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Codes P1354 And P1349


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#1 rxr300houston

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Posted 02 February 2008 - 08:53 PM

I thought I would write a solution that worked for me. This relates to codes P1354 and P1349, related codes and symptoms.

Code P1354 VVI Malfunction Bank 2. Bank 2 is closest to the radiator. Often called the left side.
Resulting codes:

Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires
Codes: P0302, P0304. P0306 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 2, 4 and 6.
Possible code also- Code: 1153 - AF/ sensor bank 2 sensor 1


OR

Code P1349 VVI Malfunction Bank 1. Bank 1 the difficult side where the intake body is. Often called the right side.

Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires
Codes: P0301, P0303. P0305 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 1, 3 and 5.
Code for A/F sensor as well.


Driving symptoms:
The check engine light may come on periodically and go off after some driving. You may attribute it to a poorly closed gas cap ( may be the problem). You may not notice any significant performance issues.
At some point the idle may get rough due to the misfire, it may idle well when cold and become rough when warm. Ignore it and there may be a fish bite (jerk) at multiple speeds and revs. You may drive at a constant speed and the car cuts back and then revs up.

The brakes seem to become hard as well since insufficiently vacuum is created at idle.

Solution:
The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.

The first thing is to panic, and think the coils may be the problem. If you car was running OK highly unlikely all three coils on one bank will suddenly develop go bad simultaneously. The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.

If it is sludge that is causing the OCV to stick, then you have a bigger problem to address. Remove the valve covers to see if there is sludge.
You are luck if the electrical connections are a loose.

More then likely, it is the Oil Control Valve (OCV). Being VVT, the intake valves stroke is determined by engine RPM and load through the ECM and sensors. This in turn regulates the OCV allowing more or less oil through to control the intake valve stroke.


Replacing the OCV is an easy task. Start with taking of the plastic engine cover. I have attached some pictures.
To remove the OCV, remove any obstructing pipes if you have to (I did not).
Remove the electrical connector and 10mm head bolt.
Rotate it to break the O ring seal pull it out. You may need a flat end screwdriver to pry it under from underneath the flange.

Replace with a new one. Be careful not to mix the left and right sides. The one in the picture is bank 2, left.

This may not be the solution for everyone but it worked.

The OCV from the dealer is about $100 and 10 minutes to install. If you are close to http://www.twsparts.com/ they sell genuine Lexus parts ($80).
http://www.parkplace...?DealershipID=5 has them online cheaper but you have to pay shipping.


Hope this helps some out there.

Maistran.

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#2 rxr300houston

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Posted 02 February 2008 - 08:57 PM

Uploads are giving me a problem. Will try again.

#3 ptung07

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 06:51 PM

Hey man,
I think I have the same issue as what you were describing. If possible, can you email me the pictures and or directions to fix this issue? I have sent you a PM. This problem is driving me off the wall because I replaced all 6 spark plugs today and still get the cylinder misfire Check Engine Error code. The previous code was for cylinders 2, 4, 6. But I still changed all 6 spark plugs.
Thanks again , Paul

#4 ptung07

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Posted 23 February 2008 - 06:53 PM

Hmmm, I cannot send you a PM... Just let me know how you can send me the pics or post it online.

#5 blk_on_blk

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 05:06 PM

Does anyone know where the OCV for the right side of the engine is located? Pics would be of great help! Thanks in Advance!

#6 blk_on_blk

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Posted 29 June 2008 - 11:19 PM

Incase anyone has this problem, here are a few pics of the part and its/their location...

Attached Files



#7 samuelo

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Posted 15 February 2009 - 11:26 AM

Dear Maistran
Thanks for the help but i do not see any pictures .Thanks
:)

I thought I would write a solution that worked for me. This relates to codes P1354 and P1349, related codes and symptoms.

Code P1354 VVI Malfunction Bank 2. Bank 2 is closest to the radiator. Often called the left side.
Resulting codes:

Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires
Codes: P0302, P0304. P0306 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 2, 4 and 6.
Possible code also- Code: 1153 - AF/ sensor bank 2 sensor 1


OR

Code P1349 VVI Malfunction Bank 1. Bank 1 the difficult side where the intake body is. Often called the right side.

Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires
Codes: P0301, P0303. P0305 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 1, 3 and 5.
Code for A/F sensor as well.


Driving symptoms:
The check engine light may come on periodically and go off after some driving. You may attribute it to a poorly closed gas cap ( may be the problem). You may not notice any significant performance issues.
At some point the idle may get rough due to the misfire, it may idle well when cold and become rough when warm. Ignore it and there may be a fish bite (jerk) at multiple speeds and revs. You may drive at a constant speed and the car cuts back and then revs up.

The brakes seem to become hard as well since insufficiently vacuum is created at idle.

Solution:
The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.

The first thing is to panic, and think the coils may be the problem. If you car was running OK highly unlikely all three coils on one bank will suddenly develop go bad simultaneously. The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc.

If it is sludge that is causing the OCV to stick, then you have a bigger problem to address. Remove the valve covers to see if there is sludge.
You are luck if the electrical connections are a loose.

