Voltage Drops

[VTONEY]

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHY MY VOLTAGE KEEPS DROPPING I HAVE A JL AUDIO 1000/1 MONO AMP AND 2 KICKER SOLO BARIC L7 12 INCHES SUBS AND MY VOLTAGE KEEPS DROPING , I CHECKED MY ALTERNATOR AND MY BATTERY AND THERE BOTH READING FINE DOES ANY ONE KNOW WHAT ELSE COULD CAUSE THIS toney_1@msn.com

[imtheking]

mono amp? hmm i would re-check my wiring on the amp and subs. Does the sound cut off? or does the voltage just drop? what happens when the voltage drops? but check your wiring first.

[92Lex]

Are you confirming the voltage drop through a digital cap or are you using a multimeter?

[SKperformance]

you say a voltage drop but when

and from where

how long

are you sure you are reading the meter right?

[TurboGS300]

Yes, the stock alternator sucks!!! It's only 80 amps. I finally went with a 200amp alternator with external regulator. Voltage is steady as a rock. Also if you have an under drive pulley you'll get no charging below 3 or 4000rpm. The car needs most of the alternator outpuT to run with accessories. Plus you lose %20 once the alt's hot. If that amplifier has a 40 or 60 amp fuse, you're pulling way more than the stock alternator can handle with all the other accessories.

[gompka]

Yes, the stock alternator sucks!!!  It's only 80 amps. I finally went with a 200amp alternator with external regulator. Voltage is steady as a rock. Also if you have an under drive pulley you'll get no charging below 3 or 4000rpm. The car needs most of the alternator outpuT to run with accessories. Plus you  lose %20 once the alt's hot. If that amplifier has a 40 or 60 amp fuse, you're pulling way more than the stock alternator can handle with all the other accessories.

←

I have a 1993 gs300.... i run a red top, a dry cell in the trunk and i run about 200+ amps on the amplifiers. My alt is fine my lights only blink while parked. My voltage never goes under 12.4 or so.

Try upgrading your wiring. Run an extra 4awg from your alternator to the battery, upgrade your ground wires.

Also could be your amp if i'm not mistake the jl 1000/1 is a class ab amp which is a monster on current draw.

www.sounddomain.com/id/gompka

[TurboGS300]

Yes, the stock alternator sucks!!!  It's only 80 amps. I finally went with a 200amp alternator with external regulator. Voltage is steady as a rock. Also if you have an under drive pulley you'll get no charging below 3 or 4000rpm. The car needs most of the alternator outpuT to run with accessories. Plus you  lose %20 once the alt's hot. If that amplifier has a 40 or 60 amp fuse, you're pulling way more than the stock alternator can handle with all the other accessories.

←

I have a 1993 gs300.... i run a red top, a dry cell in the trunk and i run about 200+ amps on the amplifiers. My alt is fine my lights only blink while parked. My voltage never goes under 12.4 or so.

Try upgrading your wiring. Run an extra 4awg from your alternator to the battery, upgrade your ground wires.

Also could be your amp if i'm not mistake the jl 1000/1 is a class ab amp which is a monster on current draw.

www.sounddomain.com/id/gompka

←

UMMM! 12.4 VOLTS means the alternator is not charging. All your currents coming off the battery at 12.4 cause the alternator can't keep up

[gompka]

Yes, the stock alternator sucks!!!  It's only 80 amps. I finally went with a 200amp alternator with external regulator. Voltage is steady as a rock. Also if you have an under drive pulley you'll get no charging below 3 or 4000rpm. The car needs most of the alternator outpuT to run with accessories. Plus you  lose %20 once the alt's hot. If that amplifier has a 40 or 60 amp fuse, you're pulling way more than the stock alternator can handle with all the other accessories.

←

I have a 1993 gs300.... i run a red top, a dry cell in the trunk and i run about 200+ amps on the amplifiers. My alt is fine my lights only blink while parked. My voltage never goes under 12.4 or so.

Try upgrading your wiring. Run an extra 4awg from your alternator to the battery, upgrade your ground wires.

Also could be your amp if i'm not mistake the jl 1000/1 is a class ab amp which is a monster on current draw.

www.sounddomain.com/id/gompka

←

UMMM! 12.4 VOLTS means the alternator is not charging. All your currents coming off the battery at 12.4 cause the alternator can't keep up

←

If it wasn't charging then my batteries would die. BTW forgot to mention the 12.4 is at the rear batttey after doing through 20 feet of 1/0 awg cable.

