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F14Scott

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  • Lexus Model
    IS 250

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  1. Does it sound like this?: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66225
  2. I ask, "What evidence do you have to call my post a lie?" I invite you to devise any test you like, including visiting and riding with me, anytime, to verify my claims. I live in Peoria, IL. If you are not willing to back up your skepticism with any sort of scientifically provable methodology, I suggest you keep your accusations of my dishonesty to yourself until such time as you can get some evidence.
  3. My tank gauge may show full, but it simply had not come off the peg after a topped-off fill up. That stands to reason, since, after a 77 mile drive, it had used fewer than two gallons. That trip meter was reset at the fill up. That tank average was for the tank that started full 77.4 miles prior to my taking that photo. I filled up here: 2801 Lindbergh Boulevard, Springfield, IL 62704-6535 (Huck's Convenient Food Store) I took the photo as I drove past here (on the highway): 401 River Rd, East Peoria, IL 61611 (Walmart Supercenter) I invite you to Google Maps the distance between the locations. In this car, I have constructed the following approximate "no wind" MPG matrix, using long highway drives of at least an hour's duration: 80 MPH - 30 MPG 75 MPH - 32 MPG 70 MPH - 34 MPG 65 MPH - 36 MPG 60 MPH - 38 MPG 55 MPH - 41 MPG
  4. I had the same problem; it was the cam bearings that needed to be replaced. See my thread on the same topic: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66225&st=0&p=418109&fromsearch=1entry418109
  5. This guy. http://stores.ebay.com/factory-xenon Dealer: $175 Discount Lexus OEM part store: $140 Ebay factory-xenon: <$28 Here's the page: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230462328370&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_2225wt_1165
  6. The likelihood of 0.3 extra quarts of oil in the crankcase and sump doing any damage to your car is extremely low. In 25 years and a couple dozen cars and motorcycles, I've rounded up to the nearest quart and never had a problem. Large quantities of extra oil (like two or more extra quarts) can push past the rings and/or froth, but a few extra ounces won't hurt you.
  7. I think they replaced the intake cams' bearings. Took about 8 hours in the shop.
  8. 2007 IS250 RWD Front 225/40R18 88Y, Rear 255/40R18 95Y. Bridgestone Blizzak They work well in snow and ice, and are not bad in the summer, either. Good grip, predictable, quiet.
  9. 2007 IS250 RWD Front 225/40R18 88Y, Rear 255/40R18 95Y Bridgestone Blizzak 61,000 miles Mobile 1 0W-30 75+ mile highway drive 60 MPH with a 5-10 knot tailwind 40.1 MPG
  10. Lexus did the TSIB for free, and the starter has not made that sound in two days. Success!
  11. I have had this starter rattle intermittently since I bought my 2007 IS250 two years ago with 27,000 miles on her. Now, with just under 60K, the rattle is getting more frequent. I've had the car at the dealer for other issues and have complained of the noise three separate times, but they claimed they were never able to duplicate it and had no idea what might be causing it. So, I started using my phone to record video of every startup until I caught it on film. Amazingly, when I emailed the video to my service advisor, he immediately found the TSIB related to the noise and scheduled my service. I could draw several possible conclusions from this correlation, some of them not flattering to the dealer. I will, instead, simply recommend that proof of the condition, easily e-mailed proof, seemed to initiate immediate dealer action.
  12. My 2007 IS250 RWD is having a similar issue. With the engine hot or cold, AC on or off, I get the following symptom: Normal Start Sequence Depress brake. Depress starter button. Engine cranks. Engine fires. Something gives a single audible "click" as the engine spools to idle. Sounds like CHU CHU CHU VrooOOOO (CLICK) oooom Occasional Faulty Start Sequence Depress brake. Depress starter button. Engine cranks. Engine fires. Something gives a repeated audible "click" (about as fast as I can make my tongue "motorboat" against the roof of my mouth) as the engine spools to idle. Sounds like CHU CHU CHU VrooOOOO (CLICK.CLICK.CLICK.CLICK.CLICK.CLICK) oooom Had it into the dealer yesterday, but we tried it, together about 20 times, both hot and cold, and the fault didn't happen once. Then, predictably, I went to run errands and it happened on the next start. I'm thinking the starter is having trouble disengaging, but have no way to tell.
  13. I know of very few airplanes that aren't flying by about 150 MPH. I suspect cars, with their general wing-like shape (flat on bottom, rounded on top), begin to want to enter ground effect and lift at that speed. Race cars emply big wings to generate downforce. Our street cars' little spoilers would not cut it.
  14. Gas with higher octane than an engine needs (for its manufacturer-determined compression ratio, timing, boost in turbo and supercharged engines, etc.) does not improve performance. In fact, because the higher octane fuel is less explosive, it will actually perform slightly worse. To maximize performance and to minimize cost, one should use the lowest grade of gas possible, without knocking or engaging the anti-knock functions of the engines. Since modern engines won't knock enough to hear (precisely because of the anti knock circuit kicking-in before audible knocking occurs), one can only follow the manufacturer's recommendation and assume that grade of gas is working properly. Putting 100+ octane aviation fuel in one's IS won't improve performance and will only drain the wallet faster. What does any of that have to do with what I said? Hmm. Nothing? I didn't mean to quote you. I had intended only to reply to the thread, not to your post. I must have clicked the wrong reply button.
  15. Gas with higher octane than an engine needs (for its manufacturer-determined compression ratio, timing, boost in turbo and supercharged engines, etc.) does not improve performance. In fact, because the higher octane fuel is less explosive, it will actually perform slightly worse. To maximize performance and to minimize cost, one should use the lowest grade of gas possible, without knocking or engaging the anti-knock functions of the engines. Since modern engines won't knock enough to hear (precisely because of the anti knock circuit kicking-in before audible knocking occurs), one can only follow the manufacturer's recommendation and assume that grade of gas is working properly. Putting 100+ octane aviation fuel in one's IS won't improve performance and will only drain the wallet faster. If using higher octane caused an engine to perform more poorly then racing fuel would not be of a very high octane. Higher octane benefits engines with higher compression, like racing engines. In an engine without the higher compression, high octane performs worse. Stated another way: Say you had two identical engines, A and B, both with 11:1 compression ratios, designed and tuned to put out 100 HP on 89 octane gas. Put 87 in A, and 89 in B. A's anti-knock circuit will kick in, so A will deliver 95 HP, while B will deliver its designed 100 HP. Now, put 91 in A, and 89 in B. A will burn slightly cooler because 91 octane gas is less volitle, so A will put out 99 HP, while B will still put out 100 HP. Now, add a turbocharger to both engines (boosting compression to 12:1), and put in 91 octane in A, and put 89 octane in B. A will be able to take advantage of the additional octane by burning hotter without detonating, so A will put out 105 HP, while B's anti-knock circuit will come on, limiting its HP to 100.
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