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#1 mnesbit

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 09:17 AM

I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic 5W30 oil in my '95 LS 400 and I like the results. The engine seems to run smoother and quieter and there have been no leaks.

Does anybody know how many miles Mobil 1 synthetic is good for?

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#2 GDixon

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 11:03 AM

I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic 5W30 oil in my '95 LS 400 and I like the results. The engine seems to run smoother and quieter and there have been no leaks.

Does anybody know how many miles Mobil 1 synthetic is good for?


It is good for the oil change interval stated in your car's manual. There is no reason to extend beyond that to save a dollar or two. An engine rebuild on a Lexus is absurdly more expensive than what you would save by extending the oil use until it is totally worn out and contaminated.

#3 jcrome04

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 11:22 AM

If you UOA some people have seen the oil fine for +10k miles.



I personally like 3-4k intervals and use the Full Synthetic Mobil1 5W-30 too.


I know there would be no trouble of even going to 7k....but what can i say.... old habits are hard to break :) plus I have no problem spending $30 for oil every 3k miles.

In the end do what your comfortable with. I like KNOWING that my oil is 100% fresh and new. Just remember, it won't hurt anything to change it sooner rather than later!

#4 SW03ES

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 11:27 AM

Yep, Lexus specifically says that the oil change interval should not be extended when using synthetic oils.

#5 dcfish

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 11:44 AM

Yep, Lexus specifically says that the oil change interval should not be extended when using synthetic oils.

I agree 100% ;)

#6 c.word

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 12:09 PM

I know that the fast lube industry says Mobil1's claim of extended oil life is true, but recommend changing the oil filter per manufacturer's recommendations.

From Mobil1.com:

Mobil 1 Extended Performance is guaranteed to deliver oil performance and engine protection for 15,000 miles between oil changes. Designed for today's longer oil change intervals, Mobil 1 Extended Performance with the Advanced SuperSyn system helps keep engines running like new and helps extend engine life by reducing wear and oil breakdown. Mobil 1 Extended Performance motor oils have been tested to be fully compatible with engine seals and do not require a special oil filter.

http://www.mobiloil...._Do_For_Me.aspx

so whats it do? Probably nothing other than cost ~$7.25 per quart. Try it and go run a 1/4 mile and see if it makes you go faster. If not, why use it?

Explore that site and see if there are any test results (other than the Vegas Taxi Cab) which will demonstrate a significant return on investment within a controlled environment.

I've run Slick50, Royal Purple, blah blah... when I thought you get what you pay for. If I had a large investment in a modified engine & drivetrain then I liked the idea of synthetics. But with a sexy drivetrain, I found myself having to drain the boxes more frequently for other reasons. (dumping my freshly contaminated Royal Purple)

For a daily driver, go with standard oil. You probably won't put enough miles on the car to reap significant benefits from synthetics/Teflon/cling-on lubes. That is, unless you intend to drive it for more than ten years... and who does that? Save your money!

I do agree that one should do everything you can to keep an engine running if it is out of warranty. BTW: I am a huge fan of EXTENDED warranties (3rd party). They pay for themselves once a vehicle gets to the ten year mark.

Lexus engines normally tend to die right as the repair costs surpass vehicle's worth. (that is good stuff, kids)

#7 SW03ES

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 01:16 PM

Actually...Lexus engines don't tend to die...

Lexus motors with 500,000 miles or more are definately out there.

In terms of synthetics, I've run Mobil 1 ever since the vehicle was new, but I still change the oil every 5,000 miles. It doesn't cost $7.50 a quart either, $5 or so a quart, about $2 more than a good conventional oil. More than worth it IMHO for smoother operation, better protection against temperatures especially in engines that run really hot like the 3.0l in the ES.

Thats Mobil 1 "extended performance" which is a marketing ploy. Just use ordinary old Mobil 1.

#8 1990LS400

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 01:32 PM

c.word, I don't understand the reasoning behind some of your comments. Would you mind explaining further?

