IS_Willie

Thanks for filling in the details Nick! They gave me an RX to drive. They are really nice, but I certainly prefer the sporty feel of my IS. They also filled my gas tank. The girl who set my appointment told me that they would, so I made sure the tank was as low as possible when I took it in. ;)

Interesting that you posted this today. I just got back from the dealer with my '08 IS250, on which they did the accelerator pedal/carpet/ECU recall. I had the same concerns, because I had heard that depressing the brake and accelerator hard at the same time, after the ECU flash, would shut off the car... so I asked for clarification. The service mgr. said that if the ECU 'sees' the accelerator and brake being depressed hard simultaneously, it simply ignores the gas, and allows the brake to do its job. It doesn't turn the car off, or even cut the fuel off. I would imagine that there is a bit more to it than that, but I'd also wager that there are more than a couple of certified Lexus mechanics that peruse this board as well. Maybe one will chime in for us.

totally agree, try to stick with premium 93 octane gas. you car will love you and stick with chevron and shell. Thank you! I actually live right next to a Shell so that's usually what I use but we had some really cold weather here recently and that's what the dealer thinks might have caused water to get into my tank. I've tried running dry-gas through a full tank and I am almost on E now and my car almost cut off again today. So my hope is that if there was any water in my tank, it should be almost clear? Does this always happen when your fuel is very low? I've always heard that it is better to fill the tank when it is at half way, rather than to let it pull all the way down before refilling. Just a thought.

Not sure about the engine compartment cover, but as to the timing belt, I found this: Timing Belt (except GS 300 and IS) Replace every 90,000 miles or 108 months. A qualified technician should perform this operation. (The GS 300 and IS are equipped with a timing chain, which requires no periodic inspection.) Here: Owner's Manual Scheduled Service PDF On this thread: Owner's Manual downloads IMHO, all vehicles should be manufactured with timing chains, rather than belts, but there is that whole 'planned obsolescence' thing that makes the dealers so much money. Cheers!

LA to Salt Lake for me this summer... with an average of 28.5 mpg for the trip! (And that was with the AC on, at 80 mph nearly the whole way)

replacement pads work the same. if your pads are too worn, they will NOT replace them for free under the TSIB. The TSIB works like the warranty does--items in need of replacement due to normal wear and tear are not covered. Just an FYI... It really depends on the dealer. I just took my '08 in for another issue, (broken wheel and destroyed tire from road debris, but that's another story!), and while it was there, I asked if they could do the brake TSB. My car has a little over 13k on the clock, but they warranted the pads anyway. They did advise that I have the rotors replaced, but I opted to pass on that, at least at the dealer. Well, of course they did. 13,000 mi on your brake pads is not near the normal replacement time. Makes sense, but it still seemed like a lot of miles for them to do the TSB fix... and as some have found, a few dealers will not do it with that many miles. I drive pretty aggressively, and I'm sure that my pads were pretty worn.

That's really good to know! I'm curious did the shop say anything about the rotors being very close to minimal tolerance once they were turned?

Apparently, according to the dealer, the rotors come stock at a pretty close tolerance, and as a result, need to be replaced at each brake service. Smart from the manufacturer's standpoint. A small amount less steel per rotor, times x amount of rotors = more money in pocket, not to mention a few hundred dollars to replace the rotors each time. Ahhh... the wonders of planned obsolescence!!

replacement pads work the same. if your pads are too worn, they will NOT replace them for free under the TSIB. The TSIB works like the warranty does--items in need of replacement due to normal wear and tear are not covered. Just an FYI... It really depends on the dealer. I just took my '08 in for another issue, (broken wheel and destroyed tire from road debris, but that's another story!), and while it was there, I asked if they could do the brake TSB. My car has a little over 13k on the clock, but they warranted the pads anyway. They did advise that I have the rotors replaced, but I opted to pass on that, at least at the dealer.

Ahhh.... got ya. For sure.

Oh, no doubt, bartkat... I don't want to make it sound as though I start the car, and immediately flog the long skinny pedal. It is obviously a good idea to allow the engine to bring the oil pressure up, and get it circulating prior to putting a load on the drive train. That's exactly why I wait until the ECU completes its check before even putting it in gear. Older cars did indeed have limited, mechanical adjustments, but of course couldn't come close to the speed with which a computer can make corrections.

^+1 Modern engines don't need to be 'warmed up' before driving off. In days gone by, it was necessary due to the fact that there was no computer controlling all functions... idle, air/fuel mixture, etc. The only thing I wait for before putting my car in gear is the system 'check' to complete, and I've never experienced any fluctuations or engine failure like you describe.

