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1999 Rx300 Door Lock Actuator Repair Less Than $15


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#1 indiana

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Posted 30 September 2007 - 04:53 PM

I had a common problem with my right rear door actuator. It kept getting weaker and weaker slowing down and eventually not working at all. I did a search on Lexus actuator on ebay and came up with an inexpensive universal actuator which you will see below in the installation instructions.


When I opened up the panel in the door it seemed to be near impossible to install this new actuator in any way. After dinking around trying this or that. I decided
I would attach the actuator rod to the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator to try and make the new actuator work. This requires leaving the old non functioning actuator and parts in place.

1. Drill a hole the same diameter as the new actuator rod in the wider part of the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator right next to the where the manual locking wire hooks up to the old actuator cam lever.

2. Cut the new actuator rod to fit your application. Bend the new actuator rod end the same way the manual locking wire is bent. Grind the rod end a little thinner as it is tight under the locking cam lever and it will rub on the housing otherwise.

3. Have the new actuator attached at the other end of the rod first. Attach the rod through the hole you made in the cam lever the same way as the manual locking wire is attached.

4. Reinstall the entire door locking mechanism back in the door leaving the actuator hanging out the access hole.

5. Attach the mounting strap to the new actuator using 2 long bolts place 2 spacers or multiple washers between the strap and the actuator this way
you can put the actuator just inside the access hole in the door (spacing it carefully not to interfere with the power window)
thus allowing you to screw the strap to the outer door panel.

6. You will need to cut a little of the white thin plastic protector shroud on the old actuator to make good clearance for the new actuator rod coming out through the door access hole.

7. Adjust the new actuator for locking and unlocking slack before fastening the mounting strap with screws to the door.

8. Splice the 2 new wires into the 2 larger wires coming off the old actuator (splice them in don't cut the old wires) (You may have to reverse the wires (before soldering or crimping) to make sure you have them unlocking & locking in sequence with the rest of the door locks)


It actually works better than the original with shipping it costs less than 15.00 for the parts. I used lock washers on the bolts. It would probably be good to use locktight on all screws. I have no pictures, but If you read this carefully you know it can be done and is not very difficult. I haven't tried this on the front doors yet, but will eventually have to. I hope it goes as well for me... At least it wors for the back doors. Good Luck to you!... Indi

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#2 Garth Vader

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Posted 30 September 2007 - 06:43 PM

Hi Indi,

I'm having the same problem with my front passenger door. Given the cost for new parts and labor, almost $500 in California at the dealership, I'm tempted to try your fix, but reading through several posts, it sounds like a nightmare to get the door panels off. Can you provide step-by-step instructions? Of course any photos you might have of your work would be greatly appreciated too. Thanks for your great fix!

#3 indiana

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Posted 30 September 2007 - 08:45 PM

Hi Indi,

I'm having the same problem with my front passenger door. Given the cost for new parts and labor, almost $500 in California at the dealership, I'm tempted to try your fix, but reading through several posts, it sounds like a nightmare to get the door panels off. Can you provide step-by-step instructions? Of course any photos you might have of your work would be greatly appreciated too. Thanks for your great fix!



It's not too hard I have had both front and back panels off, just be careful not to lock your keys in the car like I did :)

If you have an RX maybe other models are similar the door open lever inside has a screw in it
There are 2 big screws in the door pull shut handle inside.
There is a series of push in fasteners around the edge panel of the door, you just push the center in and they pull right out
There are 2 screws on the bottom of the door panel.
The power window switches pry up carefully they have clips that hold them in. There should be a panel screw under there too. Unplug the switches and set them aside.
After removing all the screws..
You should be able to remove the door now.. Pull down under the bottom lip/edge and pop the bottom out first lift up and you can remove it being careful to unplug any wires....
I edited my text in the first message it should be easier to read now...... I even had a hard time reading it.. LOL
I did this actuator on the rear door. The front door may be a little different or maybe easier. Let us know how it goes. It won't hurt that much to try the part is cheap enough. Check my edit from above a front door application may be easier as there are connecting rods to the key lock..

#4 indiana

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Posted 08 October 2007 - 10:28 PM

I did a conversion on the front door tonight. It cannot be connected to the lock connecting rod as the lock connecting rod will not move without the key in the door lock. So I installed it in an almost similar fashion to the rear door installation hooking it to the old locking actuator. The front actuator is positioned different so I had to hook the connecting rod to the bottom cam stop lever. It's the little lever, a position stop with the rubber band bumper around it. There is already a hole in it so I pushed the rod through it so the riveted end of the rod was on this cam lever. I bent an open loop in the other end to hook up the actuator. I had to install the actuator inside the door towards the bottom of the door using no strap and putting 2 screws (supplied) through door panel directly into the actuator screw holes. I snapped some pictures these are a bit large, but will show you close up how I connected the rod to the old and new actuator. After I hooked everything up making sure the polarity was correct before soldering the wires (never use crimps) it works excellent. The wires aren't attached yet in this picture.... Indi

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  • rx300_actuator.jpg


#5 wynstan

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Posted 12 October 2007 - 12:48 AM

Very nice. I happened to have the same issue. Thank you so much for your contribution!

