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eugene.s last won the day on August 14 2016

eugene.s had the most liked content!

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About eugene.s

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  1. Now this website is down ( - perhaps just until Monday. Register there, input your VIN and you'll see manuals, recalls, service history etc. for your particular car.
  2. Perhaps corroded wires. I'd go to a mechanic to test the wiring for continuity.
  3. Not familiar with LX470. But sounds similar to the famous GX470 crank shaft issue (or whatever it's called)... Maybe worth checking the GX forum for a reliable solution.
  4. Why are you so focused on the belts? If you are so energized, go to Or a relative page to the UK.
  5. Hi James, having read through your and others responses, I think you must do (2) from my original post. Then wait and see. And revert here if any further trouble. Maybe you may prefer to do (1) from the same but that doesn't appear critical to me now at all. P.S.: When in your further posts you may prefer to refer to "not [being] cold", please always advise your place or its temperature. I've lived in London before; your feeling for "cold" may be very different from what the "cold" means around the world.
  6. Hi James, I am not a car mechanic or electrician either but from all my experience as a car user: (1) If my belts squeaked, I wouldn't think of a problem with the alternator, I would think that the belts become loose and that I need to adjust the belt rotors to provide a proper belt tension. (2) I believe the normal battery life is 3 years (I've rarely seen a battery to go beyond that). If I were you, I would recharge or replace the battery and see if the battery indicator ever comes on again. (3) If you believe that your problem is deeper than that, I would suggest that you first check your car for any error codes ("computer diagnostics"). (4) You may also try a "consumers" check -- to check what exactly drains your battery when the car is off. This implies a car electrician to connect special devices to your car's wires while it's on/off. No need to remove anything other than the plastic covers under your hood. (5) If you may want to check your alternator individually, it will need to be removed from the car to be tested on a stand. If you ever go this route, I suggest you make sure that people doing the alternator removal/installation have done it before on your particular car model (if the procedure on an average car takes 1 or max 2 hours, on a Lexus car it may take up to 6 hours -- so, you'd want to ensure that the mechanics to be employed have done this on your particular car model before and won't be experimenting). I believe for each of (1) to (5) you don't necessarily have to go to a dealer, you can call on any tested car mechanics/electricians in your place. If you describe in this thread where exactly you are located, I hope that local forumers would be able to help you. Good luck, Eugene
  7. I would expect a problem with the mirror motor. You can find it here for you car (link) and then search for a replacement by the part number. Another common guess (a prob with wires) seems to be excluded -- as you say the mirror is making the noise, trying to unfold it (if I understood you correctly), then the wires must be good.
  8. Hi, look up for 'initialization' (or 'initialisation') procedures in your owner's manual
  9. OK, clear, no need for a video. I would try to move the seat back/to the front as far as possible and check the connectors between various wires underneath the seat. If you can't reach all of them, you may have the seat removed. I assume you've checked all the fuses first and that there are no error codes.
  10. Thanks, Umarali, for sharing your experience. I've never experienced isolating a bad cell in a battery. When we suspect a quick battery drainage, my local folks here firstly suggest checking whether the alternator works OK and produces enough current in engine-on mode. So, next time my battery is out, I may use your 'total' load test experience. Out of Lexus, I've owned GX470 before and now own LX570 (2010). I've found stock batteries as not very good, even by their designed characteristics. Perhaps one of the best batteries I've found is INDIGO 115D31L (made in Korea) - proved to be compatible to both cars. But I think it costs significantly more than $100 (at least in my place).
  11. You may want to do a 'computer diagnostics' for any error codes. Any error codes should perhaps address any non-physical problems (like a potential issue with the battery to which I referred earlier). If no error codes, it might be just loose connectors - to check on this, you'd need to dismantle and then assemble again the screen and perhaps the buttons parts (you've previously referred to not being able to change radio stations). If you want to do this by yourself, I suggest you find the procedure first (must be contained in the 'repair manual' for your car -- not to be confused with the 'owner's manual'). Or perhaps it'd be easier to ask some car electrician to do this for you (thus minimizing the risk of damaging parts by own operations). Edit: part numbers:
  12. Hi, if your first problems started with the new battery, you may want to check if it's compliant with your car (ref. the marking on the battery vs. the requirements in the user manual). I hope you haven't put a 24V battery -- it may ruin all your electronics. I am not sure about RX but in LX the clock takes its data directly from GPS -- you cannot adjust the clock, just change the time zone. If it's the same in RX, then this must be a sign of problems with the electronics. If you originally changed the battery because it was draining abnormally fast (and not e.g. as a routing 3/5 years change), you may prefer to go to a car electrican for a check of your car's power consumers...