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1997 Lexus Es300 Window Regulator And Motor


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#1 herb93997

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Posted 10 February 2008 - 10:32 PM

I was just wondering if anybody could give me some advice about my problem. One day my window just slid down, I took it apart and found that the cable connecting to the window motor on my driver side door snapped. I don't know if someone was trying to break in or if the cable broke by itself. Now my question is, if the wire is snapped, do I need to replace the window regulator or the window motor or neither. I would take it in to a mechanic, but I like fixing things by myself and it's ten times cheaper.
Thank You All

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#2 gbhrps

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 07:42 PM

herb,
If you have the patience, the usual home mechanic's tools, a place to do the work, and a little mechanical savvy, its a DIYer. Over the years I've done many of these on a lot of different cars. They all have a different setup of motors and window assemblies, but they are pretty much the same when it comes to how to change them out. I suggest buying a used motor/regulator assembly(for the same rear door) from a junkyard and doing a swap. The glass rides in a front and rear channel and is usually connected to a sliding channel across its bottom edge by two bolts or plastic sliding grips through the glass. To get to these bolts or clips you'll have to slide the glass down until these bolts/clips line up with holes or ports through the steel inside panel of the door. After you undo these fasteners, you'll be able to separate the glass from the bottom channel. Then rotate the glass through 20 degrees or so to drop its leading edge from the front channel and lift the glass out of the door towards the inside of the car. Now you just locate and undo the bolts that hold the motor/window assembly to the interior steel panel of the door. There are usually 4 of them but there could be one or two extra. Unclip the wiring harness to the assembly and pull the motor/regulator out through the largest opening in the door shell. Putting the new/used regulator in is just the reverse, and be sure to test its operation fully before you hang the interior door panel back on. See if you can purchase an entire door including the glass, with the understanding that you'll return the door and its glass for a refund after you get the motor/regulator assembly out. That way you'll be able to take your time to see how the unit comes apart, before you do the work on your car. I don't know how it works where you live, but we have several wrecking yards here that will allow you to remove your own parts. Good Luck!

#3 herb93997

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Posted 11 February 2008 - 09:46 PM

Hey, thanks gphrps for the information. I was wondering if I could just replace the cable itself or would I need the whole motor and regulator like you said. My regulator seems find, but the motor which runs the cable seems to be the problem, with the snapped wire. I don't want to buy both parts if I don't have to.
Thank You

herb,
If you have the patience, the usual home mechanic's tools, a place to do the work, and a little mechanical savvy, its a DIYer. Over the years I've done many of these on a lot of different cars. They all have a different setup of motors and window assemblies, but they are pretty much the same when it comes to how to change them out. I suggest buying a used motor/regulator assembly(for the same rear door) from a junkyard and doing a swap. The glass rides in a front and rear channel and is usually connected to a sliding channel across its bottom edge by two bolts or plastic sliding grips through the glass. To get to these bolts or clips you'll have to slide the glass down until these bolts/clips line up with holes or ports through the steel inside panel of the door. After you undo these fasteners, you'll be able to separate the glass from the bottom channel. Then rotate the glass through 20 degrees or so to drop its leading edge from the front channel and lift the glass out of the door towards the inside of the car. Now you just locate and undo the bolts that hold the motor/window assembly to the interior steel panel of the door. There are usually 4 of them but there could be one or two extra. Unclip the wiring harness to the assembly and pull the motor/regulator out through the largest opening in the door shell. Putting the new/used regulator in is just the reverse, and be sure to test its operation fully before you hang the interior door panel back on. See if you can purchase an entire door including the glass, with the understanding that you'll return the door and its glass for a refund after you get the motor/regulator assembly out. That way you'll be able to take your time to see how the unit comes apart, before you do the work on your car. I don't know how it works where you live, but we have several wrecking yards here that will allow you to remove your own parts. Good Luck!



#4 gbhrps

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Posted 12 February 2008 - 09:39 PM

herb,
You can check, but I'd bet that you'll not be able to get just the part you want, and you'll have to get the entire assembly. Sometimes you can get just the motor or just the regulator, but trying to purchase just one part of the regulator most likely can't be done. Hint! When you finally get to the job ...... mark the bolt locations for any you remove from the door in order to remove the window regulator. When you get the new parts installed it'll save you having to realign the glass in the opening, and the glass should fit perfectly without any fiddling. Good Luck!

#5 jet_a_jockey

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 12:00 AM

i have this same issue with mine. I'm still trying to find a window regulator for it, other than buying a whole door from the junkyard (they didnt want to part it out). Seriously considering blocking it in place until I can find a new one :D

#6 gbhrps

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 06:24 PM

I don't know for sure but this may be worth a try. The same model year Camry has MANY interchangeable parts with the ES 300. The brake parts are all interchangeable between the 2 models, (put all new Camry rotors and pads on the wife's 97 ES years ago) and the interior door mechanisms may well be the same as well. A combined Toyota/Lexus dealership should be able to cross-reference the part numbers for you.

