Jump to content

  •  

Photo

headlights leak--repair or replace?


  • Please log in to reply
12 replies to this topic

#1 mattmacc

mattmacc

    New Club Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • Location: Please Select

Posted 24 July 2002 - 07:34 AM

Both of the low-beam headlights on my 94 SC400 have recently developed leaks. the inside lense is completely covered with condensation.

Has anyone else seen this before? is it possible to repair this problem or should they just be replaced?

If i replace them, is there a newer style available?

Thanks, Matt

Have something to contribute?

Sign in or register to start a topic...

 

#2 SportSC4 hellas

SportSC4 hellas

    New Club Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 7 posts
  • Location: Please Select

Posted 25 July 2002 - 12:55 PM

Try using a blowdryer on them to evaporate the condensation. At least thats what others would say. I've only had 1 headlight do this to me in 3 years and I left it alone for a week and it went away on its own.

You can take them apart and reseal them... it's a pain but better then paying hundreds of dollars for a new set.

As for a newer style, they are all the same.

#3 AWJ

AWJ

    Official LOC SC Supremo

  • Management Team
  • 2,064 posts
  • Model: jzz31

Posted 01 August 2002 - 06:41 PM

You may also drill a hole in the backside of the headlight. Use a very small bit, I drilled 4 holes in the bottom of the housing at the front of the light assy. I did this when the condensation finally drove me batty on the driver side headlamp. Remove the headlight and have at it. It is easier and quicker than the other method. Be careful not to hit anything else when you go through. The holes can not be seen from any angle. I used a blowdryer and the moister left residue on the inside of the lense when it evaporated.

I will eventually take the headlights apart and clean them well, or buy new ones if I damage the others in the process. But by all means, avoid paying that high $$ if you can get around it.

#4 UCF3

UCF3

    Guru Member

  • Super Moderator
  • 2,203 posts
  • First Name:Nabil
  • Model: 2008 IS-F, 2013 GS350 AWD
  • Year: 2008
  • Location: Maryland (MD)

Posted 26 September 2002 - 01:24 PM

You guys own SC's. Call the Lexus 800 number and complain about the this major manufacturer's flaw. Maybe they might respond back by making new stronger assemblys. I tried calling them earlier, but the guy says there haven't been any complaints about this problem.

On another note, I wonder if replacing the lense cover with a glass lense would work? If anybody knows where the leak is coming from, that would help me greatly too.

thanks

#5 Snowman9000

Snowman9000

    New Club Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 4 posts
  • Location: Please Select

Posted 01 October 2002 - 06:00 PM

{Please see the FAQ} - AWJ

The above link will take you to some good discussions on the subject. In summary, if your lens insides are not dirty, you can just dry out the lights and reseal the leaky top seam. That seems to be where the water gets in.

I just did it to one of mine after the first rain I experienced in my new 92 SC300. I removed the light housing, placed it "holes down" over a floor air register in my house for a day to dry it out, then sealed the top seam above the parking light side. There is a low spot there in the seam and mine showed cracks in the sealant. You are sealing the seam where the black plastic rear housing meets the lens assembly. I used hardware store exterior 100% silicone "door & window" caulk, because I had some in the garage. It seems to have worked.

Although it only appeared to be condensation, there was actually an ounce or more of rainwater inside the housing. There is debate about whether or not to drill a 1/8" hole into the lens under the lower corners. Personally it looks easy and could be effective. Several people that have done it swear by it. Others that have not done it tell you not to. I guess I believe those that have done it versus those that have not. But I did not do it as it does not seem to be needed yet in my case.

If you let it go, eventually your lenses get dirty inside. If that is the case, you can read the threads and find the procedure for warming the assembly in an oven for a few minutes, which looses the factory sealant goop. Then you pry the black housing off, clean things up, then re-seal and reassemble. I have no experience with that.

Hope this answers your question.
:D

-Don M

#6 Snowman9000

Snowman9000

    New Club Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 4 posts
  • Location: Please Select

Posted 01 October 2002 - 06:03 PM

One more thing. Lay some masking tape onto the front bumper right under the light, before you remove the light. Removal is pretty easy, but you need to protect the bumper from scratching because you have to pry/persuade the assembly out over the bumper.