Wynstan

I did a conversion on the front door tonight. It cannot be connected to the lock connecting rod as the lock connecting rod will not move without the key in the door lock. So I installed it in an almost similar fashion to the rear door installation hooking it to the old locking actuator. The front actuator is positioned different so I had to hook the connecting rod to the bottom cam stop lever. It's the little lever, a position stop with the rubber band bumper around it. There is already a hole in it so I pushed the rod through it so the riveted end of the rod was on this cam lever. I bent an open loop in the other end to hook up the actuator. I had to install the actuator inside the door towards the bottom of the door using no strap and putting 2 screws (supplied) through door panel directly into the actuator screw holes. I snapped some pictures these are a bit large, but will show you close up how I connected the rod to the old and new actuator. After I hooked everything up making sure the polarity was correct before soldering the wires (never use crimps) it works excellent. The wires aren't attached yet in this picture.... Indi



#6 indiana

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Posted 12 October 2007 - 10:35 PM

You are welcome! Let us know how your repair goes... Indi

#7 showster

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Posted 17 October 2007 - 09:59 AM

I have a 2000 Rx 300, no luck removing the door panel....somewhere I'm missing a screw? Help?

#8 lenore

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Posted 17 October 2007 - 02:34 PM

did you get the screw under the switch assembly. I mean you have to remove the switch assembly to get to it.....

#9 indiana

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Posted 18 October 2007 - 09:45 PM

if it is the same as 1999 front door there is a screw under the window switches, one under the inside door open lever, another under the arm rest, and 2 under the very bottom of the door in plain site. The rear door is a little different. there is a plastic cover over the end arm rest bottom screw.

#10 showster

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Posted 19 October 2007 - 11:56 AM

if it is the same as 1999 front door there is a screw under the window switches, one under the inside door open lever, another under the arm rest, and 2 under the very bottom of the door in plain site. The rear door is a little different. there is a plastic cover over the end arm rest bottom screw.


Removed all still seemed like something was holding it (seemed like it was still secured somewhere near the door open lever). Did not want to force it, help?

#11 indiana

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Posted 19 October 2007 - 04:53 PM

I know exactly what you mean. If you first took the screw out from behind the door open lever, then there are still some plastic hook like hinges holding the handle in. There are 2 plastic tooth hinges that that hook into the sheet metal you pull out on the end of the plastic surround pulling out near the end of the lever and pry it out to unhook it you should then be able to remove it. It's about then that you realize how cheesy the door open lever is :)

#12 showster

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Posted 21 October 2007 - 08:12 AM

I know exactly what you mean. If you first took the screw out from behind the door open lever, then there are still some plastic hook like hinges holding the handle in. There are 2 plastic tooth hinges that that hook into the sheet metal you pull out on the end of the plastic surround pulling out near the end of the lever and pry it out to unhook it you should then be able to remove it. It's about then that you realize how cheesy the door open lever is :)


Can you requote that, i did not understand it? Am I prying the door lever assembly out?

#13 indiana

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Posted 21 October 2007 - 10:55 AM

A screw holds in one side two hooks hold in the other side it is hooked into the sheet metal. You don't usually have to pry it out as much as you would tilt it out so you can unhook it from the holes.. Let us know.... Indi

#14 Jasonkidd

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Posted 29 April 2008 - 12:49 AM

for 2000 RX 300 Driver door

just follow Indi's instruction on how to remove the door panel ( 3 removable pins and screw around the panel. 1 screw under the armrest, 1 under the door lock switches, 1 behind the inside door opening lever)

there are two bundled wires inside the door panel and you need to look for the blue wires inside of a 6 wire bundle. connect the blue actuator wire to the BLUE/YELLOW wire and connect the GREEN antuator wire to the BLUE/RED wire.

TIPS

1. a metal file will be useful for grinding parts
2. attached the new actuator first with the window glass up to get some good clearance
3. aligator clips are very helpful when testing

#15 lenore

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Posted 29 April 2008 - 08:39 AM

for 2000 RX 300 Driver door

just follow Indi's instruction on how to remove the door panel ( 3 removable pins and screw around the panel. 1 screw under the armrest, 1 under the door lock switches, 1 behind the inside door opening lever)

there are two bundled wires inside the door panel and you need to look for the blue wires inside of a 6 wire bundle. connect the blue actuator wire to the BLUE/YELLOW wire and connect the GREEN antuator wire to the BLUE/RED wire.

TIPS

1. a metal file will be useful for grinding parts
2. attached the new actuator first with the window glass up to get some good clearance
3. aligator clips are very helpful when testing

here is a threadwith pictures for door panel removeal:
http://www.clublexus...ad.php?t=288373

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