AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
sebastor

Best Engine Oil For 100k Miles Ls400

31 posts in this topic

Guys i use conventional Valvoline "Higher Millage" 5-30w engine oil.

My lex has 151 k.

My engine tends to burn 1 quater of oil per 2 months or so

so i tried that oil. Not much improvement.

1. What is the best oil when burning oil for that car ?

2. What do you guys use ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

try snythetic oils, they dont burn as fast. seems like alot of people here use mobil1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 400 has 130,000 miles and has had synthetic oil since new. I go a full 3,000 miles without any noticable oil consumption. Oil burning is usually from one of two causes (or both). If the oil is being burning during deceleration, is is probably attributed to the valves. If oil is consumed durng acceleration, it usually involves the piston rings. Neither is good.

The only product I have ever found that actually works to limit oil consumption is a product called RESTORE. You may have seen it advertised on TV. I use it in my 1966 Cutlassm which I know ha both bad valves, but mainly weak rings. The Cutlass is so bad that you can actually see the oil smoke behind the car. When I use the RESTORE, I don't see the smoke. Since I'm planning to replace the engine, and I really never drive the car anymore, I'm not concerned.

One thing, shake the can for a long, long time before adding. It is very hard to mix.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you don't want to pay for the synthetic, put 10W-30. The viscosity and weight will do the job too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey now, we can't have people driving a Lexus around with oil smoke coming out the pipes. That makes all of us look bad. Synthetic oil is not very likely to reduce your oil consumption but it might be better for the environment. Try the Restore, I swear it works!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

btw guys, the manual says that we have to use 5-30w. i always used 10-30w and now i switched to 10-30w sinthetic. is it bad that i used 10 instead of 5?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the 5w-30 is the prefered weight, but since most of out ls400s are old now its better to have a heavyer weight oil such as 10w-30. 10w-30 is variable oil that will protect your engine in year round conditions. the mechnic i was talking to said to put 10-30 in mine since its an older engine (i have about 127,000mi on my 1991 ls400)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hear you guys...FOUR problems.

1. Synthetic is thinner then 5w-30 so it makes sense to me that engine will burn that oil even faster. Also if I heard correctly because of age of my and your’s car (1991)car was driven on conventional so it’s not good to change now to synthetic. That is at least what I heard. Other theory is that conventional oil is better at sealing worn out seals in engine where synthetic does not.

2. RESTORE.....I had few yrs ago Mitsubishi conquest/starion and had a turbo. I put restore in it...turbo went out after few months....coincidence???? or NOTTTTTT....I don't know but I’m afraid of RESTORE product.....

How long have you guys driven your car on RESTORE ? Any coincidental problems? RESTORE will always say it was due to age of your car that ....let say valves failed....

3. RESTORE is very thick write ??!!!!.....well 5w-30 was put on an engine for a reason so thin oil can lubricate even smallest places in the engine....what do you think ....SLUDGE like RESTORE will do to let say valves holes ? ....seal it for good ? ...I am not mechanic and maybe stupid but my common sense tells me RESTORE = DISEASTER.

4. On 10w30 it seems to me that it takes longer and little harder for engine to start up. I takes me probably 1.5 times longer to start. Of course I am talking about second or two but I can tell the difference. Especially that harder start...

WHAT ARE YOU THOUGHT WHAT I SAID.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At normal operating temperatures, 5W-30 and 10W-30 are the same. At low temps, the 5W will be thinner and allow for faster starts, better start lubrication, and fuel savings during warm-up. 10W will be a bit thicker at cold starts. That's the difference.

Synthetics are rated on the same scale exactly. So a 5W-30 synth will be the same as a 5W-30 conventional at the two test temperatures of -18F and 210F. Outside those temperatures, the synthetic will perform better, thinning less with higher temps, and thickening less at lower temps.

Don't use ANY additives. At best they are a patch job, and at worst degrade the oil you put in the sump. No manufacturer recommends them, including Lexus. That is good enough for me. The API, ILSAC, and SAE do not rate additives for a reason. They do no good.

Synthetics are better at maintaining the pliability of seals. If the engine leaks oil now, it will continue to with synthetics, although it may not leak any more.

At any point in an engine's service life it will benefit from synthetic. In fact, as clearances increase, synthetics will protect the engine more effectively.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SRK...I agree with most of it..makes sense but

i have poured out 5-30 of synthetic and 5-30 conventional

and it seemed to me that synthetic was pouring faster and thinner then conventional...maybe it's just visual....but conventional seems more thinker even though they state same thinkness.

Also few people told me that is more thinner but thank you for your help....you are probably write...i am not car expert that is why i ask for help here...

srk what oil brand and grade do you recomment to prevent from burning of oil ?

Right now i use award won Valvoline Higher mileage 5w-30.

it still eats one quart for every 3000miles oil change which means

that before my next oil change i have to add at least one quart of oil.

It ticks me off cause i don't like to check for oil every 2 weeks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm only recommending 10W-30 if you're not willing to pay for the extra cost. I use Mobil 1 5W-30, because it helps prevent engine damages and lasts longer. Synthetic is formulated to quote cylinder walls and add more lubrication to moving parts according to my sponsors (Mobil Engineering team, Sonoma, CA). I'm guessing the Restore won't be needed. I would say, go with the mobil 1 5W-30 and see if the smoke stops, providing it's black smoke and not white.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use Mobil 5W-30 in both of my cars, the Lexus of course, and a '94 Camaro Z28. Neither burns any oil, and neither has any leaks.

