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1999 Rx300 Door Lock Actuator Repair Less Than $15

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1999 Lexus RX300 Drivers side door.

O.K. I'm stuck. I know this old posts but again I am old too. (77)'

What I need is to get then wireing straight for the piggy back doopr lock application.

I just can't seem to find the right color code for wires and where these wires are located?

Any takers?

DIMWIT

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Cancel post #201

This is for drivers door 1999 Lexus RX300

Found the wires. Went over to where the wires go directly to the actuator. Colors are blue/yellow & blue/red.

Dennis

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You should not use after market hardware that may not work relibaly,

You should disassemble the door plastic panel and replace with the OEM's $300 power door lock assembly.

Or you can take the motor out of the actuator assembly, then clean the small Mabuchi motor's rotor or replace the small Mabuchi motor inside.

Either way it saves the $500 min dealer visit:

Replace Power door lock $6 Mabuchi motor by peterpan99 Aug 25, 2013 (7:10 pm)

Procedure to replace power door lock motor, just $6 Mabuchi motor,
not the whole door lock assembly (about $285 at stealers)

Mabuchi motor FC-280PC-22125, about $6 in eBay. This motor is used in all Lexus and Toyota cars

if you hit the power door lock switch and the lock wont lock or only lock partially, most likely the mabuchi motor inside the assembly is worn, dirty or burned out. This motor can be taken out and replaced within 1 hour if you are familiar with the door lock assembly and know what you are doing. Byt he second time, you should be able to finish it within 30 minuted.

1. You can leave the lock assembly in the door. You dont have to remove these 3 screws unless you want better access to the motor housing

Just remove 1 small screw on the white nylon shroud covering the motor housing to lift it up. The nylon shroud is flexible and wont break or cracked.

2. Remove 2 screws that hold the motor housing to the bracket, then wiggle the housing to free its actuator off the end of the wire cable. You may have to hold the cable with a pair of pliers. Pull the motor housing out of the assembly. There are 2 other actuators that will just drop out.

3. Use a knife or sharp blade and flat-head screw driver, cut and pry open the glued motor housing along the long edges. Anything broken can be glued back.

4 Use flat-head screw driver, pry motor (and worm gear) out of housing.

5. Replace with new Mabuchi motor FC-280PC-22125, sold for about $6 in eBay. This motor is used for all Lexus and Toyota cars, probably some Hondas .

Interchange Part Number: FC-280PT-22125
Other Part Number: KF243G-101

Motor body length is 30 mm, with shaft 15 mm long,
Total length is 45 mm from butt to end of shaft.
Shaft diameter is 2 mm.

Body height is 25 mm, depth 20 mm.

There is a collar at the end of the shaft. heat it up and yank off with plier.

Add grease to to the worm gear. Glue housing back with crazy glue or clear RTV.

Reverse the assembly.

Save yourself $285 parts plus $200 labor at the stealers.

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Huge thank you to all that contributed to this thread! Just fixed my front door using the piggy back method. Several hours, less than $10, works better than ever. I don't think anyone would be able to tell the difference between OE and a $5 actuator.

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After doing the piggyback fix, I'm getting some weird stuff. When I first get in the car and start it up, the locks all unlock once. It never did this before. It's also randomly setting off the alarm after unlocking the doors when I first open the drivers side door. Any ideas what is going on??

Thanks!

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TOOK A DIFFERENT APPROACH -   Purchased a rebuilt '99 RX 300 Driver's Door Lock Actuator PN 690040-48020 (Left side) and a Trim Removal Kit on EBay.  Watched several DIY YouTube Videos, one even in a foreign language I do not speak, then went to it.  As with any new venture things always look so easy when you watch a professional do it.  I organized all the removed screws into separate bags with locations annotated.  Hardest things: (1) Removing the Woodgrain Panel that contains the window switches, it's not apparent how the top locking tab connects until you remove it.  (2) Disconnecting the actuator cables that attach to the exterior knob, some videos said to simple reach up inside the door and unsnap the cables without any hints how to do it so I removed the knob and did-connected the cables while extending the knob assemble outside the car, not that hard but would have been nice knowing up-front..... (3) Nothing mentioned that there is a window track that wraps around the rear of the actuator that has to be unscrewed then swung-out in order to remove the actuator itself.  On reversing the process and installing the replacement nothing addresses the Window Track you have to maneuver around......All seemed to go well, Door Locks work fine (like a new car after waiting 3 years to fix) then went to the bank drive thru yesterday...

OH NO.....PROBLEM, window retracts about halfway then starts binding-up...........I quickly reversed the window direction, never to touch that again until I investigate further...In the next day or two I will remove the inside panel again.......... 

With this post I  hope someone might have some experience with the Window Track and walk me thru how to realign it, no doubt I'll have to test the window with the panel off to ensure it's A-OK before sealing everything back up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated........ THANK YOU............ 

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On ‎8‎/‎19‎/‎2017 at 11:36 AM, sriddle1nh said:

OH NO.....PROBLEM, window retracts about halfway then starts binding-up...........I quickly reversed the window direction, never to touch that again until I investigate further...In the next day or two I will remove the inside panel again.......... 

 

OK went to Dollar General and got a cheap Hand Held Mirror......... When I pulled the old Actuator I had to unscrew what is called the "Rear Lower Frame"  (see attached Diagram)...Not too keen on how they named that part, it's actually the Lower Window Track with a rubber guide for the window to continue its slide downward into the door.  That Lower Frame goes behind the actuator and you have to unscrew it in order to slide the actuator out.   I didn't realize there was a small tab on the top of the Rear Lower Frame (see attached Diagram) that slides/connects into the upper frame (supporting the window when it is rolled-up) to keep the Window Upper/Lower Tracks aligned.  I simply unscrewed the Rear Lower Frame, re-inserted the tab in the upper frame and re-attached the screw.    ALL IS WELL.............

REAR LOWER FRAME.jpg

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