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Gs300 2001 - Dash Lights Abs Vsc Vsc Off


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#1 micropterus

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Posted 07 November 2008 - 08:23 PM

Greetings! (New To Forum) I have a GS300 2001 and recently had the lower ball joints replaced. After that (see subject) and repair shop said 'Not Their Problem' I have done a lot of searching and found the DCL 3 Plug Reset documentation and have run into a problem. The pin connectors mentioned to use in the Jumper Wire reset process are numbers 4 and 12 which are the TS and CG connectors. However, my plug only has five wires running to it (click link below for diagram download) and all the others have no wiring at all. So, i am not sure what I have. Anyone know which of the five wires (pair) that I should connect the Jumper Wire to ?


Thanks in advance,

Dan Curtis

http://www.mediafire...php?ukmzmfaw2yd (Note - I modified this link and file format to .bmp - 11/18/08)

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#2 merwin121

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 06:22 PM

What program are you using to open the *.cwk file? I'd be interested in viewing the schematic. I also have the same problem. I removed both front sensors and they seem to be fine. Haven't tested them electrically, but visual inspection proves to be OK. I was just going to buy new sensors and replace, but if there's a reset process, I would like to try that before I dish out the cash on 2 sensors.

Thanks,
Merwin

#3 Jonathanxxxx

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 06:25 PM

Not quite sure.

#4 GuyTelefunken

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 07:18 PM

The most likely problem is that one or both of the wheel speed sensor wires was either damaged or not reconnected. Check the wiring on both sides. A better option for checking and clearing the codes would be a scantool.

To view and clear codes without a scan tool, you must access the DLC1 connector. It is located in the junction box under the hood on the drivers side. See the attached files.

Sorry about the sloppy way this post looks, there is currently a problem with attaching files. This post is best viewed with Mozilla Firefox.

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#5 micropterus

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 07:52 PM

What program are you using to open the *.cwk file? I'd be interested in viewing the schematic. I also have the same problem. I removed both front sensors and they seem to be fine. Haven't tested them electrically, but visual inspection proves to be OK. I was just going to buy new sensors and replace, but if there's a reset process, I would like to try that before I dish out the cash on 2 sensors.

Thanks,
Merwin



Hey Merwin, I created my schematic using Appleworks Painting program on my Mac .... then I posted the file to one of those file sharing websites (checked for viruses,etc.) as most forums do not allow cut/paste to prevent virus introductions. I am puzzled at the wiring config to this plug ... only five wires ... anyway ... I've performed all the obvious reset stuff that I have found in my research ... disconnect battery, top off brake fluid, check ABS,VSC fuses, etc. etc. My last thing to try was the reset procedure that I mentioned that should clear the error condition with the dash lights. If that does not work, then I know I have a damaged wheel speed sensor or ABS Wire .... not good. I tried to save a bunch of dough by avoiding the dealer ... I had lower ball joints replaced (I purchased from irontoad.com for $64.00 each ... hi ghest dealer price was $121.00 each) I also bought new Michelin tires all around ... paid $124.00 each ... and I bought new struts all around from shockswarehouse.com $106.00 (fronts) $112.00 (rear) ... KYB GR2's plus alignment .... I did save a bunch of dough but I got screwed on the dash light problem. Get this, my local Lexus dealer wanted $760.00 to install MY struts plus another $140.00 for alignment .... I had struts installed and alignment done at another shop for $240.00 total all labor!!!! I should have had those guys install the ball joints ....

Dan Curtis

By the way it is really hard to find wiring schematics and repair manuals for Lexus cars ... at least for me it is ....

Thanks for responding ...

#6 micropterus

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 08:00 PM

The most likely problem is that one or both of the wheel speed sensor wires was either damaged or not reconnected. Check the wiring on both sides. A better option for checking and clearing the codes would be a scantool.

To view and clear codes without a scan tool, you must access the DLC1 connector. It is located in the junction box under the hood on the drivers side. See the attached files.


Guy, Thanks for info ... I did find the list of error codes and schematic but apparently I overlooked the fact that the DCL1 plug can also be checked from under the hood .... I give that a shot Thanks

Dan Curtis

#7 merwin121

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Posted 13 November 2008 - 06:48 PM

Hey guys, thanks for all the useful information. I disconnected the speed sensor and measured the resistance across the terminals...It's supposed to be somewhere between 1.3-1.8kohms. My right side was 1.58kohms, but my left side was open-circuited. Looks like I'm going to replace the left side sensor this weekend. The Lexus dealership around my way is charging about 290 bucks for one sensor, so I'm going to check out the local junk yard to see if they have any sensors available...If not, then 300 bucks it is.

micropterus, this problem occurred when I also replaced both my lower ball joints. So, you could possibly have the same issue. Accessing the connector inside the front fender is fairly simple, and checking it with a multimeter is quick. If I were you, I would check both sides to see which ones, if not both, are the problem.