[TurboGS300]

Yes, the stock alternator sucks!!!  It's only 80 amps. I finally went with a 200amp alternator with external regulator. Voltage is steady as a rock. Also if you have an under drive pulley you'll get no charging below 3 or 4000rpm. The car needs most of the alternator outpuT to run with accessories. Plus you  lose %20 once the alt's hot. If that amplifier has a 40 or 60 amp fuse, you're pulling way more than the stock alternator can handle with all the other accessories.

←

I have a 1993 gs300.... i run a red top, a dry cell in the trunk and i run about 200+ amps on the amplifiers. My alt is fine my lights only blink while parked. My voltage never goes under 12.4 or so.

Try upgrading your wiring. Run an extra 4awg from your alternator to the battery, upgrade your ground wires.

Also could be your amp if i'm not mistake the jl 1000/1 is a class ab amp which is a monster on current draw.

www.sounddomain.com/id/gompka

←

UMMM! 12.4 VOLTS means the alternator is not charging. All your currents coming off the battery at 12.4 cause the alternator can't keep up

←

If it wasn't charging then my batteries would die. BTW forgot to mention the 12.4 is at the rear batttey after doing through 20 feet of 1/0 awg cable.

←

Doesn't matter, yes there is some voltage drop to the rear, but 12.4 means it's not being charged like it should. It should be 13.9 minimum, anywhere in the car. You obviously are putting way to much of a load on your alternator and it won't be lasting long. The dual batteries are not helping any. Just because it works, doesn't make it RIGHT!!! however, in this case it's just barely working.

[gompka]

Doesn't matter, yes there is some voltage drop to the rear, but 12.4 means it's not being charged like it should. It should be 13.9 minimum, anywhere in the car. You obviously are putting way to much of a load on your alternator and it won't be lasting long. The dual batteries are not helping any. Just because it works, doesn't make it RIGHT!!! however, in this case it's just barely working.

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13.9 anywhere in the car huh? you got your facts messed up man. 13.9 should be at main battery. Wire can drop your voltage by alot then there are accessories along the way and amps in the back. It'll never be 13.9 at the trunk. Your talking voltage here and not current. As long as your not having problems and your lights aren't blinking its fine. And it must be a good alt then cause almost 2 years now and its still running strong. :P Not trying to argue with you man what i have works and its fine and will last.

Any way vtoney you say your voltage drops but its fine at your battery? Where are you checking the voltage when it drops? And whas your system playing while you were checking the voltage at the battery?

I will still emphasis that you upgrade your ground wires and your alternator wires they help alot.

[TurboGS300]

So you say It will NEVER be 13.9 at the trunk and that a voltage drop of 1 to 2 volts is ok, ha! Mine is 14.2 at the main battery and at the trunk, looks like your whole theory just took a flying leap. I have a PPI 4800 and a US AMPS sub amp. probabaly around 1100 watts clean power total. My voltage may drop to 13.9 with the stereo cranked up almost all the way.

[#1gs300]

Doesn't matter, yes there is some voltage drop to the rear, but 12.4 means it's not being charged like it should. It should be 13.9 minimum, anywhere in the car. You obviously are putting way to much of a load on your alternator and it won't be lasting long. The dual batteries are not helping any. Just because it works, doesn't make it RIGHT!!! however, in this case it's just barely working.

←

13.9 anywhere in the car huh? you got your facts messed up man. 13.9 should be at main battery. Wire can drop your voltage by alot then there are accessories along the way and amps in the back. It'll never be 13.9 at the trunk. Your talking voltage here and not current. As long as your not having problems and your lights aren't blinking its fine. And it must be a good alt then cause almost 2 years now and its still running strong. :P Not trying to argue with you man what i have works and its fine and will last.

Any way vtoney you say your voltage drops but its fine at your battery? Where are you checking the voltage when it drops? And whas your system playing while you were checking the voltage at the battery?

I will still emphasis that you upgrade your ground wires and your alternator wires they help alot.

I would strongly have to disagree with u it is very possible to get 13.9v to the rear battery.atually the difference in vlotage would be .2 max if every thing is wired correctly and with the rear amps on.

[SKperformance]

I have to agree , my cap with a voltage meter on it registers at 13.5-14.3 volts consistently.

Even when my JL 500/1 is at full tilt and the car is idling the lowest i have seen it is 13.4

[Abear]

Looks like Ill be picking up a Multimeter from walmart after school tomorrow. Gotta check and see if my stuff is doing right.

[SKperformance]

Also if anyone is worried about voltage drops get a 1 farad cap at the minimum.