In most cases I have found, and certainly with some customer cars, that oil burning is the result of piston rings which get sticky from infrequent oil changes. What can correct that condition, over time, is regular oil changes with a quality oil. The fresh oil will tend to clean varnish and deposits out of the ring grooves and allow the rings to conform better to the cylinder walls. My advice would be to shorten up the drain interval - maybe 2000 miles or so - for a few changes and then monitor the oil consumption. In most cases the engine will begin to burn less oil. Also be sure the crankcase breather (PCV valve) is in good condition, as when it plugs the internal crankcase pressure goes up and that can push oil past the rings.

In some cases I have flushed very dirty engines with good conventional oil, on very short changes, like 100 miles or so, and then gradually increased the interval as the engine cleaned itself internally.

At the end of it all, if the engine does continue to burn oil, but doesn't foul any one sparkplug (all cylinders are burning a bit) and the catalytic convertors continue to function efficiently, then simply add a bit of oil between changes and don't worry about it. If one cylinder seems to burn the oil, that would indicate a mechanical problem, if all do it evenly, then it is just normal wear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are places that offer what they call BILLSTEEN flush. They remove the oil filter and run and engine flush solution through the engine. This effectively removes all the sludge and deposits in the motor. I had it done on my Chevy and was quite impressed. If you have been running convention oil, this is a good idea.

Synthetic is always better than conventional as it retains it's viscosity under extreme conditions. For cold weather start-ups it really protects better. I would not use 10W-30 oil in my Lexus. 5W-30 is the best. If you live in some freezing cold place, you might considier 0W-30 in the winter, and I guess if you're in some really hot place, 10W-30. Somehow I still feel it is best to use the exact oil the car was designed to use.

Frequent oil changes with Synthetic oil is the key to a long running engine.

I use Valvoline 5W-30 Full synthetic. Pep Boys is the only place that sells it around here. I change the oil every 3,000 miles. I think Amsoil and Mobil 1 are also great oils as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

can i switch from 10 sinthecit to 5 sinthetic?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

$0.02: Depends on your location !! Bought the 93 Lexus w/100k and have used Castrol 20w50[carryover from all my BMW days] and now have 163k and it burns & drips absolutely ZERO--change every 3k; but would not use that grade if car was new.

If you are upnorth you can use this grade for one change--summer !!! then you need to drop back--how much depends on your latitude--at least to 5w(on cold side) if mn,etc. syn is great but I love to change every 3k[have my own Autolifter] and it is not economical; also I wouldn't dare put it in a car with over 100k unless it had it all it's life. Opinion!!!

Richard

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

can i switch from 10 sinthecit to 5 sinthetic?

Yes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
$0.02: Depends on your location !! Bought the 93 Lexus w/100k and have used Castrol 20w50[carryover from all my BMW days] and now have 163k and it burns & drips absolutely ZERO--change every 3k; but would not use that grade if car was new.

If you are upnorth you can use this grade for one change--summer !!! then you need to drop back--how much depends on your latitude--at least to 5w(on cold side) if mn,etc. syn is great but I love to change every 3k[have my own Autolifter] and it is not economical; also I wouldn't dare put it in a car with over 100k unless it had it all it's life. Opinion!!!

Richard

I really wouldn't put 20w-50 since that's really thick. I'm not sure, but I'm pretty sure it's doing something bad. I'll find out some more info, once I talk to my tech.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tks--advise. I certainly need to drop back to 10W40 for the winter.

Reminds me of something: In '82 my wife had a BMW 2002 and we used 20W50 in it. Well, one morning when she went to work it was -8 degrees [ an all time low for Greensboro, NC]; I went out about 15 min early to warm up the car for her.

The oil filter split and oil was all over the driveway--and it had a bypass pressure relief too !!!!!!!

That morning I sure needed Mobil 1 !!!!

Richard

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Synthetic oils are completely compatable with conventional oils. You can even mix them. Valvoline makes a blend of each called Durablend or Duralube. It's alot cheaper than full synthetic but still offesrs some of the advantages of full synthetic. Personally, I wouldn't ever consider using anything but full synthetic. Engines are more expensive than oil.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gentlemen:

It is important to note the real differences betweeen synthetic and "conventional" motor oils:

Conventional oils are a blend of refined base oils from different levels of the catalytic cracker in a refinery i.e. heavy and light oils are blended together to achieve a particular viscosity rating eg 30W. Thus, under extreme or extended operating conditions, the light fraction tends to evaporate out, and the heavy fraction tends to break down to "lighter" molecules, which changes the characteristics of the oil.

Synthetics are a "straight cut" from the cracker - one particular viscosity, if you will. As you can imagine, from any particular barrel of oil flowing through the refinery, there is only a very limited portion that has the exact desired characteristics, thus scarcity leads to the additional cost of "synthetics".

All reputable oil refiners supply good quality oil that conforms to the API standards.

As many have pointed out, the best protection for any engine is frequent oil changes, with the correct viscosity grade for the expected ambient temperatures.

As a final point, note that the oil companies have large marketing departments, and are all competing for your $$, whilst supplying a product that is largely conforming to a very well known standard.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Synthetic is really thin, and if you have a problem now burning Dino oil, it will be worse with synthetic. My experience with high mileage engines ('66 corvette,'86 corvette) is that synthetic will blow past the rings and fowl the spark plugs, oxygen sensor and catalytic convertor.

Try 20w 50 regular SL oil in summer and 10w30 in winter.

Regan.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i bought 6 pack of 5w MOBIL 1 in costco today for 23$

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i bought 6 pack of 5w MOBIL 1 in costco today for 23$

I got a Mobile 1 synthetic oil change at Wal Mart for $27. You can't beat the price of a Wally oil change. They even vacuum your car!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is off the topic but It doesn't matter what kind of of oil you used or some other stuffs that supposed to fix your problem. Your problem is the valve seals. Replace your valve seals.

JPI

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

JPI - What are the best spark plugs for my gen 1? NGK?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0