You're absolutely correct... it has been covered. A search simply using the word 'leather' came up with these: Forum results More results Even more Could there really be another one? Ok... you're getting the idea by now. Happy hunting.

Just a thought, did you happen to access your glove box and accidentally push the valet trunk cutoff switch? thank you!! that was it, must have hit it by accident! No worries... glad to help. I've done the same thing myself. With my previous car, I accidentally hit the power window cutoff, and, since that particular car was prone to power window problems, when my windows wouldn't go up or down, I took it into the dealer. I was just slightly embarrassed when the tech reached in and turned the switch back on, and my windows worked perfectly! Glad you found out here, rather than doing what I did.

Just a thought, did you happen to access your glove box and accidentally push the valet trunk cutoff switch?

I have always used a product made by 'The Wax Shop' called 'Super Glaze'. It is a liquid wax that utilizes a petro-based agent to carry the carnauba wax. It works really well on things like sap, and adhesives. Good luck! (I HATE messy trees!!)

ALL transmissions require service. Heat is the enemy of lubricating oils. The rule of thumb in the past has always been about 15k miles. BMW does the same thing. I had an older 5 series, in which the tranny had never been serviced. At about 125k miles, the trans started to go. When I found a reputable transmission shop, (interestingly enough, a former BMW certified mechanic), to rebuild it, (to the tune of $3200), he told me that the car manufacturer knows that the trans will last, in most cases, at least 100k, and by that time, the car will be out of warranty, and as a result, they are no longer responsible to make the repairs, but they certainly reap the rewards of those who come in to have the trans rebuilt. My suggestion, if you are planning to keep the vehicle for an extended period of time, is that you find a good reputable independent mechanic, and have the tranny serviced on a regular schedule.

This is the truth. There are sh__ty salesmen at every make. I'd let the GM know about it. Maybe the attitude comes top down, but if not, and the GM doesn't ever know about it, it will not be fixed. I'd think in Orlando you could take the price you were previously given, and shop it to another dealer. OR--call Ana, and give her an earful on this asshat she handed you off to, and tell her that he lost Ana a sale. I say F*** the GM and Ana... go straight to Lexus corporate and lay your story out for them. I'd bet that they'll be willing to bend over backward to resolve this for you. They have a high end marque and a reputation that should not be represented like a second hand used car dealer, especially in the state of our current economy. Like bartkat, the dealer I visit is completely professional, works hard to meet all my needs, and makes me feel welcome each and every time I am there.

Well put, and ditto. 6'4", AND 51 yo here. I prefer a bit tighter fit in a car, just because I like to feel the car around me. The only detractor I find, keeping in mind that my previous three cars were an Infiniti G35, BMW 525, and Acura Legend, is that it is a bit on the tight side entering and exiting the car. Once inside, I'm good... but as LEXUS IS250 AWD said, there isn't even enough room for an aardvark behind me. But then I plan to buy a Porsche 997 once my lease is up, so, maybe I'm just a glutton for punishment!

No worries, oh, and welcome! There are a LOT of really smart people here with really good information... just as long as you are willing to do a bit of searching leg-work, (finger-work?), before asking questions.

Naw... you're good. Heck, when I was young and dumb, I had a Nissan Hardbody on which I put over 150k miles, and changed the oil exactly 3 times. Although it certainly is NOT advisable, today's engines are made very well, and can take a bunch of abuse. Many manufacturers advise oil changes at 7,500 miles. The benefit of having timely service records is mechanical longevity for the consumer, as well as the ease and profit of re-selling a Certified Used vehicle for the dealer.

It's just the computer letting you know that the service is due. It's a maintenance reminder, not a trouble light. As soon as you get your service, they will reset the light and you'll be fine... no matter if you do it now, or at 11,000 miles.

No... it's standard that the driver's side only unlocks when that handle is touched, and all four doors when the passenger handle is touched. To the best of my knowledge, there is no way to change that.

With the unlock button on the remote. Got an owners manual? If not: Owners Manual PDF collection. Check out "Entering and Exiting.pdf" Holding down the unlock button only opens them, it does not close them. I do not know of any way to close them all in one touch no. You're right! Sorry... my bad. I had always just assumed that holding it down again would close everything. (I should be reading my OWN manual more closely!)

With the unlock button on the remote. Got an owners manual? If not: Owners Manual PDF collection. Check out "Entering and Exiting.pdf"