AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Looking to sell my 2003 GS300 sport design

4 posts in this topic

IMG_8545.thumb.JPG.39bf70a557e1def068f2e10ba50501f5.JPGHi. I'm looking to sell my 2003 GS300 dark gray sports design model 116k miles (clean interior). I don't know too much about fixing this car (AC, CV boots, door locks). it was in a little accident two months ago. How much should I sell this for? I'm getting a lot of different prices for this because there is a big demand for this particular model, but then there are some stuff that need to be fixed. I'm hoping $5300. My BF is trying to help me sell this car, but he is no help at all. :-(. Thanks for reading into this post. 


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear about the accident; hope everyone was okay. I'm not as familiar with the GS models, but I thought I would chime in.

I don't know if there are options that are listed to come with the Sports design model, but it would be helpful if you listed what the car is equipped with (optional alloys, leather seats, heated seats, Mark Levinson stereo system, rear spoiler, etc?). Also, how rare is the Sports design model? What makes it different from a regular GS 300?

The biggest problem that you have is the front end damage. If someone wants to fix the car, they need to replace at least the front bumper, front bumper trim, hood, and grille. If the damage is bad enough, the radiator fans, radiator, and the radiator core support need to be replaced too. Does the car still drive without overheating?

Do you have a picture of the front of the car with the hood open? If the core support is damaged, it could be tough to get beyond $3500 - $4000 for the car, because repairs could be at least $2k-$3k to weld a new support in, replace all of the parts, and blend the paint.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks so much for your reply, CELSI0R. The car was already fixed. The top picture with the "wow" is how the car looks after the repair. Only thing under the hood that needed replaced was the radiator. Everybody that saw this car loved this model and color, but suggested that $5000 would be too high, considering the damage and what need to be fixed. I am thinking of just selling it for $4000. This 14 year old car has $116k miles. It's got leather heated seats in extremely good condition (never had kids or animals in this car). There are wood trims on doors and front area and steering wheel. Rear spoiler. Basically, this car looks perfect, but it's the basic car maintenance repairs that need to be done and I don't want to deal with them at this point since I have the new car. I got the new RC F, which I'm extremely excited about, and I just need this GS off my property ASAP. I haven't posted the ad on Craigslist yet and I already have two guys wanting to buy it this weekend. I think I'll have them go through bidding war amongst each other. 🤣 

1 person likes this

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, okay. I was confused by the images and thought the car was still damaged.

After conducting further research, sites such as Kelley Blue Book value the car at around $4k in 'Good condition,' while an appraisal for a GS Sport design model in 'Very Good condition' is valued near $4.5k.

Considering you had the repairs completed and that the job looks like it was done very well, $5k does not sound like a bad asking price. However, I would be hesitant to go below $4k, because basic maintenance (fluids and filters) is relatively inexpensive and the car has low miles. If you list it for $5k or sell it this weekend, you could try to get the buyer to meet you in the middle at $4.5k, while keeping $4k as your lowest price.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By jehmin
      Is250 2006 150K RWD A960E Transmission
      Started with Transmission Codes after a dealer CSP of carbon cleaning. These two incidents could be completely unrelated. But then again there is evidence of other users with similar instances.
      Initial problems was Torque Converter Problem / VSC which transformed into my car getting stuck in 3rd gear and not going to the higher gears. RPM will be very high. This might be called a limp or safe mode to allow the car to drive. Codes P2757 and P0761
      After much reading . I changed TCC and SLU solenoids along with a ATF filter and fluid change. Enough to get the color to change from black to something more red. Parts 35210-50010 (SL1/TCC) and 3528030050 (SLU)
      After the replacement car shifted smoother and the Torque converter code went away. But still not going out of 3rd sometimes. Code changed to
      P2714 and P0761 Solenoid C stuck off
      Iv checked the resistance of each solenoid and it was within the literature value of a certain Manuel or about 0.2 Ohms higher than high operating value. I thought this was ok? As the new part I got for the TCC was also 0.2 higher. I also used techstream to command each solenoid to perform. In most cases I can hear a faint sound when each is activated. Wish it has the pressure value of each solenoid ( I couldn’t find it on my version of TS)
      The only other steps outside of a new transmission would be ( none of which were said to be a definitive solution)
      Change transmission wire? ( how would one check this to know if its ok?)
      Replace Solenoid C 3524050030
      Replace SLT 3529034010
      Update Calibrations for transmission ( My dealer will not offer this said it won’t do anything)
      Does anyone have experience with these issues or have a solution?
    • By Dray81
      So im just wondering if im seeing this right .....i have been bitten by the apparent lexus goblin response from gas pedal until the very bottom and search google found this cool site and posts from as far back as 2011 i believe and although i may have missed it NO SOLUTION....plenty of remedys and band aids but no real fix and lexus has been having these same problems with their cars from 98 to i think i saw someone post about a 2011 with the problem ...and still no solutions ...really? Or did i just miss them lol
    • By Greenhouse
      Hello Lexus drivers,
      I am driving on my Michelin winterset because i couldn't find something easy to mount for this summer. As you understand, my Michelins are loosing mm's very very fast so i am in a hurry here to change them.
      I drive a Lexus GS300 from 2004. Its still the old model though. No lowering at this point. 
      Recently i found some very cool Ronal Startech's in 20 inch, 9j and ET35. 
      The big question here is: Do they fit??
      Here's a picture of the actual rimm. 

    • By ridgwayk
      I know this is a long shot, but is there any out of the box solution to allow music to be played with minimal changes to the existing radio so music could be played from a USB thumb drive...I don't see a USB port and there's apparently no way to play music via BT.
      I have taken the car to the stereo shop and I have a cable that plays a very old version of iPod via AUX port...Was hoping to do something more simple with a USB if possible.
    • By Esperar13
      I have a 98 GS300 that I recently acquired with an electrical problem. It had about 6 to 8 blown fuses in the panel under the dash. Also, the previous owner hooked jumper cables up backwards and melted a big fuse under the hood (I think it was a 120A fuse for the alternator) it has a new fuse pushed down on top of the old one. I'm guessing I will probably have to replace the whole fuse panel under the hood. Anyhow, when I replaced the blown fuses under the hood (for wipers, ignition, radio, and I can't remember which others), the car started and ran, but the wipers won't turn off unless I disconnect the switch. The wipers are on the biggest fuse, and I'm thinking that maybe there is a short between the wiper circuit and the others with blown fuses, and since the the wipers have a much higher amp draw it is causing the smaller fuses to blow and giving power to the wiper circuit where it shouldn't be. I looked under the dash and hood and I can't see anywhere where the wiring harness is damaged. The plastic loom is intact throughout. I think my next step will be to pull the loom off and see if the wires have gotten hot and melted the insulation off. Has anyone seen this problem before? This is my first Lexus. Thanks in advance!