GFunkError Posted July 19, 2004 Share Posted July 19, 2004 Hi guys, I am looking to get a 1992 SC400 with 131K miles on it from a dealer. The only issue the car seems to have is that the AC is blowing hot air. Is that a leak in the system do you think? They said a can of freon costs $40 and it'll probably need 3. What else should I be cautious about? I havn't bargained much but they are down to $4000 for it without the AC fix. Is this car a good buy at that many miles? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxdude3622 Posted July 19, 2004 Share Posted July 19, 2004 i dont know much about ac unit or repair, but i would say that the car is great buy with that many miles, i recently got a 92 sc400 with 114k miles for 8k, i would say the kelly blue book value on your car is around 7, so ac fixed or not it is a good deal how good of condition is the paint, engine etc. in?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GFunkError Posted July 20, 2004 Author Share Posted July 20, 2004 The exterior is in excellent shape. I had my friend who owns a 1999 SC400 test drive it and he said the car drove really well. He did notice stains around and on the carpet and we figured that it had water damage. I took it into Toyota for a diagnostic and I'll know tomorrow if anything else is broken. The service technician did say that SC400's are very solid cars. I checked carfax and it seems like the car had two owners. The interior was pretty dirty(I saw the car the day it got traded in) and the drivers side seat's leather is really worn out and torn in places. But I think a good shampoo and detail on the car will make it look like new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soarer479 Posted July 20, 2004 Share Posted July 20, 2004 sounds like a great buy be careful about the ac though there are alot of things that could be wrong on a 92 and could cost alot to be fixed and as for the seats you can usually take some amourall leather cleaner and protector to it and they come out nice if there are tears your concerned about there are shops that will repair leather for fairly cheap and others where you can have your intire interrior re-wrapped for usually around $1000 but good luck with your purchase im sure you wont be dissappointed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GFunkError Posted July 20, 2004 Author Share Posted July 20, 2004 Ok so the issue they said is the evaporator. Their cost is $645 to fix it at the Toyota Dealership. Is it worth it or can I get it fixed for cheaper? I pulled up some evaporator costs on the net and they range from 250 to 450 without labor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soarer479 Posted July 20, 2004 Share Posted July 20, 2004 you can always find better prices than the dealer call around to a few local shops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GFunkError Posted July 21, 2004 Author Share Posted July 21, 2004 is there like a conversion kit for the AC? to go from the old freon based system to a more modern one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soarer479 Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 i think there may be but im not too sure im not exactly an AC specialist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GFunkError Posted July 22, 2004 Author Share Posted July 22, 2004 Alright so I got it yesterday and drove home 50 miles away. It was a completely exhilirating experience!! I also found out that it has a Premium sound system and a 12 disc changer. I opened the center arm rest, and there was a cell phone for the car! I think I might actually keep this car for a while. I need new tires for it, what size are the stock wheels? 15's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2XLexV8 Posted July 23, 2004 Share Posted July 23, 2004 Good Evening, Any A/C work should include a conversion to R134a. R12 is just too expensive. I converted mine with a new receiver/drier for around $125. The new part is best because you want all the old oil out of the system before the conversion and also the ability to get any moisture out after. SC300 are 15" stock wheels, SC400s are 16" Look within the SC forums for common problems, tips and tricks. You may find you have more items to look at. Many small shops can cost less $. Something to check first is that they're using the same parts, and the warranty on their work. If all the parts are aftermarket/no brand name, and no workmanship guarantee, maybe it's not a bargain. Good Luck :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GFunkError Posted July 23, 2004 Author Share Posted July 23, 2004 Thanks for the advice 2XlexV8. I was doing some reading on the R134a. It seems like it doesn't cool as much (which I don't care much about) but it also seems to blow the condensor which is a higher cost repair. When you say receiver, is that the same as a condensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2XLexV8 Posted July 24, 2004 Share Posted July 24, 2004 Good Evening, The major parts of an A/C system: - Compressor (Motor driven part) - Receiver/drier (Temporary storage and removes moisture) - Expansion valve (Regulator - controls rate of gas flow) - Condenser (Gets rid of heat. Sits in front of radiator) - Evaporator (Where the gas expands and removes heat from interior) There are other minor parts and variations on this theme. When an R12 system is converted, most people take the cheap way out: remove the old gas, stick in the new. This can cause several problems: - Dessicant in the drier breaks down, clogs the expansion valve - Excess moisture in the system (because the drier doesn't work), corrodes the insides of nearly everything - Old oil not completely removed. The resulting contamination of the new oil causes compressor problems. - Air in the system. Blows the compressor, or-over pressurizes the condensor, taking advantage of any weaknesses in it. - No or incomplete vacuum test before conversion. This test identifies minor leaks before you go through the process of refilling the system. - Overfilling with R134a. The pressures are more important than the number of pounds of gas you put in. This is why someone with a manifold set (who can read it), as well as knowing the specs of your car gives you the best chance of success. R134a doesn't cool as well as R12; but a trained tech will set your pressures so that you'll have to work at knowing it. We haven't mentioned that a '92 is a 12-year-old car, where any part could fail at any time. Some dealerships and A/C shops will recommend new "O" rings; checking hoses; replace the expansion valve, use a conversion kit with sealer, etc. Each has it's good points and risks. Get a second opinion because it's your money. In my experience, a system that had any R12 pressure in it at all will normally perform OK after a proper conversion. It's been in the high 90s regularly here; and our converted A/C keeps us comfortable with the auto temp set at 73. 92 SC400, only new part was the receiver/drier. I hope it wasn't too much information. Good Luck :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedking Posted July 25, 2004 Share Posted July 25, 2004 I got my A/C system converted on my '94 SC from R12 -> R134A for $225 including labor at my local A/C shop. If you would like some new/cooler wheels, I can help you out: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...threadid=127224 and Supra Twin Turbo wheels fit as well: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...threadid=127567 Good luck with the new SC....they are fun cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobsvilla Posted July 25, 2004 Share Posted July 25, 2004 One of the problems that gets overlooked when converting R12 to R134a is that the molecules of R134a are a lot smaller than R12 and will eventually leak thru the rubber hoses meant for R12. R134a systems use neoprene hoses. There is a product called "Duracool" do a search on google to find a supplier. Duracool is based on a propane derivetive, similar to whats been used in Europe for many years. It is heavier than R12, cools better than R12 and only costs about $7 a can and most systems will only need 2 cans. You don't have to change anything (unless parts defective) it is compatible with both R12 & R134a. ....b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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