sk1951

Im goe'n with air in the line. Don't think they put organic on the Lex. He may have put ceramic. But the low pedel and weird pressure...air I think. Let us know.

Wrote this for my 96 but it covers your o2 also. Good luck. I love this forum but it does get confusing. This is what "I" am going to do with my 96 es300 w/125k mi. 1. The manual says to "inspect" at 125k but says nothing else about oil transfusion or what to use. 2. The dip stick says to use Dex II and to check the rear end oil at the filler hole. However my understanding is that Dex III can be used in place of all before it. I am not sure when Dex II was superseded/discontinued but I thought it was before 96 as stated below. I am sure the stick is OEM and has all the jap lingo on it. I concluded that maybe the stick is older than 96 but then what did the factory really use? I assume it had to be Dex III. (Democratic disclaimer: No disrespect meant on the Jap statement.) 3. The forum seems avid against using Dexron. So I called the Dealer...Bell Road Lexus in Phoenix @ (602) 866-1474 and they told me...: Pre 1999- Dexron III ATF. 1999 to 2004- Toyota ATF. 2004+ World Standard ATF what ever that is...you new guys can fight it out. I asked about the synthetic and he said with older cars it would not really matter but suggested "no". I asked about using the Valvoline v v337 Dex/Merc Extended Life and he said it was a good product and a good replacement for the Dexron. 5. So...I want all the oil changed out so I am doing the flush method irregardless of the damage threat (I'm such a rebel) and pulling/cleaning the pan/changing the internal screen filter. And I am using the Extended Life Valvoline. If interested in the Valvoline I have posted more info on it...read on: http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer...ission-fluid/37 Overview from the site above: MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF contains a blend of superior base oils and a unique additive package to help extend the life of transmissions with over 75,000 miles. It is formulated to maximize transmission performance, reduce transmission wear, and improve and maintain smooth shifting longer than conventional fluids. MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF is compatible with new and rebuilt transmissions and will not void new car warranties. Recommended for use where DEXRON, DEXRON II, III and VI, Toyota T-IV and WS, MERCON®, MERCON® SP and LV, Allison TES 295 and 389, Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J and Matic-K, Honda Z-1 (except CVT), Mercedes NAG-1, Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II and SP-III and many others are required. WIKIPEDIA: All previous DEXRON specifications were replaced once DEXRON-VI was introduced. There are no valid approved products that carry the DEXRON approval unless they have a DEXRON-VI approval and associated license. DEXRON-IIE has been surpassed by DEXRON-III as of January 1, 1994. It is no longer available and its use is no longer recommended. DEXRON-IIE is not compatible in systems requiring DEXRON-III or DEXRON-VI. DEXRON-III is not compatible with the most recently designed transmissions, and the use of these earlier type fluids could result in transmission damage. All DEXRON-III licenses expired at the end of 2006, and will not be renewed. Beyond that date, General Motors will only support the use of DEXRON-VI fluids for use in Hydra-Matic transmissions. Fluids claiming DEXRON-III type performance continue to be sold under abbreviated names such as Dex/Merc, and D/M however since the DEXRON-III licensing system no longer exists, these fluids are not regulated in any way. DEXRON-VI DEXRON-VI was introduced in 2005. It was designed to replace all prior specifications, and is therefore backwards-compatible with applications calling for DEXRON of any type. The specification (GMN 10060) defines both a performance level and specific additives that provide improved shift feel, friction durability and oxidative stability compared to earlier specified fluids.

I have had every problem solved by this forum. It is laughable that this proclaimed "illusive" filter runs the gambit of may exist...maybe not. My manual does not cover it. The strings are for the most part worthless in none decrypt descriptions. It seems that some have found it but are illusive as to where. Some claim a secret box with special tabs. One guys says it is by the gas pedal under the carpet...but toward the front of the car...now really...what does that mean?!?!? So could someone kindly post just one post that is on point with a picture to prove this chupacabra Yettie filters existence! And tell us all of your excursion into the depth of this unknown abyss... Hey...all in fun here but really...I would like to change it if I can find it. :D Thanks

When and if you return, please attempt to learn to use the quote feature. It ain't rocket science. This string is a joke!!! I have found a wealth of information here. A nice man posted a how to for tail lights WITH PICTURES that helped me immensely. I posted a how to on hood struts...WITH PICTURES. But if you read through this string there is a lot of talk about how easy it is to find and replace and how the owners manual covers all...but no one says where or how to! The owners manual does not cover my 96 es300. This supposed filter is still elusive to me and this string was a waist of my time. Thanks for nothing guys!!!! *s* :P

Find a clean spot or put something under the car to locate the exact place it is driping from.

