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gman13

99 Lexus Rx300 P1354 P0505 Misfire 2,4,6

29 posts in this topic

I have a 99 Lexus RX300. Car was running fine. Suddenly, CEL appears. Very rough idle, smell of exhaust when it is idling rough, hesitation, and at random speeds engine cuts out like you turned it off and then speeds up again. Codes are P0505, P1354, and random misfire codes for 2, 4, and 6. Car seems to run fairly normal until engine warms up. Removed OCV and cleaned. Connected it to a battery pack and it seems to work as it should( but I dont know what normal is). Should I rule out the OCV and look elsewhere. Could it be the idle control valve. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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I thought I would write a solution that worked for me. This relates to codes P1354 and P1349, related codes and symptoms.

Code P1354 VVI Malfunction Bank 2. Bank 2 is closest to the radiator. Often called the left side.

Resulting codes:

Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires

Codes: P0302, P0304. P0306 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 2, 4 and 6.

Possible code also- Code: 1153 - AF/ sensor bank 2 sensor 1

OR

Code P1349 VVI Malfunction Bank 1. Bank 1 the difficult side where the intake body is. Often called the right side.

Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires

Codes: P0301, P0303. P0305 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 1, 3 and 5.

Code for A/F sensor as well.

Driving symptoms:

The check engine light may come on periodically and go off after some driving. You may attribute it to a poorly closed gas cap ( may be the problem). You may not notice any significant performance issues.

At some point the idle may get rough due to the misfire, it may idle well when cold and become rough when warm. Ignore it and there may be a fish bite (jerk) at multiple speeds and revs. You may drive at a constant speed and the car cuts back and then revs up.

The brakes seem to become hard as well since insufficiently vacuum is created at idle.

Solution:

The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.

The first thing is to panic, and think the coils may be the problem. If you car was running OK highly unlikely all three coils on one bank will suddenly develop go bad simultaneously. The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.

If it is sludge that is causing the OCV to stick, then you have a bigger problem to address. Remove the valve covers to see if there is sludge.

You are luck if the electrical connections are a loose.

More then likely, it is the Oil Control Valve (OCV). Being VVT, the intake valves stroke is determined by engine RPM and load through the ECM and sensors. This in turn regulates the OCV allowing more or less oil through to control the intake valve stroke.

Replacing the OCV is an easy task. Start with taking of the plastic engine cover. I have attached some pictures.

To remove the OCV, remove any obstructing pipes if you have to (I did not).

Remove the electrical connector and 10mm head bolt.

Rotate it to break the O ring seal pull it out. You may need a flat end screwdriver to pry it under from underneath the flange.

Replace with a new one. Be careful not to mix the left and right sides. The one in the picture is bank 2, left.

This may not be the solution for everyone but it worked.

The OCV from the dealer is about $100 and 10 minutes to install. If you are close to http://www.twsparts.com/ they sell genuine Lexus parts ($80).

http://www.parkplacetexas.com/DealershipHo...?DealershipID=5 has them online cheaper but you have to pay shipping.

Hope this helps some out there.

Maistran.

--------------------

Thanks,

Maistran

I found this hope it helps.. You might want to do a search on the codes.

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I have a 99 Lexus RX300. Car was running fine. Suddenly, CEL appears. Very rough idle, smell of exhaust when it is idling rough, hesitation, and at random speeds engine cuts out like you turned it off and then speeds up again. Codes are P0505, P1354, and random misfire codes for 2, 4, and 6. Car seems to run fairly normal until engine warms up. Removed OCV and cleaned. Connected it to a battery pack and it seems to work as it should( but I don't know what normal is). Should I rule out the OCV and look elsewhere. Could it be the idle control valve. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

IACV is easy to clean and possibly rule out as a problem, but generally doesn't cause an extreme rough idle. Also, when mine was dirty it never threw any codes. If the rough idle comes and goes its not likely a coil, if it stays consistently bad, it may be. Once one of the coils goes bad, it causes a flood of other codes to be thrown, including misfires on other cylinders. If you reset the codes and start the car, then stop it quickly once the CEL appears you can see the true code that indicates the problem.

