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gbhrps last won the day on January 1

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About gbhrps

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  • Birthday 05/30/1949

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  1. hchampion, Yes and no. Yes because there is a "service entry" procedure to permit Lexus service techs into the system to make changes. And no because if the tech can't get the system to correct, you'll still have a bill to pay, whether they get it right or not. And if "not" is what happens, they'll blame it on the used nav system. That said, I have seen a thread here (maybe within the last three years or so) that gave the procedure for unlocking the nav system to its service procedures. At the time the thread procedure allowed you to input destination info while the car was in gear and moving. I recall that's what the poster was trying to achieve, and one assumes that the same procedure would allow for calibration of the unit, but I don't know for sure. I'd do a search for that thread and try it. Either that, or search through the Toyota Avalon FSM for the navigation materials.for 2006. Here's the free link for pdf download. It explains the procedure for what you are seeking. Scroll down and download the nav pdf. Toyota Avalon SIL/RM/ Click on the one called "RM00A0U". I've got to believe that it would be exactly the same for a Lexus. Good Luck!
  2. marathiboy, All things point to a thermostat that has problems, that or a bad/corroded connection at the temperature sensor. I'd try cleaning that connection first, and if that doesn't solve the issue, replace the thermostat and gasket with a Lexus original (not aftermarket). Most people have had less than satisfactory aftermarket thermostat experience. But it would be unwise to wait too long for the replacement, if its necessary. Good Luck!
  3. dommm, The usual rule of thumb for twist on oil filters is to put fresh oil on the rubber seal of the filter, and then turn the filter on until the seal contacts the engine block (you'll feel the filter turning stall a bit) , and then give the filter an additional 3/4's of a full turn, but no more.
  4. wineluver, You're over-worrying the issue. The bible of car repairs is to fix what you know needs fixing and do regular maintnance. Throwing parts at a problem without knowing what the real problem is just wastes money ... a lot of it. That said, you know you have rear cupped tires that cause the seat vibration. Fix the struts and then put on the new tires, and see how the car rides. Most people would do a 4 wheel alignment after strut replacement as well. That may be the only things the car needs. Your axles may be perfectly fine. Usually when one of them go bad, they click, clunk, rattle or cause vibrations. In your case, a front drive car, a bad half axle should cause vibration in the front of the car, not the rear.
  5. downunda, The car should be driveable as is. I suspect that there has been little damage to the intake system. Get the car to a mechanic to ckeck out what needs replacing, hoses and whatever plastic pieces you're concerned about. Should you need new plastic sections for the intake, go to a wrecking yard for the parts, as new from Lexus will break the bank. Good Luck!
  6. wsrivers, There are several YouTube videos for ES thermostat replacement, but they don't identify the year of the ES. Thankfully, there are several Camry v6 thermostat replacement videos as well, that are for your generation (Lexus ES300 uses the same engine as the Camry V6 of the same years, they are sister cars). Check them out and you'll have your answers. Hint: install the thermostat with the small wiggle valve (bypass opening with a loose weighted rivet contraption that allows a small amount of coolant through even when coolant is cold) in the up/12 o'clock position.
  7. Dommm, Its most likely the same as many cars today. To access the back of the headlight assembly, to get at the individual bulb sockets, you will have to remove the front wheel, and loosen some of the front bottom plastic cover on that corner of the car, by pulling out its plastic plugs. Then pull all of the plastic plugs that secure the plastic wheel liner in the front and half way back to the rear of the wheel arch. The entire wheel liner doesn't have to be removed, so don't pull out the plugs on the rear, but mainly from the shock tower forwards. That should allow you to pull the liner from the front of the car down and towards the rear, giving you enough room to get a work light and your arm up into the back of the headlight assembly to change out the bulb. It should be doable, but it is a pain. The only other way to do it, is to remove the whole headlight assembly, but to do so means removing the front bumper cover, and the associated problems of reattaching it without scratching the paint. This is a link to a YouTube video of a Toyota Camry (Lexus ES300 sister model) for the same year, on how to remove the headlight assembly for bulb replacement. Watch the entire video as it shows some tricks. Just be aware that if your ES has the moveable headlights that follow the terrain as you drive, the back of the headlight assembly will be more involved but much the same. I just did the same job on my 2012 Subaru OutBack last month. Not fun, but definitely a DIYer job. Good Luck!
