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indiana

1999 Rx300 Door Lock Actuator Repair Less Than $15

205 posts in this topic

I had a common problem with my right rear door actuator. It kept getting weaker and weaker slowing down and eventually not working at all. I did a search on Lexus actuator on ebay and came up with an inexpensive universal actuator which you will see below in the installation instructions.

When I opened up the panel in the door it seemed to be near impossible to install this new actuator in any way. After dinking around trying this or that. I decided

I would attach the actuator rod to the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator to try and make the new actuator work. This requires leaving the old non functioning actuator and parts in place.

1. Drill a hole the same diameter as the new actuator rod in the wider part of the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator right next to the where the manual locking wire hooks up to the old actuator cam lever.

2. Cut the new actuator rod to fit your application. Bend the new actuator rod end the same way the manual locking wire is bent. Grind the rod end a little thinner as it is tight under the locking cam lever and it will rub on the housing otherwise.

3. Have the new actuator attached at the other end of the rod first. Attach the rod through the hole you made in the cam lever the same way as the manual locking wire is attached.

4. Reinstall the entire door locking mechanism back in the door leaving the actuator hanging out the access hole.

5. Attach the mounting strap to the new actuator using 2 long bolts place 2 spacers or multiple washers between the strap and the actuator this way

you can put the actuator just inside the access hole in the door (spacing it carefully not to interfere with the power window)

thus allowing you to screw the strap to the outer door panel.

6. You will need to cut a little of the white thin plastic protector shroud on the old actuator to make good clearance for the new actuator rod coming out through the door access hole.

7. Adjust the new actuator for locking and unlocking slack before fastening the mounting strap with screws to the door.

8. Splice the 2 new wires into the 2 larger wires coming off the old actuator (splice them in don't cut the old wires) (You may have to reverse the wires (before soldering or crimping) to make sure you have them unlocking & locking in sequence with the rest of the door locks)

It actually works better than the original with shipping it costs less than 15.00 for the parts. I used lock washers on the bolts. It would probably be good to use locktight on all screws. I have no pictures, but If you read this carefully you know it can be done and is not very difficult. I haven't tried this on the front doors yet, but will eventually have to. I hope it goes as well for me... At least it wors for the back doors. Good Luck to you!... Indi

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Hi Indi,

I'm having the same problem with my front passenger door. Given the cost for new parts and labor, almost $500 in California at the dealership, I'm tempted to try your fix, but reading through several posts, it sounds like a nightmare to get the door panels off. Can you provide step-by-step instructions? Of course any photos you might have of your work would be greatly appreciated too. Thanks for your great fix!

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Hi Indi,

I'm having the same problem with my front passenger door. Given the cost for new parts and labor, almost $500 in California at the dealership, I'm tempted to try your fix, but reading through several posts, it sounds like a nightmare to get the door panels off. Can you provide step-by-step instructions? Of course any photos you might have of your work would be greatly appreciated too. Thanks for your great fix!

It's not too hard I have had both front and back panels off, just be careful not to lock your keys in the car like I did :)

If you have an RX maybe other models are similar the door open lever inside has a screw in it

There are 2 big screws in the door pull shut handle inside.

There is a series of push in fasteners around the edge panel of the door, you just push the center in and they pull right out

There are 2 screws on the bottom of the door panel.

The power window switches pry up carefully they have clips that hold them in. There should be a panel screw under there too. Unplug the switches and set them aside.

After removing all the screws..

You should be able to remove the door now.. Pull down under the bottom lip/edge and pop the bottom out first lift up and you can remove it being careful to unplug any wires....

I edited my text in the first message it should be easier to read now...... I even had a hard time reading it.. LOL

I did this actuator on the rear door. The front door may be a little different or maybe easier. Let us know how it goes. It won't hurt that much to try the part is cheap enough. Check my edit from above a front door application may be easier as there are connecting rods to the key lock..

