vcs and cel light come 5 seconds after starting engine. 99ls

[Abe Scott]

I had a DTC for bank1 sensor 1, and for the VVTI valve, I changed both cleared codes. The car ran great for a few days. I scanned, and I got the same codes.  I forgot there was a code misfire on the #8 cylinder. I also placed the coil, and there was not a misfire. Thanks in advance

Edited November 10, 2023 by Abe Scott
for got to ( thanks in advance)

[paulo57509]

I don't really understand what you're asking.  Getting repeat codes after parts replacement?  Can you post the exact codes you're getting?

Regarding the VSC light, when did it appear?  Did you have the battery disconnected?  Slip Warning icon or text message is appearing on the dash?  What's the text message read?  I was told that there are times when the VSC will shut off because of an engine issue and display a text message

[Abe Scott]

I apologize. This hopefully explains better, I have replaced VVT solenoids and an O2 sensor. According to the codes I got when scanning. I drove about 50 miles with no cel or VSC light. Then there they were again. I rechecked the codes and cleared them again. If I start, the engine cel and then VSC comes. I am thinking that I screwed up when replacing the bank one VVT solenoid. The solenoid was a little difficult to install. And I can't find the VVT filter. Maybe it was the resistance. 

 

[paulo57509]

The oil control valve (VVT solenoid) filter is under the front cam bearing cap.  In order to replace this filter requires getting access to the camshafts.

[Abe Scott]

Thank you! I hope to tackle it tomorrow.  The code I think was or is P1349 for Bank 1.

[paulo57509]

Before tearing down the engine to get to the filters, I was wondering if just removing the solenoids and spraying some Berryman B-12 or similar into the hole may clear the filter?  This is probably temporary at beat but it may give some indication that debris is the root cause.  Removing the filters isn't a quick job.

Make sure you clean off all the FIPG (silicone) gasket material from the cap and the cylinder head.  It needs to be this clean.  Be mindful of where and how much FIPG you apply.  Engine oil travels between the bearing cap holes and the bolts.  You don't want these passages to get plugged with FIPG.  Use a razor blade to remove the bulk FIPG and finish up with green scotchbright.  Don't gouge the aluminum; be careful with the scotchbrite - you don't want to warp the flat surfaces.  Be careful cleaning off the head - don't nick or touch the bearing journals.

Before starting this job, you need to get 4 seal washers (90210-07003); get extras in case you loose some.  These go under the cap bolt heads.  Unfortunately, you can't use just any seal washers because the cap bolts have reduced diameter shanks and regular seal washers will not seal.

The attachment might be helpful for re-assembly.

 

EM-57 Cylinder Head - Installation.pdf