LOL...that was what I was going to say. Wonderif it worked?

There is a cabin air filter on many models.

Are u sure the car is worth it? With that many miles doing a top end will blow out the bottom end.

Are u sure the car is worth it?

muffler tape. any auto parts store has it.

Wish there was a way to attach a sound clip here. My first guess would be bad gas causing problems. Then tapit noise. Is it a lower end noise like a rod knock? Or a weird clicking taping knock? All the time noise or only when revved up?

Jake or Juliet: Sounds like you know the problem. Not enough juice to start the engine. If you have a slow cranking situation you might start with a new battery.

Out of curiosity, if you depress the brake pedal, let up on the pedal and then depress the pedal again do the brakes respond differently the second time? Showing your age dude! Just kidding.

Oh the buyers remorse! So exciting to get a new car...well to you anyway. I totally understand. Then the reality of care and new scratches sets in! You did not give us the mileage so it is harder to extrapolate. But if you have 60 days...I would use it to the fullest advantage and get everything you can fixed or repaired. Other wise you will be back here...like the rest of us...looking for more info on how to fix stuff! Air in the line was my thought also. This is not a real common occurrence. For air to get in the fluid level has to drop significantly...or it is sucking in from some place else which will normally leak also or an improper installation of a part has happened. Look for oil on the inside of the tires or spots where you park and notice where the spot was located to the car. Could be a blown caliper leaking or something else leaking. Also if brake pads are worn differently this can show a problem sign. If the brake fluid is black or dirty this lends to a car that was not cared for or has really high miles. Lexus brakes can go 100k or better with proper care. I would be all over that car checking all fluids for color/general condition and proper level. Check condition of belts and hoses...and that your hood stays up by itself! Actually...healthy struts will lift the hood on their own on a Lexus. So on to an off topic subject that I am sure you will be back searching. Transmissions are very costly so I believe in maintaining at least every 50k. I would do a flush at 125/150k. Some feel that color is not important but I like all my fluids a nice clean color. Synthetics are really preferred but I believe with proper care and normal use regular oils work fine. Some claim not to switch to a synthetics from petroleum especially on high mileage cars. As stated get as much previous records as possible. Lexus can do a check for what they have on file with the vin number. We had a big discussion on trany fluid and this is what I found. I cut out the parts not for your car. Hope it helps. 1. The manual says to "inspect" at 125k but says nothing else about oil transfusion or what to use. I think that is too many miles to wait especially if you drive hard miles. 3. The forum seems avid against using Dexron. So I called the Dealer...Bell Road Lexus in Phoenix @ (602) 866-1474 and they told me...: Pre 1999- Dexron III ATF. 1999 to 2004- Toyota ATF. 2004+ World Standard ATF what ever that is...you new guys can fight it out. I asked about the synthetic and he said with older cars it would not really matter but suggested "no". I asked about using the Valvoline vv337 Dex/Merc Extended Life and he said it was a good product and a good replacement for the Dexron or Toyota. 5. So...I want all the oil changed out so I am doing the flush method irregardless of the damage threat (I'm such a rebel) and pulling/cleaning the pan/changing the internal screen filter. And I am using the Extended Life Valvoline. If interested in the Valvoline I have posted more info on it...read on: http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer...ission-fluid/37 Overview from the site above: MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF contains a blend of superior base oils and a unique additive package to help extend the life of transmissions with over 75,000 miles. It is formulated to maximize transmission performance, reduce transmission wear, and improve and maintain smooth shifting longer than conventional fluids. MaxLife DEX/MERC ATF is compatible with new and rebuilt transmissions and will not void new car warranties. Recommended for use where DEXRON, DEXRON II, III and VI, Toyota T-IV and WS, MERCON®, MERCON® SP and LV, Allison TES 295 and 389, Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J and Matic-K, Honda Z-1 (except CVT), Mercedes NAG-1, Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II and SP-III and many others are required.