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I did a conversion on the front door tonight. It cannot be connected to the lock connecting rod as the lock connecting rod will not move without the key in the door lock. So I installed it in an almost similar fashion to the rear door installation hooking it to the old locking actuator. The front actuator is positioned different so I had to hook the connecting rod to the bottom cam stop lever. It's the little lever, a position stop with the rubber band bumper around it. There is already a hole in it so I pushed the rod through it so the riveted end of the rod was on this cam lever. I bent an open loop in the other end to hook up the actuator. I had to install the actuator inside the door towards the bottom of the door using no strap and putting 2 screws (supplied) through door panel directly into the actuator screw holes. I snapped some pictures these are a bit large, but will show you close up how I connected the rod to the old and new actuator. After I hooked everything up making sure the polarity was correct before soldering the wires (never use crimps) it works excellent. The wires aren't attached yet in this picture.... Indi

post-29561-1192057568_thumb.jpg

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Very nice. I happened to have the same issue. Thank you so much for your contribution!

Wynstan

I did a conversion on the front door tonight. It cannot be connected to the lock connecting rod as the lock connecting rod will not move without the key in the door lock. So I installed it in an almost similar fashion to the rear door installation hooking it to the old locking actuator. The front actuator is positioned different so I had to hook the connecting rod to the bottom cam stop lever. It's the little lever, a position stop with the rubber band bumper around it. There is already a hole in it so I pushed the rod through it so the riveted end of the rod was on this cam lever. I bent an open loop in the other end to hook up the actuator. I had to install the actuator inside the door towards the bottom of the door using no strap and putting 2 screws (supplied) through door panel directly into the actuator screw holes. I snapped some pictures these are a bit large, but will show you close up how I connected the rod to the old and new actuator. After I hooked everything up making sure the polarity was correct before soldering the wires (never use crimps) it works excellent. The wires aren't attached yet in this picture.... Indi

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I have a 2000 Rx 300, no luck removing the door panel....somewhere I'm missing a screw? Help?

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did you get the screw under the switch assembly. I mean you have to remove the switch assembly to get to it.....

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if it is the same as 1999 front door there is a screw under the window switches, one under the inside door open lever, another under the arm rest, and 2 under the very bottom of the door in plain site. The rear door is a little different. there is a plastic cover over the end arm rest bottom screw.

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if it is the same as 1999 front door there is a screw under the window switches, one under the inside door open lever, another under the arm rest, and 2 under the very bottom of the door in plain site. The rear door is a little different. there is a plastic cover over the end arm rest bottom screw.

Removed all still seemed like something was holding it (seemed like it was still secured somewhere near the door open lever). Did not want to force it, help?

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I know exactly what you mean. If you first took the screw out from behind the door open lever, then there are still some plastic hook like hinges holding the handle in. There are 2 plastic tooth hinges that that hook into the sheet metal you pull out on the end of the plastic surround pulling out near the end of the lever and pry it out to unhook it you should then be able to remove it. It's about then that you realize how cheesy the door open lever is :)

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I know exactly what you mean. If you first took the screw out from behind the door open lever, then there are still some plastic hook like hinges holding the handle in. There are 2 plastic tooth hinges that that hook into the sheet metal you pull out on the end of the plastic surround pulling out near the end of the lever and pry it out to unhook it you should then be able to remove it. It's about then that you realize how cheesy the door open lever is :)

Can you requote that, i did not understand it? Am I prying the door lever assembly out?

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A screw holds in one side two hooks hold in the other side it is hooked into the sheet metal. You don't usually have to pry it out as much as you would tilt it out so you can unhook it from the holes.. Let us know.... Indi

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for 2000 RX 300 Driver door

just follow Indi's instruction on how to remove the door panel ( 3 removable pins and screw around the panel. 1 screw under the armrest, 1 under the door lock switches, 1 behind the inside door opening lever)

there are two bundled wires inside the door panel and you need to look for the blue wires inside of a 6 wire bundle. connect the blue actuator wire to the BLUE/YELLOW wire and connect the GREEN antuator wire to the BLUE/RED wire.

TIPS

1. a metal file will be useful for grinding parts

2. attached the new actuator first with the window glass up to get some good clearance

3. aligator clips are very helpful when testing

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for 2000 RX 300 Driver door

just follow Indi's instruction on how to remove the door panel ( 3 removable pins and screw around the panel. 1 screw under the armrest, 1 under the door lock switches, 1 behind the inside door opening lever)

there are two bundled wires inside the door panel and you need to look for the blue wires inside of a 6 wire bundle. connect the blue actuator wire to the BLUE/YELLOW wire and connect the GREEN antuator wire to the BLUE/RED wire.

