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2 posts in this topic
Hey guys. Just purchased a 1997 LS 400 and it's seen better days. It's leaking coolant pretty badly and I need to know what all the hoses are so I can start replacing the ones that I know are bad. It's also got a Heater Control Valve that's been broken off so I'll probably have to replace that first. Basically I need a manual like a Haynes or a Chiltons but I'm a cheapskate and was hoping someone might know where to get the PDF version of the manual. If not links to the manual could anyone give me pictures of the pages I need just to show me what exactly the parts are called I need to replace. This might be a stupid question also but it's low on Automatic Transmission Fluid and I wasn't sure if I can add it by pouring it directly into the place the dipstick is held. I can't find an opening to add it besides that and I know sometimes adding transmission fluid isn't as easy as topping off your oil or coolant. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks guys.
The low beam HID headlights on my 2003 GS430 stopped working. So looking into the cost etc, I decided to go with the OEM Philips D2R on Amazon for $44 each and replacing both seemed like the appropriate plan of action to get the best light. My local autozone et al wanted 70-90 for 1. There are cheaper alternatives on eBay and Amazon but I wanted to do the job once and maybe again in 13 years.
There a gray plastic ~5" diameter plastic covers on left and right sides right behind the headlight housing near the bumper. The plastic covers are removed by twisting them counter-clockwise. Once you remove the covers you will either see a 9006, non HID light bulb which is an angle connector with bulb built in or a HID D2R which will have a silver colored metal protector and a silver colored sheathed connector wire.
The metal connetor protector cover is held in place by two clips; top and bottom of the bulb holder, 12 & 6. Remove the bottom of the cover first and then slide the metal cover out from the top clip. The clips are bulit into the bulb holder so you can't lose them and are simple spring metal. The metal covers will have cutouts to match the clips on the bulb holder/housing. Once the metal covers are off you can now remove the bulb connector.
The bulb connectors are horizontal position and need to be rotated 45 degrees or so to be released. The bulb connectors have 4 positions where the bulb's two round knobs connect into so it's hard to tell if you should rotate CW or CCW and left and right sides rotated differently on my car. The connector will only rotate one direction and it comes off fairly easily so don't force it.
The buld has a round base with round winglets that secure the bulb to the slotted connector. Once the connector is removed you can remove the bulb. On my car, the right connector had to be turned 45degrees up to fit on the bulb and then rotated down to be horizontal and the left was attached down and rotated up to be horizontal. Remember how you took the connectors off as you will have to put them back on.
The bulb base has indentations on it that match the headlight housing and the bulb can only be inserted one way. There are two spring loaded clips that hold the base into the housing. The clips are long spring wires that are fixed at the bottom of the housing and secure around two two metal tabs at the top of the headllight housing. Pushing the rounded end of the spring in and pushing it from under the metal tabs will release the bulb from the housing. Observe the shealthed wire connector and its location relative to the springs, as you will need to replicated this during installation. Be careful removing the bulb as the external wire is exposed and you can break it very easily.
Reversing the procedure will be a lot easier now that you've gone through the removal process. The bulb external filament will be on the bottom and the indent in the bulb base located opposite at the top which is important to remember when installing it. Once you have identified the indent on the headlight housing base ^|^ and the corresponding matching indent on the bulb base the bulb will easily slide in place and the metal springs will easily get pushed underneath the metal tabs. Connect the connectors, rotate to horizontal position.
The metal backing cover should be slipped under the springs at the top and connected first and then snap the bottom in place. Keep the connector wire in the same position and then put the gray plastic cover and voila! it's done and you have succesfully saved yourself hundreds of dollars!
My descriptions are pretty exact and I have never replaced HID headlights on any other car so can't tell if my car/year is unique or not. I would be surprised if there are different methods as "variation is the enemy of quality" (Deming) and Japan used Demings theory in creating their reputation for quality!
Looking for some ideas on what to do next. I have a 1993 ES 300 that I've owned for just about 3 years, and have had tons of electrical problems with. I am the third owner and it came with a huge file of receipts for maintenance and work done over the years, it all looked pretty normal - nothing alarming.
Since purchase I have replaced the battery and alternator 2x each. Here are the problems/steps taken so far:
Battery kept dying; replaced battery under warranty - everything is good for approximately 3-6 months New battery started dying, did some at-home testing/readings with my "car guy"; replaced the alternator with a used one from local junkyard - everything is good for a few more months Battery continues to have problems with dying, took car into local Japanese auto place with good reviews. They diagnosed the issue as a short in the CD player draining the battery; disconnected CD player - everything's good for a few more months. Battery continues to have problems, assume the battery got fried from the bad alternator/short draining it; replace battery again, good for several more months Start having battery/dying problems again; confirmed alternator is failing with my "car guy", replace with another junkyard alternator - good for approximately 3 months Present day, my car will not start and is difficult to jump to boot. When it does get jumped and runs, everything charges up the way it should - it just doesn't maintain charge. During this time I've experienced a lot of other odd little electrical problems. My headlights dim slightly when I brake or use the power windows. Dome light stopped working, though I assumed that was just a burnt out bulb - have not bothered replacing so not totally sure there. Some lights on my dash/stereo that used to work have stopped working. I've noticed that the numbers on the clock are not displaying quite right; there are bits of other number parts remaining when there shouldn't be (if that makes sense). My antenna has a hard time going up and down, and at this point does not go up/down at all. One of the back windows doesn't roll down and hasn't since I got it, but I have just assumed that was a burnt out motor that I didn't care to replace. At this point I imagine it's all connected though.
I make sure to turn off all systems/lights/etc before turning off my car, there is nothing basic like that that is draining the battery. The car never dies while I am driving it, but when I start to have problems it'll be slow to turn over when starting, and eventually stops starting at all.
Not sure where to go from here. I'm apprehensive to take it back to the Japanese auto place I've been before since they just diagnosed it as a short in my CD player when clearly there is a bigger problem. I tried to get in with another local mechanic that everyone swears by, but they are booked out for 2 weeks. The nearest Lexus service center is over 50 miles away. I have considered ordering a rebuilt alternator through a vendor, but think it will likely be a waste of money because it seems there is likely a larger problem at play.
If anyone has had similar experiences or has thoughts on what to look into as the source of the issues, I'm all ears. Thank you!
I drive a lexus es350 07. I filled in diesel by mistake and before I could stop i filled in about 5gal. Now the car has 5gal diesel + 4 gal petrol. I drove 1mi after that to get it to my home and planning to tow the car to my local garage and have them flush the fuel system. But that can happen only tomorrow and I am worried about letting the car sit overnight with the diesel in it. Is there a way for me too siphon off the fuel from the tank ? Has anybody done this before on a Lexus ?
Hi, I'm new to Lexus' so I decided to come to the forum for some help. I'm looking for a cheap car to fix up and daily for a little bit before reselling it for profit. I'm looking at a 1992 LS400 with 234k miles. The interior is a little rough, and the exterior is a little rough, but nothing too bad. Clean title, and the owner says it needs the cats replaced, alignment, and a new battery. He says the emissions are done for this year, and in January the car will be 25 years old so I'll no longer need emissions. (I'm pretty sure at least.) So, I was thinking about just cutting the cats off since I won't need them for emissions anymore. The guy was asking $900 but he said his lowest price is $750 because he needs the money to fix his other car. Is it worth it? Should I go for it? What are some things I should look out for? I have a friend with a '96 LS400 and I might get him to come look at it with me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!