But with a sexy drivetrain, I found myself having to drain the boxes more frequently for other reasons. (dumping my freshly contaminated Royal Purple)


What has been causing you to have to prematurely drain your "boxes" (do you mean engines?) so often? I've driven some fairly temperamental cars during my 42 years of driving and I can't remember having to do anything like that.

That is, unless you intend to drive it for more than ten years... and who does that?


Well... a lot of members of this forum do exactly that. There are many forum members driving generation one 1990-92 LS400s including a friend who is still driving my first LS400 that I bought in early 1990. That's over 18 years and, I am told, it is doing quite nicely as it nears 270,000 miles.

BTW: I am a huge fan of EXTENDED warranties (3rd party). They pay for themselves once a vehicle gets to the ten year mark.


OK ... I recently retired after over 30 years with one of the top U.S. providers of extended warranties sold by car dealers. Yes, I was a big fan of extended warranties too since they are wildly profitable for both the selling dealer and the warranty company. But they are rarely a good deal for the consumer unless the car model is of particularly low quality or the consumer is cash poor. And what do you mean by "They pay for themselves once a vehicle gets to the ten year mark."?

Lexus engines normally tend to die right as the repair costs surpass vehicle's worth. (that is good stuff, kids)


It is not unusual for the repair costs over a 1 - 3 year period for an older car to exceed the car's market value. That doesn't mean that continuing to drive an older vehicle doesn't make economic sense. Lexus V8 engines can easily go far past 300,000 miles with only routine maintenance. Yes, some external engine components (e.g. power steering pump, alternator) may need replacement but it is extraordinary for the basic engine (bearings, pistons, rings, camshafts, etc.) to fail.

These cars more frequently meet their end when they are crashed and the cost of the crash repair exceeds the car's market value. Or when owners allow the interiors and exteriors to get trashed (scratches, dents, upholstery rips, broken glass) and the cost of repair exceeds the car's market value. Or when the owners never do any maintenance at all.

Hey, PM me and I'll buy you a pint at my favorite bar in O.P. If you are in Kansas City, we can't live all that far apart.

#9 python

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 02:40 PM

5-7k on the 5w-30.....brand new bmw's are recommended at 7-10k i believe

#10 c.word

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 04:50 PM

c.word, I don't understand the reasoning behind some of your comments. Would you mind explaining further?

But with a sexy drivetrain, I found myself having to drain the boxes more frequently for other reasons. (dumping my freshly contaminated Royal Purple)


What has been causing you to have to prematurely drain your "boxes" (do you mean engines?) so often? I've driven some fairly temperamental cars during my 42 years of driving and I can't remember having to do anything like that.

Absolutely! I love explaining! But I can't seem to get the proper quoting format! I will figure it out at some point...

Well no, of course nothing on either Lexus! But I reference cases when I have made “upgrades” to previous vehicles. I have put hours of work, design and planning as well as far too much coin into engines, transmissions, and gearboxes for on and off road use. I am of the opinion that once you seal a motor project (believe it to be DONE/FINISHED) it becomes somewhat of a curse – due to the fact that you believe your work to be perfect. I can triple check all my work, tolerances, and setups but it seems when I do and bolt it together, a defect comes about. Thus resulting in the vague scenario I described. I have an example I will show you (In PV,KS btw) of an AIR "BUBBLE" cast within a RWD pinion shaft which resulted in the pinion gear breaking and dropping into the differential housing wedging between the ring gear and the case.
Now, not that all things are out of my control - I make mistakes, we all do, but often get longer life from my projects when I don't "sweeten them up" (have excessive pride/sense of accomplishment prior to reaching a level of mechanical functionality.) The use of expensive lubricants right off the bench did nothing for the short term mechanical efficiency of the engine/trans/gearbox which I installed. That is my opinion… your results may differ. Additionally, I now EXPECT and PLAN for failures and in doing so, have a higher success rate (mechanical reliability). And I could be wrong. No wait.. Murphy’s Law states something along the same lines.



That is, unless you intend to drive it for more than ten years... and who does that?


Well... a lot of members of this forum do exactly that. There are many forum members driving generation one 1990-92 LS400s including a friend who is still driving my first LS400 which I bought in early 1990. That's over 18 years and, I am told, is doing quite nicely as it nears 270,000 miles.

