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Optima Red Battery


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I got the battery tested at the dealership, and was told to replace it. I've been looking around and heard nothing but good things about Optima batteries. And i found one the other day and i was wondering if they will meet the needs of our cars? Its this model that i'm looking at: http://www.batteries.com/products/Vehicle_...ng_Battery.html

the CCA is about 150 more than the stock battery...will that affect anything?

its a pretty small battery, so i dont think the size is a concern. But i want to make sure that the electrical wont mess up if i dont use one that the dealer recomends. My last question is does anyone have one? Thanks for any input.

PS: I own a '98 GS 400

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I have an optima on all my vehicles, you need the red top reversed 800R <_<

I dont understand the point of this reversed business.. :blink: ..why not just turn the battery around??? I know this would make it difficult for the side posts to reach but, imports dont use them anyway. If anything it'll make it look cleaner.

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Alot of times the cables won't reach because the terminals are on the opposite side if you turn it around.

<_<

Current Conditions for Minneapolis, MN (55448)

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-7°F

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-21°F

UV Index: 0 Low

Dew Point: -12°F

Humidity: 73%

Visibility: 10.0 miles

Pressure: 30.39 inches and falling

Wind: From the West at 7 mph

I also have a optima red top I think it is R34 ? My car sits outside at work tonite for 10 hours and never a problem , My battery is going on three years old , The weather report is listed here.

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I think you are better off with the 34 size (34, 34R, 34/78).

http://www.batteries.com/products/Vehicle_...ng_Battery.html

It is a little bigger (and yet still smaller than OEM). you will have to play with the install a little to get it to fit. Among other things, the Optima is shorter than OEM so you will have a little problem using the OEM tie down.

As for 34 or 34R, I don't think it matters. The 34 will have the terminals near the back of the car like the OEM while the 34R will have the terminals closer to the front of the car.

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The first batt i mentioned is really the only one thats available to me locally. Their is also a yellow top, but it comes with a 1 year warrenty as oppose to 3 for the red and i've heard that the gel based yellow top do not perform as well in cold temperatures. So far this winter we've already seen temps as low as -30 degree celcius(i think about -20 F).

My question is still at large, sure the battery will work in a four banger civic, but what about my big V8s electrical??? will the alternator suffer any problems??

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agreed it will work easy

the yellow has a lower internal resistance to provide beutiful statring in codl weather whiule i watch otehrs struggle to turn their cars over

i have a yellow in both my cars ,the other one is a civic

it has been -20 here already with a beutiful dip for windchill of -40

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Thanks alot for all the replys. I'll probably go out and buy the battery once i get the chance.

agreed it will work easy

the yellow has a lower internal resistance to provide beutiful statring in codl weather

I'll look into this a little more. I read on a stereo fourm that that was one of the down falls of the yellow tops.

thanks again. :cheers:

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The red top has higher cold cranking amps. The yellow is a deep cycle. Both would prob do fine. This is a cut and paste from emails I had w/optima:

The Yellow D34 is the correct battery for your vehicle. You will also need

the G24 height adapter (part 242-0033) for hold down compatibility.

Thank you for your interest and support of Optima Batteries.

Optima Batteries

Customer Service

1800 292-4359

The Red Top would be fine for your stock application.

Thank you for your interest and support of Optima Batteries.

Optima Batteries

Customer Service

1800 292-4359

post-11467-1103945857_thumb.jpg

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If you have a stock car with just the stock accessories, go with the red top.