#7 dcfish

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Posted 13 February 2008 - 06:37 PM

I don't know for sure but this may be worth a try. The same model year Camry has MANY interchangeable parts with the ES 300. The brake parts are all interchangeable between the 2 models, (put all new Camry rotors and pads on the wife's 97 ES years ago) and the interior door mechanisms may well be the same as well. A combined Toyota/Lexus dealership should be able to cross-reference the part numbers for you.

http://www.taprecycling.com/ All of your toyota/lexus parts you'll ever need. :cheers:

#8 jet_a_jockey

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Posted 14 February 2008 - 02:05 AM

I don't know for sure but this may be worth a try. The same model year Camry has MANY interchangeable parts with the ES 300. The brake parts are all interchangeable between the 2 models, (put all new Camry rotors and pads on the wife's 97 ES years ago) and the interior door mechanisms may well be the same as well. A combined Toyota/Lexus dealership should be able to cross-reference the part numbers for you.

http://www.taprecycling.com/ All of your toyota/lexus parts you'll ever need.:cheers:


yes tap is good, i also checked ebay yesterday and found at least 10 auctions so theres another option. regulator price looked to be around 75-100 used and 125 or so new. lexus dealership can get it also for around 130 something.

#9 awathano

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Posted 28 February 2008 - 12:35 PM

herb,
If you have the patience, the usual home mechanic's tools, a place to do the work, and a little mechanical savvy, its a DIYer. Over the years I've done many of these on a lot of different cars. They all have a different setup of motors and window assemblies, but they are pretty much the same when it comes to how to change them out. I suggest buying a used motor/regulator assembly(for the same rear door) from a junkyard and doing a swap. The glass rides in a front and rear channel and is usually connected to a sliding channel across its bottom edge by two bolts or plastic sliding grips through the glass. To get to these bolts or clips you'll have to slide the glass down until these bolts/clips line up with holes or ports through the steel inside panel of the door. After you undo these fasteners, you'll be able to separate the glass from the bottom channel. Then rotate the glass through 20 degrees or so to drop its leading edge from the front channel and lift the glass out of the door towards the inside of the car. Now you just locate and undo the bolts that hold the motor/window assembly to the interior steel panel of the door. There are usually 4 of them but there could be one or two extra. Unclip the wiring harness to the assembly and pull the motor/regulator out through the largest opening in the door shell. Putting the new/used regulator in is just the reverse, and be sure to test its operation fully before you hang the interior door panel back on. See if you can purchase an entire door including the glass, with the understanding that you'll return the door and its glass for a refund after you get the motor/regulator assembly out. That way you'll be able to take your time to see how the unit comes apart, before you do the work on your car. I don't know how it works where you live, but we have several wrecking yards here that will allow you to remove your own parts. Good Luck!


I have a 96 ES300 and both of the front windows will not go up or down. Occassionally, the driver side will go up but it will take hours to get it to roll all the way up. The dealer offers a window motor/regulator/cable assembly [must be purchaseed together], however auto parts store offer just the motor and or regulator. Will I need both the motor, regulator, and the cable to repair my window? If so, why does the auto part store offer these units separately? Any advice on getting my windows repaired?

#10 gbhrps

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Posted 28 February 2008 - 06:42 PM

Awathano,
There is no way to tell what parts you will need to fix your inoperative windows until you do some preliminary exploration. Don't buy anything until you test a few things. Pull the window fuse and relay and switch them with other good ones from the fuse panels to see if your problems lay there. My previous experiences have taught me to then suspect dirty power window switches. Easily enough done since the switch modules usually can be pried up out of the arm rest using a taped up flat-bladed screw driver (to prevent scratches). Remove the switches and spray electrical contact cleaner into any seams/openings you can find and cycle the switch several times and repeat. Give them time to evaporate the cleaner, reattach to the harness and test to see if they work. ( Assuming that yo don't have the power window lock switch activated.) You could use a test meter to see if the switches are working before and after cleaning as well. Next check the rubber gaters at the front door hinge areas. Slide them back from the door or from the body of the car and check to see if you have any frayed or broken wires. If you don't find the cause of the problem there, then you have to pull the inner door panels to get at the mechanisms and the remainder of the wiring. Again check for corroded connections and broken/frayed wires. Take some long heavy wire and a good 12 volt power source and try powering the window motors themselves. Reversing the wires will make the windows go in the other direction. By now you should have found your problem. If not, check the driver's door interior for the power window amplifier, a small relay-like box that is on the same circuit as the motors and switches. I do not know how to test it (no factory service manual to look at), but if you get to this stage your best bet is a repair technician. Not a bad deal even at this point, since you will have saved the expense of paying to have the door panels removed and replaced. This is not rocket science, and with a little snooping around you may be able to solve the problem yourself, and save some coin. Good Luck!

#11 awathano

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Posted 29 February 2008 - 09:34 AM

Thanks a bunches. I'll give it a try.

#12 kcpartsguy

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Posted 29 February 2008 - 10:38 AM

Camry and ES window regulators do not interchange on a 1997.
You can buy the regulator assy. by itself LF is pn 69802-33020 $146.16
or you can buy with motor 69820-33040 $596.93
usually just need regulator though.

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