AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.




Spartan0536

Lexus LS400 Modernization Project

Recommended Posts

Hello fellow Lexus owners,

I recently purchased a 1992 Lexus LS400, it has the nakamichi sound system but 3/4 of the speakers are shot, the head unit is dead, the Subwoofer still works great and the 5 disk CD changer is still functional. I purchased this car for $1000 (USD), it has 86K miles on it, was garage kept, 1 owner verified, a rare find.

I am calling this "Project Revolution" as its going through a technological revolution.

 

Here is what I am doing...

Body:

1. NO BODY KITS

2. NO RIMS (unless the 16 inch stock Lexus chrome rims will fit from a 1993 Lexus LS400)

3. NO Repaint, just minor repair work on some scuffed areas

4. Professional detailing (completed, looks great BTW)


Exterior Lighting:

1. Brake, Stop, Reverse, Turn, & Corner light will all be incandescent bulbs, Crystal Vision Ultra's, this is to keep that pesky light out error from lighting up on my display

2. Parking, & License Plate lights replaced with Sylvania ZEVO LED's (completed)

3. Fog lights - permanent mod (smashing the yellow glass) and replacing with Hella Extreme White XB bulbs (completed)

4. Headlights - currently using PIAA Extreme White 9004 bulbs (yes I paid $80, and they are brighter & whiter than stock), considering an LED headlight upgrade, possibly GTR Gen 3


Interior Lighting:

1. Footwell lights replaced with LED's (on backorder)

2. Glovebox replaced with LED (on backorder)

3. Dome light replaced with ZEVO LED (completed)

4. Personal/Map lights replaced with LED's (on backorder)

5. Door lights replaced with ZEVO LED (Completed)

6. Trunk Light replaced with ZEVO LED (Completed)

 

Interior Modifications:

1. Send out instrument cluster to Tanin Auto Electronix for diagnostic and LED upgrade (also replace Odometer as it just recently stopped working, and yes I have been tracking the miles)

2. Send out A/C controls to Tanin Auto Electronix for repair and LED upgrade (completed, LED upgrade: LCD - Cool White, Button Backlighting - Bright White, Indicator LED - OEM Green)

3. Replace stock entertainment system (stereo).....

Head Unit/Reciever - Kenwood eXcelon DDX594
Front Speakers - Pioneer TS-D1330C (5 1/4") component speakers /w crossover
Rear Speakers - Pioneer TS-D1302R (5 1/4") coaxial speakers
Subwoofer - Stock Pioneer 8" subwoofer (If I were to replace it, I would go with a Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8" Low Profile Subwoofer, they are around $70)

Amplifier - undecided, not sure if I need one
Wiring - High Quality 12 gauge wiring

4. Recondition or reupholster the leather as required (currently looks like it just needs reconditioning)

 

Performance Mods:

1. Detail the engine bay (completed, took me 5 hours by hand)

2. Replace Air Filter with K&N & clean IAC & Throttle Body

3. Full Synthetic Valvoline 5W-30 oil with a Bosch Premium filter (completed)

4. Flush & replace Power Steering, Brake, and Transmission fluids with Full Synthetic fluids (completed)

5. Replace brake pads & inspect rotors & calipers (replace/re tune if needed)

6. POSSIBLY replace rotors & calipers with StopTech slotted and drilled kit (not sure if its really needed)

7. Replace cap, rotor, ignition coil & plug wires with OEM+ quality cap, rotor, coil & wires

8. Replace Spark Plugs with NGK Iridium IX

9. Install strut tower braces for less body roll

10. Replace current Michelin A/S Primacy MXV4 tires with Cooper CS5 Ultra Touring tires

11. Flush & replace engine coolant (completed)

12. Professional intake and fuel cleaning service

 

Here are my questions:

1. Do I need an amplifier for my sound setup, and what do you think about the Pioneer D line of speakers. Keep in mind I am going for SQ and will be using the 13 band EQ and DTA in the receiver to ensure sound quality. I am NOT going for bass overdrive or loudness, just quality lows from the sub, and quality mids & highs from the speakers.

2.  Is it possible to use the 1993-1995 LS400 16 inch rims on my 1992 LS400 or is it a different pattern?

3. I have heard some complain about the brakes on the 1st generation LS400's, is this something I should be concerned about or is it just nitpicking?

4. LED Headlights, whats your take on it, and I am not talking about the $90 Ebay/Amazon Chinese knockoff ones. If I am replacing these it will be with a $150+ set using Philips LumiLEDS.

 

Thanks for taking the time to read this, I look forward to hearing back from you regarding this project.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I can confirm 1993-2000 LS 400 rims all fit on the 1990-1992 LS. However, since they are 16 inch, the tires you will need to buy to get the same overall circumference as the originals will cost more. The tire size for 1993-2000 LS 400 models have a larger circumference overall, leading to inaccurate speed readings on 1990-1992 models.

