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LSPaul last won the day on August 12

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About LSPaul

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    Iowa (IA)

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  1. Winter tires/wheels

    For that matter, stock '93-94 LS rims should be relatively cheap since they're somewhat unloved, style-wise. '97-2000 LS rims (the 5-spoke flavor) will look good on the earlier LS. Good snows (I've used Blizzaks and General Altimax Arctic) and TCS on that gen of LS will work pretty well in even western MI snow conditions. If you do drive it in snow and ice, keep it clean when you can and it'll stay surprisingly rust-free.
  2. Transmission problem?

    From my experience with AW transmissions (most recently in a Saab) 12-13 ohms for solenoids will be in the ballpark. I don't have the manual download for '96, so I can't help further. Sorry. Paul
  3. Aftermarket is the only way to go here for the rear carrier bushings. The ADUS poly bushings have held up well in the LS400s I've had. Getting the old ones out goes quickly with a recip saw (just don't cut into the arm!), and putting the poly bushings is a pretty quick/easy job. Rear strut options are pretty limited for the LS. I installed new KYBs with fresh OE Lexus springs a couple years back. Even so, I feel the earlier cars are way under-damped in a stock-ish situation... not sure how the second gen cars do. In the case of your car, I'd look for Bilstein HDs, as they do make them for the second-gen cars. I'm not sure coil-overs would be the way to go, especially if you're wanting to maintain a stock-ish feel. Paul
  4. 1993 LS 400 Trailer hitch Possible ?

    That's something I'd love to find for my LS. The extra reinforcements attached to the body would instill much more confidence.
  5. New to Lexus, got a 1 owner 1990 LS400

    Ignition caps and rotors (and wires) are a bit of a pain to do after the TB job, but not impossible. The biggest hassle is getting to the bolts that hold the plastics on at the front side of the engine. For the wheel locks, look in the tool kit inside the trunk. It has its own spot for it with the tool kit. If you have the owners manual set, look through for wheel lock info. McGard in NY State still makes replacement wheel lock keys if you have the key code, and you can order one from them. Maybe consider a second one to keep with your tools at home and as a back up--they're inexpensive. Otherwise, the one time I had to get the wheel lock off without they key, I hammered a large socket (7/8"?) over the whole tapered lug nut, then was able to remove with a 1/2" breaker bar. Stock headlights on the early cars are pretty horrid. A lot of it has to do with the stock bulb 9004 fitment ('93-94 cars went to an 9003/H4). The rest of it has to do with the optics of the headlight, itself. I switched to a set of clear-style headlights made by Eagle Eyes (bought them a few years back online); H4 lamp (you'll need to convert or adapt your connector), good optics, giving off a decent impression of a proper E-code beam pattern. '93-'94 cars have slightly better stock headlights, and might be worth trying out if you can get them cheaply enough in the junkyard. For the rest of your electrical maladies, if there's an electrical section in your shop manuals, start there.
  6. 1993 LS 400 Trailer hitch Possible ?

    Like I said, for light duty hauling, a class I is just fine, even if you think it looks like it wouldn't hold. It will. As for the washer tank, I haven't seen anything on here, but the procedure from the shop manual (you can also download individual pages from Toyota/Lexus' TIS site) is pretty straight forward: 1) remove the LF fender liner (10mm socket or Phillips screwdriver) in addition to removing the LF tire 2) Disconnect the hoses and wiring to the pump 3) Remove the screws that hold the tank/pump assembly in (there's three) then remove the tank and pump. Installation is the reverse... Wiper_And_Washer.pdf
  7. New to Lexus, got a 1 owner 1990 LS400

    Congrats on the purchase! My sole project MBZ experience (W202, what did I expect?) was educational at best. By the time this is done, your temporary car may become one you want to keep around for a long time. Dig around the archives here for answers to many of your car's issues, as well as some of the other Lexus forums. There's close to a couple decades' worth of wisdom and knowledge here. Thankfully used parts in junkyards are still pretty inexpensive, and depending on where you live, still fairly plentiful. Many of the other answers will be found in the repair manuals (that's a massive score, by the way!). 1) Radio: If you have the standard radio (Pioneer, not Nakamichi), wiring harness adapters for aftermarket radios are cheap and install's pretty straightforward. Pioneer speakers are pretty indestructo, but the Nakamichi speakers sound great, even now. If the speaker foam has disintegrated on the Nak speakers, consider re-foaming--they're worth saving. Naks have the amp separate from the radio head, so basically are a line-out set. I'm not aware of a wiring adapter for that. 2) Washer pump might be the pump, itself. 2A) Start with the switch when it comes to the mirrors. 3) Brakes sound like they need re-bleeding. Follow the procedure in the shop manual to the letter (an assistant is helpful, but otherwise use a stick or long piece of wood to hold the brake pedal all the way down when closing the bleeder screws on the calipers). 3a) '93 and '94 cars have bigger brakes and different calipers, and should be a straightforward swap. 4) 16" wheels are plug and play. If you DO go with later brakes, the stock 15" wheels won't fit, so you'll need those 16" rims. 5) Driver's seat sounds more like an adjustment issue, as they generally don't wear out. 5A) If you do go junkyard shopping for seats, you are limited to '90-92 seats; '93 and '94 seat wiring is completely different and won't work, even if the seats bolt right in. 6) The timing belt/water pump job is a big project, although if the belt that's in there has less than 100k miles on it (and OE belts will go *much* longer than 100k), it'll be fine for now. It's a non-interference engine, anyway... 6A) A coolant change would be a good idea, though. 6B) As for timing belt vendors, Aisin's good, Continental (nee Goodyear) timing belts or Gates belts are just fine, too. 6C) There are also coolant drain petcocks on both sides of the engine block, if doing that change. I'd go with the proper pink coolant here, not green or other colors. 7) The steering column may be a matter of the gears needing attention (adding a shim, re-greasing). 8) Parts-wise, shop around. Many Lexus dealers also sell OEM bits on that auction site. 9) While a stock LS is a bit wallowy around curves, it will stick longer and better than you'd expect, as the suspension design is actually quite good. If you're going *there*, stiffer shocks, poly bushings on the sway bars and a larger rear sway bar (Addco makes a solid 7/8-1" rear sway bar for the LS) will tighten things up and flatten things out. After all that, you'll still slide around in the driver's seat! ;-) I'll repeat the mantra: Search the forums. ;-) Have fun! Paul
  8. 1993 LS 400 Trailer hitch Possible ?