  8. waeltzy, Unfortunately there are few wrenchers on this forum who would be privy to that information. It appears as few Lexus owners are into fixing their vehicles themselves, unlike the Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Ford, etc. forums. Part of that problem is due to Lexus not wanting the info and its factory service manuals in the public domain. Oh, you can buy one if you wish, but it'll cost you in excess of $600. Myself, I've found free copies of the factory service manuals online for my 2012 Subaru OutBack LTD and my 2016 Nissan 370Z Roadster. I've found parts of the FSM for my 2005 GMC dually, but not everything, and my wife's 2011 ES350 ... well I steal things from the Camry v6 manuals for the same year. Most of it is the same, but not all. But there are some alternatives. The Toyota Camry V6 of that same year shares the same platform, and should have wheel geometry that is the same or fairly close to your ES350. As well, there are sites like AllData that will give you the info you seek for a fee, allowing you to download the section of the FSM you require for a 3 day period of time for $15 or so. I've never used them, but I understand its out there. On top of that, try calling other alignment shops in your area, because I can't believe that many of them don't have the specifications, and maybe your guy just doesn't see enough Lexus vehicles to make it worth his while to buy the info from his software suppliers. Good Luck!
  9. shortimer, At this stage you need a wiring diagram, something that Lexus does not pass around cheaply. You might try finding a Camry V6 wiring diagram (possibly easier to locate) or go online to a site that allows downloads of sections of Lexus f-Factory Service Manuals for a fee. Here's a link to a site that may have what you need for a $7.50 one month charge:
  10. mikes81bigblock, It could be a lot of different things causing your issue. Get the car to a good independent mechanic and have him pull the DTC codes and see what he says as a solution. Not surprising at that mileage.
  11. WWN, Its impossible to narrow down the cause, as its likely to be one or several of the items you've mentioned. Get the car to a good independent mechanic and have him take it for a short drive, and then put it up on a hoist and check it over. He should be able to find your issue in short order.
  12. Gentlemen, Every car with AC will have a rubber drain hose that comes off the bottom of the heater box (Subaru's have it on the bottom of the heater fan casing) and goes through the firewall to drain the condensation onto the ground. On an ES300 you can't see it from the engine compartment, but it is visible from below the car when its on a hoist or jack stands. Usually, poking a wire up the hose from below the car is all that is needed to start it draining again. Hint: you can expect that there will be a small puddle of water under the car whenever you run the AC, so if you don't see water dripping down when the AC is running (or just after turning the car off), its highly possible your drain is plugged, and water will soon find its way onto the floor pans. If you have a sunroof, there will be 4 drains, one at each front end corner of the sunroof that have drain tubes that run down the inside of the A pillar to the ground. As well, there are two (one each side) that run down the C pillar, usually to exit out the body of the car behind the rear wheel, between the body and the rear bumper cover. Picture where the rear of the sunroof would be under the headliner when the sunroof is fully open. That is where the rear drains are located at each rear corner. Sunroofs keep most of the water out, but some gets by the seals and runs in the slide channels of the sunroof to empty into these drain tubes. If the tubes get plugged with dirt/leaves the water backs up into the headliner and then to the floor. Sometimes a wire can be poked down these drain tubes to free them up, or if an air hose can be positioned correctly, they can be blown out Then, sometimes old age cracks these plastic drain tubes and they leak water from the same locations. Generally if water is on the rear floor ... the rear sunroof drain is plugged/split/come off the channel, but some floor pans by their shape will allow water from the front floor area drain to the rear floor, or if the car is parked on an uphill incline.
  13. Nimbler, I have owned Toyota's, Lexus', Nissan's and Subaru's and have been wrenching on them for years. The forums I've followed on each make say the same thing ... use what make of plug the car came with. Yes, I've tried the Bosch plugs, but the cars have always run better with the NGK's and Denso's that the manufacturer's used as OEM.
  14. Roper, Check out the above link. It has what you need in a kit form. Good Luck!
  15. IrieMon, EBay search under `2010 Lexus leather seats` (signify USED on side menu) brings up several options that may be what you`re after.