pishta

Prob just need to replace the cap gasket:
http://www.lexls.com...lcapgasket.html

What exactly does the gasket do , vent pressure at a certain point?

My wifes 91 LS400 gets a hesitation every now and then and she swears that venting the gas tank by loosening the filler cap fixes it. I have done that too and was suprised by how much pressure builds up in there. Is the vent in my cap malfunctioning or is the vent in the tank? If you unscrew the cap like you are going to gas it up, itll "exhale" audibly for about 4 seconds. Is this normal?

reply

That sounds very inexpensive. Let me know if they work.

Awesome.  Glad I could help.

Just did mine, it is a pleasure to drive again. No noise from the front suspension going over small bumps and undulations in the road. I was getting a "something is loose up there" noise whenever I went over a n oticeable bump. I took mine off, checked them out and didnt really see anything wrong, but the ball joint was as loose as a joystick on a Pacman game. I couldnt feel any play in it but I couldnt put as much force on it as the car does. about 90 minutes total, the first side being 60 of those. I am very happy the shock didnt need to be compressed to be pulled, that would have been a bummer. I would like to advise that if you are doing one side at a time, you need to unbolt the swaybar link so the lower control arm can be lowered enough to unstress the shock and get the bolt out. Otherwise you are working on a still compressed shock, dangerous. Another hint. REuse the original castle nut as the one supplied is thinner and ends up above the cotter pin hole, rendering the cotter pin useless at retaining the nut torque, Or use a washer as stated before. I am going to try and replace the ball joint with a shelf item just to see if I can as the bushings are still tight.

I recently purchased a 1995 LS400. When I test drove it, no issues. When I was driving it home, I was getting on the highway, kicked the accelerator down, and the car started sputtering and jerking, almost like it was running out of gas. It stopped when I let off the accelerator. No Check Engine light. The next morning, exact same circumstance with the same result. Later in the day, I took it to my mechanic to check out. I duplicated the problem, but this time, it sputtered no matter what the speed. The timing belt, water pump, plugs, wires, TPS, MAF sensor, fuel filter, and fuel pump were all recently replaced. Still no codes. Any ideas where to look? BTW, the check engine light does not light up with the key in the on position. Will this not allow a scanner to give code due to break in the circuit?

So...it actually ended up being a bad Engine Control Module. Got it rebuilt for $350. Now the check engine light is on and showing a bad knock sensor. I took a look under the intake and saw the lead wire on #1 knock sensor is broken away from the plug completely. Would this cause an intermittent "miss"?

Knock sensors are pretty cool. They "listen" for preignition (knock) and when they hear one, they retard the spark a little to correct the problem. The bad knock sensor (disabled) is most likely either causing a "knock" signal to be transmitted to the ECU and that is unneccessarily retarding your spark, cutting power and going to a default "limp" mode as it cant clear the perceived knock, OR it is never sensing the knocks and is allowing the ECU to advance the timing to a dangerous knock level that will eventually destroy rod bearings and pistons. With todays electronically controlled ignition timing, you need these sensors to work properly for designed performance.