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I have a 99 Lexus RX300. Car was running fine. Suddenly, CEL appears. Very rough idle, smell of exhaust when it is idling rough, hesitation, and at random speeds engine cuts out like you turned it off and then speeds up again. Codes are P0505, P1354, and random misfire codes for 2, 4, and 6. Car seems to run fairly normal until engine warms up. Removed OCV and cleaned. Connected it to a battery pack and it seems to work as it should( but I dont know what normal is). Should I rule out the OCV and look elsewhere. Could it be the idle control valve. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Maistran

I did not see any pictures. I have the same problem and would love to see those pictures of the OCV. How do we see them on here. can you make a link?

also, when I go to any Lexus parts place, the Oil Control Valve is never listed.. even when I do a search.. :)

thanks

Tony267

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VERY INSIGHTFULL AND INFORMATIVE POST FROM PATICAKE.

l_e4b1593ea12d4325b7d9e3a94cb508f5.jpg

sry not the best picture but this is the left OCV out of my 98 GS400.

Same conditions as Paticake mentioned. Multiple misfires, engine idling poorly, misfire on all 4 cylinder on one side. I thought my engine was done for.

I have had my fair share of Coil pack issues. I knew there was no way 4 plus or 4 coil packs when out at the same time. Removed and fire tested each coil pack, Replaced all 4 plugs on that bank for extra messure (yes i got all 8) Removed front convers to check VVTi cam Gear marks for TDC to match the crank. All At TDC. REMOVED left OVC, feed it - and + an it did nothing (not plunging). Removed Right OVC and feed it - and + and it plunged everytime.

CRANK TDC l_a4cb0a47d4f94049a13e09dd5889a5f0.jpg

RIGHT CAM TDCl_4c591140b76643e5b204e7e433af0d62.jpg

LEFT CAM TDCl_727be70bd06f40128a121f5e07747c25.jpg

Left side: 15340-50010 0050

MY QUESTION NOW IS, WHERE IS THE FILTERS FOR THE VVTi IN THE V8'S? BEHIND THE VVTi GEAR ASSEMBLY?

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This forum is great! Thanks for the advice. I had the same issues and codes so I took my 99 RX300 in to a local Toyota Dealership and was informed that it would cost me $1600 to replace the two OCVs and matching camshaft gears. I wondered why the gears and they said that the parts work in tandem and they recommended that I change them out. Well it seemed fishy to me and I went here for more info. Hour of labor and $200 labor and I had replaced my own OCVs and have not had a code since. It runs smoother than i have heard it run in months. By the way, don't buy the OCVs from Lexus as the same exact part is $25 more than if you picked it up at Toyota. (Lexus said that the parts are not interchangeable...can't believe anyone these days!)

Thanks everyone!

Michael

Saint Augustine, FL

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What do you do when you replace the coils and the OCV's? I'm still getting all the issues w/ misfiring, no brakes, etc...

Thanks

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What do you do when you replace the coils and the OCV's and I'm still getting all the issues w/ misfiring, no brakes, etc...

Thanks

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What do you do when you replace the coils and the OCV's and I'm still getting all the issues w/ misfiring, no brakes, etc...

Thanks

I am in the same boat with my 2000 es300. Anyone have any other ideas? I'm at the end of my rope.

TIA

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Having the exact same symptoms with my rx300... had spark plugs and wires replaced, new fuel filter and new serpentine belts... p300 p302 p304 p306 p1354 and p1153.... So do i need the left ocv or the right ocv with those codes? and does anyone have the actual part number for the ocv's and the af sensors bank 2 sensor 1... thanks so much for your time! Tracy in Knoxville, TN

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Same here, getting codes for 2 days.

Symptoms just as Paticake had written.

Dang, wish his pictures were still there.

Everywhere I look that talks about OCV does not show an actual location on the engine.

