AdBlock WarningParts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.
4 posts in this topic
Is250 2006 150K RWD A960E Transmission
Started with Transmission Codes after a dealer CSP of carbon cleaning. These two incidents could be completely unrelated. But then again there is evidence of other users with similar instances.
Initial problems was Torque Converter Problem / VSC which transformed into my car getting stuck in 3rd gear and not going to the higher gears. RPM will be very high. This might be called a limp or safe mode to allow the car to drive. Codes P2757 and P0761
After much reading . I changed TCC and SLU solenoids along with a ATF filter and fluid change. Enough to get the color to change from black to something more red. Parts 35210-50010 (SL1/TCC) and 3528030050 (SLU)
After the replacement car shifted smoother and the Torque converter code went away. But still not going out of 3rd sometimes. Code changed to
P2714 and P0761 Solenoid C stuck off
Iv checked the resistance of each solenoid and it was within the literature value of a certain Manuel or about 0.2 Ohms higher than high operating value. I thought this was ok? As the new part I got for the TCC was also 0.2 higher. I also used techstream to command each solenoid to perform. In most cases I can hear a faint sound when each is activated. Wish it has the pressure value of each solenoid ( I couldn’t find it on my version of TS)
The only other steps outside of a new transmission would be ( none of which were said to be a definitive solution)
Change transmission wire? ( how would one check this to know if its ok?)
Replace Solenoid C 3524050030
Replace SLT 3529034010
Update Calibrations for transmission ( My dealer will not offer this said it won’t do anything)
Does anyone have experience with these issues or have a solution?
So im just wondering if im seeing this right .....i have been bitten by the apparent lexus goblin ....no response from gas pedal until the very bottom and search google found this cool site and posts from as far back as 2011 i believe and although i may have missed it NO SOLUTION....plenty of remedys and band aids but no real fix and lexus has been having these same problems with their cars from 98 to i think i saw someone post about a 2011 with the problem ...and still no solutions ...really? Or did i just miss them lol
Hello Lexus drivers,
I am driving on my Michelin winterset because i couldn't find something easy to mount for this summer. As you understand, my Michelins are loosing mm's very very fast so i am in a hurry here to change them.
I drive a Lexus GS300 from 2004. Its still the old model though. No lowering at this point.
Recently i found some very cool Ronal Startech's in 20 inch, 9j and ET35.
The big question here is: Do they fit??
Here's a picture of the actual rimm.
I know this is a long shot, but is there any out of the box solution to allow music to be played with minimal changes to the existing radio so music could be played from a USB thumb drive...I don't see a USB port and there's apparently no way to play music via BT.
I have taken the car to the stereo shop and I have a cable that plays a very old version of iPod via AUX port...Was hoping to do something more simple with a USB if possible.
I have a 98 GS300 that I recently acquired with an electrical problem. It had about 6 to 8 blown fuses in the panel under the dash. Also, the previous owner hooked jumper cables up backwards and melted a big fuse under the hood (I think it was a 120A fuse for the alternator) it has a new fuse pushed down on top of the old one. I'm guessing I will probably have to replace the whole fuse panel under the hood. Anyhow, when I replaced the blown fuses under the hood (for wipers, ignition, radio, and I can't remember which others), the car started and ran, but the wipers won't turn off unless I disconnect the switch. The wipers are on the biggest fuse, and I'm thinking that maybe there is a short between the wiper circuit and the others with blown fuses, and since the the wipers have a much higher amp draw it is causing the smaller fuses to blow and giving power to the wiper circuit where it shouldn't be. I looked under the dash and hood and I can't see anywhere where the wiring harness is damaged. The plastic loom is intact throughout. I think my next step will be to pull the loom off and see if the wires have gotten hot and melted the insulation off. Has anyone seen this problem before? This is my first Lexus. Thanks in advance!