CrunchySkippy

I'm assuming that when you say "activate" you are performing both the "on" and the "set" tasks, right? If so I would check for a burnt fuse. Good luck.

I've had similar incidents happen over the years. If I recall correctly, I think it happens when I pushed the "on/off" button prior to putting the car in park. I would then have to press the "on/off" button 2 or 3 more times to cycle through to "off". I seem to recall something similar when I open my driver side door prior to pushing the "on/off" button. Maybe you're doing the same thing? At the very least, the next time it happens - try cycling through the On/ACC/Off states. Good luck.

While I agree with the above tire suggestion (also try rotating tires front to back to see if vibration persists), It is probably worth lifting the front end and checking your steering/suspension components for wear or looseness. Obviously the front end lifts under acceleration and squats under deceleration which may explain the different times you experience the vibration (or at least the worst of it). Vibrations can be difficult to identify in person, let alone over the internet. Good luck.

Did you check the gap of the plugs before you installed them? Even factory set plugs need to be verified. Simply dropping them could affect the gap. Stranger things have happened...so you never know. Maybe one was plug had an incorrect gap (too small) and the ECU is compensating the incomplete fuel burn by retarding the timing. I'm just thinking out loud here. Good luck.

I see over 100 people have viewed this post and nobody has responded. Is that because everyone thinks it was generated by a spam-bot? I keep picturing the Tron cycles when I read the 30-50 mph 90 degree turns...

I work in Tysons and took my car to the Toyota in Tysons (Koons) for the routine service. It's been years since my 10k service, but I believe it was less than $100 there. I could never justify driving all the way out to Chantilly - especially at 3x the cost. Just take a copy of the 10k mile service items in for them to confirm they will perform them (if you're worried). Good luck.

Try the "Buy and Sell" forum here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=17

Does your other key fob start the car?

I purchased my 07 in November of 06 as well, and my battery still cranks good too. I usually start to pay attention in cold weather after about 4 years for hints of impending failure. Rafiki - you don't have a maintenance free battery?

It doesn't really make that much of an impact to every-day driving - unless you drive hard. The Engine Management System (knock sensor) will detect pre-ignition (detonation) under load and simply !Removed! the timing. This does equate to less than optimal power and torque from your engine. It could be argued that the 250 probably needs it more than the 350... But I agree with the previous poster - the price difference is rather minimal over the course of a year. I only have 87, 89, and 93 here in Washington DC too and have defaulted to 93 for my 250.

You're right, the magical "power mode" button does not add 102 HP. I believe your salesman was invoking the "say anything to close a sale" technique. In my oppinion the button simply makes the accelerator more sensitive (among other things like higher shift points, etc). I would say drive the 250 and see if it meets your needs. If it does, great. If it doesn't, then hold out for a 350. It sounds like you've already made up your mind as to what you want. Don't settle for something you don't. If you've got some time to kill, go to the Lexus dealer and test drive a new 350. That will give you something to compare to the used 250's. Good luck.

The right car for anyone is the car they really like. It sounds like you really like the S4, so congrats on the new car. Also, great comment about the "suggestion" of the paddle shifts on the IS!

Just curious...why is this thread a "sticky"?

This is the car I wanted 4 years ago! What was the cause of the delay, the transfer case not being able to handle 300 hp?

The theory behind that is that any sediment in the tank/gas will sink to the bottom, and the fuel pickup will start to pick up the crud as the fuel level gets to the bottom. This sediment would eventually clog your fuel filter. Another theory is that the fuel helps keep the electric fuel pump from over heating (in cars where the fuel pump is submerged in the gas tank). I've always driven my vehicles to almost Empty and have not had an issue with clogged fuel filters or a burned out fuel pump. Your mileage may vary though. I believe the fuel quality control programs have improved greatly over the years, as well as improved gas tank materials. But as I'm typing I realize that I'm not sure what our tanks are actualy made out of. Composite/plastic perhaps...anyone know?