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Posted

I asked this before and didn't really get a reply, so I'm gonna ask again before throwing up my hands and going to the dealer. It's summer right now, so I don't usually worry too much about the traction control, though I do prefer to have it off (it sucks to have your wheels fail to spinf when you're trying to peel out). But now, when I press the 'TRAC Off' button, nothing happens. Not only does the TRAC system not disengage, but the button won't even click in to place. The dash light doesn't come on and even when I push the button firmly, it fails to click in and stay depressed. This leads me to believe that it could be the button and not the whole system, though that may just be wishful thinking on my part. If any of you have any ideas or have encountered this issue before, leet me know, because right now I'm a little stumped. I guess the next step is to take out the switch and make sure there's nothing obviously broken on that. If anyone's done this....

  • Like 1
Posted

Well, this won't be much help, but for what's it's worth, I'm having the same problem on my '92, except the light won’t go off (meaning trac control won't come on). Similar to your problem, my switch does not click or appear to engage. When I asked the dealer about it at a recent visit, they informed me the “Trac Accumulator” (which I gather is the brains behind the system) had gone bad and I needed a new one at a cost of about $800. I passed. Would be curious to know if you find a fix though. Good luck!

  • Like 1
Posted

When you first start your car (after it's been running for about 10 seconds... is the TRAC OFF light still on, inside the dash board? Or does the light just turn off and on when ur driving? And when you press the TRAC button, it's not suppose to click or anything, it's very light, requires little pressure. It's probably lighter than the cruise control button and it isn't meant to stay depressed in the 1992 Lexus or of any that i am familiar with.

  • Like 1
Posted

Grandpa is correct. i have a 94 just like Wucantstop and the button does not click or stay in and is not supposed to. the "trac off" button works list like the stereo system: push the volume knob in and it will come out back to where it was originally and the stereo will turn on. to add to what grandpa also said, when you first turn the key to "on", the "trac" light should come on in the middle of the speedometer and turn off after a few seconds. this is the system doing a self check. the "trac off" light should also turn on and off at the bottom of the dash when the key is turned to on. if neither of these lights illuminate, you have internal traction control problems just like jakeroux.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for all of your input. I haven't had the TRAC Off button functional since winter so I forgot that it didn't remain depressed the way the heated seat buttons do. The hopeful thing about my problem, which I forgot to mention before, is that all the diagnostic lights are normal when I turn my car on. The TRAC and TRAC OFF lights illuminate momentarily, with the rest of the dash lights, and then go off. Also, I'm positive the TRAC is working normally, because when I try to peel out, I'll feel the wheels stop spinning and the TRAC light will come on. Since it seems like all's normal with system, doesn't it seem like I should just be able to get a new switch or something?

Posted
Since it seems like all's normal with system, doesn't it seem like I should just be able to get a new switch or something?

not from the dealer you wont. it is highly unlikely that the dealer would ever sell just a switch. its like when i wanted to fix my ashtray. when u push on my ashtray when its closed, it doesn't spring out and open like its supposed to. i have to pry it out with a coin every time i want to use it. all that is required to fix my ashtray is a spring. the dealer said "NO". they would have to sell me the whole ashtray assembly which costs about $350 plus labor (i declined and am sticking with the coin trick). if you are good with cars and think u can DIY, i would take apart the dashboard/console (whatever its called where the switch is) and maybe you can clean the contacts or something. or better yet, you might discover that the wire simple got unplugged from the switch and thats it. i honestly dont know how complicated the dashboard/console is but it makes sense to me.

Posted

1UZF, you were right again! I disassembled my entire front dash last night to change the bulbs in the climate control to blue LEDs (which are cool, by the way, and I'm trying to find blue bulbs for the heated seat and TRAC buttons, which are burnt out and should be blue to match the rest) and lo and behold, the wire was completely unplugged from the 'TRAC Off' button. So, now the fix was FREE and the TRAC is back on track. Sorry for the corny pun, but I figured we needed some from the younger members. Anyways, thanks for your help all and now I'm gonna go drive around with my TRAC off just for fun and let the wheels spin all over the place.

Posted

wow. great to hear that. i had no idea if that could even be the problem. it was totally just a guess....i mean yea, i told you so. im always right and i know everything. jk. but really tho, i simply guessed! good job wu!

  • 13 years later...
Posted

I have a 1994 Lexus Ls400 that doesn't come with a traction control botton. It doesn't want to spin the tires what so ever. Please help. 

  • 4 years later...
Posted
On 6/14/2018 at 9:50 PM, LS400_Gio said:

I have a 1994 Lexus Ls400 that doesn't come with a traction control botton. It doesn't want to spin the tires what so ever. Please help. 

Put that girl in power mode and low gear (first) and hold the brakes firmly. Rev up the car and blip the brakes then get right back on em. If that don’t spin your tires toss some water under your rear tires to help em slip easier.  But it’s kinda lame to have to get out and pour some water everytime you want to burn some rubber. I have the same year, with no “TRAC OFF” button either. Have had a few successful burnouts but gettin both wheels to lock up is tough. Sadly without a welded diff/LSD I don’t believe any ucf10 can burn rubber easily, with first gear being so long. 

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