Thanks to all,
Merwin

#8 micropterus

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Posted 18 November 2008 - 01:38 AM

Hey guys, thanks for all the useful information. I disconnected the speed sensor and measured the resistance across the terminals...It's supposed to be somewhere between 1.3-1.8kohms. My right side was 1.58kohms, but my left side was open-circuited. Looks like I'm going to replace the left side sensor this weekend. The Lexus dealership around my way is charging about 290 bucks for one sensor, so I'm going to check out the local junk yard to see if they have any sensors available...If not, then 300 bucks it is.

micropterus, this problem occurred when I also replaced both my lower ball joints. So, you could possibly have the same issue. Accessing the connector inside the front fender is fairly simple, and checking it with a multimeter is quick. If I were you, I would check both sides to see which ones, if not both, are the problem.



Thanks to all,
Merwin



Merwin, Check with irontoad.com they sell Lexus factory OEM parts at discount, previously checked them on a wheel speed sensor for my GS300 2001 and was quoted $188.00 ..... they also sell OEM parts for Toyota and BMW. I tried the reset procedure that Guy posted using a jumper wire on the Diagnosis plug under the hood. Dash lights remained on after this. I'll have to try the test you did on the sensor timing issue .... to isolate which side throwing error condition.

Dan Curtis

#9 merwin121

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Posted 18 November 2008 - 07:15 PM

I ended up fixing the problem. In the process I realized I have been using the wrong terminology. I was under the impression that the speed sensor and the ABS sensor were the same thing. That is not the case. From what I have been told, the speed sensor is located near the transmission, while the ABS sensor is by the wheels. The ABS sensor is the issue for me. Sorry for the confusion. Anyways, I really didn't want to pay the 300 some odd bucks for the new ABS sensor from Lexus, so since I knew I that the problem was isolated to my front driverside ABS sensor, I took that out, and cut back the jacket/shielding and traced the 2 wires from the connector to the sensor. In the process, I found that there was a split in the wires right before the sensor. I bought some heatshrink, 24awg stranded wire, and soldered some new wires in replacement. Added heatshrink and LOTS of electrical tape. Making sure I had that 1.5-1.6kohms resistance across the newly soldered wires, I put that jacket/shielding back on, and put some more electrical tape before re-installing back onto the vehicle. I put loads upon loads of electrical tape for fear of moisture/water leaking through and shorting out the wires. I started up the car and drove a couple blocks, and the lights came off. Hope that helps. Good luck.


-Merwin

#10 dhowerto

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 07:46 PM

I have a '99 GS300 and had the front struts, upper ball joints, wheel bearings, seals and hubs replaced. I drove it home from the the dealership this evening and while driving in traffic tapped my brakes. The dash pod lights and power went out. I tapped the brakes to pull off the road and all the power returned. A few miles down the road...same thing. Could this be the same problem? ABS sensor damaged during repair?

#11 sakataj

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Posted 30 January 2009 - 09:39 AM

I have a '99 GS300 and had the front struts, upper ball joints, wheel bearings, seals and hubs replaced. I drove it home from the the dealership this evening and while driving in traffic tapped my brakes. The dash pod lights and power went out. I tapped the brakes to pull off the road and all the power returned. A few miles down the road...same thing. Could this be the same problem? ABS sensor damaged during repair?



no.....it shouldn't be. take it back to the dealer if u had it done at a dealership like u said.....

#12 mlgs300

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 09:59 AM

I ended up fixing the problem. In the process I realized I have been using the wrong terminology. I was under the impression that the speed sensor and the ABS sensor were the same thing. That is not the case. From what I have been told, the speed sensor is located near the transmission, while the ABS sensor is by the wheels. The ABS sensor is the issue for me. Sorry for the confusion. Anyways, I really didn't want to pay the 300 some odd bucks for the new ABS sensor from Lexus, so since I knew I that the problem was isolated to my front driverside ABS sensor, I took that out, and cut back the jacket/shielding and traced the 2 wires from the connector to the sensor. In the process, I found that there was a split in the wires right before the sensor. I bought some heatshrink, 24awg stranded wire, and soldered some new wires in replacement. Added heatshrink and LOTS of electrical tape. Making sure I had that 1.5-1.6kohms resistance across the newly soldered wires, I put that jacket/shielding back on, and put some more electrical tape before re-installing back onto the vehicle. I put loads upon loads of electrical tape for fear of moisture/water leaking through and shorting out the wires. I started up the car and drove a couple blocks, and the lights came off. Hope that helps. Good luck.


-Merwin



I have found that electrical tape outside in the elements near wheels and such usually ends up sucking up all the moisture it can get and locking it inside the tape. It's better just to leave it out in the elements if you heat shrinked or an alternative would be liquid electrical tape that would seal it up without the seams.

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