD GM cars with twin upper dogbone style mounts but not L/T/S products. First let me say it is tight. You need a spark plug socket attached to a 6" extension, attached to a universal, attached to a 4" extension, attached to a hand ratchet. Asseble the tools as I stated and it will make sense. Remove 10mm coil bolts on the front 3 and the coil primary wires. Lift the coils out replace the plugs. Back 3..... if you have wires going back like 96 and up don't install front coils yet. Earlier cars, use the 6" extension and universal with a 10mm socket to remove rear coil bolts. Reach under the plenum (big aluminum engine thingy that is in your way) from the passenger side and unsnap the coil primary leads. Twist the plug wire or coil depending on year, and lift. As you lift you will need to begin to pull it towards the passenger side. As it comes up all the way tilt it on it's side and bring it out from under the plenum. Are your arms scratched? Good you are doing it correctly. Assemble the plug socket onto the 6" extension and feed down onto the plug. Now put the universal on the 4" extension and conect it to the 6". Break the plug free with ratchet and before it is fully loose from the head, disconect the 4" extension from the 6. Twist the 6" with fingers and remove plug and tools. Reverse for assembly. To fully replicate real world conditions, drive the car 1/2 hour first so it is hot and have your wife standing over your shoulder asking why it is taking so long.

Regards, Mike

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I just recently purchased spark plug wires for my 97' for $79 from lexus-parts.com.  I originally thought it was for a set of 2 wires but I learned that only 1 set of 3 is needed because of the coil over design?  I am not very technical about cars but how does this design work?  I am just curious!!

We do it that way for emissions purposes. The design is called waste spark. When the plug fires to ignite the A/F mixture, it also fires the plug on the opposite cylinder that is at TDC exhaust stroke. This gives one last chance to burn any HC (hydrocarbons are unburnt or partially burnt fuel moleules). It makes the car cleaner out the tailpipe. The spark jumps from the rear plug ground eletrode to the center eletrode, up the plug wire, to the coil, down the coil lead, to the front plug center electrode and jumps to the ground eletrode. On cars with 100K or more on OEM plugs the front 3 plugs have severly worn center electrodes, while the back 3 plugs look great but have nothing left of the ground electrode.

Regards, Mike

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To fully replicate real world conditions, drive the car 1/2 hour first so it is hot and have your wife standing over your shoulder asking why it is taking so long.

Regards, Mike

Mike, you are too too funny and right on the money.

What do you suggest for mileage to change on an 2002. 60k, 75k, 90k miles, or when gas mileage takes a drop?

steviej

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To fully replicate real world conditions, drive the car 1/2 hour first so it is hot and have your wife standing over your shoulder asking why it is taking so long.

Regards, Mike

Mike, you are too too funny and right on the money.

What do you suggest for mileage to change on an 2002. 60k, 75k, 90k miles, or when gas mileage takes a drop?

steviej

Well it's not that tough and good platnium plugs are not to expensive so I would recomend every 60K, and fresh wires every 120k or 180k at the worst. As long as no oil gets on the wires they tend to last a long time. Take irridiums out to 90K. Wires are date stamped with the year and it amazes me how many 94 OEM wire set still run fine. When the GM lines were in the same store with us, wires might be good for 60K...if your lucky. Worst part was thier crappy wires lasted longer than the tranys. I made quite a few mortgage payments doing hydromatic O/H's.

Regards, Mike

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Can anyone tell me the process as to how to replace the plugs and the wire.  I asked a local shop and they said that on a lexus you have to tilt the engine in order to get to the last 3 plugs....

Mine is a 1995 ES300.

Thanks in advance

Tilt the motor? Goobers. That process works fine on most FWD GM cars with twin upper dogbone style mounts but not L/T/S products. First let me say it is tight. You need a spark plug socket attached to a 6" extension, attached to a universal, attached to a 4" extension, attached to a hand ratchet. Asseble the tools as I stated and it will make sense. Remove 10mm coil bolts on the front 3 and the coil primary wires. Lift the coils out replace the plugs. Back 3..... if you have wires going back like 96 and up don't install front coils yet. Earlier cars, use the 6" extension and universal with a 10mm socket to remove rear coil bolts. Reach under the plenum (big aluminum engine thingy that is in your way) from the passenger side and unsnap the coil primary leads. Twist the plug wire or coil depending on year, and lift. As you lift you will need to begin to pull it towards the passenger side. As it comes up all the way tilt it on it's side and bring it out from under the plenum. Are your arms scratched? Good you are doing it correctly. Assemble the plug socket onto the 6" extension and feed down onto the plug. Now put the universal on the 4" extension and conect it to the 6". Break the plug free with ratchet and before it is fully loose from the head, disconect the 4" extension from the 6. Twist the 6" with fingers and remove plug and tools. Reverse for assembly. Regards, Mike

Great post Mike. I actually did not know how to exactly remove the rear plug wires and plugs. I was surprised when my OEM Lexus repair manual did not mention at all on how to remove the back plugs. Thanks for providing the great directions. :cheers:

To fully replicate real world conditions, drive the car 1/2 hour first so it is hot and have your wife standing over your shoulder asking why it is taking so long.

lol... :D

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  • 1 month later...

I have a 93 es300 and was trying to replace the spark plugs. I got to the first one from the passenger side. Then the 2nd one up but not out of the cylinder. I just didn't have the clearence. I am thinking of taking the air intake plenum off to get to them. Has anyone else done this. What cables do you need to disconnect from the plenum?? Any Advice???

Thanks

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