If you have a stock car with mild accessories (amp, subs, lighting) go with the blue top

If you have a stock car with lots of amps or hydraulics, go with a blue top up front and a yellow top in the back with an isolator and a upgraded alternator. Even though SK uses the yellow top for the main battery, I did the same thing in the begining. It's not really recomended if it's a deep cycle for use in a starting application. A deep cycle is designed to be discharged continously hence the lower internal resistance, When used as a starting battery it is continously being asked for large amounts of current and then recharged, never really deep cycled, so they tend to become conditioned and not last as long. B)

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  • 2 weeks later...

just wanted to thank everyone for your help. It fits perfect with the tray it comes with. Only problem is, i had to turn the battery around to match up pos and neg, which makes the side posts face the firewall. :rolleyes: doesnt bother me. starts on the dime so far, just waiting for some colder weather.

thanks again :cheers:

DSCN4331.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Well Im checking around and here is what Ive found.A guy at batteries.com said there was no red top for my app.A guy at batteriesareus.com said a needed a #800s battery and a bru11 height adapter.The battery was 124 and the adapter was 12.00.I discussed a reversed terminal with him and he said my car didnt call for one but when I said my positive was on the right he said maybe I should get one.So I guess my question is do i need an rev. or not and do I need this height adapter Id pay $12 if its going to look cleaner.

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I actually just put a optima red top battery in just a week ago in my 98 400 , yes the batter needs to be flipped around but you can't even tell anyways... Got it at autozone right down the street .

The GS 400 OEM battery is supposed to be rated at like 585 CCA , and the red top has 800 CCA . THIS DOES NOT HURT YOUR CAR if you do this. In fact it makes it take more of a load off of your alternator , making it more effiecient I would think.

It definitely seems to crank up immediatley, the lights seems brighter and more resilient. Maybe this is because it is getting a better power source.

However, one modification I had to do to get the battery cables to reach the battery was to raise the battery up about 3/4 inch, so that the cables could sit on the post completely. I did this by placing 2 wood shims on the front and back of the battery underneath it. You can get a whole pack of them at home depot or lowes for like 2 dollars. Since the shims are like an elongated triangle , you want to put 2 of them on top of each other with the fat ends in opposing directions so that it will be a flat , level surface. Then you put 2 of them in the bottom of the battery box toward the windshield, and two of them in the box closest to the front of the car. You sit the battery inside, install cables.

Then you tighten the bar down that goes across the top of the battery. If there is any play between the bar and the battery, you can put one of the plastic pieces that comes with the battery on the top of the battery on the side right underneath the bar and this will make it nice and snug no movement. The plastic pieces that come with the battery are universal mounts for like GM and Ford cars, and are meant to put on the bottom of the battery to hold it down. They work great when you put them on top under the bar to make it snug as well ! I only used one of the bars though and it was towards the bumper.

I went with the red top because it was cheaper than the yellow one, and because I have no yellow under the hood to match it. There is some red on the trd strut bar, and Rockford fosgate fuses , so the red on the battery ties it all together a little nicer.

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Ok so I bought a red top and she still wouldnt start.Im guessing a starter going out but there are a few thing s that dont add up.# yrs ago when the battery went dead the gauges would flash on ond off and it would click constantly when you tried to start it.Now when I found it dead everything light up as like normal and there was just a single click.Everytime I turned the key just a click.So I jumped it and it fired right up so I assumed it was the battery.I went and bought a red top installed it and just a single click everything worked and there was just a single click when you cranked it.So I put it in neutral and moved it back about a foot and turned the key and it tried to crank.It turned a few times then nothing like it had a week battery.So I moved it in neutral a little more and it started It didnt start strong it was kinda week but it started.Surely I didnt get a weak battery off the shelf.And even if I did moving the car should have made no diff. And I dont understand how moving it could effect the starter either.Can anyone make any sense of this?

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Make sure both battery terminal are tight! Make sure all wires connections to battery and grounds to the frame are good and tight. Make sure battery cables are not corroded inside. it's gotta be something simple like this. Which explains why it worked when you jumped it. <_<

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I lookes at all connection and there are no obvious signs of damage the connections are clean and look like new.Either I got a weak battery off the shelf or I need a starter.The only reason I think I might have gotten a weak battery is because when it finally cranked it was weak and when I turned on the lights it really brought the engine down but after i let it run for a minute then turned the lights on it was fine.I guess time will tell on the starter Im just going to take it and see.I had aguy tell me he had a 02 tundra that did the same thing and he put it in neutral moved it and it started right up and it ended up being the starter.I just dont see how rolling a car can effect the starter.

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