More then likely, it is the Oil Control Valve (OCV). Being VVT, the intake valves stroke is determined by engine RPM and load through the ECM and sensors. This in turn regulates the OCV allowing more or less oil through to control the intake valve stroke.


Replacing the OCV is an easy task. Start with taking of the plastic engine cover. I have attached some pictures.
To remove the OCV, remove any obstructing pipes if you have to (I did not).
Remove the electrical connector and 10mm head bolt.
Rotate it to break the O ring seal pull it out. You may need a flat end screwdriver to pry it under from underneath the flange.

Replace with a new one. Be careful not to mix the left and right sides. The one in the picture is bank 2, left.

This may not be the solution for everyone but it worked.

The OCV from the dealer is about $100 and 10 minutes to install. If you are close to http://www.twsparts.com/ they sell genuine Lexus parts ($80).
http://www.parkplace...?DealershipID=5 has them online cheaper but you have to pay shipping.


Hope this helps some out there.

Maistran.



#8 rayman99

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Posted 05 March 2009 - 10:35 AM

Thanks RX300Houston for your post, it was a great help. I also had Codes p1354, p0300, p0302, p0304, p0306, with rough idle and hard brake pedal. After reading your post, I removed the Bank 2 OCV, it looked clean. The coil resistance checked normal at about 7 ohms, and applying 12 volts to it caused it to operate. I reinstalled it, hoping it was just a dirty electrical connection which maybe now was corrected, but same problem. I removed the valve again and cleaned it with carb cleaner, reinstalled it and with engine running at fast idle, applied 12 volts directly to it on and off several dozen times. I could tell it was working, because the engine would change speed as I did so, and I was hoping this would flush any dirt or gunk from the valve and actuator. It actually got worse after that, and on the highway it seemed like half the cylinders were intermittently cutting out.

I removed both valves, hoping to swap them for troubleshooting, but they are not interchangeable. I took a wooden golf tee, and moved the spools on both valves back and forth, and guess what? The spool on the good side moved smooth as silk, but the bad side it was slightly sticky. So checking it with 12 volts is not a good test, because in operation the valve is modulating against the return spring by varying width pulses, and must move freely.

Anyway, I bought a new valve at the Lexus dealer and now my RX300 is back to it's old self. Hope this helps somebody.
:) :)

#9 jdubyah

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Posted 07 March 2009 - 04:54 PM

Has anyone also had tranny problems along with the OCV problems? I have very similar symptoms as described in the post. Rough idle, check engine light, etc. However now my rx is not upshifting into overdrive at highway speeds. From the posts, I know that RX trannies are notoriously problematic. Thanks for any input

#10 tmastres

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Posted 07 March 2009 - 06:41 PM

Has anyone also had tranny problems along with the OCV problems? I have very similar symptoms as described in the post. Rough idle, check engine light, etc. However now my rx is not upshifting into overdrive at highway speeds. From the posts, I know that RX trannies are notoriously problematic. Thanks for any input


I'm just speculating here but I vaguely remember that you may not be able to utilize OD while there are misfire codes pending. If you got the CEL then you would have codes pending. Have you had the codes read? If not that's definitely the first step. Rough idle and a CEL are also the classic symptoms of a coil failure, not uncommon in 99's. Seeing these posts and comparing my own and other incidents of coil failure I'd say the way you can tell which-is-which is that in coil failure situations you 'll usually have only one (final) cylinder misfire code, where in the OCV incidents it appears you get an entire bank misfiring or at least more than one cylinder. There is a caveat, however. A failed coil will cause misfire codes in other cylinders if you drive a good distance with the misfire. In that case you'd need to clear the codes and check them as soon as the CEL came back on.

#11 44095 ES300

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 06:00 AM

Please i have a 99 ES 300 with a code P1349. But i don't know where the OCV is located, PIC will be a wonderful help

#12 Famous Grouse

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Posted 21 December 2010 - 01:37 PM

Just want to say thanks for the help. My '99 RX300 threw all the codes indicating Bank 2 VVTi failure. Replacing the OCV worked for me. I also replaced the A/F sensor, not sure if this was strictly necessary, but Bank 1 Sensor 1 was replaced 2 years ago, I figured it was probably time.

#13 Joseph G

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Posted 24 February 2011 - 06:54 PM

great site this fix also worked for me i will include part number's right side bank 1-3-5 15330 2-4-6 15340 pay attetion to the photo and don't panic has not run so good

#14 PJRX300

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Posted 01 February 2014 - 03:57 PM

I know it's an old thread but I had a flashing cel on Wednesday - 2001 RX300 140k miles.  Wife went to merlin and they said timing belt, af sensors.... all came out to about $2400!

 

I found this, ordered the VVT solenoid (OCV) for under $50, just got back from paying a half hour labor and all codes are gone and vehicle is running perfect again!  I kept the old one and it had cracked near the electical connection - maybe the sub zero temps earlier in the week?

 

Either way the peace of mind of knowing 3 cylinders are not misfiring and I don't need to spend a ton to stay up and running is priceless:

 

A big thank you to the forum!



#15 wndmll

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Posted 12 February 2014 - 08:39 PM

I had the same issues today... Googled the code and found this site... $97 bucks and an hour later up and running like new... Thanks rxr300houston...

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