Changing the 1st gen brakes are more or less nitpicking. 1993-1994 have larger rotors and calipers, which makes braking stronger (this means you will need to change to 16" rims). Although, the dual piston calipers fitted on 1991-1992 models are very good. 1990 models have single piston calipers.

Looking forward to seeing and reading about these updates!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info on the rims... inaccurate speed readings are something I would rather avoid, this could lead to speeding tickets and that puts a hamper on funding and raised insurance rates, no beuno.

BTW is the shifter supposed to have some wobble to it or do I need to tighten the linkage, I noticed that and forgot to mention it earlier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah. I've had a set of 1993-1994 rims for years, but never put them on for the same reasons.

In terms of the shifter, as long as it doesn't wobble as if it's going to move into the next gear, it should be fine. Mine wobbles a little when sitting in any gear, but it's very minimal travel (a milimeter or two each way). You can tighten the linkage if you want to, but if it's not causing any problems now it should be fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the headlights, look online for the "Eagle Eyes" branded replacement assemblies (I bought a set off an auction site).  Superior beam pattern (faux E-code--nice level LH cutoff, throws light high and to the right as an E-code pattern should, uses 9003/H4 bulbs (you'll need to adapt the wiring from your 9004s).  No need for LEDs with the optics here; fogs are clear but unimpressive unless one wants to blind oncoming drivers.  The side markers supplied with the lights are cheesy looking, IMO, but the headlights more than make up for it--they're the next best thing to finding unobtainium European-spec headlight assemblies.

On the speakers, the Nak speakers are common failure items, but if they sorta' worked before, they can be refoamed and still sound quite good once done. I've refoamed all of the door speakers in my car over the years.

Wobbling shifter? When braking? Rear trailing arm bushings are likely shot.  Polyurethane bushings are fairly plug-n-play (see writeup at lexls.com), and do the trick.

Enjoy your car!

Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, LSPaul said:

For the headlights, look online for the "Eagle Eyes" branded replacement assemblies (I bought a set off an auction site).  Superior beam pattern (faux E-code--nice level LH cutoff, throws light high and to the right as an E-code pattern should, uses 9003/H4 bulbs (you'll need to adapt the wiring from your 9004s).  No need for LEDs with the optics here; fogs are clear but unimpressive unless one wants to blind oncoming drivers.  The side markers supplied with the lights are cheesy looking, IMO, but the headlights more than make up for it--they're the next best thing to finding unobtainium European-spec headlight assemblies.

On the speakers, the Nak speakers are common failure items, but if they sorta' worked before, they can be refoamed and still sound quite good once done. I've refoamed all of the door speakers in my car over the years.

Wobbling shifter? When braking? Rear trailing arm bushings are likely shot.  Polyurethane bushings are fairly plug-n-play (see writeup at lexls.com), and do the trick.

Enjoy your car!

Paul


OK so here is the real "skinny" as it were...

MY power mirrors, Climate Control, and Radio all went out at the same time, sent my Climate Control to Tanin Auto Electronix for repair and upgrade (new LED's and circuitry), got word from them today that the unit is functional and they would give me a refund minus the cost of diagnostics, I told them to replace the circuitry and LED's anyway as its an old unit and I want to make sure it lasts me.

I dug around on here and ClubLexus for answers, came up with checking the fuse. Called my mechanic and asked him if he indeed tested the wiring, he stated he did and all of the wiring tested good both power and grounding. I asked him if they checked the interior fuse box, he said they could not find a diagram where the A/C controls went to a fuse relay. I told him in my manual it says its Relay #4 on the drivers side interior fuse box, he confirmed they had overlooked it, I checked it and viola it was a damn 7.5A fuse that knocked it all out, I replaced it with a new Japanese 7.5A fuse from O'reilly Auto Parts, and my power mirrors, and radio came back (not able to test climate as I do not have it back yet).

That being said I fully tested the radio today. My antenna needs to be replaced (already have it), my drivers side front speakers (tweeter included) are working well, passenger side tweeter is working but the woofer is dead, ALL rear speakers are dead, and the subwoofer is still kicking hard. In light of this I will be replacing the stock stereo system with a new one (still considering Pioneer D series), including the receiver. I WILL be retaining the original receiver and will be sending it out for professional overhaul (NO MODIFICATIONS, just replaced with new circuitry and replacing dead or dying LED's with new OEM ones), 2 uses will come from this, either I send up selling the car and will plug the factory one back in, or I will sell the unit if it ends up being worth some serious $$$ which it looks like its going to be.

 

As for the shifter, its just loose, regardless if I have the engine off, on, in park, in drive, or braking. When the transmission is cold it seems to wobble a bit when accelerating and you can feel it (wondering if it needs new mounts), but once it warms up its smooth, just the shifter itself is loose.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now