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gbhrps last won the day on January 1

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About gbhrps

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  • Birthday 05/30/1949

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  1. MMatheny, One suspect would be the motors themselves, specifically corroded brushes. Last fall I resurrected the power top motor of a BMW Z4 that had quit working, because it was drowned due to a poor factory design. I was able to remove the motor end case (the end with the brushes) and remove them. They were corroded and stuck in place in their slides, such that their springs couldn't force them onto the armature of the motor to make an electrical contact. A quick clean up to free them up, and reassembly got the motor and the top working again. You may have the same issue. Pull the seat (disconnect the battery first and wait 20 minutes to allow the airbag capacitor to discharge or it may fire in your face if sparked) and then get at the wiring harness right at the motors. Peel back the plastic covers over the wires just where they enter the motor and identify their colours. Then at the end of the same harness, identify those same wires and the connector pins they are attached to. Since the motors just reverse the polarity to move them in either direction, apply 12 volts to the two pins and see if the motors work. Then reverse the wires (polarity) to see if they reverse. You should do this on any motors you find in the seat (forward and back, up and down, recline and back up, front tilt and reverse, and so on) If they all work, then you know there is a problem elsewhere. If none of the motors work, they all may need disassembly to clean their brushes, if you can get them apart and have that expertise. If they all work, take the seat control switch apart and clean all of its contacts with electrical contact spray cleaner. If that gets you nowhere, you'll need a mechanic, since you have power to the seat. Good Luck!
  2. Tire Pressure Monitor

    wineluver, TPMS systems can drive you crazy when they don't properly reset after the initialization. Sometimes you have to trick them into behaving. Raise each of the 5 tires' pressure to say 5 or 6 lbs over the recommended pressure, as stated on the driver's door sticker, and then drive the car at over 30 mph until the TPMS light goes out. Then bring each of the tires back down to the recommended pressure, and you should be good to go. This has worked for me in the past. You may find that you'll have to reinitialize the system after the 5 or 6 lbs pressure raise, to get the lite to extinguish, then again maybe not. Good Luck!
  3. ljsto, There are too many variables to consider suggesting a place to start. From what you describe ...... you need to take the car to a good mechanic to diagnose. I've been there myself ..... turned out to be 14 mouse chewed wires under the fuse box. Good Luck!
  4. jagsfan05, If I understand you correctly, you're presently unemployed and you need a vehicle? That changes my response to whether you should purchase this or any Lexus at this stage. All cars, regardless of make, will need repairs and replacement parts at some stage, and Lexus parts are MORE expensive than their Toyota counterparts. Maybe you should be looking at a Toyota Corolla or a Honda Civic or similar in the $3500 to $4000 range or lower, until you get on your feet. Gene
  5. jagsfan05, First off, if a Lexus has been well taken care of (same with Toyota's), they are pretty much bullet proof. We have always purchased Toyota Cressida's and then Lexus ES's for my wife (all used by two or three years of ownership) and we have never been let down by one of them, and we've had six of them. They are simply great cars! Other than regular maintenance and replaceables as tires and wipers, we've only ever had to replace one torque converter at 280 00 kms on one of them, and that's for 6 different vehicles over the years. That's not to say that once and awhile any car can have a major failure, but they are rare with Lexus, Toyota, Mazda, Honda, Nissan, Kia and Hundai products. I agree with your independent mechanic, check out the car, over and above what the dealership offers. I wouldn't buy one without it. Check the car out, and if it screams "pride of ownership" by the previous owner and is pristine, and every option works as intended, .... providing the price is correct for your market, ... there is no reason not to expect that you'll enjoy the car and its reliability way past 400 000 miles or more. Good Luck with your car hunting! Gene
  6. John, Came across this YouTube video: It, and several others on the same page of YouTube, are all on the Blend Door issue with various Lexus models. There may be something there for you to check out. Plug this into your browser to find it and the other related videos.
  7. John, There should be a reset for the HVAC system, and after an online search I couldn't find it posted anywhere, but one exists. You might find a service tech at Lexus to share it with you, but then again, Lexus holds its cards close to the chest. If a reset doesn't do the job, then the center console needs to come out of the dash to give you access to theHVAC body and the various actuator doors, and checks made. This link: is for the 2007 Lexus ES service manual. Scroll down (use the elevator on the right side) and check out about a third of the way down for the Air Conditioning System. There are many separate pdf sections you can check, particularly the Diagnostic Codes, and Mode Check procedures. You may find what you need there. At least its a place to start. Good Luck! Even if you don't find a solution to your issue, save the Service Manual location, as everything about the 2007 is there, diagrams and procedures for all, and much will apply to your year ES as well.
  8. Paint peeling from door tops

    Netpro, I agree. Its poor factory prep of the primer coat before the base coat, pearl coat and clear coats were added. With three stage paints, getting the flow rate/spread of the pearl is the killer when it comes to matching what ten years has done to the colour, etc. I doubt that Lexus will help out, but you've nothing to lose by asking. They may just be only too happy to keep a customer. I've had a positive response from Toyota years ago on a faulty sunroof computer years out of warranty. So you never know! Good Luck!
  9. Anti-Lock Brakes Issue

    fljjmarz, Does the ABS dash light come on when you experience these issues? I'm betting that it doesn't, and that what you think is the ABS system operating, isn't that at all. You have a 10 year old car with .. how many miles ... (always good to let us know what your mileage is), and I'm betting the brake fluid has never been changed/flushed out of the system, and that the calipers have never had the pistons removed, the rust/gunk in the caliper bores and on the pistons removed, the slide pins lubed, and that your rotors may be glazed in spots. All of these may give you the same symptoms you're seeing, particularly at slow speeds. New rotors, brake pads, and caliper lubrication (silicone grease on the pad ends and caliper mount shims), or returning your rotors, removing the glaze from your brake pads (if necessary), cleaning the piston bores and pistons, and lubing the brake pad ends and the slide pins, (all DIY kind of jobs) may solve the issue. I'd sure look at this area before digging into the ABS system, which may not be at fault. It still may be the ABS system, a faulty wheel sensor, but start with the easy, less expensive stuff first. Good Luck!
  10. Outside temperature sensor

