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qwikrex

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  • Lexus Model
    ES300

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  1. Okay, the vacuum source from the throttle body checked out. Turned out I had the hoses crossed between the two temperature controlled valves. There is one for the IAC and one for the EGR system, and the hoses were swapped. Fixed that up, and took the car to be smogged. It passed perfectly... Then... On the way home, the check engine light popped back on!! This time it's two codes 25 & 26. Looks like a problem with a modulator valve between the two cylinder banks. Back to work, at least it passed smog! haha!
  2. Okay.. Temp sensor checks out, TVV checks fine, and the EGR valve opens under vacuum and causes the engine to stumble suggesting the presence of exhaust gasses. Just came in to peek at the service manual and check if there were any updates there. Going to check for vacuum from the "source" for the EGR system, namely the throttle body. If that checks out, the only thing I can imagine is that the wiring between the EGR temp sensor and the ECM might be toast. Any ideas folks?
  3. I've got a 1992 ES300 which has the engine trouble code 71, causing the check engine light to be on. I have to smog this thing in less than two weeks, and I'm trying to troubleshoot. I've checked the EGR valve, and it moves freely when vacuum is applied. I cleaned it to be thorough but I'm certain it's not sticking. After cleaning it and reinstalling, I did a drive test, and the check engine light came back on. I'm going to run the vacuum tests from the factory service manual, but I wanted to see if there were any other common EGR problems I might get some guidance on. Does the temperature sensor in the EGR valve fail often? Any guidance would be appreciated. When/if I get it figured out, I'll be sure to post back here.
  4. Thanks much StevieJ, I've owned more than my fair share of honda civics and I've had the experience of a failed CV joint, and I'm fairly confident that's not it, though I'll check it out. The sound is definitely related to a shift of weight or suspension movement. It happens when we hit bumps etc as well as shifting between gears as noted above. I agree with not replacing expensive parts unnecessarily, though I usually take routine repairs as an opportunity to upgrade to something more interesting. I think a lot of the bushings and other suspension parts need to be replaced/upgraded, but I'm really concerned with actually solving the problem in the meantime. I'll check it out. Thanks again for the advice.
  5. Hey All, First time posting here but I've done some searching and just have a few questions. We've owned a 92 ES300 since late 2005 and it's served us quite well. However, it's recently started to produce a "clunk" sound from the front end under a number of circumstances. 1) Low speed turn with wheels close to lock (Popping/Clunking) 2) Pulling in/out of driveways and parking lots (Loud CLUNK sound when the suspension decompresses) 3) Shifting gears at or near redline with manual trans (Quiet clunk) At first, I thought the problem could be the engine mounts since it was occurring when we shift, or an axle since it happened when the wheels were turned fairly drastically. However, having searched here a fair amount, I'm beginning to think that it could just be the front struts. I'm going to inspect a bunch of stuff, is there anything else I should look at besides these three? 1) Axle CV joint/boot 2) Engine Mounts 3) Front Struts Also, any good testing/inspection procedures for checking out the struts? If they need replacement (probably do) then I'm thinking of using KYB's over Monroes and possibly getting some Eibach springs to go along with it. Are KYB's and Monroes my only choices for the 92? There any other springs I should consider? Thanks in advance!
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