-Don M

#7 UCF3

UCF3

    Guru Member

  • Super Moderator
  • 2,203 posts
  • First Name:Nabil
  • Model: 2008 IS-F, 2013 GS350 AWD
  • Year: 2008
  • Location: Maryland (MD)

Posted 02 October 2002 - 08:04 AM

I think you're missing the one nut inside the fender well. If you pull back the inner plastic fender cover you can reach inside the fender and pull out a single 10mm nut (I'm pretty sure that's the right size) and the headlight will come right out... Just make sure you pull out the headlight slowly, it's easy to scratch the top of the front bumper area with the headlight. When you actually get the light out, it is possible to pull the whole front lens off the light assembly, but you will need a heat gun and lots of time. I suggest heating the edge of the housing on the low setting on a heatgun and gently pull the housing apart. I've done it before and trust me it's not any fun. Well good luck.

Scott
reLEXin247
Driver

Registered: Feb 2001
Location: Mary Esther, FL
Posts: 73
-------

I used standard clear silicone to reseal the lights and haven't had any problems with moisture... Also while i was inside the light I polished the inside of the lens with plexi polish. it made the lights look brand new. It took me about 3 hours per light to take out, take apart, polish, reseal, and reinstall.


__________________
Scott
1992 SC400
Chamelon Paint, 18" Momos,
Alpine CVA-1005, DVA5205, SEA8081

-------

I got the unit out... Inside the fender well it's actually 2 nuts and they are 10mm as you said.

FYI use an extension on your ratchet to break the nuts, then use your hand to screw off the nuts... it's simpler.

As a precaution I placed a towel under the lamp to prevent scratching referred too above... My heat gun does not have a low setting, therefore I'm waiting to buy one in the morn with a low setting, so I will not melt anything else!!!

Any other suggestion, I'm opened!!!


__________________
Pics of my Lexus SC4 & VW 'custom' Karmann Ghia... http://photos.yahoo.com/the_ikon1911
The Ikon
ClubLexus Paid Member

Registered: Feb 2001
Location:
Posts: 2053

******ABOVE POSTS are from: The Ikon of CL {AWJ} (October 2, 2002) *******

*****ALL REFERENCES HAVE BEEN ESTABLISHED to Protect against FRAUD.******
---------------------------------------------------------------

I've helped cleaning out many headlights for local supras down here in SoCal. The discoloration you see is inside the headlights usally...in some cases outside only. The procedure requires popping your lights into the oven for about 5 minutes at low temperature (be careful or you will damage the light), then removing the plastic casing. From there, you need to polish the plastic with a good plastic polish and scratch remover. Using the right product is important, you don't want to be leaving scratches and nicks on the plastic surface. Use a product such as Novus, Plexus, or Meguiar's plastic cleaner/conditioner. You will certainly want to use Novus, as it will leave the final surface very clean and shiny. A high speed polisher will save you a lot of time and effort. Although, it can be done by hand and some elbow grease.

Websites that carry the Novus and Plexus are listed below. You can also find them at other websites by doing a search for 'novus plastic cleaner' or 'plexus plastic cleaner.'
Novus: http://www.noscratch...ovus/form.shtml
Plexus: http://www.plexusplasticcleaner.com/

Silicone/RTV sealant: can be bought at local car parts stores for about $3 in a small tube.

Sand paper: use 2000Grit paper, and wetsand the outside of the headlights using a soapy water solution. Your headlights will be crystal clear and smooth. Also, follow up by buffing the sanded surface with the plastic polish/cleaner.

Oven Temperature: about 175-200F for about 5-10 mins, depending on the actual temperature of the oven. Leave the headlights in there until they are somewhat warm to the touch. Start at one end of the headlight, and use a dull object such as a butter knife of dull screwdriver to separate the headlights.

