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Trac Con Off/check Engine


SCfour

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while driving this morning on the way into work, they both randomly came on. i parked the car and wondered if they would reset after turning off, but both are still on. any ideas as to why this happened? i have seen a few posts with the trac control prob, but still a little puzzled. im gonna go by the dealership to have it checked out after work, but until then it will bug me..help!! BTW_the car is a 1993 SC400

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Sounds to me like one of two things. Either your ECU threw a code, in which case you can check the codes, figure what's wrong, fix it, reset the codes and you're good. (mine throws an O2 sensor code every once in a while, I just pull the EFI fuse for about 10 seconds and it's gone for another few months).

The other thing it could be is that your power steering pump has leaked fluid all over the alt, which has now pooched. I believe a dead alternator triggers the same lights. That you can check with a multimeter/voltmeter.

Good luck,

Aaron

p.s. LMK if you want to know how to check engine codes or the alt... all you need is a paperclip to check the engine codes.

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first off, thanks guys for the replies!

well, when i started the car afterwork to head home, the lights were still on. i was idling for about 2 minutes and they went off, and never came back on. before i ask anymore questions, should i still be concerned? or was the rain just having an effect on the TC?

what are some diagnostic things to look for to see if the TC is acting properly?

i think i am going to rule out the alternator or power steering issues because 1 the car keeps juice and started up just fine all night (so far at least) and the power steering was absoluetly normal on the way home. if i dropped fluid it would be noticeable.

again, crazy thanks fellas for all the help. im sure i will have plenty more for ya'll cus you seem pretty knowledgeable.. :cheers:

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1) make sure car is off

2) insert a bent paper clip into the terminals E1 and T1 I believe in the diagnostics port. On the '92 SC400 this is sitting on your intake manifold right at the front of the engine.

3) get in the car, turn key to ON, don't start the car though

4) the blinks will relate to a number, which relates to a trouble code...

eg:

blink..blink..blink..pause..blink..pause..blink..blink..blink..pause..blink..pause (code 31)

5) report back here, I don't have a service manual with the codes in it, but I've looked them up before, can't remember the address now though...

Also it's possible to have more than one code. In this case the computer would tell you the first code, a pause, and then the second code. For example a 13 and 21 would be like this...

blink..pause..blink..blink..blink..pause..pause..blink..blink..pause..blink..pause..pause..

I think that's how it works, I haven't check my codes in a couple months (no check engine light recently)

Aaron

p.s. There's a procedure for checking the A/C trouble codes as well, mine came back with a bad solar sensor and low system pressure.

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I get this problem too.

I just want to get the real issue addressed.

So is it the tc slipping, or is it the ecu? I just had my car diagnosed this past weekend, the mechanic said he cleared the code but my trac off and engine light just came on again and went off toward the end of the day.

I am actually a little bit afraid it is my alternator, alot of the times when I have left my car just there for maybe more than half hour, I get back and turn the key, I get nothing, second time is usually a charm but this morning it took 5 times. My mechanic could not find out what the problem was. Do I need a new battery? what is happening to my power?

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Check the codes, if you get an error code then it's likely not your alt or TC.

As for starting that's a whole other issue. A starter that doesn't like to engage is 99% of the time worn contacts in the starter solenoid. If the starter makes a single click when you turn the key to start, but you have to 'click' it a couple times to get the starter to turn, then the contacts in the solenoid are worn and they aren't letting power through to the starter. I have rebuilt about 4 different toyota starters without a rebuild kit, just bending and filing and sanding the contacts and they worked for longer than the cars did! :) but a rebuild kit is cheap, $20 or so, and usually comes with new contacts, brushes, and sometimes a bearing.

Good luck,

Aaron

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mine does it and im throwing codes 21 (main o2 sensor) and 28 (main o2 sensor and heater signal). i replaced both sensors, but the codes are still being thrown, so i think it might be the wiring.

Every once in a while I get a code 28, dunno if those are the after cat 02 sensors!?! Maybe it's trying to tell me my cats are getting stuffed. I dunno it only seems to happen when a tem change happens after I reset the ECU and it hasn't learned. Usually if I roll on the throttle. If I just go WOT it's fine, but rolling on the throttle triggers it sometimes.

One thing to make sure is that you've got a good ground to your exhaust. Not sure if the stock 4 or 5 wire sensors (dunno which they are) have a ground wire or if they rely on the current passing up the exhaust, through the manifold, through the bolts, through the heads, etc...

Aaron

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