    Thelma, There won't be a fuse specifically for the outside temperature sensor, but rather one or several that protect the entire heating and cooling system wiring. So if the rest of your HVAC system is working, don't worry about a fuse. Chances are that either the wire to the temp sensor has broken, or its electrical connector has corroded and just needs cleaning, or perhaps the sensor itself has gone bad and needs replacing. Don't go buying one until you know for sure that you need one. And even then, see if you can't get a used one from eBay or a wrecking yard, because the new price from Lexus may break the bank. That said, the sensor will be behind the front grill where it can be in the airflow through the nose of the car as you drive. You may have to remove the bottom plastic cover under the bumper to get at it. Which side, I'm not sure, but a Google search for "2002 es300 outside temp sensor location" should get it for you. Good Luck!
  11. Ac don't work

    Felix814, We need to know what car, year and mileage. If you go to the top right of the page where you signed in, you'll see your sign in signature and a down arrow. Hit the arrow and fill in your profile. It'll input your car info (other than mileage) with every post you make. Saves time, gives us a starting point to your problem. OK, several years ago my wife's 2003 did the same thing. The research I did at that time (for flashing AC light/no AC) came up with a bad AC Compressor relay in the under hood fuse panel. It has been so problematic over the years that Toyota now uses an upgraded relay that doesn't fail to the same extent as the older version. Cost $28 or so, if I recall correctly. Here's a post from another forum on the issue: "The bad relay is part number 90987-02022 and the label inside the fuse box lid is "MG CLT" which stands for "magnetic clutch". It has to be replaced with part number 90987-02028 (according to LEXUS Technical bulletin EL009-05) which will cost between $70 and $100 depending on which dealer you go to (Toyota carries this too). I bought one, plugged it in and voila, the blinking stopped and the air conditioning started working again." Find yours, take it to Pep Boys or similar, and ask for the Toyota upgraded relay, install, good to go AC.(If this is the problem, and I'll bet it is.)
  12. Missing on and off battery disconnection

    Lawrence, Always give the year, model and mileage of your car when posting for answers. It gives us a place to start with the answers that would be very different for different years, models, and certainly mileage. On top of that ,we need more info. When does it start missing, after warmup, when cold, at city speeds, only at highway speeds, does it stall out? Can you get it restarted if it does? And when you disconnect the battery and the ECU does a reset, how long before it starts acting up again? Do any of the dash lights flash? Do you have a check engine light on? Flashing? Have you had the codes read? Please describe the symptoms as accurately as you can. Every piece of information can help us pinpoint the possible source of the problem. As well, click on your sign in name (top of page) and then click on your Profile, and fill in the information. Once done, it will post your model, year and leave you just the mileage to fill in on every post. Cheers! Gene
  13. Don't know what to do

    Felix814, First off, there aren't many wrenchers on this site who have a lot of knowledge of the specifics of these cars. Many here do their own brake jobs, etc., but not a great deal beyond that. And Lexus holds their factory service manuals close so they are expensive as he** to buy. So I wouldn't bet that anyone here can give you an absolute and correct answer. That said, 4 trannies in 3 years says you are either beating that car to death with racing and drifting, or you are getting a lot of bad advice from people who really don't know, but are willing to take your money and hopefully correct the issue, which they haven't done so far. You need to find a GOOD independent mechanic (Why pay Lexus prices when the guy who fixes Camry's can do the same job without the high overhead?) who you can trust, and have him or her trace the issue down. It may well be the ECU or perhaps the tranny module, or even a bad wiring harness that some mouse decided to lunch on. Spend the money to get a proper diagnosis from an expert. Good Luck!
  14. Junk yard Navigation

    hchampion, Yes and no. Yes because there is a "service entry" procedure to permit Lexus service techs into the system to make changes. And no because if the tech can't get the system to correct, you'll still have a bill to pay, whether they get it right or not. And if "not" is what happens, they'll blame it on the used nav system. That said, I have seen a thread here (maybe within the last three years or so) that gave the procedure for unlocking the nav system to its service procedures. At the time the thread procedure allowed you to input destination info while the car was in gear and moving. I recall that's what the poster was trying to achieve, and one assumes that the same procedure would allow for calibration of the unit, but I don't know for sure. I'd do a search for that thread and try it. Either that, or search through the Toyota Avalon FSM for the navigation materials.for 2006. Here's the free link for pdf download. It explains the procedure for what you are seeking. Scroll down and download the nav pdf. Toyota Avalon SIL/RM/ Click on the one called "RM00A0U". I've got to believe that it would be exactly the same for a Lexus. Good Luck!
  15. 2002 ES 300 with 105k miles

    marathiboy, All things point to a thermostat that has problems, that or a bad/corroded connection at the temperature sensor. I'd try cleaning that connection first, and if that doesn't solve the issue, replace the thermostat and gasket with a Lexus original (not aftermarket). Most people have had less than satisfactory aftermarket thermostat experience. But it would be unwise to wait too long for the replacement, if its necessary. Good Luck!