Apologies and no offense intended. I should have put in some sort of appropriate emoticon post script. I was being sarcastic here... but it didn't look like it because I was bashing the use of synthetics without a defined need such as excessive temp, RPM, and/or turbo lines getting choked by oil coking (not COOKING).
But looking back at this example, I indeed feel that a high mileage engine cannot be miraculously “saved” via the use of synthetic oil once it suddenly reaches ~100/200/300k. Simply switching from a 5w30 conventional to a 5w30 synthetic will not address the issues of a motor with 250k operating in an ambient environment averaging 100 degrees Fahrenheit each day in stop & start traffic. (For example alone – situations may differ) In my opinion, the operator of the vehicle needs to understand the internal conditions of such an aged motor and compensate by switching to thicker multi viscosity oil in extreme driving conditions as detailed above. Yes that may mean running a winter weight different than a summer weight of oil. (GASP!)
I will say that I believe synthetics do have their place - such as a cradle to grave situation which the owner intends to drive it off the showroom floor and put many miles (~100-300k) on the car. Synthetics used from retail purchase onward absolutely extend engine life! I do approve!

Hail old motors! They go faster and make better noise.
I am a huge fan of old B.O.P. big blocks. I snatch them up whenever I can. But it’s not a GM site.

BTW: I am a huge fan of EXTENDED warranties (3rd party). They pay for themselves once a vehicle gets to the ten year mark.


OK ... I recently retired after over 30 years with one of the top U.S. providers of extended warranties sold by car dealers. Yes, I was a big fan of extended warranties too since they are wildly profitable for both the selling dealer and the warranty company. But they are rarely a good deal for the consumer unless the car model is of particularly low quality or the consumer is cash poor. And what do you mean by "They pay for themselves once a vehicle gets to the ten year mark."?

I saw the value in it and it saved me often. Once I collected my complaints and brought them all into the dealer at the same time to best make use of deductible. Previous vehicle (SUV) hit the 10 year mark and the spider gears locked up in the rear end (different case from the earlier mentioned), the front axle seals were dripping everywhere, and it wouldn't shift into 4wd. Oh and the rear wiper wouldn't move when dash button was depressed. Right, so my all my payments to the extended warranty company suddenly were cost effective!!! Very! But again, that’s just my experience. I could handle a $75 monthly payment. I was young and NOT prepared to cover a $5000 rear differential R&R. I viewed it as insurance and I don’t regret it.
I still will not drive a car without a warranty. I don't save, I spend it all at Diamond Joes ;)


Lexus engines normally tend to die right as the repair costs surpass vehicle's worth. (that is good stuff, kids)


It is not unusual for the repair costs over a 1 - 3 year period for an older car to exceed the car's market value. That doesn't mean that continuing to drive an older vehicle doesn't make economic sense. Lexus V8 engines can easily go far past 300,000 miles with only routine maintenance. Yes, some external engine components (e.g. power steering pump, alternator) may need replacement but it is extraordinary for the basic engine (bearings, pistons, rings, camshafts, etc.) to fail.

These cars more frequently meet their end when they are crashed and the cost of the crash repair exceeds the car's market value. Or when owners allow the interiors and exteriors to get trashed (scratches, dents, upholstery rips, broken glass) and the cost of repair exceeds the car's market value. Or when the owners never do any maintenance at all.

Hey, PM me and I'll buy you a pint at my favorite bar in O.P. If you are in Kansas City, we can't live all that far apart.


Agreed! I was speaking of absolute engine failure. Well said however.
Newcastle!!!

#11 vroom8

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 06:48 PM

Should I use synthetic in my '92??....I was told not the older engines??

#12 Randy&Bonnie

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 07:33 PM

..

#13 python

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 08:01 PM

vroom8 i wouldnt if i were u

#14 SW03ES

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 09:48 PM

Yeah I wouldnt in the 92, sometimes in older engines you can develop leaks if synthetic hasn't been used throughout its life.

#15 vroom8

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Posted 24 August 2008 - 10:37 PM

Python- SW- thanks!

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