scotturnot Posted August 28, 2004 Share Posted August 28, 2004 #1 & #2 (Below) Pics of the completed air-box. Basically it looks stock, note the use of the automotive push in trees to secure it and still give a stock appearance. The holes these push into are already in the front radiator-mounting wall so no drilling is required provided you get the correct size push in trees. Also, notice how I cut around the hood rubber bumper mounts to keep the hood fit proper and rattle free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 PIC 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 #3 (below) This is a picture of the top plate. Take care to make a good template out of poster board prior to cutting the plate. I chose to cut mine from black abs plastic (1/16” thick), you can obtain it from about any stereo shop, its easy to work with and looks good. Notice I used door edge guard where it fits up to the air-box, looks clean and provides a good seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 #4 (below) Here is a picture of the vertical filler panel I made. This too was formed from abs (thicker 1/8”). Make a poster board template again bending it where it needs bend. To do this you must have you air box installed for proper fit. Unfold it and cut out the panel. Now using a heat gun bend the abs to match your pattern. The bottom bolt is actually part of your air box mounting, you will need to sand 1/8” off of the bottom of the air-box mounting bushing to accommodate the panel thickness. The top is mounted to an exiting bracket thru an existing hole using a push in tree. Again no drilling required on your ride. Note use of door edge guard again for the seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 #5 and #6 (Below) This is the formed corner that goes underneath the headlight. This is actually the air tunnel for the intake. This is the toughest part of the build. Again I formed it from 1/8” abs plastic. The real dilemma here is to be able to cut your template so it actually sets against the bottom of the head light. It uses the bottom of the headlight as the forth wall of the tunnel to allow for the biggest amount of air flow. Again, you must use a heat gun to form it to match your template. The sunk in dimple in the corner was done by just heating up the abs and pressing in the car for a perfect fit around stock snorkel mount boss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 PIC 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 #7 (below) This picture is of the formed corner installed looking from the inside engine bay out front of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 #8 (below) This is the formed corner installed looking from the right side in. Notice the rivet securing it, this is the only hole you will need to drill. Again, the use of door edge guard for seal and anti rattle. See where the dimple comes into play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 #9 (below) Looking from headlight socket in, notice formed flap that directs airflow thru the opening up and over the harness bundle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 #10 (below) Here is the actual air box modification. I made an aluminum bracket to mount the top lid too. This is aluminum angle purchased from your local hardware store. Cut one leg where you need it to bend and bend it by hand. I riveted it to the box prior to cutting open the hole so I was sure not to cut too much. By the way, the bushing shown on the lower right corner is the one I referenced sanding off a 1/8”. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 #11 (below) This picture is a little difficult to follow at first. It is looking in the front air dam opening right below the tag mount. You remove the two stock fasteners to allow the plastic air director to be pulled down to open up a sort of air scoop in the front of the car. I used some aluminum tube that I threaded to Allow me to bolt to the plastic air shield so again no hole drilling was required. Tensing holds it up against the bushings. I am fortunate to have a 97 so I get the additional benefit of the factory grill bringing in additional air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 #12 (below) This is the last picture. It’s hard to see it good from a picture but here is an attempt. If you remove the filter (I used a K&N) and look out the front this is what you see. Notice how open it is, plenty of air getting in here! Later, Scott M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbarhorst2 Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 Nice job. Very clean install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theodore Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 CAn someone please explain to me why a BFI is better then just putting a regular open air cone filter with a heat sheild? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Curious Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 CAn someone please explain to me why a BFI is better then just putting a regular open air cone filter with a heat sheild? because you actually make power and its much much cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 Nice job.Very clean install. thanks, Scott M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 CAn someone please explain to me why a BFI is better then just putting a regular open air cone filter with a heat sheild? because you actually make power and its much much cheaper. Sure, not only does it bring in fresh cool air, but on top of that it actually forces air in. Its like ram air. AND 4 LESS $$$$$$$ Later, Scott M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theodore Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 why wouldnt i be makiing power with an open air filter like knN or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotturnot Posted August 29, 2004 Author Share Posted August 29, 2004 why wouldnt i be makiing power with an open air filter like knN or something like that. Here check out this link for better explanation- http://www.planetsoarer.com/#BFI later, Scott M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEAN_VANCE Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 Good job dude, it came out awesome and gave me some ideas to make mine better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theodore Posted August 30, 2004 Share Posted August 30, 2004 I check that link out, but i have an open air filter on now and im getting a heat sheild to keep out engine heat. and then all the air the filter is pulling in is from the bottom which is mainly cold. It seems to me the BFI does the same thing, nothing better or worse. Just that it may be cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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