    Second on the lexls writeup. The hitches that are out there for '90-94 cars are pretty light duty, as they bolt to the rear bumper beam only and not directly to the body. I believe hitches for '95-on are generally class II, so one can safely pull bigger stuff. If you're wanting to use a hitch-mount bike rack or a light duty trailer, the class I setup will work well (that's what's on my car). For stuff like a heavy cargo trailer, light car trailer or a car tow dolly, I'd probably pass (although I *have* pulled a light car trailer with small car, and car dolly with a mid-sizer over substantial distances with my '94). With adequate planning and reasonably careful driving, the stock brakes are just fine for a tow. The transmission was happier pulling with overdrive off when fully loaded. Wiring harness can be tapped inside the trunk, left-hand side, no problem.
  9. LS400 surging and dying

    Also, check the connectors under the dash, where the wiring harness from the engine compartment goes into the distribution block (fuse panel). Disconnect, wiggle around and re-install first. If you have Deoxit on hand, use that on the connector contacts. The lack of a signal at the diagnostic connector makes me think you're not getting proper connections at this junction block (I went through this when I bought my '94 and over several months, dug through everything). As for the ECU itself, I don't have a suggestion for a vendor to replace electrolytic capacitors inside the ECU. There's probably more suggestions out there as to who NOT to use for recapping (I borrowed a 'rebuilt' box from an acquaintance when I had to replace caps in my ECU, and it was worse than the original box!). If you have any electronic soldering skills, consider re-capping the ECU yourself; *much* cheaper than sending it out.
  10. 91 celsior Idle Dropping

    Other than the 'dub' badges, this is quite cool, and in nice shape! One very minor upgrade you can make to your hood strut prop setup, other than a new pair of struts: I use a pair of locking pliers/'vise-grips' to lock a hood strut in place (on the rod, against the strut body). More secure, less likely to bonk your head when you inevitably accidentally knock the stick out of the way.
  11. 91 celsior Idle Dropping

    Sounds like you're on the right track. Let us know how it turns out. I'd love to see pics of the car sometime--it sounds like a stunner!
  12. 91 celsior Idle Dropping

    So, you're getting a check engine light that goes on and off, right? The TRAC OFF light comes standard with a CEL. ;-) First up, you'll want to figure out what the check engine codes are. I'm not certain whether the diagnostic port connector layout is the same as the same vintage as the LS, but you'll want to jumper the correct pins on the diagnostic port (either under hood or under the dash). I looked at for the pin connectors on the occasions I've needed to. Or search the archives here. You'll need to count blinks with the correct pins jumpered to get the CEL code. The behaviors you're telling us about makes me think that your issue may be that a bad coolant temperature sensor. There's two of them on the intake manifold, adjacent to the top side ignition coil, under the RH (driver's side on your car) side spark plug wiring loom holder. They're relatively inexpensive to replace, just use care when removing the connector. Also not unheard of on early LSes is bad electrolytic capacitors inside the engine ECU, if changing coolant temp sensors ain't the answer. Good luck!
  13. Depending on where you and the car live, it's also worth checking the connections from the wiring harness that runs from the engine compartment to the junction block under the dashboard. I'm not sure if it's in the same location on RHD cars as on LHD (under the LH side of the dashboard, above where the brake pedals would be on an LHD car), but I had a power issue with my LS that ended up being slightly corroded connections at that junction. When I bought mine, it didn't run, no HVAC, etc. I unscrewed and removed the connector, then sprayed DeOxit on the contacts and reassembled, resolving that problem and all the other running issues I had been having. Paul
  14. oil for 220,000miles 97 LS400?

    I run synthetic 10W-30 in my '94 (230k miles on it at present); I normally use Mobil 1 Extended (and 15k mile change intervals), but 5W-40 Delvac 1 was on sale a while back, and I'm running that at this moment in mine. Paul