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it is here.

post-12820-0-38955900-1297092350_thumb.p

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Having the exact same symptoms with my rx300... had spark plugs and wires replaced, new fuel filter and new serpentine belts... p300 p302 p304 p306 p1354 and p1153.... So do i need the left ocv or the right ocv with those codes? and does anyone have the actual part number for the ocv's and the af sensors bank 2 sensor 1... thanks so much for your time! Tracy in Knoxville, TN

Just had my RX330 A/F sensor done last week. Says B1152 and B1423--- BANK 2 SENSOR 1.

FP- NUMBER on invoice is 89467-48050.. I assume if they are the same on both models, that this may then be the the part number u need. Hope it helps..

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So i guess ill get the left ocv.... any advice on replacing the ocv ? do i need to purchase the ring separately or does the Ocv come with a new ring. Hubby is going to do the ocv for me. I am all ears! thanks for your help!

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it is here.

Thanks for the schematic... I love this forum!

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I thought I would write a solution that worked for me. This relates to codes P1354 and P1349, related codes and symptoms.

Code P1354 VVI Malfunction Bank 2. Bank 2 is closest to the radiator. Often called the left side.

Resulting codes:

Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires

Codes: P0302, P0304. P0306 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 2, 4 and 6.

Possible code also- Code: 1153 - AF/ sensor bank 2 sensor 1

OR

Code P1349 VVI Malfunction Bank 1. Bank 1 the difficult side where the intake body is. Often called the right side.

Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires

Codes: P0301, P0303. P0305 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 1, 3 and 5.

Code for A/F sensor as well.

Driving symptoms:

The check engine light may come on periodically and go off after some driving. You may attribute it to a poorly closed gas cap ( may be the problem). You may not notice any significant performance issues.

At some point the idle may get rough due to the misfire, it may idle well when cold and become rough when warm. Ignore it and there may be a fish bite (jerk) at multiple speeds and revs. You may drive at a constant speed and the car cuts back and then revs up.

The brakes seem to become hard as well since insufficiently vacuum is created at idle.

Solution:

The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.

The first thing is to panic, and think the coils may be the problem. If you car was running OK highly unlikely all three coils on one bank will suddenly develop go bad simultaneously. The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.

If it is sludge that is causing the OCV to stick, then you have a bigger problem to address. Remove the valve covers to see if there is sludge.

You are luck if the electrical connections are a loose.

More then likely, it is the Oil Control Valve (OCV). Being VVT, the intake valves stroke is determined by engine RPM and load through the ECM and sensors. This in turn regulates the OCV allowing more or less oil through to control the intake valve stroke.

Replacing the OCV is an easy task. Start with taking of the plastic engine cover. I have attached some pictures.

To remove the OCV, remove any obstructing pipes if you have to (I did not).

Remove the electrical connector and 10mm head bolt.

Rotate it to break the O ring seal pull it out. You may need a flat end screwdriver to pry it under from underneath the flange.

Replace with a new one. Be careful not to mix the left and right sides. The one in the picture is bank 2, left.

This may not be the solution for everyone but it worked.

The OCV from the dealer is about $100 and 10 minutes to install. If you are close to http://www.twsparts.com/ they sell genuine Lexus parts ($80).

http://www.parkplacetexas.com/DealershipHo...?DealershipID=5 has them online cheaper but you have to pay shipping.

Hope this helps some out there.

Maistran.

--------------------

Thanks,

Maistran

I found this hope it helps.. You might want to do a search on the codes.

1 person likes this

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Same here, getting codes for 2 days.

Symptoms just as Paticake had written.

Dang, wish his pictures were still there.

Everywhere I look that talks about OCV does not show an actual location on the engine.

I had the same symptoms with my 99 RX300, both constant and flashing CEL, rough idle, smell of exhaust, jerking at various speeds and revs, hard brakes at idle. I was getting 2 4 & 6 random misfire codes. I replaced the left oil control valve (part#15340-0A010). The cost at the Lexus dealership was 97.46 and at Toyota dealership 92.78. The fix took about 10 minutes (very easy). The problem is solved: no CEL, runs perfect. It's definately worth a try :)

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I thought I would write a solution that worked for me. This relates to codes P1354 and P1349, related codes and symptoms.

Code P1354 VVI Malfunction Bank 2. Bank 2 is closest to the radiator. Often called the left side.