Quote from:
http://www.mkiv.com/...ghts/index.html (October 2, 2002)


Last edited by The Ikon on 04-12-01 at 00:00



__________________
Scott
1992 SC400


*****ALL REFERENCES HAVE BEEN PASTED TO PROTECT AGAINST FRAUD.*****
----------------------------------------------------------
I'm leaving these instructions from the other Websites, so that we have a reference on this Forum. This way, we don't have to keep going to another forum for instructions on how to disassemble this Lexus/Toyota FLAW.

#8 AWJ

AWJ

    Official LOC SC Supremo

  • Management Team
  • 2,064 posts
  • Model: jzz31

Posted 02 October 2002 - 05:19 PM

If anybody knows where the leak is coming from, that would help me greatly too.  


It is not so much a leak as it is an issue of inadequate ventillation. Over time the ventillation or breather holes for the headlamp assembly can and do become less effective. Adding a few small holes will rectify the situation. This is not only a problem with the Lexus line of vehicles.

Good information fellas.

#9 eXo

eXo

    Club Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPip
  • 68 posts
  • Model: '03 Lexus IS200 Sports Luxury (AS200 SXE10)

Posted 25 May 2003 - 11:36 PM

Mine started out like this, the lights were yellows so I took them apart to clean. I found once apart that it WAS clean which ment I destroyed a perfectly good seal.
Then came the condesation, the way I worked around was I took the light out and let it dry in the sun for a day then laid another coat of nogaps on the outside of the edges and buttered it evenly across. This has since fixed my problem as it's completely dry inside and airtight also (with the exception if the bulb sockets). :blink:

#10 sctrd

sctrd

    New Club Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Model: 92 SC400

Posted 17 June 2003 - 12:36 AM

Try the oven technique,baking the headlight after you remove the bulbs,vent tubes,rubber for the headlight bulb and the metal bracket on the end.Bake on a damp rag in a pan for 10min and split the unit from the bottom with a long handle gasket scraper its easier and faster than a butter knife,plus it will go deep into the adhesive sealer). Once you split the h/l unit ,remove 1 screw for the lens and take a part the h/l assm.Clean the reflector with a 3M glass cleaner(cause the others leave a residue)and clean the clear lens with meguiars plastic cleaner and polish.Reassemble and silicone channel of plastic housing with rtv clear silicone sealer.Press halfs together as tight as you can and bake in the oven for 5 more minutes,take out and press down on unit some more on a soft rug or carpet to seal h/l unit tighter together.Silicone around unit completely and put all the hardware back after its dries. :) :D Easy huh...after the 1st h/l it's super easy.


#11 AWJ

AWJ

    Official LOC SC Supremo

  • Management Team
  • 2,064 posts
  • Model: jzz31

Posted 17 June 2003 - 12:47 AM

B)

#12 JSC300

JSC300

    Club Member

  • Regular Member
  • PipPip
  • 38 posts
  • Model: 1995 SC300 5sp
  • Location: Please Select

Posted 25 June 2003 - 11:01 AM

I currently have this headlight fogging/fading problem with my passenger side lowbeam light on my sc300...its faded kind of a foggy brownish tint and it looks kinda gross...i was thinkin of just getting a low beam set off ebay for about $120...

#13 sctrd

sctrd

    New Club Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Model: 92 SC400

Posted 26 June 2003 - 03:19 AM

:) Try and do the repair 1st before buying another h/l asm. It's not hard and buying another used unit does'nt guarantee its gonna be completely sealed. :) People think it's a hard job to take these units apart,but it's not that hard just follow instructions and take ur time. :D :D...Oh ya try and check ur vent tubes and sockets,that they are still sealing. You can still buy the sockets from the dealer cheap,but the vent tube you cant.The vent tubes are 1/4" ID and you can stuff the tubes with a sponge or honey comb type material.The sockets dielectric grease the rubber before twisting them back on. GOOOOOOood Luck :P B) .

Have something to contribute?

Sign in or register to start a topic...


Not what you're looking for?

Register now, we have a huge community of enthusiasts to answer any questions you might have