TIPS

1. a metal file will be useful for grinding parts

2. attached the new actuator first with the window glass up to get some good clearance

3. aligator clips are very helpful when testing

here is a threadwith pictures for door panel removeal:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288373

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I had the usual problem with my right rear door, the lock actuator getting weaker and weaker slowing down and eventually not working at all. I did a search on lexus actuator on ebay and came up with this part:

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item..._ACTUATOR_.html

When I opened up the panel in the door it seemed to be near impossible to install this new actuator in any way. After dinking around trying this or that. I decided

I would attach the actuator rod to the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator to try and make the new actuator work. This requires leaving the old non functioning actuator and parts in place.

1. Drill a hole the same diameter as the new actuator rod in the wider part of the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator right next to the where the manual locking wire hooks up to the old actuator cam lever.

2. Cut the new actuator rod to fit your application. Bend the new actuator rod end the same way the manual locking wire is bent. Grind the rod end a little thinner as it is tight under the locking cam lever and it will rub on the housing otherwise.

3. Have the new actuator attached at the other end of the rod first. Attach the rod through the hole you made in the cam lever the same way as the manual locking wire is attached.

4. Reinstall the entire door locking mechanism back in the door leaving the actuator hanging out the access hole.

5. Attach the mounting strap to the new actuator using 2 long bolts place 2 spacers or multiple washers between the strap and the actuator this way

you can put the actuator just inside the access hole in the door (spacing it carefully not to interfere with the power window)

thus allowing you to screw the strap to the outer door panel.

6. You will need to cut a little of the white thin plastic protector shroud on the old actuator to make good clearance for the new actuator rod coming out through the door access hole.

7. Adjust the new actuator for locking and unlocking slack before fastening the mounting strap with screws to the door.

8. Splice the 2 new wires into the 2 larger wires coming off the old actuator (splice them in don't cut the old wires) (You may have to reverse the wires (before soldering or crimping) to make sure you have them unlocking & locking in sequence with the rest of the door locks)

It actually works better than the original with shipping it costs less than 15.00 for the parts. I used lock washers on the bolts. It would probably be good to use locktight on all screws. I have no pictures, but If you read this carefully you know it can be done and is not very difficult. I haven't tried this on the front doors yet, but will eventually have to. I hope it goes as well for me... At least it wors for the back doors. Good Luck to you!... Indi

Thanks Indiana for re-reminding the folks that are just facing this VERY COSTLY repair for the 1st. time. There has been a lot written on it in the past- search will show. Also on Club Lexus. I did it on all 4 doors on my DIL's RX at actually $0. with free donated locks. You have to leave all the old lock actuators in place because they have all the strip sensors inside to operate all the other stuff that they interface with. Also, you don't have to drill any holes, there are already existing holes in the mechanism that aren't used. The drivers door works fine with the "piggy-back" lock- just like the original did. I could not see putting out $1300. for locks when this works just like the original and retains all the functions of the original assemblies. (sensors and all) They have worked flawlessly for almost 2 yrs. now. I just used 90 degree taps on the wires to piggy-back the wires onto the existing wires without cutting them. That's no problem here in corrosion free So. Cal.- wet areas probably should solder and water seal the connections.- Roger

P.S.- Don't be intimidated by the write-up on taking the door panels off- It's actually not bad once you've done one, by the second or third you could do it with your eyes closed.

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My RR door actuator stopped working as well. I used to install after market alarms and auto door locks for a living and I can't believe I never thought to do this. Thanks for the info.

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Well, my $262 actuator failed again only after 4 1/2 years. I bought a pair of lock actuators on ebay for $13.99 delivered to my house. Installed one today, I forgot how tight it was to replace the lock mechanism last time. My original actuator arm didnt have a hole, but a open slot. I had to drill a hole through the arm and used a paper clip to tie the actuator rod to that slot. the actuator solenoid motor is mounted like the picture in the earlier post, but position is important in that it can hit the window channel if positioned wrong. All said and done, it works, thanks for the great pictures. I have a spare solenoid for future failures...Cost less than $15.

Here is an example of the actuators:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-...p3756.m14.l1318

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Just wanted you guys to know that I just did my front, drivers side door with the Parts Express replacement. All the instructions were a great help, in fact, I wouldn't have figured it out without them.

My only catch was the polarity was reversed on my actuator - other than it went fine.

Thanks for all your help!

