GuyTelefunken

Most likely the blower control module. It's behind the glove box mounted on the air duct. The glove box must be completely removed to access it. It's about $230.00 from your local dealer. p/n 87165-22050

Hello there. Have a search around the site. This is a very popular topic. It's been covered many times. You need a new lock/actuator assembly inside the door.

Just a tid-bit. The 2004 GS430 utilizes the 3UZ-FE 4.3l engine with an aluminum block. That being said, I find the Youtube video laughable. If it were this simple to get fantastic gas mileage, I would think we'd all be floating high on hydrogen. Recent article about "Gas Saving Devices."

All keys that will start the car have transponders in them. There are several combinations available. Generic transponder only, cut as a master, programmed as a master. With this key, additional keys can be programmed. Generic transponder only, cut as a valet, programmed as a valet (sub-key). With this key, additional keys cannot be programmed. OEM Lexus transponder only, cut as a master, programmed as a master. With this key, additional keys can be programmed. (black head) OEM Lexus transponder only, cut as a valet, programmed as a valet (sub-key). With this key, additional keys cannot be programmed. (grey head) OEM Lexus transponder and remote, cut as a master, programmed as a master. With this key, additional keys can be programmed. Note it is also possible to program an OEM Lexus transponder only or generic transponder only, cut as a valet, as a master. With it, additional keys can be programmed.

As I'm one of the "Old Ringers" you describe, and a moderator as well, I like to offer help as much as I can. Unfortunately, the original post gives no actual details as to the location of the sound. It seems as little effort was spent describing the issue. Look at it from a mechanics point of view. If you took your car into the shop and said to the guy "hey, my car makes a noise, can you fix it?" He would need a heck of a lot more information before he even began to form an opinion. That being said, if someone wants to offer a more detailed account of their problem, some fine soul on this board might be more willing to lend assistance. Stick your head under the dash. Listen with the glove box both open and closed. Apply the brake pedal several times with the key on. (The brake modulator pumps often cycle for a short period on these cars after several brake applications or just after starting.) Open the hood and have a helper turn on the key. If you suspect it is the CD player, remove the cartridge and retest. There are many ways to help pinpoint a sound.

The parking brakes are adjustable through a hole in the rear rotors. The wheels and rotors should first be removed to check the interior surface of the rotor where the parking brake shoes ride. The shoes should also be checked for wear. After making sure all the parts are in good shape, the rotors are put back on and the brakes are adjusted through the access hole.

There is a resonator in the middle (on US cars). It may be a cat on vehicles in certain markets, such as Canada. Since you have not identified the country/region in your profile, I cannot be more specific. I agree with the note above, the technician may not be fully accurate in his diagnosis. It is rare to see multiple cat failures simultaneously without some outstanding cause. If it were me, I'd get a second opinion.

Any aftermarket is fine. They are bolt in cats. You will need new gaskets and bolts/nuts. See attachment for diagram. There are two cats; bank 1 (cylinder 1-4) and bank 2 (cylinder 5-8). Cats.pdf

Incandescent lamps often fail in this way because of breaks in filament. When you tap it, the broken ends touch and the current flowing through the lamp temporarily welds them together. Sounds like a simple burned out lamp.

Most likely you need new door lock/actuator assemblies for each door. If you look around the forums, you will see many posts relating to this topic. They fail in various ways and it is quite common.

The most likely part to wear is the spiral cable. This part is behind the steering wheel and it winds and unwinds every time you turn the wheel. If you have any of the following symptoms as well, this part is highly suspect: non-functioning horn, airbag lamp. There is a chart attached to guide you. Cruise_Control.pdf

It's actually the air mix actuator for the passengers side. It's a motor that moves a damper to change the air temperature. It's tight but doable for a seasoned mechanic.

If you look along the top of the wiring diagram you will see (6) fuses related to the power seat. Some of them are located in the driver's side and/or passenger's side footwell kick-panel fusebox. Also there is a 7th. fuse, (P FR DOOR, 20A). Check them all. Otherwise, you'll have to do some testing to see if there is power at the various related modules. Power_Seat_Diagram.pdf

No offense, but if you're asking this question, you shouldn't be working on your HVAC. Take it to someone who has experience with automotive HVAC.

The blower motor is under the passenger's side dash. It's a piece of cake. When the bearings fail, it usually sounds more like a metallic, rotating squeaky sound. The sound you describe may be one or more of the servo motors that control the air doors. I've replaced several over the years and I'm going to do another one soon. There are (4) motors. One for the mode, one for recirculate, and one for the temperature of each side. I find the temperature servos tend to fail the most as they move the most to maintain the set temperature. If you want to figure out if a motor is your problem, do the following. Turn on the climate control and turn off the auto-mode. Select the lowest fan speed. Turn on dual temperature mode and adjust the temperature on one side at a time; one degree at a time. Listen to the motor move. The driver's side motor is to the left and below the radio, inside the dash. The passenger's side is to the right and below the radio, inside the dash. As you adjust the temperature one degree at a time listen to the motor move. They move in steps. If you have a bad motor, you will find a position where the motor does not just move and stop but starts to jiggle back and forth. You can hear the motor "searching" for it's set position. When a particular position starts to wear inside the motor, it will not be able to stop accurately at that spot. They usually exhibit this phenomenon at a temperature you use most or slightly below or above it. If your motors seem to be quiet, you might want to remove the panel under the passenger's side dash and remove the blower motor. It is quite possible that some debris got into the fan and is causing the noise. It's a good time to check the filter behind the glovebox. The filter is directly above the blower motor. Remove the access panel at the rear edge inside the glovebox to access it. It is behind a cover, straight behind the access cover.