Resulting codes:

Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires

Codes: P0302, P0304. P0306 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 2, 4 and 6.

Possible code also- Code: 1153 - AF/ sensor bank 2 sensor 1

OR

Code P1349 VVI Malfunction Bank 1. Bank 1 the difficult side where the intake body is. Often called the right side.

Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires

Codes: P0301, P0303. P0305 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 1, 3 and 5.

Code for A/F sensor as well.

Driving symptoms:

The check engine light may come on periodically and go off after some driving. You may attribute it to a poorly closed gas cap ( may be the problem). You may not notice any significant performance issues.

At some point the idle may get rough due to the misfire, it may idle well when cold and become rough when warm. Ignore it and there may be a fish bite (jerk) at multiple speeds and revs. You may drive at a constant speed and the car cuts back and then revs up.

The brakes seem to become hard as well since insufficiently vacuum is created at idle.

Solution:

The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.

The first thing is to panic, and think the coils may be the problem. If you car was running OK highly unlikely all three coils on one bank will suddenly develop go bad simultaneously. The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.

If it is sludge that is causing the OCV to stick, then you have a bigger problem to address. Remove the valve covers to see if there is sludge.

You are luck if the electrical connections are a loose.

More then likely, it is the Oil Control Valve (OCV). Being VVT, the intake valves stroke is determined by engine RPM and load through the ECM and sensors. This in turn regulates the OCV allowing more or less oil through to control the intake valve stroke.

Replacing the OCV is an easy task. Start with taking of the plastic engine cover. I have attached some pictures.

To remove the OCV, remove any obstructing pipes if you have to (I did not).

Remove the electrical connector and 10mm head bolt.

Rotate it to break the O ring seal pull it out. You may need a flat end screwdriver to pry it under from underneath the flange.

Replace with a new one. Be careful not to mix the left and right sides. The one in the picture is bank 2, left.

This may not be the solution for everyone but it worked.

The OCV from the dealer is about $100 and 10 minutes to install. If you are close to http://www.twsparts.com/ they sell genuine Lexus parts ($80).

http://www.parkplacetexas.com/DealershipHo...?DealershipID=5 has them online cheaper but you have to pay shipping.

Hope this helps some out there.

Maistran.

--------------------

Thanks,

Maistran

I found this hope it helps.. You might want to do a search on the codes.

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Maistran,

Regarding the installation of the OCV, should the valving be soaked in oil(Mobil 1) before installing in the head, or just as it comes from the box?? Your posts have been very valuable!

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Would this same problem listed cause the 99 rx300 to not drive when the engine heats up? It just revs up, just like a clutch that is going out. I have the smell of gas, I'm starting to put money on this ocv being my problem.

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I know you guys haven't been on this thread for quite some time, but now I'm having the same exact issues with my RX300! I've replaced all 6 coils and plugs, mass air flow sensor, both of the cam shaft position sensors, and we tested both of the ocv's to see if they were working and both appear to be working. We also cleaned them. Should I go ahead and replace them even though they are getting voltage, are moving, and have been cleaned??? Also, do I need to change my oxygen sensors? There are 4 of them at $170 a piece!! Please help if you can!! Thank you so much!

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Had code p1354 and changing the ocv seemed to do the trick not to mention it was super easy. Prior to doing the repair, I called the toyota dealership to get an estimate and the guy said "I cant quote u on that because sometimes we have to lift out the engine to replace that part." Im done with dealerships.

Anyway, nice work everybody and thanks alot!

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I know you guys haven't been on this thread for quite some time, but now I'm having the same exact issues with my RX300! I've replaced all 6 coils and plugs, mass air flow sensor, both of the cam shaft position sensors, and we tested both of the ocv's to see if they were working and both appear to be working. We also cleaned them. Should I go ahead and replace them even though they are getting voltage, are moving, and have been cleaned??? Also, do I need to change my oxygen sensors? There are 4 of them at $170 a piece!! Please help if you can!! Thank you so much!

Please note the Sensors are not all the same, some are Air/fuel sensors and then a Oxygen sensor. Testing the OCV is not a good check...How where they tested?

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