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Working on a 2000; I followed Indianas directions, were very good. Got the door panel off without a hitch, everything went smooth up until I went to pull the old actuator out to piggyback the new actuator to it. From what I am seeing, I cannot get the old acuator out far enough to work on it due to its plastic cover being installed behind the window guide. It seems I need to get the old acuator out to the vicinity of the large opening where the actuator wiring harness goes into the door. Have those of you who have completed this repair been able to get a drill in without getting the old actuator over to this area? Or, what am I not doing or missing that is keeping me from getting the old actuator out from behind the window guide and to a point where I can work on it (see and access the cams)?

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Working on a 2000; I followed Indianas directions, were very good. Got the door panel off without a hitch, everything went smooth up until I went to pull the old actuator out to piggyback the new actuator to it. From what I am seeing, I cannot get the old acuator out far enough to work on it due to its plastic cover being installed behind the window guide. It seems I need to get the old acuator out to the vicinity of the large opening where the actuator wiring harness goes into the door. Have those of you who have completed this repair been able to get a drill in without getting the old actuator over to this area? Or, what am I not doing or missing that is keeping me from getting the old actuator out from behind the window guide and to a point where I can work on it (see and access the cams)?

GLC- Yes you have to remove the plastic shield, and I believe the rear window guide. Don't quote me on that. (it's been about 2+ yrs. since I did it) You mentioned a drill. Someone else mentioned in the past having to drill a hole for the linkage. On my DIL's RX I replaced all 4 actuators and I didn't have to drill any holes because all 4 actuators had an unused arm with a hole in it that worked perfectly. You MIGHT not have to remove the lock assy., or at least remove the screws so you can twist it out where you can get to the arm to attach the linkage. Probably will but might luck out and not have to. The more I think about it I'm almost positive you'll have to remove the shield and rear guide and the screws that hold the door latch, but I don't think you'll have to disconnect or remove the lock and actuator assy., just twist it around where you can get to the unused arm so that you can attach you rod. I hope you find the hole already there so you don't have to drill it. Good Luck!

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I just replaced the little motor on the actuator on the front passenger side door. It took a long time but seems to work pretty good.

The problem I'm having now is that my keyless entry won't work. Both key fobs won't open car doors , but the car will open up manually and car will start.

How do I reprogram the car so the keys will work?

I've researched this site and others and it seems like the ignition/brake pedal programming is to program the keys, but the key part I think is fine--it's the car part that got thrown off I believe.

I'd appreciate any help.

Thanks.

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I just replaced the little motor on the actuator on the front passenger side door. It took a long time but seems to work pretty good.

The problem I'm having now is that my keyless entry won't work. Both key fobs won't open car doors , but the car will open up manually and car will start.

How do I reprogram the car so the keys will work?

I've researched this site and others and it seems like the ignition/brake pedal programming is to program the keys, but the key part I think is fine--it's the car part that got thrown off I believe.

I'd appreciate any help.

Thanks.

Are your batteries ok in the key fob? You shouldn't have to reprogram they key.

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I just replaced the little motor on the actuator on the front passenger side door. It took a long time but seems to work pretty good.

The problem I'm having now is that my keyless entry won't work. Both key fobs won't open car doors , but the car will open up manually and car will start.

How do I reprogram the car so the keys will work?

I've researched this site and others and it seems like the ignition/brake pedal programming is to program the keys, but the key part I think is fine--it's the car part that got thrown off I believe.

I'd appreciate any help.

Thanks.

Are your batteries ok in the key fob? You shouldn't have to reprogram they key.

My battery tester showed both batteries in fobs were good. I went to Radio Shack and they tested them and they were good.

UPDATE:FOUND OUT WHATS GOING ON.

I couldn't open my passenger side door with the key manually. Took everything apart on door and got door to open and then keyless entry worked!

My actuator motor install wasn't completely perfect and jammed up my manual opening of the door. I'll redo everything and I should be okay.

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I just replaced the little motor on the actuator on the front passenger side door. It took a long time but seems to work pretty good.

The problem I'm having now is that my keyless entry won't work. Both key fobs won't open car doors , but the car will open up manually and car will start.

How do I reprogram the car so the keys will work?

Hi, I just got small motors and I am getting ready to replace it in actuator in driver door, I am planning to follow instructions from this link: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289839

How much difference is RX300 from GS mention in above instructions? Any tips for RX300?

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